You could throw on something along the lines of the Look/Rossi bindings, maybe the Rossi 140 or the Look PX 15. Both of these are really good bindings, and cheaper than something like the Jester. That said, the Jester would probably be my first choice, since they truly are in my opinion one of the best bindings you can buy. Salomon would be my last choice, but the STH 16 might be alright if you like something like that.

It depends on how much switch riding you do. If you spend a lot of time in the park and riding backwards, sure, mount them center. If switch isn't a major part of your time, mount then at +5. Or, if you don't ride switch at all, mount them somewhere even further from center, at say +2.

I would say the 181 for sure. Means more float, more stability, and an all around better ride for your size.

For me, out of those I say the Ignitor. It makes features pop out in the flat light conditions, protects well in the brights, and works a bit better at night. But if you want only one lens and it involves night riding, grab the Sensor Mirror. It works beautifully from the very bottom to the medium bright days.

Yeah different tints make it easier to see in different conditions. If you check out the Electric site, it will tell you all the ones they produce, and what they are good for.

You can grab these in a 140 if you want full coverage. Trim down so the edges are all that is showing on your bases, and install the tip piece. BD has instructions that come with. These are good everything skins in my opinion, since they have the tail attachment for secure fit, and good glue for all conditions.

I have some pictures thrown up of skis on this pack (not good and not on the back, but they get the job done) posted up on the standard Outlaw page. Check them out!

Alright guys, if I'm wrong I am wrong, thanks for correcting me. I don't want anyone to buy the wrong gear. I just remember our tech telling me that last years S3 had Rossi's Rocking Chair Effect, which basically is early rise tip and tail rocker if I am not mistaken. They still have that, still have the traditional camber, have larger dimensions and a different graphic. That is all I was saying.

Not too sure K2 actually reads this, and I think that they might have gotten complaints in the opposite direction last year, about it being to graphic. You can always send them an email, they like getting feedback as far as I can tell.

http://k2skis.com/support/contact

Definitely would suggest going up instead of down, since it is always nice to have to float and stability from the length. As for the Coomback or Wayback, it depends on what you want. If you ski a ton of powder, go Coomback. Anything else, Wayback might be better for the up.

The 159 should be alright for her. It will feel the same as the skis she is used to, and make a really good all-mountain rig for her.

These ones will work, for sure. Nothing wrong with G3 skins. That said, I seem to like Black Diamond gear better, especially the tailclip-less Standard skin from them. Works nice for twintips.

These ones will work, for sure. Nothing wrong with G3 skins. That said, I seem to like Black Diamond gear better, especially the tailclip-less Standard skin from them. Works nice for twintips.

I do it in my ObSETheds from K2 all the time, not really a big deal. I don't feel like the tail rocker makes my traction area shorter at all, since the waist will still sink in the skin-track a bit, and that means the tail is touching snow.

Pull the top of the goggle up while holding the bottom steady. The lens should separate from the body. This is the hardest part, so if straight pulling doesn't work for you, try hooking your nails under the front side of the top of the goggle, and pry. Then remove from the bottom. It is held in by some hooks, feels like it won't come out sometimes, but it will. Putting in, just snap into the bottom, and pull the top over the lens and push down.

It looks pretty red on their website. Not the reddest red, but more red than orange, at least to my eyes.

There really is no way to cut out the glare of sunny days while still transmitting enough light for night skiing. Polarized is an option though, since it does help with glare. The HI Yellow is by far my favourite Oakley lens, since it is awesome for everything up to medium bright days. After that it starts getting hard on the eyes. You just have to think, what is more important to you, that you do more, night or sun?

You can get it here as well, to be safe. Here is the link:

http://www.backcountry.com/outdoorgear/Smith-Universal-Helmet-Helper/SMI0138M.html

It fits, but barely on my large Bad Lieutenant. You can get a goggle extension for it as well, which makes it a lot easier. And if you were wondering, they fit go against the helmet as well, no gaps.

They won't match up. Take them to a shop that can fill the old holes and has a jog to mount the Griffons.

No way, chicks can for sure rock this helmet. Just measure your head and pick one from the sizing chart that matches up.

I would say +5 from the trad mount. That gives you more in the tip to stop tip dip, and still will be switch rideable in pow and on the groomed.

As far as I can tell this is the only Oakley OTG. Smith makes some OTG frames as well, and I find that they look a bit better than these.

Check out the Look PX 15. Great hold, and only a fraction of the price of the Jester with 15 DIN instead of 16.

The closest fit to the Mace is probably the O-Frame actually. Closest to that is the A-Frame. Personally, if you are willing to pay for it, the Crowbar is a way better goggle, for optics, peripherals, helmet-compatibility, and fit.

That is the brake size, so if you have a ski that is less than 90mm at the waist, get the 90mm. If it is bigger than 90mm, get the 110mm.

Pretty sure BD discontinued this glove.

For full coverage take the widest measurement of you ski, usually the tip, and buy the closest to that that you can. Then trim.

The 177 would not be a huge difference, and you will probably progress to a longer length fairly soon, if you are moving to Colorado. For now, this will get you through quite well as a quiver of one rig, but next season or maybe the season after you will be looking at longer planks, almost guaranteed.

It compresses quite a bit with the straps. Also, the pack really isn't huge or anything, it's only 30L, and it comes a lot from the length, not the height off your back.

Sensor Mirror is what I would tell you to get. It is versatile enough to use at night, in flat light, whiteout, overcast, and still won't hurt your eyes during the brighter days.

Yes, as far as I know, and from what I can tell, the Crowbar frame has not changed sizes for the lenses.

Go 179 dude, you can handle it.

Yes, they will. The outriggers on the sides make them fit evenly with any helmet, including the snow x ones.

No, it does not.

I am pretty sure last season's waist was only at a 90mm, and this season is up to the 98mm. Other than that width increase and the graphic change, they are about the same.

You are at the point were you could go these or up. If you went up you would have to look at most likely wider dimensions and such, more of a big-mountain pow rig. These are going to be alright for you for almost anything, since you are not that heavy of a guy. Plus they will be nice and manageable for all-mountain duty.

You are correct, since the teeth help in skinning and the like. I think Backcountry was just trying to get a picture more to show what it is than to show the proper orientation of the baskets.

Plutonite is what Oakley calls the material that they make the lenses out of. Not the colour. For a low light lens, I recommend the HI Yellow, it works good from overcast to whiteout to flat light to night riding.

Pretty wide. I would say wider than the A-Frame and even the Crowbars, but definitely not the widest on the market.

The glue will be all you need. They are designed more around twin tips, since attachments tend to slide off on them. Plus they are easier to get on and off, since you only stick on, no tail clips.

It depends what this setups use is for. If you Fritschi set is a more long distance, multi-day tour set up than I would say Dukes. That gives you a heavier setup that you can mount on bigger planks, so that you have more of a sidecountry, day-tour setup for charging hard and the likes.

The Baron's add quite a bit of weight if you are only using them for only 3 times a year. If you want the function these are probably the best since they are most designed towards resort with the touring still waiting for whenever you want. If you can't justify it you should go for the Griffons, which are the same bindings without the touring capability, and weighs less.

The blue on the frame? It's a fairly bright, light blue, like a cyan.

I find that it mostly dials down to personal preference, since it almost always doesn't matter. I prefer a-frame carry usually, since it puts the tails on either side of my legs and is a bit more balanced on the pack.

It's just a ski, so the stomping part is up to you. But that said, the stiffer flex makes it easier to stay up on them if you land a bit backseat, so perfect landings are not a requirement.

You should always mount a symmetrical ski at core center. They will feel really awkward if elsewhere, and way harder to ski, even in the pow.

That is a bit of a tough call between the Dukes and the Fritschi. The Freerides are better for actually AT, mostly since they weigh less than the Duke. They are less good for slackcountry/lazy touring, since you most likely (for me anyway) are charging harder in those situations, so you want a more confidence inspiring bindings on the down, which is were the Dukes excel. Personally I would put the Dukes on these, since it is mainly a slackcountry deal from what I gather. But since your question is if the Freerides will drive these, the answer is yes, they will. Just keep on top of them.

This model doesn't have headphones built in, but this model of the same helmet does:

http://www.backcountry.com/outdoorgear/SMI0494/Smith-Holt-Skullcandy-Audio-Helmet.html

Pretty much. It is designed to snap into a Bern to stay put. No other helmet will work for that.

Nope, solid strap.

You can find the polarized version here:

http://www.backcountry.com/outdoorgear/Oakley-Splice-Goggle-Polarized/OAK2363M.html

And yes, you are correct, they come in the VR28 and H.I. Amber.

You basically have 2 options that I know of. You can pull your goggles down to your chin/neck area and keep your helmet on normally. I find this the worst of the 2, since heat is funneled up your jacket right to this location. The second option is to undo your chin strap, and slide your goggles and helmet up your head so that it is barely on, and your goggles are on your forehead. If you have a sweaty forehead, this is a bad option, but for me it's the best way.

Yeah it is cheaper to buy them separately. Don't know how bc.com got the total of these 2 as $440.. cause it adds up to like $280 when they aren't on sale, and both are on sale making it $230. I would buy separate dude.

It should fit your 15 inch Macbook Pro.

The 100oz. will fit. Personally with a already fairly small pack, I would get the 70oz. so that you have more room in it, and it weighs less. If neither concerns you, go for the 100oz., because it's always nice to be the only one left with water.

Ignitor is more of a medium to high light day lens, and Sensor is a low, flat to medium lens. I would rather have a lens that is good for the bad days, and not as good on the good days instead of something that is useless on the bad days, so I would recommend the Sensor.

I think it might just be the lighting that was used in the picture. As far as I have seen elsewhere, it is a darker shade of brown than this shown. Check evogear, they usually have really good photos of colour and the like.

It all depends on how far away the person is and the lighting conditions/angle. They don't look like they totally block out from the other side, but in the right light conditions they be close enough to not make out where you are looking.

Most goggles should stay put, especially the ones with the rubber strip in the strap. But I think that POC designed these more for the newschool crowd, that likes the goggle strap under the helmet.

If he loves powder, then these are great. They will probably not be what he is used to in the bumps, but they will manage alright. Powder, whether in trees or bowls, is gonna be where these are best suited for, so if that's his deal, they will be awesome.

Personally, I ski bare legged under my Helly insulated pants, and that is all the way down to where the lifts don't roll, and only a lightweight base in the backcountry. So if you like being really warm, or ski in super cold, like -40C or below, then these will be fine. If not, I would drop that mid-layer. That is my preference though, others may be different.

I would get the non-custom Nylon STS so that you can make them your own length, and not have to worry about what size you should get. And the 125 should probably give you enough coverage all over.

You can look around at the different cheaper goggles, and just kind of look at them. They need a fairly flat top to the frame to fit with the contour of the helmet, but that's about the most major thing that you can look for. Best way is to test. That said, a good budget goggle that fits the Omen is the Oakley O-Frame.

If you rip hard, you should probably go for the Jester. If you run your bindings at the 10-12 range, then you should for sure get the Jester, since you don't want to keep them that close to the top.

You can't put your goggles up, unless you have a super stretchy or long goggle strap. The brim is too big to allow that. One way around that is to unhook your chin strap and push your goggles onto your forehead, which is what I do. Another route to go is bring your goggles down around your chin area, but I find this harder to pull off and get back on. The Mace does fit in this, with minimal-no gap at all.

Go 170 if you want more of an everything ski. If you ski aggressively and want something pretty much pow only, you might be able to grab the 178.

Yeah man for sure. There is quite a big lip from the lens to the front edge of the goggle, but I'll post another more side-view pic for you.

It is hard to say, since Dalbello doesn't actually post a rating with their boots, but they come with a medium and a stiff tongue. Swap them around for park or all-mountain riding. The stiff is probably around a 120-130 area, maybe more, and the medium is at the 100-110 range.

The Crowbars from Oakley are super sick with these, and basically any Smith will work, best probably being the I/O.

Dude they fit so nice. The tops of the I/O are nice and flat to fit perfect with it. You probably will need to extend the strap out most of the way, but it fits. Worst part is the clip at the back of the goggles, which interferes with the goggle attachment a bit on the G10.

Dude they fit so nice. The tops of the I/O are nice and flat to fit perfect with it. You probably will need to extend the strap out most of the way, but it fits. Worst part is the clip at the back of the goggles, which interferes with the goggle attachment a bit on the G10.

It isn't going to be as extreme as football pads, but you will most likely not forget you are wearing it. They did a pretty good job on this one, according to some friends, and it isn't super obtrusive, but yeah, you will realize you have it on.

Check out what I told you for the Konflicts. It can apply to these as well if you like this boot better, since all Full Tilts are fully customizable.