Pull the top of the goggle up while holding the bottom steady. The lens should separate from the body. This is the hardest part, so if straight pulling doesn't work for you, try hooking your nails under the front side of the top of the goggle, and pry. Then remove from the bottom. It is held in by some hooks, feels like it won't come out sometimes, but it will. Putting in, just snap into the bottom, and pull the top over the lens and push down.

It looks pretty red on their website. Not the reddest red, but more red than orange, at least to my eyes.

There really is no way to cut out the glare of sunny days while still transmitting enough light for night skiing. Polarized is an option though, since it does help with glare. The HI Yellow is by far my favourite Oakley lens, since it is awesome for everything up to medium bright days. After that it starts getting hard on the eyes. You just have to think, what is more important to you, that you do more, night or sun?

You can get it here as well, to be safe. Here is the link:

http://www.backcountry.com/outdoorgear/Smith-Universal-Helmet-Helper/SMI0138M.html

It fits, but barely on my large Bad Lieutenant. You can get a goggle extension for it as well, which makes it a lot easier. And if you were wondering, they fit go against the helmet as well, no gaps.

They won't match up. Take them to a shop that can fill the old holes and has a jog to mount the Griffons.

No way, chicks can for sure rock this helmet. Just measure your head and pick one from the sizing chart that matches up.

I would say +5 from the trad mount. That gives you more in the tip to stop tip dip, and still will be switch rideable in pow and on the groomed.

As far as I can tell this is the only Oakley OTG. Smith makes some OTG frames as well, and I find that they look a bit better than these.

Check out the Look PX 15. Great hold, and only a fraction of the price of the Jester with 15 DIN instead of 16.

The closest fit to the Mace is probably the O-Frame actually. Closest to that is the A-Frame. Personally, if you are willing to pay for it, the Crowbar is a way better goggle, for optics, peripherals, helmet-compatibility, and fit.

That is the brake size, so if you have a ski that is less than 90mm at the waist, get the 90mm. If it is bigger than 90mm, get the 110mm.

Pretty sure BD discontinued this glove.

For full coverage take the widest measurement of you ski, usually the tip, and buy the closest to that that you can. Then trim.

The 177 would not be a huge difference, and you will probably progress to a longer length fairly soon, if you are moving to Colorado. For now, this will get you through quite well as a quiver of one rig, but next season or maybe the season after you will be looking at longer planks, almost guaranteed.

It compresses quite a bit with the straps. Also, the pack really isn't huge or anything, it's only 30L, and it comes a lot from the length, not the height off your back.

Sensor Mirror is what I would tell you to get. It is versatile enough to use at night, in flat light, whiteout, overcast, and still won't hurt your eyes during the brighter days.

Yes, as far as I know, and from what I can tell, the Crowbar frame has not changed sizes for the lenses.

Go 179 dude, you can handle it.

Yes, they will. The outriggers on the sides make them fit evenly with any helmet, including the snow x ones.

No, it does not.

I am pretty sure last season's waist was only at a 90mm, and this season is up to the 98mm. Other than that width increase and the graphic change, they are about the same.

You are at the point were you could go these or up. If you went up you would have to look at most likely wider dimensions and such, more of a big-mountain pow rig. These are going to be alright for you for almost anything, since you are not that heavy of a guy. Plus they will be nice and manageable for all-mountain duty.

You are correct, since the teeth help in skinning and the like. I think Backcountry was just trying to get a picture more to show what it is than to show the proper orientation of the baskets.

Plutonite is what Oakley calls the material that they make the lenses out of. Not the colour. For a low light lens, I recommend the HI Yellow, it works good from overcast to whiteout to flat light to night riding.

Pretty wide. I would say wider than the A-Frame and even the Crowbars, but definitely not the widest on the market.

The glue will be all you need. They are designed more around twin tips, since attachments tend to slide off on them. Plus they are easier to get on and off, since you only stick on, no tail clips.

It depends what this setups use is for. If you Fritschi set is a more long distance, multi-day tour set up than I would say Dukes. That gives you a heavier setup that you can mount on bigger planks, so that you have more of a sidecountry, day-tour setup for charging hard and the likes.

The Baron's add quite a bit of weight if you are only using them for only 3 times a year. If you want the function these are probably the best since they are most designed towards resort with the touring still waiting for whenever you want. If you can't justify it you should go for the Griffons, which are the same bindings without the touring capability, and weighs less.

The blue on the frame? It's a fairly bright, light blue, like a cyan.

I find that it mostly dials down to personal preference, since it almost always doesn't matter. I prefer a-frame carry usually, since it puts the tails on either side of my legs and is a bit more balanced on the pack.

It's just a ski, so the stomping part is up to you. But that said, the stiffer flex makes it easier to stay up on them if you land a bit backseat, so perfect landings are not a requirement.

You should always mount a symmetrical ski at core center. They will feel really awkward if elsewhere, and way harder to ski, even in the pow.

That is a bit of a tough call between the Dukes and the Fritschi. The Freerides are better for actually AT, mostly since they weigh less than the Duke. They are less good for slackcountry/lazy touring, since you most likely (for me anyway) are charging harder in those situations, so you want a more confidence inspiring bindings on the down, which is were the Dukes excel. Personally I would put the Dukes on these, since it is mainly a slackcountry deal from what I gather. But since your question is if the Freerides will drive these, the answer is yes, they will. Just keep on top of them.

This model doesn't have headphones built in, but this model of the same helmet does:

http://www.backcountry.com/outdoorgear/SMI0494/Smith-Holt-Skullcandy-Audio-Helmet.html

Pretty much. It is designed to snap into a Bern to stay put. No other helmet will work for that.

Nope, solid strap.

You can find the polarized version here:

http://www.backcountry.com/outdoorgear/Oakley-Splice-Goggle-Polarized/OAK2363M.html

And yes, you are correct, they come in the VR28 and H.I. Amber.

You basically have 2 options that I know of. You can pull your goggles down to your chin/neck area and keep your helmet on normally. I find this the worst of the 2, since heat is funneled up your jacket right to this location. The second option is to undo your chin strap, and slide your goggles and helmet up your head so that it is barely on, and your goggles are on your forehead. If you have a sweaty forehead, this is a bad option, but for me it's the best way.

Yeah it is cheaper to buy them separately. Don't know how bc.com got the total of these 2 as $440.. cause it adds up to like $280 when they aren't on sale, and both are on sale making it $230. I would buy separate dude.

It should fit your 15 inch Macbook Pro.

The 100oz. will fit. Personally with a already fairly small pack, I would get the 70oz. so that you have more room in it, and it weighs less. If neither concerns you, go for the 100oz., because it's always nice to be the only one left with water.

Ignitor is more of a medium to high light day lens, and Sensor is a low, flat to medium lens. I would rather have a lens that is good for the bad days, and not as good on the good days instead of something that is useless on the bad days, so I would recommend the Sensor.

I think it might just be the lighting that was used in the picture. As far as I have seen elsewhere, it is a darker shade of brown than this shown. Check evogear, they usually have really good photos of colour and the like.

It all depends on how far away the person is and the lighting conditions/angle. They don't look like they totally block out from the other side, but in the right light conditions they be close enough to not make out where you are looking.

Most goggles should stay put, especially the ones with the rubber strip in the strap. But I think that POC designed these more for the newschool crowd, that likes the goggle strap under the helmet.

If he loves powder, then these are great. They will probably not be what he is used to in the bumps, but they will manage alright. Powder, whether in trees or bowls, is gonna be where these are best suited for, so if that's his deal, they will be awesome.

Personally, I ski bare legged under my Helly insulated pants, and that is all the way down to where the lifts don't roll, and only a lightweight base in the backcountry. So if you like being really warm, or ski in super cold, like -40C or below, then these will be fine. If not, I would drop that mid-layer. That is my preference though, others may be different.

I would get the non-custom Nylon STS so that you can make them your own length, and not have to worry about what size you should get. And the 125 should probably give you enough coverage all over.

You can look around at the different cheaper goggles, and just kind of look at them. They need a fairly flat top to the frame to fit with the contour of the helmet, but that's about the most major thing that you can look for. Best way is to test. That said, a good budget goggle that fits the Omen is the Oakley O-Frame.

If you rip hard, you should probably go for the Jester. If you run your bindings at the 10-12 range, then you should for sure get the Jester, since you don't want to keep them that close to the top.

You can't put your goggles up, unless you have a super stretchy or long goggle strap. The brim is too big to allow that. One way around that is to unhook your chin strap and push your goggles onto your forehead, which is what I do. Another route to go is bring your goggles down around your chin area, but I find this harder to pull off and get back on. The Mace does fit in this, with minimal-no gap at all.

Go 170 if you want more of an everything ski. If you ski aggressively and want something pretty much pow only, you might be able to grab the 178.

Yeah man for sure. There is quite a big lip from the lens to the front edge of the goggle, but I'll post another more side-view pic for you.

It is hard to say, since Dalbello doesn't actually post a rating with their boots, but they come with a medium and a stiff tongue. Swap them around for park or all-mountain riding. The stiff is probably around a 120-130 area, maybe more, and the medium is at the 100-110 range.

The Crowbars from Oakley are super sick with these, and basically any Smith will work, best probably being the I/O.

Dude they fit so nice. The tops of the I/O are nice and flat to fit perfect with it. You probably will need to extend the strap out most of the way, but it fits. Worst part is the clip at the back of the goggles, which interferes with the goggle attachment a bit on the G10.

Dude they fit so nice. The tops of the I/O are nice and flat to fit perfect with it. You probably will need to extend the strap out most of the way, but it fits. Worst part is the clip at the back of the goggles, which interferes with the goggle attachment a bit on the G10.

It isn't going to be as extreme as football pads, but you will most likely not forget you are wearing it. They did a pretty good job on this one, according to some friends, and it isn't super obtrusive, but yeah, you will realize you have it on.

Check out what I told you for the Konflicts. It can apply to these as well if you like this boot better, since all Full Tilts are fully customizable.

I would say that since more time is out of the park, get the Konflict. If it was inverse, as in 75% park/25% all-mountain, then the Hot Dogger. Also, I would recommend getting a softer tongue for park, and possibly a shock absorbing footboard. That way you can have them with your pack in the chalet, and slay all over the hill in the morning, then switch out the tongue, which is super easy, and go throw down in the park. Or find a tongue that is a happy medium so you can do both if you want.

For slash turns, I like to have a little less in front of my boot, so that there is less out there to catch in the snow. I almost always mount an all-mountain/big-mountain ski at +2, because they still charge hard, are not too far off trad, and don't catch at the tip when sideways as much. You are more centered on the ski also, so ripping pow and pillows in a good body position is easier.

The early rise makes it ski a bit shorter, but not really that much. The radius is bigger on these than the Chiefs, so you lose some "turny-ness" from that and the added 10mm in the waist. Either length will give you more float too. You can stick with the 174 if you want, but I think that for bigger lines and to progress, the 181 will be a better length for you. The Fritshi bindings are alright, and will work probably better than the Dukes at everything but the down, but since you aren't worrying about jumps/drops, then I would tell you that they will be fine for you, since more blowouts you hear on them are from drops. Lastly, I can't comment on the K2 skins, because I always use BD ones, and yes, they work on the new K2 stuff.

It has a 98mm last, but if you feel like squishing in go for it. The liner will pack out or heat mold to your foot eventually.

Amazon has the shipping weight posted at 11.2 ounces, so somewhere around 10+ ounces after the packaging.

I would say that the persimmon lens is probably your best bet, for an all-purpose lens. It has a high contrast for low or flat light, and still blocks enough for medium bright days. The Blue Spectra does cut glare, but if the sun is bright enough to glare bad enough for that to be necessary in a low light level lens, just switch out to the dark one you already have.

No, it shouldn't harm the bottle, since it is just a steel one. Make sure you don't fill it all the way, since it will expand, and that could possible damage, a.k.a. push out the shape the bottle.

In all the time I have been glued to this site, it has never had a compare feature. I feel that it would be super helpful though, so if they did have it, they should bring it back.

You are probably a 169cm ski person. That length will have decent enough float for you, and still be a manageable all-mountain deal. If you want the full powder ski, and want to be aggressive on your skis, you probably could get away with the 179 even, but the 169 really should be good enough. They are slightly longer than posted. As for Rossi vs. ObSETHed, I pick ObSETHed, since it rips hard in the big stuff, and is still easy enough to take anywhere. The S7 kills deeps, but lacks some all-mountain performance comparatively.

Just shy of 5 pounds per boot. Might be off a couple of grams, I weighed the 27.5, which is my foot size.

Just the Electric EG2

I would say that these would be better than a softer boot, although I like soft if I ever get caught in bumps. The stiffer boot will help you out driving the skis in the glades, bowls and groomers though, and basically are a step towards improvement. Might feel some punishment in them bumps though.

They do ship internationally, but some companies do not. Add to your cart, and it will tell you if it ships to your country or not.

You can add this to your cart, and when you go to the cart, it will have a option to get a shipping estimate for you. Just type in your postal/ZIP, and it will give you an idea of what it will cost. It will also let you know if it can ship to you or not.