How To Keep Your Toes Warm Ice Climbing

Scarpa Phantom 6000 Mountaineering Boot - Men's

December 12, 2011

Two things...use these boots, the Scarpa Phantom 6,000's and put in a pair of toe warmers. In this short video I demonstrate.

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How To Pack Your Pack

The North Face Venture Jacket - Men's

October 3, 2011

Backcountry.com athlete Stephen Koch shows you how to pack your pack and what he takes for a day of ice climbing!

For more TIPS and TRICKS and GEAR PICKS from the PRO visit...

www.stephenkoch.com/gear-i-use/

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How To Pack Your Pack For Climbing

Black Diamond Camalot C4 Package #0.5 - 3

October 3, 2011

Backcountry.com athlete Stephen Koch shows you how to pack your pack and what he takes for a day of ice climbing!

For more TIPS and TRICKS and GEAR PICKS from the PRO visit...www.stephenkoch.com/gear-i-use/

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How To Pack Your Pack

The North Face Venture Jacket - Women's

October 3, 2011


Backcountry.com athlete Stephen Koch shows you how to pack your pack and what he takes for a day of ice climbing!

For more TIPS and TRICKS and GEAR PICKS from the PRO visit...www.stephenkoch.com/gear-i-use/

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What to Take Ice Climbing

The North Face Base Camp Duffel Bag - 2560-4395cu in

October 3, 2011

Backcountry.com athlete Stephen Koch shows you what he takes ice climbing. The best products, including some tips and tricks learned over 20 years of climbing in the mountains around the world! Enjoy!

http://stephenkoch.com/gear-i-use/

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What is in Stephen Koch's Pack for a Day of Ice Climbing

Petzl ACCU Core Rechargable Headlamp Battery

October 3, 2011

Petzl Core is one of the many things...check it out!

www.stephenkoch.com

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What's In My Pack for Ice Climbing by Stephen Koch

Petzl Dragonfly 8.2mm Half Rope

October 3, 2011

All the stuff I bring for a day of climbing...explained. Enjoy!

www.stephenkoch.com

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How to Place an Ice Screw with Stephen Koch

Grivel Speedy Ice Screw

October 3, 2011

Backcountry.com athlete Stephen Koch demonstrates how to place an ice screw while ice climbing.

www.stephenkoch.com

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How to Place an Ice Screw with Stephen Koch

CAMP USA Radion Ice Screw DO NOT USE

October 3, 2011

Backcountry.com athlete Stephen Koch demonstrates how to place an ice screw while ice climbing.

www.stephenkoch.com

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How to Place an Ice Screw with Stephen Koch

Grivel Helix Ice Screw

October 3, 2011

Backcountry.com athlete Stephen Koch demonstrates how to place an ice screw while ice climbing.

www.stephenkoch.com

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How to Place an Ice Screw with Stephen Koch

Grivel 360 Ice Screws

October 3, 2011

Backcountry.com athlete Stephen Koch demonstrates how to place an ice screw while ice climbing.

www.stephenkoch.com

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How to Place an Ice Screw with Stephen Koch

Black Diamond Turbo Ice Screws

October 3, 2011

Backcountry.com athlete Stephen Koch demonstrates how to place an ice screw while ice climbing.

www.stephenkoch.com

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How to Place an Ice Screw with Stephen Koch

Black Diamond Express Ice Screws

October 3, 2011

Backcountry.com athlete Stephen Koch demonstrates how to place an ice screw while ice climbing.

www.stephenkoch.com

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How to Place an Ice Screw with Stephen Koch

Petzl Laser Sonic Ice Screw

October 3, 2011

Backcountry.com athlete Stephen Koch demonstrates how to place an ice screw while ice climbing.

www.stephenkoch.com

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How To Place an Ice Screw Video by Stephen Koch

Cassin Turbo Stream Ice Screw

October 3, 2011

Backcountry.com athlete Stephen Koch demonstrates how to place an ice screw while ice climbing.

www.stephenkoch.com

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Winter Ascent of Andromeda Strain

Petzl Dartwin Crampon

October 3, 2011

Canadian Rockies Classic Alpine Climb that I free climbed with my buddy Jack Jefferies a few years ago. So much fun!

www.stephenkoch.com

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Andromeda Strain Winter Ascent

Petzl Tibloc Ultralight Emergency Ascender

October 3, 2011

Use the Tibloc as an emergency ascender and for simul-climbing, to protect the leader from a second falling. Chance of having the sheath of the rope torn by the teeth. Way to minimize this is to file down the first few (short) teeth on the rounded bottom of the Tibloc. Has worked for me for years!

www.stephenkoch.com

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Winter Ascent of Andromeda Strain

Petzl Meteor III + Climbing Helmet

October 3, 2011

Canadian Rockies Classic Alpine Climb I did a few years ago with Jack Jefferies. We were able to free it too, which was sweet!

WWW.STEPHENKOCH.COM for more...

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Winter Ascent of Andromeda Strain

Petzl Reverso 3 Belay and Rappel Device

October 3, 2011

Canadian Rockies Classic!

Petzl Reverso's being used with great success!

For more: www.stephenkoch.com

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Winter Ascent of Andromeda Strain

Patagonia DAS Insulated Parka - Men's

October 3, 2011

Free ascent too. Stoked to have Warm Jacket!!!

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On The Classic Dubois Gulley Ice Climb

On The Classic Dubois Gulley Ice Climb

Petzl Dart Crampon

December 12, 2011

Above Lake Louise in the southern Wind River Mountains. A special place with big horn sheep seen on most outings.

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High In The Tetons

High In The Tetons

Marmot Alpinist Tent: 2-Person 4-Season

December 12, 2011

Way Up Avalanche Canyon, Grand Teton National Park

Photo Copyright: Stephen Koch 2011

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Breaking Trail Up Virgin Ground In Scarpa Rush's

Breaking Trail Up Virgin Ground In Scarpa Rush's

Scarpa Rush Alpine Touring Boot - Men's

December 12, 2011

Stphen Koch breaking trail up a new route in the Wrangle-St. Alias range of AK. Spring 2010.

Photo Copyright: Stephen Koch Collection

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Ascending Andromeda Strain in Winter

Ascending Andromeda Strain in Winter

Petzl Dartwin Crampon

October 3, 2011

Great crampons for winter mixed climbing and mountaineering!

Photo Copyright: Stephen Koch Collection

www.stephenkoch.com

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Being Belayed With a Reverso on Classic Andromeda Strain

Being Belayed With a Reverso on Classic Andromeda Strain

Petzl Reverso 3 Belay and Rappel Device

October 3, 2011

Canadian Rockies, Winter Free Ascent.

The Reverso 3 Rocks! To be able to belay the second hands free off the anchor is the way to go! Just make sure your anchors are bomber! Take a pee, eat, drink, shoot photos...do it all while keeping the second safe!

Photo Copyright: Stephen Koch Collection

For more on this climb: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O6pTYH_CNq8

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DAS On Andromeda Strain in Canadian Rockies

DAS On Andromeda Strain in Canadian Rockies

Patagonia DAS Insulated Parka - Men's

October 3, 2011

Classic DAS Parka on the classic Canadian test-piece, Andromeda Strain, during a free winter ascent.

Photo Copyright: Stephen Koch

For more on this climb: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O6pTYH_CNq8

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e+LITE in action on Andromeda Strain

e+LITE in action on Andromeda Strain

Petzl e+LITE Emergency Headlamp

October 3, 2011

I always carry the e+LITE on my harness as an additional emergency light, along with a Petzl Tibloc, couple of prussic's and a knife.

Photo Copyright: Stephen Koch Collection

For more on this climb: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FQEXGYgrs3A&NR=1

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Tibloc on my harness on Andromeda Strain

Tibloc on my harness on Andromeda Strain

Petzl Tibloc Ultralight Emergency Ascender

October 3, 2011

I always carry a Tibloc on my harness, along with a couple of prussic's, knife and in winter v-threader (made out of a coat hanger!). Can use for simul-climbing by clipping to a piece of gear with a large diameter locking carabiner with the rope running through the biner. Use two if you are climbing on double ropes. This way if the second falls they fall on the piece of gear and don't pull the leader off! WARNING!!! Cannot give slack to the second with this system, so they better have their poop together!

Photo Copyright: Stephen Koch Collection

WWW.STEPHENKOCH.COM

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On Andromeda Strain - A Canadian Classic!

On Andromeda Strain - A Canadian Classic!

Petzl Meteor III + Climbing Helmet

October 3, 2011

Love to save weight...that is why I use the Meteor III Helmet by Petzl! Just don't sit on it sideways!!!

Photo Copyright: Stephen Koch Collection

WWW.STEPHENKOCH.COM

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The Classic Water Bottle Parka in Winter on Andromeda Strain Free Ascent

The Classic Water Bottle Parka in Winter on Andromeda Strain Free Ascent

Outdoor Research Water Bottle Parka

October 3, 2011

Sweet product and sweet classic climb!

Photo Copyright: Stephen Koch Collection

For more: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FQEXGYgrs3A&NR=1

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On The Classic Andromeda Strain in Winter

On The Classic Andromeda Strain in Winter

Petzl Hirundos Harness - Men's

October 3, 2011

I love this harness for alpine climbing! Light and simple with enough loops and comfort.
Photo Copyright: Stephen Koch Collection
For more: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FQEXGYgrs3A&NR=1

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On Classic Andromeda Strain in Winter

On Classic Andromeda Strain in Winter

Black Diamond Neutrino Carabiner

October 3, 2011

Photo Copyright: Stephen Koch Collection. For more on this climb: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O6pTYH_CNq8

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Spirit in use on Winter Ascent of Classic Andromeda Strain

Spirit in use on Winter Ascent of Classic Andromeda Strain

Petzl Spirit Carabiner

October 3, 2011

Photo Copyright: Stephen Koch Collection

For more on this climb: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O6pTYH_CNq8

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Slings in action on Andromeda Strain Winter Ascent

Slings in action on Andromeda Strain Winter Ascent

Petzl Fin'Anneau Sling

October 3, 2011

Photo copyright: Stephen Koch Collection

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On the Classic Andromeda Strain

On the Classic Andromeda Strain

Black Diamond Camalot C4's

October 3, 2011

Here I am leading a thin and exciting section of the classic Andromeda Strain in the Canadian Rockies during a free winter ascent with Jack Jefferies. For more photos/video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O6pTYH_CNq8

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On the Classic Andromeda Strain

On the Classic Andromeda Strain

Petzl Dragonfly 8.2mm Half Rope

October 3, 2011

Photo Copyright: Stephen Koch Collection

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On the top of Mount Andromeda

On the top of Mount Andromeda

Petzl Quark Ice Tool

October 3, 2011

Photo Copyright: Stephen Koch Collection

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Getting the goods!

Getting the goods!

K2 DarkSide Alpine Ski

July 14, 2011

Floating on the Dark Sides on the lightest of powder!

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During a super steep descent in AK

During a super steep descent in AK

Arc'teryx X350a Ice Climbing Harness

July 14, 2011

First Descent in the Wrangle-Saint Elias Range of AK. Nice to have a harness on for a belay on the exposed 60+ degree terrain!

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VZ in action on the steeps of Alaska

VZ in action on the steeps of Alaska

VonZipper Bushwick Goggle

July 14, 2011

During a first descent in the Wrangle-Saint Elias Range in AK!

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Steep Skiing

Steep Skiing

Black Diamond Pure Carbon Ski Pole

July 14, 2011

On a first descent in remote AK!

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GoPro HERO in action

GoPro HERO in action

GoPro HD Helmet HERO

July 14, 2011

During a first descent in the Wrangle-Saint Elias Range, AK.

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On the summit

On the summit

Petzl Elios Climbing Helmet - 2011

July 14, 2011

Helmet off for a few minutes, after the ascent, before the descent!

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22 Designs Bombshell Bindings in action

22 Designs Bombshell Bindings in action

22 Designs Bombshell Telemark Ski Binding

July 14, 2011

On a first ascent/descent in the Wrangle-Saint Elias Mountains!

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Wrangle-Saint Elias Range

Wrangle-Saint Elias Range

Grivel Quantum Tech Ice Tool

July 14, 2011

First ascent and descent using Grivel Tools.

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Look out for the sharks underwater!
Underwater hand holding!
In n out of the water.
Underwater action!
Stephen Koch in Cody, WY
Selena In Action...and not just for women!

Selena In Action...and not just for women!

Petzl Selena Harness - Women's

October 18, 2010

Stephen Koch on Golden Tears near Dubois, WY.

Photo Copyright - John de Neufville / Stephen Koch collection.

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e+LITE...ALWAYS on my harness!

e+LITE...ALWAYS on my harness!

Petzl e+LITE Emergency Headlamp

October 18, 2010

Stephen Koch in action on Golden Tears, near Dubois, WY.

Photo - John de Neufville / Stephen Koch collection

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Stephen Koch doing his morning stretching on Golden Tears

Stephen Koch doing his morning stretching on Golden Tears

Petzl Laser Sonic Ice Screw

October 18, 2010

Near Dubois, WY in the Wind River Range.

Photo Copyright - John de Neufville / Stephen Koch collection.

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Stephen Koch mixed climbing on Golden Tears

Stephen Koch mixed climbing on Golden Tears

Black Diamond Camalot C4 Package #0.5 - 3

October 18, 2010

Near Dubois, WY in the Southern Wind River Range.

Photo Copyright - John de Neufville / Stephen Koch Collection

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Stephen Koch doing his morning stretching on Golden Tears

Stephen Koch doing his morning stretching on Golden Tears

Petzl Meteor III Climbing Helmet

October 18, 2010

Near Dubois, WY in the Southern WInds.

Photo Copyright - John DeNeufville

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Stephen Koch on Golden Tears

Stephen Koch on Golden Tears

Petzl Dartwin Crampon

October 18, 2010

Near Dubois, WY in the Southern Wind River Mountains.

Photo Copyright - John De Neufville/Stephen Koch Collection.

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Sarkens in action on Lake Louise

Sarkens in action on Lake Louise

Petzl Sarken Crampon

October 18, 2010

Outside Dubois, WY in the Southern Wind River Mountains.

Photo Copyright - www.stephenkoch.com

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Hiking on Lake Louise

Hiking on Lake Louise

LEKI Luau Aergon Trekking Poles - Women's

October 18, 2010

In the Southern Wind River Range.

Photo Copyright - www.stephenkoch.com

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Dragonfly by Petzl in action on Golden Tears

Dragonfly by Petzl in action on Golden Tears

Petzl Dragonfly 8.2mm Half Rope

October 18, 2010

Near Dubois, WY

Photo Copyright - www.StephenKoch.com

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Enclosure Parka in Action

Enclosure Parka in Action

Cloudveil Enclosure Insulated Jacket - Men's

October 18, 2010

Golden Tears, Wind River Mountains

Copyright - StephenKoch.com

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The Elios in action on Golden Tears

The Elios in action on Golden Tears

Petzl Elios Climbing Helmet - 2011

October 18, 2010

A beautiful ice climb outside of Dubois, WY in the Southern WInd River Mountains.

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The Quark in action on Golden Tears

The Quark in action on Golden Tears

Petzl Quark IceTool

October 18, 2010

Near Dubois, WY in the Southern Wind River Range...a magical place!

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Mixing it up on Golden Tears

Mixing it up on Golden Tears

Petzl Quark IceTool

October 18, 2010

Above Lake Louise in the Southern Wind River Range outside of Dubois, WY.
Copyright - Stephen Koch

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Stephen Koch wearing the Meteor III Climbing Helmet

BURLY CRAMPONS

Petzl M10 LLF Modular Crampon

Petzl M10 LLF Modular Crampon

Rating for this product: 5 January 9, 2012

If you are looking for a crampon that is solid, will last years, offers duel points and mono points with several ways to vary both, then the Petzl M10's are a fantastic choice. These are ideal crampons for someone who climbs ice, is new to climbing ice and has a boot that will take this crampon. I generally like lighter crampons and use the Petzl Darts and Dartwins. That being said, they do not penetrate the ice as well as the M10's and for a beginner, having the front points penetrate the ice (giving you a "foot to stand on") is vital.

Bottom line: A great crampons for ice climbing!

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FUN, SOLID SPLITBOARD

K2 Snowboards Panoramic Splitboard Kit

K2 Snowboards Panoramic Splitboard Kit

Rating for this product: 4 December 21, 2011

I have a K2 Panoramic Split 168 that I have used a few days so far this lean season. To test it out properly I headed south at Teton Pass for a tour which involves much sidehilling, normally a dread for splitboarders with soft boots, but not this time. The Panoramic held steady on the firm slope due to the torsional stiffness, which I believe K2 has focused on having incorporated into their splits for this very reason. Well, it works. The Spark Boots and Bindings helped as well.

The special skin clips that come with the K2 Split make the transitions that much faster and they are bomber!

The Panoramic is a bit heavier than I would like but that being said, this board is built to last many seasons of backcountry schralping. I have ridden lighter splitboards and they end up breaking after a couple seasons. Strength to weight is always the trade off and when I am on a serious slope with cliffs below, I will take a little extra weight to have the confidence and security of a solid ride underfoot.

The torsional stiffness of the Panoramic made the ride feel a bit less playful than I like for a powder stick. But I can see how that same stiffness could save a ton of energy on a big ascent, possibly even facilitating the window for the summit before having to descend.

Bottom line: a reasonably priced and stout splitboard that will last many seasons of splitboard adventuring.

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TORSIONAL RIGIDITY FOR THE ASCENT!

K2 Snowboards Panoramic Splitboard

K2 Snowboards Panoramic Splitboard

Rating for this product: 4 December 20, 2011

I have a K2 Panoramic Split 168 that I have used a few days so far this lean season. To test it out properly I headed south at Teton Pass for a tour which involves much sidehilling, normally a dread for splitboarders with soft boots, but not this time. The Panoramic held steady on the firm slope due to the torsional stiffness, which I believe K2 has focused on having incorporated into their splits for this very reason. Well, it works. The Spark Boots and Bindings helped as well.

The special skin clips that come with the K2 Split make the transitions that much faster and they are bomber!

The Panoramic is a bit heavier than I would like but that being said, this board is built to last many seasons of backcountry schralping. I have ridden lighter splitboards and they end up breaking after a couple seasons. Strength to weight is always the trade off and when I am on a serious slope with cliffs below, I will take a little extra weight to have the confidence and security of a solid ride underfoot.

The torsional stiffness of the Panoramic made the ride feel a bit less playful than I like for a powder stick. But I can see how that same stiffness could save a ton of energy on a big ascent, possibly even facilitating the window for the summit before having to descend.

Bottom line: a reasonably priced and stout splitboard that will last many seasons of splitboard adventuring.

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GREAT SPLITBOARDING BOOT

Scarpa F1 Boot

Scarpa F1 Boot

Rating for this product: 5 December 18, 2011

The F1's are a great boot for splitboarding. I removed the tongue on the back boot to soften them up. The bellows makes for smooth and comfortable uphill riding and even offers a bit of flex on the way down, which is a benefit to me as a snowboarder. I use Dynafit toe pieces for the up and have been using both Voile Mountain Plates and Burton Race Plates for the riding. The board I am rocking is a Rome Split Proto that is super light and fun.

I love the fact that I can DRIVE MY CAR safely in these boots! It is so nice to get to the trailhead and GO without having to change into boots. I am so stoked to find this boot and get back into hard boot splitboarding. I was over the challenges of splitting with a soft boot setup. Even though the Spark Fuse Soft Splitboard Binding is great it doesn't help much with traversing firm sidehills.

These boots are difficult to get in, to have my heel drop into the pocket, but I imagine this will get easier with time.

I have a fairly wide foot and once I baked the liners I had the room needed for comfort and warmth around the bellows. The cord holding the rubber ball to open and close the tour/ski latch broke the first time I used it. I drilled out the cord and threaded a simple cord through that is holding nicely for the time being.

I also used these boots hiking Glory Bowl on Teton Pass after doing a tour up West Mail Cabin on the West side of the pass. It is a pleasure to have a firm toe to use on the firm and snowy steps heading up to the top of Glory.

Bottom line: I think you will be seeing many more snowboarders using hard boots for splitboarding and backcountry riding in general and the F1's are the best I have found!

For more in depth reviews check out my website - www.stephenkoch.com' (HARD BOOTS VS. SOFT BOOTS FOR SNOWBOARD MOUNTAINEERING –)

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ALWAYS ON MY HARNESS

Petzl Tibloc Ultralight Emergency Ascender

Petzl Tibloc Ultralight Emergency Ascender

Rating for this product: 5 December 17, 2011

I always carry a Tibloc on my harness, along with a couple of prussic's, knife and in winter v-threader (made out of a coat hanger!). Can use for simul-climbing by clipping to a piece of gear with a large diameter locking carabiner with the rope running through the biner. Use two if you are climbing on double ropes. This way if the second falls they fall on the piece of gear and don't pull the leader off! WARNING!!! Cannot give slack to the second with this system, so they better have their poop together!

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IMPECCABLE ICE AND MIXED TOOL

Petzl Nomic Ice Tool

Petzl Nomic Ice Tool

Rating for this product: 5 December 12, 2011

I have used these tools for several seasons now and love them. The new Nomics now have a hammer! Nice work Petzl! These tools climb ice very well. I use tethers to prevent droppage. Leashless is the way to free yourself and to be way more efficient. They also have added a spike at the bottom of the tool for lower angle walking and topping out on climbs. Again, nice work Petzl! When mixed climbing the Nomics excel...whether matching on one tool or gripping up high, these tools love every minute of it and when you reach the ice you are NOT bumming from the "bounce you the fuck out of the ice placement you just made because the tools were engineered solely for rock climbing," which some other mixed tools give. Instead, you are laughing your way to the top of the climb...

Bottom line: A fantastic ice and mixed climbing tool that I take into the mountains with confidence.

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FINALLY! A NICHE IS BEING FILLED!

Deeluxe Spark Snowboard Boot - Men's

Deeluxe Spark Snowboard Boot - Men's

Rating for this product: 4 December 12, 2011

The Spark boot by Deeluxe is what I have been waiting for in a boot since departing from Hard Boots after my attempt to snowboard the north face of Mount Everest in 2003. The security of this boot's grip while walking on firm snow is incredible. I hiked up Mount Glory on Teton Pass last Friday under the full moon with a group of friends. It hasn't snowed in several days and the boot pack was firm and slick with rocks protruding in several places. I have never felt so secure and comfortable on the boot pack as in these boots. The Vibram sole takes sure footedness to another level. I was convinced I was a billy goat for a little while and it had nothing to the products, services and beverages imbibed in and around the Stagecoach Bar before departure.

I am still getting used to the lacing system, which is not super intuitive. There has been no need to kick steps in firm snow yet with the cold snow this time of year, but I will be doing that soon enough. My initial thoughts on the toebox construction is that it could use some beefing up. I may doctor them up with a layer of Aquaseal, which would add some stiffness and protection to the toebox.

They Spark's ride well. I have ridden them a few days and they also tour fine. I am using an older Scarpa liner at the moment until I cook the ones that came with the boots, which will happen soon.

The four stars is for the seemingly flimsy toebox. If after use (I may only Aquaseal one boot) they hold up well and penetrate firm snow well, I will come back and amend the rating. But for now this is a great start to a splitboard/backcountry snowboarding/snowboard mountaineering boot.

Regarding Crampons, I haven't messed with that yet. Soon. I do know the Grivel G10 Wide's look ideal for snowboarding boots. But I am hoping for a great aluminum crampon,for most of the climbing I will be doing in these boots will be on snow.

Bottom line: A niche has been filled with the addition of a "real" Vibram sole. Gain security and confidence on snow, ice, rock and icy parking lots with the Deeluxe Spark Boot. Rides well and is light weight to boot!

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SWEET SKI / SNOWBOARD MOUNTAINEERING BOOT

Scarpa Rush Alpine Touring Boot - Men's

Scarpa Rush Alpine Touring Boot - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 December 12, 2011

I used the Scapra Rush last spring for a two week expedition in Alaska's Wrangle-St. Elias Range. They worked well for both ski mountaineering and snowboard mountaineering. I was doing both and was stoked to be able to use the same boots for each activity.

They are light but still stiff for their weight (just over 6 lbs/pair). If you are looking to shave weight, and are willing to sacrifice a bit of stiffness for a lighter weight boot, then the Rush could be for you. The inventive tongue design helps to make Scarpa's line of ski mountaineering boots exceptionally stiff for their weight. It takes a little patience to figure out how to cleanly open the boot by moving the tongue to the side before getting in or out. But after two or three goes you will have it dialed and stoked on the design for the stiffness it offers.

The boots tour well with lots of cuff movement. For skiing they tighten nicely and once the forward lean lock is engaged you are ready to rip. They were plenty stiff for snowboarding. For skiing they functioned well on all but the iciest terrain. During a time or two while on skis where it was steep and icy, I would have preferred the Scarpa Maestrale's for their additional support. But would not have enjoyed the extra poundage on the way up.

Bottom line: Scarpa Rush are a great boot for ski mountaineering at higher altitude or when you are going for big vertical days and want to shave weight. If you desire the support of a stiff four buckle boot, I would go with the Scarpa Maestrale.

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Petzl Vasak 12-Point Mountaineering Crampon

December 9, 2011

SteveH,

I disagree with you. The Vasak Crampons by Petzl here are completely strong enough for serious ice climbing. Much depends on the boots. With a boot that has a stiff sole / Vibram type sole will work great with these cramons. Trying to climb serious ice (steep) with boots that are not stiff and fairly supportive won't work well NO MATTER WHAT CRAMPON you use.

The key to a secure fit is to fit the crampons well to the boot (no slop) and tighten the straps firmly. This is done, once the proper length is determined, by pulling on the straps and holding them tight by putting pressure on the strap at the point where it rests on the Flexlock binding, then you can thread the strap with the other hand and tighten, then retighten it all again for a secure fit.

I would not recommend climbing hard/steep ice with aluminum crampons.

Hope this clarifies and helps.

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Black Diamond Neve Strap Crampons with ABS

December 9, 2011

Ryan,
I am not aware of any Petzl aluminum crampons. Please advise.
sk

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Petzl Meteor III + Climbing Helmet

November 27, 2011

The Meteor III is an ideal winter alpine climbing helmet. It is light weight and functional. These are the two things I look for in alpine climbing gear. The vents make it light. I do not use a helmet for keeping warm. That is what a balaclava/hat/neck gaitor/down jacket are for. Regarding spindrift and wind, throw a hood over your helmet and you will have no problems. If you have a helmet without a hood the snow will find its way into your system. Never been an issue getting snow in there because if it is snowing heavily I generally have my hood over my helmet. And with this way of using the helmet, all the vents come in very handy! Also great for summer use. Hope this helps.

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GREAT BACKCOUNTRY SKI!

Ski Trab Volare Ski

Ski Trab Volare Ski

Rating for this product: 5 November 21, 2011

The Volare by Ski Trab are LIGHT! I have a pair of the 185's and they ski well in various snow conditions - from crud to powder to chalk, these skis ski like a dream, and my legs are not torched on the descent because of the lightness of the skis on the ascent! The way a backcountry ski should be. Light, wide enough for deep and not too wide to feel awkward when trying to edge on firm snow, either up or down. The taper and mini swallow tail, coupled with the over-sized tip keep the tip up without "early rise" and without reducing the carvability.

Regarding non Trab skins...I notched out one side of the tip on each ski and it holds regular skins just fine. With the tail I notched out the swallow tail to square it up and it takes the BD tail clips just fine.

Bottom Line: A light mid-fat ski that rips all snow conditions with ease. My go to ski for terrain where manual up is required.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Backcountry Access Tracker 2 Avalanche Beacon

October 24, 2011

Zach,

I have used both and prefer the Tracker 2. It is less bulky and improved over Tracker for multi-burial searches. I also like the harness WAY more than the original.

Stephen Koch

Helpful Votes: 2 Yes

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CAMP USA Radion Ice Screw DO NOT USE

October 3, 2011

Two long, three medium and one or two short ones! Use the long when ice is of less quality, short when ice is thin or of great quality and medium other times. Also use a long one for v-threads!

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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AWESOME ICE CLIMBING TOOLS!!!

Petzl Quark Ice Tool

Petzl Quark Ice Tool

Rating for this product: 5 October 3, 2011

I love these tools! I used Quarks on hundreds of routes over the years...vertical ice, alpine ice and mixed routes (new route on Denali Light Traveler and first free ascent of the Moonflower Buttress done with Quarks), snowboard descents and mixed (before the Ergo and Nomics). When mixed climbing I add a "ball" to match onto, just above the rubber grip. I do this by taking duct tape, give er' a couple full raps then unroll 2' of tape and while it is still on the roll, twist the sh#t out of it so it is tightly twisted and stuck to itself, then keep wrapping around and repeat as necessary to get the size "ball or match grip rest" you desire then finish it off with a stickier tape and throw some strips of skateboard deck grip tape on there for ultimate holding power! That, along with the stock grip-rest will have you matching your way to the top, whether mixed terrain, steep ice or traversing on easier ground...

The Quark swings better than any ice tool out there. Try to demo all the tools you can and you will see for yourself. The picks penetrate well without shattering the ice. I go with two hammers so as to not risk opening up my face (not that a hammer back into my face if the tool pops, won't open me up, just less so than an adze!) I can use the pick (maybe not quite as efficiently, but worth it for safety) to cut through crap ice or dig a ledge out of the ice. I recommend going leashless, even with the Quarks. Free yourself up. It is the now. You may get more pumped, but that is because you are most likely over-gripping. Relax that grip to just before you slip off and that is how much you need to hold on, not any more! Also, going leashless lets you have less of a cluster fuck by not needing to unclip your clipper leash or pull your hand out of a traditional leash, or worse still, having your tool dangle from your wrist as you are throwing in a screw, clip a draw and get that rope in (all while your heart rate is going through the roof as your leg is doing a sweet Elvis impersonation - yes your leg and not you because you don't control it at this exact moment - maybe you will regain control as soon as you clip in to a good screw)! These tools plunge well, both with and without the grip-rest. The spike is the bomb and bites very well. There are two types of picks to choose from and they are both great!

Bottom line: the best all around (steep ice/mixed/alpine ice etc.) ice ax on the market! If you are going to get one tool that does it all, the Quark is the one.

For more in depth reviews check out my website: www.stephenkoch.com

Helpful Votes: 2 Yes

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Great Light and Strong Carabiner

Petzl Ange S Wire Gate Carabiner

Petzl Ange S Wire Gate Carabiner

Rating for this product: 5 August 3, 2011

The new Petzl Biners are fantastic! Petzl did their homework, as they always do, and managed to produce a carabiner worthy to follow the awesome Spirit, which set the standard for a great all around carabiner but is now way heavy compared to many lighter biners on the market. The Ange Wire Gate biners take a bit to get used to with the single wire, but with a little practice you will be clipping and unclipping with a smile on your face with these beautiful tool! The light weight is impressive as is the strength. There is nothing like a keylock to eliminate frustration due to getting the nose caught on a sling or bolt when trying to unclip. Bravo Petzl! Keep up the great work!

Bottom line: Fantastic carabiner for any type of climbing where you want to save weight and have strength. Highly recommend!

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes

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Great Biking Glassses

Kaenon Hard Kore Sunglasses - Polarized

Kaenon Hard Kore Sunglasses - Polarized

Rating for this product: 5 August 3, 2011

I have used the Hard Kore sunglasses for a few seasons as my main biking sunglasses. They breath well and have no frame on the bottom which allows excellent visibility for cycling. These shades stay on well and are comfortable.

Bottom line: Great biking shades that I highly recommend.

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes

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Great Multi-Tool

Leatherman Wave Multi-Tool

Leatherman Wave Multi-Tool

Rating for this product: 5 August 3, 2011

I have had a Leatherman Wave for years and have loved it. The cutter got tweaked and started sticking when I would use the pliers, which was a hassle. I sent it back and was rewarded with a new Wave. The locking blades, both straight edge and serrated, are solid and sharp! I use the scissors often. It is a heavy tool, but well worth its weight. I take it on ski/snowboard tours and to camp on climbs (leaving it there when going for the top to save weight).

Bottom line: Great Mulit-Tool with enough features and a great pair of pliers and two sharp and kick ass blades! Highly recommend!

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Excellent Touring Ski!!

Dynafit Manaslu Ski

Dynafit Manaslu Ski

Rating for this product: 5 July 29, 2011

These skis helped me tour like a bat out of hell due to their fantasticly low weight for the width. Dynafit really nailed it with the tip on this ski too. It raises up well while breaking trail, which saves energy and time and equals more turns or down in time for a nap after the beers! This is the ski I chose to bring for an expedition to the Wrangle-Saint Elias range in AK, where I was limited to one pair of skis. As a light weight all around ski the Manaslu has no equal. It handled powder, wind blown and breakable well. Sure, a heavier, fatter ski would always be nice on the way down, but you have to get up and the getting up on heavy skis sucks! So the compromise in stability in variable conditions is worth the weight savings on the way up. And these skis ride like bigger boards than they are with a very nice rise in the tip.

Bottom line: Excellent touring ski that skis bigger than it is and is a pleasure on both the up and the down!

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Sweet Touring Boots!

Dynafit TLT 5 Mountain TF-X Alpine Touring Boot - Men's

Dynafit TLT 5 Mountain TF-X Alpine Touring Boot - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 July 29, 2011

These boots tour exceptionally well due to the removable tongue and unique lock cuff system in the unlock position. Very well thought out. Then when it is time to ski, insert the tongue, close the buckle and you have yourself a great skiing boot that can handle fatter skis! They ski well without the tongue even, so on some tours I leave it behind to save weight if the skiing is not going to be too technical and conditions are good.

Bottom line: a light, super touring and great skiing boot that can help take your touring to another level!

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes

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Rome Smith Snowboard Boot - Men's

July 14, 2011

I have found Rome Boots to run pretty true to size. I wear a 10.5 with some work and an 11 without. My street shoes are 11.5.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Cloudveil Madison Insulated Parka - Women's

July 14, 2011

This Parka is perfect for winter camping, snowshoeing and skiing. Throw a fleece under it and you can stay out longer, on the dark side!

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Cloudveil Run Don't Walk 1/2-Zip Shirt- Long-Sleeve - Men's

July 14, 2011

They are pretty similar. The Capilene 4 may be a bit thicker than the RDW 1/2-Zip. I have used the RDW often over the years and like how low the zipper goes to vent on the way up, during work.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Light as AIR - Great Pad!

Therm-a-Rest NeoAir Sleeping Pad

Therm-a-Rest NeoAir Sleeping Pad

Rating for this product: 5 July 14, 2011

So far this pad has been amazing! Light as a feather and comfortable as all get up. I make sure to not over inflate it and it gives to make for a very comfortable sleep that works over lumps and rocks. I have been using a thin pad underneath that protects it from rocks as I am sketched out about punctures. I got the Large and would get the Medium if doing over. This is because it takes a long time to blow up and is a challenge to fold up. I keep it folded in thirds, as it comes from the manufacturer, and this seems to be the best way to store it. I would like to know if it can handle being used directly on stones but don't want to deal with punctures if it blows, so will keep using my super thin foam pad to keep the NeoAir off the stones. I used it nightly for two weeks on a glacier in Alaska and then again on a four day ski tour in the Wind River Mountains as well as several nights car camping with my son, and I sleep great with the NeoAir.

Bottom line...an amazingly light and comfortable sleeping pad that I highly recommend. If camping on sharp stones, I recommend bringing something to insulate the pad from the stones. A tent floor will probably suffice. I have been using the floorless Black Diamond MegaLite Tent...

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes

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Snowboard Mountaineering

Petzl Sum'Tec Mountaineering Axe

Petzl Sum'Tec Mountaineering Axe

Rating for this product: 5 June 7, 2011

I was on a trip to the Wrangle-St. Elias mountains last month and my partner had the Sum'Tec. I borrowed it for one descent and wouldn't give it back to him. This ax is a great tool for climbing steep snow couloirs. The Trigrest worked great and makes it easy to go from mountaineering tool to more technical tool in a few seconds by dropping the Trigrest down. The slight bend in the shaft was nice, especially for holding on descents. I banged the tool on my crampons to get rid of the balling (no anti-bot plates on the crampons I had).

Bottom line: a great light weight mountaineering ax.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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All You Need - 95% of the time!

Petzl Tikka 2 Headlamp

Petzl Tikka 2 Headlamp

Rating for this product: 5 January 2, 2011

The Petzl Tikka 2 Headlamp is a great little headlamp with some good improvements over the Tikka. I have been using mine for the past several weeks with the Core rechargeable battery, sold separately. This light is simple and functional. The light mode adjusts easily - with the push of the main button. For red, simply hold the button down. I love that it has a battery indicator light, which lets you know how much battery remains. The Tikka 2 stays put on my head and doesn't flop down as some other brands do. I like the addition of the red light and blinking red light. I use the red light for reading and when I need only a little light...with some moon, on an easy/big trail etc. Also, the red is boss for checking on sleeping children because it doesn't wake them up but allows enough light to make sure they are still breathing! I use the blinking red for bike riding to let drivers know where I am...could be a life saver, especially winter riding! This light is good for 95% of my needs. The other times I want a brighter beam, which the Tikka XP offers. But for the brightness, you pay. For the money this light is amazing. I keep one in the glovebox of my truck and it has proven invaluable for changing a late night tire and for several dig outs while stuck in snow on cold wintery nights.

Bottom line: a great headlamp that is simple and effective!f

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes

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FINALLY...

Petzl ACCU Core Rechargable Headlamp Battery

Petzl ACCU Core Rechargable Headlamp Battery

Rating for this product: 5 January 2, 2011

...a rechargeable headlamp that holds a charge a long time and has standard (old standard as rechargeable will become the new standard in time...thanks Petzl!) battery backup! The ACCU Core Battery was a bit tricky to open at first as I was worried about breaking it. But with a few attempts and patience I opened it and it charged easily, and conveniently uses the same cable as my phone, so I can charge it in the car too! I used the Core with a Tikka 2 and was impressed with how long it held a charge...lost track of how long it lasted on one charge as I was using it mostly taking the dog walking and for shorter trips, but it went on for many days without any loss of brightness. I have not messed with the software download as I am not into teching out too much with my headlamp. I just want it to work and to know I don't have to buy and throw away all those regular batteries!!! But I love to have the backup ability to keep a set of AAA Batteries in the pack for my headlamp or avalanche transceiver.

Bottom line: Great product that functions exceptionally well and is good for the environment!

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Millet Radikal Lite Mountaineering Boot - Men's

November 2, 2010

This boot is perfect for the climb and trek. Make sure you break it in by wearing it before heading over to Kili. Have fun! I have climbed Kili a few times by a few different routes and it is always fun. You will most likely have porters, so bringing a pair of light runners is not a problem. If there is no snow on the trail, a pair of light runners with gaitors and toe warmers. I use the toe warmers on top of my toes and poke small holes in them with a pin or pointy knife at altitude. This allows more oxygen to get to them. Beware: the toe warmers burn hotter and last LESS time when allowing more oxygen into them, so bring extras. They are worth their weight in gold to me and have saved me from frostbite on numerous occasions. May this help and may you have a safe, fun and successful adventure!

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes

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Sweet Climbing Rope!

Millet Diamax Triaxiale Single Rope - 10.2mm

Millet Diamax Triaxiale Single Rope - 10.2mm

Rating for this product: 5 October 14, 2010

I used this rope over the past couple of weeks rock climbing on very abrasive granite at the City of Rocks in southern Idaho. This rope shows no signs of wear after over 20 pitches. It handles really well, twisting has not been a problem and I love the color (green). I have been using smaller single ropes, between 9.2 and 9.6, over the past several years and really like the stoutness of this 10.2. It actually gives me more confidence to go for it in dicey situations knowing I have the extra girth. When uncoiling it when it was new I was able to stack it with nary a twist, which is unusual. I look forward to using this cord ice climbing this winter as I have been enjoying using a single rope more often than twins and doubles, simply because it is easier and less complicated. If a rappel rope is needed I bring a 5.5 mm Dynema pull cord or an 8 mm rope that the second trails. The Triaxiale is an interesting idea that will be interesting to experience as the rope gets more use over the next several months.

Bottom line: Great rope that gives me confidence, has exceptional handling and looks to be on its way to lasting a LONG time!

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes

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Great Video Camera!

Contour ContourHD 1080p Wearable Camcorder

Contour ContourHD 1080p Wearable Camcorder

Rating for this product: 5 October 14, 2010

This is a great video camera. It is small, light and simple to use. I have used it mountain biking with the handlebar mount, whitewater rafting with the waterproof case and with my mountain bike helmet. I find it works best mounted on top of the head vs. side mounted. When sidemounted it tends to pull the light mountain bike helmet to the side. I have also used it with my mountaineering helmet during a climb on the Grand Teton where my partner fell and broke her leg. She made a sweet video. Check it out here: http://stephenkoch.com/2010/09/shattered-story-of-a-mountain-rescue/

I normally use the waterproof case to protect the camera from dirt, moisture and lens scratches. One caveat, the audio sucks with the case.

It is easy to know if you are recording with both lights and audio beeps. The small leash is weak and should not be trusted to prevent loss of the camera in case of a serious fall.

Overall, I recommend this camera and look forward to using it this winter while getting face shots!

Helpful Votes: 3 Yes

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Petzl Dragonfly 8.2mm Half Rope

September 14, 2010

It is possible to use this rope as a single but not recommended. You can use your shoelaces if you choose...

I have, on occasion, used this rope as a single...not what it is intended for nor is it recommended. If you are doing shorter pitches (less than 30 meters) you can double it up...either tie into the middle or to both ends.

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TIGHT WATERPROOF CASE!

Contour Contour HD Waterproof Camcorder Case

Contour Contour HD Waterproof Camcorder Case

Rating for this product: 5 August 10, 2010

The Contour Camera waterproof case is boss! It is easy to use with good on/off and record/stop recording buttons. I have used it during whitewater rafting adventures as well as during a water balloon fight and swimming party at a friend of my young son's birthday party. The Contour camera is so easy to use that my son has shot video with it! The screen has not shown any signs of scratching and cleans easily. The case opens and closes easily and securely. I have not had any water penetrate the case. I have been using the case all the time that I am shooting outdoors to keep dirt and grit out of the camera. The picture does not show any signs of degradation with the case on as the window is clear!

Bottom line...a great waterproof case for an amazing camera!

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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The North Face Cat's Meow Sleeping Bag: 20 Degree Climashield Prism

June 17, 2010

If your feet get hot in a sleeping bag that is a good thing vs. the other way...cold feet. You can do a few things to alleviate hot feet...open bag all the way and wear over you like a blanket with feet out, bring a lighter weight, cooler bag. Keeping feet warm is vital in cold conditions, so most bags do not have zippers all the way down to the feet. This would add a lot of weight and make the feet area colder.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Scarpa Charmoz GTX Boot - Men's

April 25, 2010

The Charmoz are definitely a bit wider in the toe box and seem to run slightly larger than the Sportiva's.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Scarpa Charmoz GTX Boot - Men's

April 25, 2010

I have these boots and they fit my med to wide foot well. They are wider than the comparable boot from Sportiva, the S EVO GTX. I had to have the Sportiva's widened by my local cobbler, and recommend it as an easy solution to solve a slightly narrow boot for a wider foot. I have had many boots widened at the local cobbler here in Jackson, Jackson Hole Boot and Shoe Repair.

Helpful Votes: 2 Yes

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Voile Splitboard Mountain Plate Kit

April 25, 2010

1.lb. 5oz./0.60kg is the weight of the bindings alone.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Voile Splitboard Mountain Plate Kit

April 25, 2010

If you are referring to the slider plate mounting holes, the distance between is approximately 38 mm / 1.5". If you are referring to the adjustment distance options, the distance (fore/aft)between holes in the plastic plate binding is approximately 6.35 mm / .25".

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Nimble and Light - Highly Recommend!

Scarpa Phantom Lite Mountaineering Boot - Men's

Scarpa Phantom Lite Mountaineering Boot - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 April 16, 2010

I used the Phantom Lights out of the box for a late season session in Highlight Canyon where I warmed up on a couple of moderate ice routes before hitting the classic Alex Lowe route, Come and Get It. At first I was concerned I did not have my fruit boots (rock shoes with crampons) to tackle this technical and intimidating route. But after slamming in some gear to protect the first overhanging section I was stoked with these nimble and light weight boots. The ankle movement was great and my heel stayed put with the lacing system snuggly locked and tied. My one complaint is that the thinness of the lace was uncomfortable and even painful to tighten securely. And when I tried to change the laces for something thicker I realized getting to the bottom eyelets would have been harder than performing many surgeries, so I relaced the thin ones and will endure. That being said, these boots climb better than other boots in this category, are warm and also exceptionally comfortable, RIGHT OUT OF THE BOX! I had to size down to a 44 after using a 44.5 in the Sportiva Batura's and even could have gone with a 43.5 with a little work with the local cobbler.

Bottom line: Great ice and mixed boot that is super comfortable, stable and climbs better than some fruit boots while keeping my toes nice and warm.

Highly recommend!

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes

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OSPREY PACKS - FLYIN' HIGH!

Osprey Packs Variant 52 Backpack - 3000-3400cu in

Osprey Packs Variant 52 Backpack - 3000-3400cu in

Rating for this product: 5 April 13, 2010

Osprey makes great packs and the Variant is no exception. It is light weight AND comfortable. This pack is also functional. The Variant carries what I need it to for a day of ice climbing and has great hardware that works. The ice axe holders work well, even with leashless tools. I would like to have one long strap on either side to strap on a tent or sleeping pad. Climbing with this pack on is easy as it is with a slightly narrower waist.

Bottom line: Great climbing pack!

Helpful Votes: 2 Yes

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ALINE'S ROCK!

ALINE Footbed

ALINE Footbed

Rating for this product: 4 April 13, 2010

Been using the Aline footbed for the winter, primarily in my Rendonee ski boots. They took a few outings to get used to, but once there, they really felt great! I feel they offer more stability for and control while skiing.

They are a bit grabby when putting foot into boot, which is kind of a hassle.

Bottom line: good footbed that increases performance and comfort!

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Rockin Boxer Brief

I/O Bio Merino Contact Boxer Brief - Men's

I/O Bio Merino Contact Boxer Brief - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 April 9, 2010

I love the softness and comfort of these briefs. I may fit a Medium better than the Larges that I have. My waist is 33" and the Larges are the slightest bit loose but don't fall down. I am interested to find out how long they last. The waist band feels stout enough to last a while. The fly functions well. The hand on these is exceptionally soft and supple. Very comfortable briefs that my wife says I look sexy as hell in.

Bottom line: Great brief that won't smell from perspiration alone after one or two uses. Soft as a babies bottom!

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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GREAT VERSATILE HOODIE

I/O Bio Merino Signature Hoodigan Pullover Sweatshirt - Men's

I/O Bio Merino Signature Hoodigan Pullover Sweatshirt - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 April 9, 2010

I have been using the Hoodigan top as my insulation layer while backcountry snowboarding. I layer with an I/O Bio Euro Tee, which is what I wear alone if warm or with my Soft Shell Jacket if windy or colder and add the Hoodigan if it gets cold or for descent. I had all the above layers on yesterday in Grand Teton National Park, where I was splitboarding up the West Hourglass Couloir on Nez Perce. The Hoodigan was vital to my warmth with the wind whipping and I was stoked to throw the hood on and instantly be warmer.

Inside, he Hoodigan looks great and fits well. I am rocking an XL and it is long enough in both the waist and arms. I am 6'2" with a long torso. It is my experience that the torso length of I/O Bio products is long, which is great. Nothing worse than having your shirt come untucked during wintery activities, that is unless I pull it out and roll it up and hook it on my avalanche transceiver to cool down a bit. I try to regulate my temp without taking clothing off and putting it on. This entails pushing up sleeves to expose wrists/forearms to cool down, untucking shirt and rolling the entire bottom of the shirt (front and back) up to get my midsection air, taking off the hoodie.

The softness of I/O Bio Merino can't be overstated. This stuff is extremely soft and comfortable. I am stoked they exist because I like to have functional clothing that looks good while using it in the hills as well as during life in the valley. Another bitchin aspect to I/O Bio merino is the fact that I can wear it in the mountains ALL DAY, sweating profusely at times, and not have it smell! I can go two or maybe three days of use without it needing to be washed.

Bottom line: Great Hoodie that functions well both in the mountains and on the town.

Helpful Votes: 3 Yes

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F1 - Great Splitboard Boot!

Scarpa F1 Boot

Scarpa F1 Boot

Rating for this product: 5 April 7, 2010

The F1's are a great boot for splitboarding. I removed the tongue on the back boot to soften them up. The bellows makes for smooth and comfortable uphill riding and even offers a bit of flex on the way down, which is a benefit to me as a snowboarder. I use Dynafit toe pieces for the up and have been using both Voile Mountain Plates and Burton Race Plates for the riding. The board I am rocking is a Rome Split Proto that is super light and fun.

I love the fact that I can DRIVE MY CAR safely in these boots! It is so nice to get to the trailhead and GO without having to change into boots. I am so stoked to find this boot and get back into hard boot splitboarding. I was over the challenges of splitting with a soft boot setup. Even though the Spark Fuse Soft Splitboard Binding is great it doesn't help much with traversing firm sidehills.

These boots are difficult to get in, to have my heel drop into the pocket, but I imagine this will get easier with time.

I have a fairly wide foot and once I baked the liners I had the room needed for comfort and warmth around the bellows. The cord holding the rubber ball to open and close the tour/ski latch broke the first time I used it. I drilled out the cord and threaded a simple cord through that is holding nicely for the time being.

I also used these boots hiking Glory Bowl on Teton Pass after doing a tour up West Mail Cabin on the West side of the pass. It is a pleasure to have a firm toe to use on the firm and snowy steps heading up to the top of Glory.

Bottom line: I think you will be seeing many more snowboarders using hard boots for splitboarding and backcountry riding in general and the F1's are the best I have found!

For more in depth reviews check out my website - www.stephenkoch.com

Helpful Votes: 3 Yes

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Addition

Scarpa Hurricane Alpine Touring Boot

Scarpa Hurricane Alpine Touring Boot

Rating for this product: 4 April 7, 2010

The Hurricanes would benefit from a walk mode adjustment, which will be on next season's model as well as available as an add on to this model.

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes

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Definitely Recommend - YES!

Scarpa Hurricane Alpine Touring Boot

Scarpa Hurricane Alpine Touring Boot

Rating for this product: 4 April 7, 2010

The Hurricanes are a wonderfully stiff, light and WARM boot that are also comfortable with an even flex. I had been using Garmont Radiums and was always wanting more responsiveness from them. I rocked a pair of Solomon Czar's with the Hurricanes and had no problem driving the skis with ease. There is a minor con to be aware of with these boots, which is why I gave a rating of 4 stars vs. 5. The buckles get stuck under the tongue of the boot. This is an inconvenience that can be overcome with a simple system of holding the buckles out when bringing the tongue back. The color is not my favorite and I may even spray paint them black or a different color to mute them a bit. As far as a light weight ski boot that drives even the biggest skis, you can't go wrong with the Hurricane.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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LIKE RIDING A SNOWBOARD only EASIER

Salomon Czar Ski

Salomon Czar Ski

Rating for this product: 5 April 7, 2010

The Solomon Czar's were the first fat ski that I have ever used and I absolutely loved them. I have snowboarded for years and have been skiing with my son on an old pair of Fisher Big Stix, Dynafits and Garmont Radiums. I rode the 182 Czar's with a pair of Scarpa Hurricanes one day last week. I had the chance to observe snow control with a friend of mine who is on the Jackson Hole Ski Patrol. It was a powder day that ended up being stable. We hiked the headwall above the top of the Gondola and then headed north, all the way to the area boundary and had some of the best turns of my life. I felt I could have definitely benefited from a 191 (I am 6'1" / 190#), but the 182 was keeping me afloat easily. Riding these skis in the new deep pow-pow was easier than snowboarding!

I couldn't get the Czar's to carve on the groomers, but this is not surprising due to the limited sidecut of the ski as well as my lack of experience carving on skis. They felt snappy and responsive and I truly felt like a hero riding these skis.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Cloudveil Four Pines Insulated Pant - Men's

March 20, 2010

I used these pants over 30 days this winter, skiing and snowboarding at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, and they were bomber and still look and feel great. The waist is normal height. I went with an XL for size and use suspenders. I like to wear them big for inbounds riding. For backcountry riding I use a lighter, non-insulated pant. The Jacket snaps to the pants at three points on the powder skirt, which allowed NO snow to enter my backside!

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Cloudveil Zorro LT Jacket - Men's

March 20, 2010

The fabric in the Zoro is a waterproof / breathable, similar to Gore-Tex. It will keep the rain out all day, but maybe not for as long (life of jacket) as Gore-Tex.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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NICE Merino Shirt - Recommend!

I/O Bio Merino Contact Crib Shirt - Long-Sleeve -Men's

I/O Bio Merino Contact Crib Shirt - Long-Sleeve -Men's

Rating for this product: 4 February 16, 2010

I have the I/O Bio Merino Contact Crib Shirt and like it for several reasons. It is comfortable, warm and stylish. The cut is somewhat athletic, which I personally want. I used it for three days of activities, snowboarding on Teton Pass (which involves an approx. 1 hour hike before ripping powder for 10 to 30 minutes!), skinning up Snow King Mountain, the "town" (Jackson, WY) hill...45 minute casual skin up cat track with buddy in the early morning...up to the top where one is greeted with the beautiful sun for a few minutes until descending back down into the shaded north side of the mountain) and climbing at the Enclosure Rock Climbing Gym. The Crib Shirt did not smell in the least after all these activities. Merino rocks for not smelling like something very foul after one slight sweat, as all synthetic shirts tend to do. The hand of this shirt is soft and comfortable. On the downside, the sleeves are short (hence the four stars vs. five). The torso could be longer as well, but was not too bad. I have a long torso and long arms, but the arm length was what I would consider unacceptable (size large). The shirt I had was given to me at the Outdoor Retailer Trade Show and could have been a prototype, but not too sure. I will buy an XL and report back on the length.

Bottom line: great Merino shirt at a good price. And the folks running the business are cool!

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Good Children's Helmet

Giro Slingshot Helmet - Kids'

Giro Slingshot Helmet - Kids'

Rating for this product: 5 January 4, 2010

The Giro Slingshot Helmet has worked great for my son, who has been skiing with it for the past two seasons. He is now 3 1/2 and is in the middle size range with a hat on underneath, so will be able to continue to wear it for another year, at least. It is easily adjustable, does not fall forward into his eyes, and is warm and comfortable too. The snap goggle strap holder in the back is strong, simple and works well. I have tested it out many times when having to do a middle of Teewinot lift at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, a short and fast quad chair ride that doesn't offer any time to waist before having to be back in order for the bar raising and unloading after, cleaning. It looks to offer good protection against hits and fortunately we have not tested it out yet! Clean looking too...not for long as he is getting stoked to add some stickers to it! Good value to boot!

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Great Jacket For Your Little Ripper

Patagonia Puff Rider Jacket - Infant Boys'

Patagonia Puff Rider Jacket - Infant Boys'

Rating for this product: 5 October 2, 2009

This jacket is great for a little one that loves being outside in winter conditions. My son used his extensively. The quality is excellent, fit good and is a very warm jacket. It held up through a winter of regular use with little wear and water resistance in tact. Patagonia makes excellent infant/childrens cloths for outdoor oriented families.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Cloudveil Down Patrol Jacket - Women's

September 27, 2009

I used the Down Patrol Jacket (men's) snowboarding at Jackson Hole all winter last year. It kept me warm on cold days, dry on snowy ones. The Down Patrol by Cloudveil also has pit zipps, which I had open on warmer days. This is a surprisingly versatile jacket that I highly recommend.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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The North Face Classic Denali Fleece Jacket - Boys'

September 27, 2009

Most waterproof/breathable shells will work well over this, or any, fleece jacket for providing protection from cold and wet conditions. A fleece jacket under a shell offers insulation from the wet and cold through the layer between you and the elements (including right next to the shell...hence the importance of having a layer or two (fleece and wool long underwear is a good combination).

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes

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Icebreaker BodyFit 200 Legging w/Fly - Men's

September 16, 2009

I am 6'1 with a 32.5" inseam and Large fits me well. If you want loose long underwear, go for the XL.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Icebreaker BodyFit 200 Legging w/Fly - Men's

September 16, 2009

The quality of Icebreaker is as good as it gets. I have used both and prefer Icebreaker to SW.

Regarding your knee brace wearing with wool long underwear...just be careful because they do tend to snag.

May you be healthy.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Cloudveil Rayzar Gore Windstopper Softshell Jacket - Men's

September 16, 2009

It has a Gore laminate that should keep you dry from outside moisture, even on wet days. That being said, it is still a softshell. I use softshells, including this one, about 95% of the time I am outside. I carry a lightweight hardshell in my pack when climbing. For riding/skiing I use a hardshell when it is going to be solidly precipitating above freezing.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Petzl Cordex Belay/Rappel Glove

September 16, 2009

Get both sizes and keep the one that fits better.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Petzl Cordex Belay/Rappel Glove

September 16, 2009

I believe there is only one glove, the "Cordex", which is advertised and is actually a "lightweight" belay/rappel glove. I have used this glove and it is indeed lightweight. If you want something lighter then I suggest a driving glove. These are great gloves and if you try on several pairs, you will inevitably will find one pair a bit thinner (due to the nature of leather) than the others.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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DMM Revolver Wire Gate Carabiner

September 14, 2009

I think it will hold up well, as long as you are in fresh water. Also, check it regularly and if needed, throw some bike chain lube on it to keep it rolling smoothly.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Garmont Adrenalin Alpine Touring Ski Boot - Men's

September 14, 2009

Hit up your local cobbler. They are usually great with throwing on a Vibram sole.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Cloudveil Koven Pant - Men's

September 14, 2009

The Koven Pants are not flimsy for their weight. If you want something beefy that will last for years of hard use, I suggest a heavier fabric (Gore three layer type). I find these pants last 2 seasons of regular use (roughly 100 days) of both front and backcountry use.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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La Sportiva Cobra Climbing Shoe - Discontinued Rubber

September 14, 2009

The Cobra's will probably stretch a bit more than the Solutions.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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La Sportiva Cobra Climbing Shoe - Discontinued Rubber

September 14, 2009

The Cobra is not at all what I would consider a down turned shoe, like the Testarossa. It is a more standard slipper that is a great all around shoe if your feet are strong (you have the strength to stand on small edges without the help of an edging shoe). I size these and most all my climbing shoes large. That way I can be in them comfortably all day, or at least for extended periods without being in pain. Life has enough suffering without tight rock climbing shoes. Do yourself a favor and go BIG! The only drawback is that the shoe can "roll" a bit when you are trying to small edges, which can be overcome with strong toes/feet.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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La Sportiva Spantik Mountaineering Boot - Men's

September 14, 2009

I find La Sportiva and Scarpa's both run pretty true to size and similar with Scarpa's generally running a bit wider.
These are great boots...see my review. May you enjoy climbing in these boots!

Helpful Votes: 2 Yes

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La Sportiva Nepal EVO GTX Mountaineering Boot - Men's

June 29, 2009

Batura's much lighter weight. Not sure about the Mammut's.

Another option is to go with Sportiva's TRANGO EXTREME EVO LIGHT GTX. I have used these boots for many water ice pitches as well as on long alpine climbs in winter and they excel.

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes

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La Sportiva Nepal EVO GTX Mountaineering Boot - Men's

June 29, 2009

Batura's much lighter weight. Not sure about the Mammut's.

Another option is to go with Sportiva's TRANGO EXTREME EVO LIGHT GTX. I have used these boots for many water ice pitches as well as on long alpine climbs in winter and they excel.

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes

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La Sportiva Exum Pro Approach Shoe - Men's

June 29, 2009

I would go with the 45's. If they are tight, get the 45.5's. I am an 11.5 and wear 44.5/45...
Good luck!

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Life-Link Yosemite Anti-Shock Trekking Pole - 1 Pair

June 29, 2009

These are the better choice if you want shock absorption. May you have safe, fun and successful hikes!

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Life-Link Yosemite Anti-Shock Trekking Pole - 1 Pair

June 29, 2009

These are the better choice if you want shock absorption. May you have safe, fun and successful hikes!

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Rome Anthem Snowboard

June 29, 2009

I weigh 190 lbs. and ride all over Jackson Hole, both in bounds and out. I have repeatedly hit rocks and not blown an edge. On one edge hit that sent me flying I had a super minor compression, but that is to be expected. Most other boards would have had an edge flapping...not the Rome Flag...that's how tough...

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Rome Anthem Snowboard

June 29, 2009

I weigh 190 lbs. and ride all over Jackson Hole, both in bounds and out. I have repeatedly hit rocks and not blown an edge. On one edge hit that sent me flying I had a super minor compression, but that is to be expected. Most other boards would have had an edge flapping...not the Rome Flag...that's how tough...

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Rome Flag Snowboard - Wide

June 29, 2009

The Flag may be a bit stiff for the freestyle riding you write of. For an all around board that handles speed well and cuts through variable condition snow with aplomb, the Flag rocks.

Your 45 boots might be pushing it on a 26.1 mm ww...might have to ride seriously duck. If you do anyway, I think you will be fine with minimum to zero drag.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Rome Flag Snowboard - Wide

June 29, 2009

The Flag may be a bit stiff for the freestyle riding you write of. For an all around board that handles speed well and cuts through variable condition snow with aplomb, the Flag rocks.

Your 45 boots might be pushing it on a 26.1 mm ww...might have to ride seriously duck. If you do anyway, I think you will be fine with minimum to zero drag.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Black Diamond Quantum 55 Pack - 3234-3356cu in

June 29, 2009

Check out theGoLite Pursuit Pack - 3100cu in...might be right up your alley.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Black Diamond Quantum 55 Pack - 3234-3356cu in

June 29, 2009

Check out theGoLite Pursuit Pack - 3100cu in...might be right up your alley.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Backcountry.com Shift Welder Hoody - Men's

June 29, 2009

Super glue or Seam Grip are other options. Good to test out on a small area that doesn't show before fully committing...

Good luck!

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Backcountry.com Shift Welder Hoody - Men's

June 29, 2009

Super glue or Seam Grip are other options. Good to test out on a small area that doesn't show before fully committing...

Good luck!

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Petzl Tibloc Ultralight Emergency Ascender

June 29, 2009

Yes. I recommend using the Tibloc with a large diameter locking carabiner, like the Petzl Attache.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Petzl Cordex Belay/Rappel Glove

June 29, 2009

This glove would be perfect for your HD climb.

May you have a safe, fun and successful adventure!

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Petzl Cordex Belay/Rappel Glove

June 29, 2009

This glove would be perfect for your HD climb.

May you have a safe, fun and successful adventure!

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Petzl Nomic Leashless Ice Climbing Tool

June 29, 2009

I have used these tools extensively on low angle ice and snow to WI6 and steep mixed climbing. It does well in all but better at steeper angles. If you are going to primarily be climbing WI2/3 I suggest getting the Petzl Quarks.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Petzl Nomic Leashless Ice Climbing Tool

June 29, 2009

I have used these tools extensively on low angle ice and snow to WI6 and steep mixed climbing. It does well in all but better at steeper angles. If you are going to primarily be climbing WI2/3 I suggest getting the Petzl Quarks.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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The North Face Classic Denali Fleece Jacket - Girls'

June 29, 2009

I think she would fit a Small or Medium, not a L/XL...

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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The North Face Classic Denali Fleece Jacket - Girls'

June 29, 2009

I think she would fit a Small or Medium, not a L/XL...

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Backcountry Access Stash BC Rider Backpack - 2135cu in

June 29, 2009

You can replace the bladder through Backcountry Access directly if you can't find it at www.backcountry.com

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Cloudveil RPK Pant - Men's

June 29, 2009

The RPK Pants fit a bit different than the Koven Pant...running larger. I used a large Koven Bib and also the RPK pant and the RPK was a bit large in the waist for my 33" waist.
Hope this helps...

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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LIGHT, GREAT HANDLING AND DURABLE ROPE

Petzl Dragonfly 8.2mm Half Rope

Petzl Dragonfly 8.2mm Half Rope

Rating for this product: 5 April 1, 2009

A few months ago I used one of these ropes on the Black Ice Couloir. The climb was a bit "modern" with thin and mixed sections and the rope was perfect, offering security and weight savings so we could move fast. The Valhalla Traverse was really fun with a little new snow to keep it interesting and offer some footing over the frozen kitty litter type material that you have to cross get to the Black Ice. These ropes are light weight and have great handling. The butterfly coil, as an other reviewer already said, really works well, eliminating the need to coil and uncoil your new rope several times to get the kinks out before use. These ropes are showing noticeably less wear than a pair of Beal cords that I had a couple years ago with even fewer pitches on them. Orange and green happen to be a couple of my favorite colors too!

Helpful Votes: 3 Yes

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Good Standard Tight

Cloudveil Run Don't Walk Tight - Men's

Cloudveil Run Don't Walk Tight - Men's

Rating for this product: 4 March 25, 2009

These tights are good. They are warm and comfortable and fit well. I use them on colder days of climbing and riding. A zipper for peeing would be helpful. Bulky, but this is where the warmth and comfort come from.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Durable and warm mittens

Cloudveil Troller Mitten

Cloudveil Troller Mitten

Rating for this product: 4 March 25, 2009

The Troller Mitts are very durable with thick leather. I have had mine for 3 years and they are still going strong. I treat the leather a couple times a winter, which helps with the water repellent properties. I melted the Schoeller fabric when drying them early on, which deformed and cracked but still functions. They are warm but not HOT. The fingers are separated by fleece, which I think is weak in a mitten. Designers getting fancy and getting away from the best thing about mittens...that you can have your warm fingers warm the cold (or getting cold) digit through DIRECT CONTACT!

Overall a good and durable mitten that has held up very well to over 100 days of use snowboarding Jackson Hole Mountain and Teton Backcountry.

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes

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AWESOME WINTER HAT!!

Cloudveil Branded Beanie

Cloudveil Branded Beanie

Rating for this product: 5 March 25, 2009

I love this hat and wore it all winter. Literally all winter. I even slept in it on cold nights (my wife likes to keep the room colder than me...has nothing to do with no sex for six months after child is born). It fits well, covering my ears to their bottoms, which is vital, especially when traversing Rendezvous Bowl with a howling wind trying to nip anything exposed. Warm, not scratchy and doesn't smell much after wearing and not washing for weeks on end!

Colors are great...simple, solid and with a hint of a 2nd color to help match well for those fashion conscious.

Great hat that fits well (functions), is warm and looks cool.

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes

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Perfect For Lift Service Riding

Cloudveil Run Don't Walk Boxer - Men's

Cloudveil Run Don't Walk Boxer - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 March 25, 2009

These Boxers are perfect for that little extra bit of warmth when tearing it up at a lift service mountain. They insulate well when sitting on the lift, fit well, help with preventing frostbite on your penis if you are in a strong, bitterly cold wind with Schoeller Dynamic pants. Stretchy, warm, fun, functional and chicks dig them. Literally they want to wear them at night when it is cold because they are so warm and comfortable. Also offer a slight bit of padding which helps when the conditions get firm or you hip check your landings.

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes

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LEASHLESS KNUCKLE SAVERS

Petzl Griprest Quark Hand Rest

Petzl Griprest Quark Hand Rest

Rating for this product: 5 March 25, 2009

These Griprests for the Quark ice axes by Petzl are wonderful. They protect my knuckles from smashing into ice and make it easier to hold onto the tool. Attaches easily too.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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RECOMMENDED JACKET

Patagonia Baby Puff Rider Jacket - Infants'

Patagonia Baby Puff Rider Jacket - Infants'

Rating for this product: 5 March 25, 2009

This jacket is great for a little one that loves being outside in winter conditions. My son used his extensively. The quality is excellent, fit good and is a very warm jacket. It held up through a winter with little wear and water resistance in tact. Patagonia makes excellent baby/childrens cloths for those outdoor oriented families.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Great Binding

Rome 390 Snowboard Binding

Rome 390 Snowboard Binding

Rating for this product: 5 March 25, 2009

The 390 Bindings are a solid all around binding that I have used extensively this season riding hard at JH. The buckles and straps are strong, easy to adjust and work like butter with excellent hold. Well thought out design details that are appreciated towards the end of a long day of riding!

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Cloudveil Enclosure Hooded Jacket - Men's

March 24, 2009

It runs pretty true to size. I take an XXL to use as a belay jacket over other layers. I normally fit an XL in CV jackets due to having longer arms and torso.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Cloudveil Zero-G Jacket - Men's

March 24, 2009

I think CV jackets run pretty true to size. I take an XL (6'1" with long arms and torso). So I would say NO to your question about Cloudveil running a size large.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Petzl Simba Full Body Harness - Kids'

March 24, 2009

This harness should work for three year olds, unless they are especially small and light.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Cloudveil Troller Mitten

March 24, 2009

These mittens are fairly warm and exceptionally durable. For really cold days I use a warmer mitten. These Mittens have separated fingers, which I don't like as having the ability to let warm fingers warm cold is a key function of mitts.

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes

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Cloudveil Koven Pant - Men's

March 24, 2009

You are going to be pushing a Medium's size with 33" waist. I would go with a Large, especially with larger thighs and hips.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Great softer boot

Rome Libertine Snowboard Boot - Men's

Rome Libertine Snowboard Boot - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 March 9, 2009

The Rome Libertine boot is an excellent softer flexing boot. I normally ride stiffer boots and got a pair of these to use for powder conditions and also to have a very comfortable boot. Rome boots have a roomy toe box, which I like because I have a fairly wide foot. I also regularly put toe warmers in my boots and there is enough room for this, even downsizing to a 10.5. My street shoe is 11 / 11.5 US. These boots flex like butter, are comfortable and light. If you want a generously flexing boot with a wider toe box that rides and looks great, the Libertine's are for you.

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes

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Sweet Powder Board

Rome Notch 1985 Snowboard

Rome Notch 1985 Snowboard

Rating for this product: 5 March 9, 2009

I have been stuck riding wider boards...Flag by Rome, due to 11.5 feet. I snuck into a pair of 10.5's recently, which allowed me to rock this board. I have had a great time both in the resort and out in the backcountry. It is flexy but holds an edge well. I have had a blast doing butters on the groomed trails, which I haven't done much of on other boards. Tricks are for kids and I like acting like one on this board. I was able to handle some really steep terrain on it as well. It is responsive and floats so evenly and effortlessly - a very surfy feel. Handles landing smoothly and is very light weight, which is great when carrying it up hill!

Bottom line: fun board for ripping powder and having a good time!

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Petzl Dart Crampon

March 6, 2009

For that large a boot, you will probably need a longer linking bar, an accessory bough separate. I know both petzl and grivel make them for their crampons, but I am pretty sure they all do! check out manufacturers sites;These will not fit a 15 with the bar provided. You can get them from Petzl. Just googled it and found them at ems for $17. They are called PETZL Long-Link Bar Crampon Extensions.

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Petzl Dart Crampon

March 6, 2009

The current photo above is of the Dart. The Dartwin has two front points, vs. one on the Dart. The sidelock works very well. It is really nice to not have a bulky piece of plastic digging into your heel, especially through leather boots. it is important to always have the strap go over the lever to "lock" it in place. This crampon fits my Garmont Radium's and a couple pairs of older Dynafit boots. It is also possible to purchase wider bails from Petzl (sold as Telemark Toe Bails).

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4 STAR BOOT

Garmont Radium Alpine Touring Boot - Men's

Garmont Radium Alpine Touring Boot - Men's

Rating for this product: 4 January 29, 2009

These boots are light, ski well, and seem very durable. My major complaint is that they are a little narrow and rub my "6th" toe. I am going to try and have them punched or ground for additional width. The material of the shell is great. I was up Death Canyon in Grand Teton National Park last week on an ice/mixed climb that I skied in on these boots, changed into my climbing boots and left these in the pack. When I returned several hours later (no sun) I was able to get my foot in without too much work. The strong pull tabs on the tongue and back of the liner really helped with this! These boots ski really well...can lock them down well and they feel tight. As apposed to another reviewer, I feel the walk/ski modes are markedly different with the walk mode flowing nicely and the ski mode locked down nicely.

In short: these boots are light and ski well. If you have a wide forefoot, you might have some work to do to accommodate your big foot, like me!

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Beautiful Caribiner

Petzl Attache HERA Locking Carabiner***DO NOT USE***

Petzl Attache HERA Locking Carabiner***DO NOT USE***

Rating for this product: 4 January 9, 2009

The Attache is a proven locker that I have used for years. It opens reliably and stays closed and locked when you want it to. It doesn't need to be overtightened, but if it is can be undone with some tension while opening. Like all crabs it will get challenging to open in icy conditions when the temps are near freezing or near freezing and get really cold when things are wet. I put mine inside my jacket to dry/warm it and it works. Or blow on it to heat it up and get it open. Strong this crab is. Heavy by todays standards, that is why I give it four stars instead of 5. Looking forward to Petzl's new carabiner line which will eventually come out and blow everyone away with the quality and innovation.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Ice Breaker Kills It

Icebreaker BodyFit 200 Legging w/Fly - Men's

Icebreaker BodyFit 200 Legging w/Fly - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 December 18, 2008

These are my go to long underwear for anything cold. If really cold I add a Cloudveil Run Don't Walk Tight, but only if it is REALLY cold and I am using Schoeller type pants vs. hard shell. If in a hardshell then these are usually warm enough. They fit well. I wear a large and have a 33" waist and 32" inseam. I use them often and they are holding up well. Super comfortable against the skin. Don't smell. Good fly. Elastic waist band holding up nicely.

Highly recommend this product.

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes

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Petzl Meteor III Climbing Helmet

December 16, 2008

The Meteor III is a great climbing helmet that I have used as a bike helmet and boating helmet when doing multi-sports. It is light and well adjustable. May you have a blast during your race!

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Great Mixed Pick That Climbs Ice Well

Petzl Astro Mixed Climbing Pick for Nomic Ice Tool

Petzl Astro Mixed Climbing Pick for Nomic Ice Tool

Rating for this product: 5 November 7, 2008

The Astro is a beefy pick that offers durability for the long haul. I have torqued this pick in thin cracks and hauled my 200 lbs. up many a mixed climbs and not bent it. Thinner picks, which penetrate the ice easier, wear out much faster. You can still file down the tip if the pick to narrow it for easier penetration and less ice displacement. The teeth on the top of the pick can be good for increased purchase on rock but can be a major pain on the rare occasion you penetrate deeply and they get stuck. The long tooth doesn't seem to add much to the pick and doesn't bother me.

Bottom line: The Astro shines as a mixed pick because of durability yet climbs ice very well, especially with a bit of filing.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Great ICE pick!

Petzl Cascade Ice Pick for Quark

Petzl Cascade Ice Pick for Quark

Rating for this product: 5 November 7, 2008

The Cascade pick, when attached to a Quark or Nomic, penetrates the ice like a hot knife into butter, only faster! The reason for the great penetration is the slender 3mm tip, tapered down from 4mm farther back. These picks are beautifully made too. I have sharpened mine down well over 1/4" and the tool still climbs great! If you are going to do much "slotting" as is mentioned in the description above, I recommend the Quad, a beefier (4mm T rated) pick for the Quark.

Bottom Line: This is a special ice climbing pick for a remarkable ice climbing tool.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Great Infant Winter Suit

Patagonia Reversible Puff-Ball Bunting - Infant/Toddler Girls'

Patagonia Reversible Puff-Ball Bunting - Infant/Toddler Girls'

Rating for this product: 5 November 7, 2008

This was the go to piece when heading outside with my son last winter. Even on the coldest days in JH we were able to bundle up and ride the bike to the rec center for swimming lessons. This suit would keep him warm with nothing more on than a swimming diaper underneath. The fit is good and roomy enough for added layers. Zippers work well for changing and the reversibility is nice when you get tired of smelling mom's breast milk while wearing the Baby Bjorn. Patagonia quality is outstanding and the attention to detail shows in this piece, as with many of their other infant/child products.

Check out my website for more in depth gear reviews - www.stephenkoch.com

Helpful Votes: 7 Yes

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Great for racking many screws!

Petzl Caritool Tool Holder

Petzl Caritool Tool Holder

Rating for this product: 5 October 17, 2008

The Caritool by Petzl is a great and inexpensive way to get more organized, efficient and safer while ice climbing. I have one Caritool on either side of my harness and rack my screws in them for leading or when following. Before launching into my next lead I try to figure out (by viewing the way ahead) which size screw I will need when and rack accordingly. I am also scoping out rests and getting a general idea of how I will tackle (not Jack) the pitch. Even if I don't plan exactly the way I end up using the screws, the Caritool lets me off the hook by allowing me to move one or two screws (not the size I need at the moment but the screw/s that are "next") up on top, without unclipping them, where they stay because of the ridges and slight raise in the plastic (bravo design!), so I can get the size screw I need. For example (may be overkill on the description but what the hell, I am not sleepy at the moment and enjoy sharing info); I have racked my long screws at the back (put them on the Caritool first) because I saw the need for stubbies (so I rack the stubbies last so I can access them off of the Caritool first) but did not end up placing many because the ice was so thin it wouldn't even take stubbies) and then I get into thicker ice that is a little airy and I want a long screw for deep penetration, so I put the two stubbies that were in "next" position up on top so I can access my long screw for the deep penetration I desire...

Hope this helps you understand the great usability of the Caritool. Oh yea, another thing they are great for is racking your tools (pick back) when hiking or rappelling. I think the Caritool is large enough to get two tools on one, which is convenient. When rappelling I put my tools in my left Caritool because I rappel rightie!

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Caritool fits extra "special" with Petzl Harnesses

Petzl Caritool Tool Holder

Petzl Caritool Tool Holder

Rating for this product: 5 October 17, 2008

The Petzl Harnesses have a special little "sleeve" on either side of the harness - between the gear loops, for the Caritool. Nice thinking frogs!

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes

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The one tool that does it all...exceptionally well...especially steep ice!

Petzl Quark IceTool

Petzl Quark IceTool

Rating for this product: 5 October 17, 2008

I love these tools! I used Quarks on hundreds of routes over the years...vertical ice, alpine ice and mixed routes (new route on Denali Light Traveler and first free ascent of the Moonflower Buttress done with Quarks), snowboard descents and mixed (before the Ergo and Nomics). When mixed climbing I add a "ball" to match onto, just above the rubber grip. I do this by taking duct tape, give er' a couple full raps then unroll 2' of tape and while it is still on the roll, twist the sh#t out of it so it is tightly twisted and stuck to itself, then keep wrapping around and repeat as necessary to get the size "ball or match grip rest" you desire then finish it off with a stickier tape and throw some strips of skateboard deck grip tape on there for ultimate holding power! That, along with the stock grip-rest will have you matching your way to the top, whether mixed terrain, steep ice or traversing on easier ground...

The Quark swings better than any ice tool out there. Try to demo all the tools you can and you will see for yourself. The picks penetrate well without shattering the ice. I go with two hammers so as to not risk opening up my face (not that a hammer back into my face if the tool pops, won't open me up, just less so than an adze!) I can use the pick (maybe not quite as efficiently, but worth it for safety) to cut through crap ice or dig a ledge out of the ice. I recommend going leashless, even with the Quarks. Free yourself up. It is the now. You may get more pumped, but that is because you are most likely over-gripping. Relax that grip to just before you slip off and that is how much you need to hold on, not any more! Also, going leashless lets you have less of a cluster fuck by not needing to unclip your clipper leash or pull your hand out of a traditional leash, or worse still, having your tool dangle from your wrist as you are throwing in a screw, clip a draw and get that rope in (all while your heart rate is going through the roof as your leg is doing a sweet Elvis impersonation - yes your leg and not you because you don't control it at this exact moment - maybe you will regain control as soon as you clip in to a good screw)! These tools plunge well, both with and without the grip-rest. The spike is the bomb and bites very well. There are two types of picks to choose from and they are both great!

Bottom line: the best all around (steep ice/mixed/alpine ice etc.) ice ax on the market! If you are going to get one tool that does it all, the Quark is the one.

For more in depth reviews check out my website: www.stephenkoch.com

Helpful Votes: 9 Yes

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Great boot - wider footed folks, read on...

La Sportiva Trango S EVO GTX Mountaineering Boot - Men's

La Sportiva Trango S EVO GTX Mountaineering Boot - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 October 17, 2008

These boots are light and relatively warm. They run a little narrow for my medium-wide foot. I take care of that by bringing them to my local cobbler who throws them in the stretcher overnight and then I am good to go! They are so light that they wear faster than heavier boots. If you want a super durable boot then get something else. But if you want "the" boot for climbing peaks in Patagonia or many other places, you can't do better then this boot.

Helpful Votes: 4 Yes

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Warm and light boot that excels ice climbing

La Sportiva Trango Extreme Evo Light GTX Boot - Men's

La Sportiva Trango Extreme Evo Light GTX Boot - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 October 17, 2008

These boots are warm, light and have great ankle flexibility. They are a bit narrow for my med-wide foot but I deal by having my local cobbler throw them on the stretcher overnight. They climb steep ice and mixed terrain exceptionally well. The rubber sole grips rock like nobodies business. They have held up for two seasons of heavy use and will be getting used again soon!

Helpful Votes: 9 Yes

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LIGHT AND WARM DOUBLE BOOT!

La Sportiva Spantik Mountaineering Boot - Men's

La Sportiva Spantik Mountaineering Boot - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 October 17, 2008

The Spantiks are exceptionally warm, very light and climb technical terrain well. They have enough ankle mobility to climb great on mixed terrain and steep ice. I climbed the Andromeda Strain last March and my feet were warm all day! The inner boot lacing system is different but once I got used to it (2nd time out) I loved it. The inner boot is easy to remove and has rubber on the bottom for walking around. These would be a great boot for Denali type climbs, but I would bring an overboot, just to be safe.

Helpful Votes: 5 Yes

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My to to guiding / backcountry shredding pack

Backcountry Access Stash BC Rider Backpack - 2135cu in

Backcountry Access Stash BC Rider Backpack - 2135cu in

Rating for this product: 4 October 17, 2008

I have had this pack for the past four seasons and it is still holding strong after much use. It is a good size for day trips. The hose inside the shoulder is an excellent idea and it does not freeze unless it is well below zero and I forget to "blow back." Holds a snowboard very securely. Holds skis in A formation and across the back well. Ski loops on side are large enough to accommodate split board when split, which is vital for me...been skinning on split and gets too steep to skin...throw the split snowboard on your back and start busting trail up the waist deep pew, knowing it will be worth it shortly, when you stop fighting gravity and start rippin'! One drawback is that the material against the lower back tends to hold snow when warm. I minimize this by keeping it out of the snow by laying the pack down on its back (outside). Zippers work well and are waterproof.

In short: this pack excels as a single day backcountry snowboard or ski pack with the best placed (in the shoulder) hydration system on the market.

Helpful Votes: 7 Yes

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Great 4 season tent

Marmot Alpinist Tent: 2-Person 4-Season

Marmot Alpinist Tent: 2-Person 4-Season

Rating for this product: 5 October 17, 2008

The Marmot Alpinist tent is a great four season tent. It is light, easy to set up, has a roomy vestibule, plenty of light weight pockets inside, is roomy for two big guys, strong (I have had it with a lot of snow on it and mucho wind and the Alpinist shone (or is it shinded?), good ventilation and the fabric breaths well and doesn't collect too much moisture.

Helpful Votes: 6 Yes

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Strong glove that functions well

Cloudveil Troller XCR Glove

Cloudveil Troller XCR Glove

Rating for this product: 5 October 17, 2008

The CVeil Troller XCR Gloves have worked well for me for many days out. They are durable, warm, comfortable and relatively dexterous. The fabric on the back of the thumb is very soft and dries fast, but I would prefer my "snot wipe" to be on the back of the hand. When very wet I dry them with a boot drier. Also, after several days, I use Nikwax to freshen up the waterproofing on the leather and to soften them.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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TOTALLY CUSTOMIZABLE!

Rome Targa Snowboard Binding

Rome Targa Snowboard Binding

Rating for this product: 5 October 17, 2008

These bindings rock! They are solid for great transmission of body movement to board edge. The customization options on the Targas is amazing and worth taking the time to dial in. It is like BBK...you can "have it your way." I have bumps on my feet from 20 years of riding and was able to get relief by customizing the fit/placement of the buckles and highback. The buckles are like butter. They open easily and lock down securely. Also, the toe straps do an outstanding job of not only securing my foot, but of keeping my boot snugly back in the binding.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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EASY to use...

V.I.O. POV.1 Camera Package

V.I.O. POV.1 Camera Package

Rating for this product: 5 October 17, 2008

The VIO POV1 camera is incredibly easy to use. I took it mountaineering and ice climbing up the Black Ice Couloir a few weeks ago. I had the lens attached to the right side of my climbing helmet with the strap running down my shirt (on the outside of my long underwear but under my other layers), over my harness and into my front pants pocket, where I would turn it on and off with ease. The quality of the video is really good. I am in the process of editing the footage that I shot and will have it up on cloudveil.com soon. You can work as many angles as you have bits of imagination with this camera. I look forward to getting even more creative this winter with snowboarding shots and vertical ice climbing! It is easy to download the footage...just plug the cord in and away you go, right on your computer. No more DV tapes!

Helpful Votes: 3 Yes

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Perfect Bag for Denali

Marmot CWM EQ Sleeping Bag: -40 Degree Down

Marmot CWM EQ Sleeping Bag: -40 Degree Down

Rating for this product: 5 October 17, 2008

I have used this bag on Denali several times. It has kept me warm down to 30 below. Eating a half stick of butter in your hot chocolate before bed helps. Also, when awoken from cold, having a candy bar on hand to munch down is always a good idea and lets me get back to sleep. The zippers are strong and the bag has incredible loft. It cinches around my head very well. I take off my jackets for sleeping and have long underwear and fleece with my puffy jacket over my feet for added warmth. I have used this bag in the Tetons in winter when it has been severely cold outside and I was toasty warm and smiling. It is pretty heavy, but that is the price for warmth! Have a great adventure!

Helpful Votes: 8 Yes

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FASTER AND SAFER SCREW

Petzl Laser Sonic Ice Screw

Petzl Laser Sonic Ice Screw

Rating for this product: 5 October 17, 2008

The Laser Sonic by Petzl goes in smoothly. You can clip your draw and turn the screw while being clipped in. So if you fall, heaven forbid, while placing the screw, which can happen, with this screw there is a chance you will be caught if your screw holds. In good ice your screw doesn't have to be in very far to hold a fall, especially with some rope out. You can also take these screws out WITHOUT unclipping them, so they are clipped into the rope until you clip it into your harness, then unclip it from the rope, eliminating the drop possibility. When placing this screw, once it is established and I know it won't fall out, I grab the swivel with my thumb and forefinger and spin it in. They go in like butter! They can be a bit unruly to rack due to the swiveling clip in point. To limit this unruliness, stabilize the swivel when racking. Happy climbing!

Helpful Votes: 5 Yes

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Solid rack

Yakima Q Towers - set of 4

Yakima Q Towers - set of 4

Rating for this product: 5 October 17, 2008

I have had the Q Towers on my '97 Audi A6 Wagon and love them. They were fairly easy to install and I bought locks for them as well. I have an older Rocket Box and bike rack on there and the Towers has held up well. I sometimes drive very fast and no worries with this system. No damage to the car and a secure fit has me giving the Q Towers a thumbs up!

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Lowrider for Audi Wagon

Yakima Q Towers - set of 4

Yakima Q Towers - set of 4

Rating for this product: 5 October 17, 2008

I wrote a review on the Q Towers thinking they were the Lowriders, which is the correct tower for my 97 Audi Wagon. Sorry for the confusion. I love the Lowriders...they work well, are secure and don't scratch the car.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Great little headlamp

Petzl Zipka Headlamp

Petzl Zipka Headlamp

Rating for this product: 5 October 17, 2008

The Petzl Zipka is a solid headlamp that I have many of. I keep them in my car, drawers in the kitchen, in the garage and in my backpack. My wife carries one around in her purse. I also use one around my wrist when riding my bike at night. If I don't have my rear light, I hold it towards the back so drivers coming up on me can see me. The attachment is brilliant, simple and totally functional. The folks at Petzl obviously put a lot of time and energy into all of their products and it shows through the way the product functions as well as how it looks. Never cheap parts made in China like most of the other headlamps. This light passes the "flop" test...when it is on my head it doesn't flop around. It also works on helmets. The coolest thing about this light is the ease it switches from one size to another...just pull the back! It works well, is simple and easy to use. Turn it on, light comes on, turn it off, light goes off. It shines fairly brightly...plenty enough for hiking at night without moonlight, changing a tire on a dirt road or for finding your car keyhole in a dark parkinglot (where the lamppost inevitably is shining on the other side of the car). One thing about these, and all headlamps, is that they lose power gradually and it is sometimes difficult to realize it until it is too late. Take spare batteries and check power (in dark room to really see how much output you are getting) before heading out.

Bottom line: Easy to use, strong and functional lamp that comes with batteries and lasts a long time.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Best headlamp on the market...addition

Petzl MYO XP Headlamp

Petzl MYO XP Headlamp

Rating for this product: 5 October 17, 2008

Forgot to mention another great feature of this light...it lets you know if the batteries are going through the green/red light that blinks lightly out of the top of the light, by the on/off button. Green means power OK, red means replace. But you can still use it for a while with red light blinking...just be aware that it needs new batteries. Lithium batteries work great in cold but die really fast.

Helpful Votes: 3 Yes

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The Classics

Black Diamond Stopper Set #4-13

Black Diamond Stopper Set #4-13

Rating for this product: 5 October 17, 2008

Stoppers are tried and true. They are always on my rack up to a number 11 or 12. I find the 13 to be heavy and a bit floppy and cams easily cover the size and are as light if not lighter. I rack mine on 2 carabiners...3 - 7 and 8 - 12 for easier placement with less nuts to deal with. I know the 3 is not in this set but I add a couple smaller nuts in to take it down if necessary. If I am going light in the Tetons, I will take a set of BD Stoppers and call it good. Enjoy!

Helpful Votes: 4 Yes

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Black Diamond Eldorado Tent: 2-Person 4-Season

October 13, 2008

Yes, you can fit a large or two medium size packs in the vestibule. Once your bags, pads and cooking gear is out your pack won't be large...

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Impeccable ice and mixed climbing tool!

Petzl Nomic Leashless Ice Climbing Tool

Petzl Nomic Leashless Ice Climbing Tool

Rating for this product: 5 October 10, 2008

I have used these tools for a few seasons now and love them. The one drawback for me, as an alpinist, is that they don't offer a hammer. I solved this by removing the Nomic head and replaced it with a Quark head, which accommodates a hammer. This process was tricky but worked and now I have an even better tool that I can pound pins with. The added weight and slight angle change helped if anything. These tools climb ice very well. I use tethers to prevent droppage. Leashless is the way to free yourself and to be way more efficient. One drawback - no spike on the bottom of the tool, which, so long as I am aware of it, has not been a problem. When mixed climbing the Nomics excel...whether matching on one tool or gripping up high, these tools love every minute of it and when you reach the ice you are NOT bumming from the "bounce you the fuck out of the ice placement you just made because the tools were engineered solely for rock climbing," which some other mixed tools give. Instead, you are laughing your way to the top of the climb...

Enjoy!

Helpful Votes: 5 Yes

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Great all around crampon

Petzl Dart Crampon

Petzl Dart Crampon

Rating for this product: 5 October 10, 2008

These crampons are light and climb steep ice and mixed terrain great! I use them in the mountains too. Just used them for a recent (September 2008) ascent of the Black Ice Couloir in Grand Teton National Park. The closure system takes a little getting used to. I recommend pushing in, towards the boot on the side lock (small metal triangle) when closing the boot. This will limit the torque on that triangle, which I have bent in years past, when I didn't do the suggestion above. If you are not heelhooking and don't mind a little more weight, I recommend the leverwire closure (more traditional). If you want to save weight every time you take a step or kick your crampons in ice, go with the leverlock, as I do. I like the Darts (mono) for mixed climbing and the Dartwins (called Darts and shown above, that have the "twin" front points) for straight ice, or mostly ice. If you are going to get a pair of poons that excel on steep ice and you can take up mountaineering routs, the Darts/Dartwins are a great choice.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Outstanding belay device

Petzl Reverso 3 Belay and Rappel Device

Petzl Reverso 3 Belay and Rappel Device

Rating for this product: 5 October 10, 2008

This is a great belay device for belaying the leader and/or the second. I love belaying the second off the anchor so I can be hands free! What an amazing concept that is available to the masses through the use of the Petzl Reverso 3. There are other devices out there but they don't work as well. The BD ATC Guide is heavier and tends to twist the rope more by having the clip in hole (the one that you clip the device into from the anchor) is turned 90 degrees from how the ropes feed. The Reverso 3 clips in at the same angle that the ropes are fed through the device, causing no twist in the ropes! One thing about using these devices to belay the second from the anchor...Obviously your anchors have to be BOMBER for you to belay off of them, but they better be BOMBER anyway! I use thin cords in the mountains for Alpine and 9.6 mm singles through this device for rock climbing and all are smooth belaying and catching falls. If you are old school and use over 10.5 mm cords, I don't recommend this device. Why are you using such large and heavy cords? The smaller diameter single ropes are strong, and LIGHTER! Get rid of your fat ropes and get a nice 9 mm single and stop carrying all that extra weight around and start climbing easier and harder! Hands free belaying of the second (or third!)on multi-pitch routes is awesome! This device works great for belaying a leader as well. So you can have it to belay the second just in case and not be bummed you are carrying it. Oh yea, this thing rappels way better than the old Reverso. Nice improvement by putting the teeth in there! Way safer!

Helpful Votes: 4 Yes

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Outstanding belay device 2

Petzl Reverso 3 Belay and Rappel Device

Petzl Reverso 3 Belay and Rappel Device

Rating for this product: 5 October 10, 2008

Forgot to mention the Reverso's quick-release loop lets you release tension on a fallen climber by simply putting in a carabiner and torquing the device up. But BEWARE! When you do this make sure you keep your hand on the rope because it is easy to zoom your partner down too far by not retaining control of the rope when you release tension to lower...how's that for a run-on sentence?! Cheers!

Helpful Votes: 2 Yes

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Good all around pole

Life-Link Guide Ultra Light Trekking Poles - 1 Pair

Life-Link Guide Ultra Light Trekking Poles - 1 Pair

Rating for this product: 5 October 10, 2008

I have used this pole for walking as a guide in the Tetons as well as on several expeditions around the world while snowboarding on the Seven Summits. They work well. One trick to longevity is to take them apart to dry after use, otherwise they get a bit sticky and can seize in the closed position, which is a bummer, especially if you are just beginning your long ski on split snowboard back to the parking lot after ripping a run with the poles on the pack. The two sets of baskets (powder and smaller) are really nice. I use them without baskets in the summer time. It is good to give them a good hard twist to help prevent collapsing. For a good all around pole, the LLGUL (long name...) is a great choice.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Great sturdy helmet

Petzl Elios Climbing Helmet - 2011

Petzl Elios Climbing Helmet - 2011

Rating for this product: 5 October 10, 2008

I have used the Elios helmet for several years. I take this helmet on expeditions and while guiding because it can handle being packed less delicately than the Meteor III. Plus all the color options are pretty cool as well. Either way, I always try and pack my helmet inside my pack, as the last thing before the lid goes over or inside the main compartment, with my lunch/food inside so the helmet can protect it. Great all around helmet that can last several seasons of hard climbing. If you want the super bomber helmet that you can drop, sit on, headbutt into the wall, then go with the Petzl Ecrin Roc. For weight savings on those big alpine routes, I suggest the Petzl Meteor III - just be more careful with it and definitely don't sit on it!

Helpful Votes: 5 Yes

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EXCELLENT FUNCTIONAL DOWN JACKET

Cloudveil Down Patrol Jacket - Men's

Cloudveil Down Patrol Jacket - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 October 10, 2008

I used this jacket while riding the "Village" (Jackson Hole) and up on Glory Bowl all last winter. It is very warm, has a great powder skirt (removable), nice hood (removable) that cinches down nicely without a helmet (don't know how it fits with a helmet), relatively long sleeves and fits really well in the body for a very comfortable feel. I like that there are two pockets, an inner and outer, on the left side of the jacket (accessible with right hand) for keeping spare goggles, glasses, phone or anything else you want easy access to. The pit zips work well but I don't use them often. If I am that warm, I have the jacket opened or off and the only time that happens is while hiking or on the Gondola (soon to be TRAM AGAIN!!!). It has good draw strings at the waist to keep the cold and snow out. Good hand warming pockets and yet another pocket (located on the inside right front of jacket (accessed with left hand) that holds a bottle of schnapps very well. One other thing...there is access for a headphone wire to go through from inner pocket to head so you can rock out and be warm at the same time! The Wind Stopper material is very wind proof (hence the name, eh?) and has a really nice hand. I like the clean cut and solid color of the jacket as well. Great for ripping down mountains and wear it right into the Mangy Moose for an apres beer.

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes

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AWESOME "SNOW" PANT / SHELL

Cloudveil Koven Pant - Men's

Cloudveil Koven Pant - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 October 10, 2008

These pants rock for snowboarding, skiing or sledding with your kid in the backyard. They are stretchy, breathe well and are easy to get on and off over boots (if you so desire). The fit is excellent overall. I have a 33" inseam and a 33" waist and Large fits me a little big but it is better than tight and short, that's for sure. I found the suspenders to slip so after I figured out what height I wanted them I taped them so they wouldn't move. My Koven Pants have lasted two seasons of regular and hard use and are still going strong with minimal wear. The gaiter fits well over my snowboard boots and keeps the snow out! Great all around snowboard/ski/snowmobile/climbing pant!

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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I LOVE THESE PANTS

Cloudveil Rayzar Pant - Men's

Cloudveil Rayzar Pant - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 October 10, 2008

Hiking up Glory Bowl or guiding clients up Shadow Peak in Grand Teton National Park on my split snowboard, I am always wearing these pants. They are crazy comfortable, shed snow well, have a great built in gaiter, good pockets, good suspenders and extra protection where you want it. The Schoeller Dynamic fabric is the best softshell fabric on the market. I have used many and this is the best...best hand, wind resistance, water repellancy and strength to weight. Also fairly stretchy. Get these pants while they are on sale! Many companies are going away from Schoeller (Swiss Made) because of the cost of the fabric. Awesome pants that will last most users several years of use. Be comfortable while in the backcountry and using these pants will help!

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes

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Light, great handling and durable

Petzl Dragonfly Climbing Rope - 8.2 mm

Petzl Dragonfly Climbing Rope - 8.2 mm

Rating for this product: 5 October 10, 2008

Just last month I used one of these ropes on the Black Ice Couloir. The climb was a bit "modern" with thin and mixed sections and the rope was perfect, offering security and weight savings so we could move fast. The Valhalla Traverse was really fun with a little new snow to keep it interesting and offer some footing over the frozen kitty litter type material that you have to cross get to the Black Ice. These ropes are light weight and have great handling. The butterfly coil, as an other reviewer already said, really works well, eliminating the need to coil and uncoil your new rope several times to get the kinks out before use. These ropes are showing noticeably less wear than a pair of Beal cords that I had a couple years ago with even fewer pitches on them. Orange and green happen to be a couple of my favorite colors too!

Helpful Votes: 2 Yes

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Best handling and functioning carabiner on the market!

Petzl Spirit Carabiner

Petzl Spirit Carabiner

Rating for this product: 4 October 10, 2008

This has been the loveliest functioning carabiner on the market for over 10 years. The keylock system rocks...no snagging on anything. No other company that has a keylock carabiner does it better than the original Spirit. One drawback is their weight (hence the missing star above). They are heavy compared to many of the newer (especially wire gates) carabiners on the market, so if weight is a concern (for your alpine rack or a hard route that you are trying to free), I recommend some of the light wire gates (check out Trango's, DMM's or Mammuts). If you want the Cadillac of carabiners and don't mind a little extra weight along with your amazing handling, this is the one.

Helpful Votes: 5 Yes

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Super light and simple pack

GoLite Pinnacle Pack - 4500 cu in

GoLite Pinnacle Pack - 4500 cu in

Rating for this product: 5 October 10, 2008

This pack is great for carrying up to about 40 pounds. Over that I want more support. But this thing is LIGHT! I have used it for a great pack rafting trip down the Colorado River. We put in at Spanish Bottom after hiking from Elephant Hill, carrying our boats, life jacket, paddle, sleeping bag, pad, cloths, helmet, stove, pot, food and other odds and ends in and on (paddle) this pack. It carried well and does not add 5 to 10 pounds to the load like most other packs. It is simple but has good necessities...two compression straps on either side that are long enough to hold a tent or pad (or paddles) on the outside of the pack, pockets to catch poles or tent on outside of pack, large water-proof zipper pocket that is easy to access, even when full, by being on the back middle of the pack. After unloading all the gear and going for a hike, it was easy to compress the straps and head out with this light weight pack. It has been through some serious use and is still holding up well. I have also used this pack guiding in the Tetons and climbing the Black Ice Couloir recently. Light is truly right and this pack proves it.

Helpful Votes: 5 Yes

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This light has saved my ass

Petzl e+LITE Emergency Headlamp

Petzl e+LITE Emergency Headlamp

Rating for this product: 5 October 10, 2008

I keep an e+Light clipped to the back of my harness, along with a Tibloc, short prussic cord and a knife. I consider these things essential to bring on every climb. I had a client not bring their headlamp on a climb recently and I said, "no worries" as I unpacked my pack to get to my harness with the e+Lite attached. The light is surprisingly bright for its size, has several settings, including a blinking setting. It obviously doesn't put out like the MYO-XP but it is plenty functional to get you where you need to go through the dark in a pinch. I like its protective case (mine is all scratched up from chimneys and rock climbing but is still functional and water proof). Good to have in your pack as an extra light when backpacking or even in the glovebox of your car for that "just in case" moment.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Great harness and not just for women!

Petzl Selena Harness - Women's

Petzl Selena Harness - Women's

Rating for this product: 5 October 10, 2008

I use a Selena in Large because the Sama in Large is slightly too large in the waist for me and the Medium Sama is too small in the legs for me. I am not a chicken legged dude, as many sport climbers are (not that I often don't wish for that, especially when I am flaming out and I am getting sloppy with my feet). This harness is extremely comfortable, light and functional...the complete package. I use it ice climbing as well since I am able to get boots with crampons through the leg loops. That is the test if you want to use it for ice climbing. Be well.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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The classic and still top of the line fingerboard

Metolius Simulator CNC Training Board

Metolius Simulator CNC Training Board

Rating for this product: 5 October 10, 2008

I have had a Metolius Simulator fingerboard for many years and believe it to be the best fingerboard on the market. The variety of holds is incredible, from the 3 big jugs which offer you wide and narrow hanging/pulling options from them to the many 3, 2 and mono pockets, to slopers and crimpers...this board has it all. It is very grippy and easy to hang. I put some "I" bolts that can accommodate carabiners on the outside of the board so I can clip in bungy cords at different lengths to reduce the load when hanging and pulling. This is a great way to work into full body weight pull-ups and hanging on the smaller holds.

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes

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GREAT BIKE SHOE

Sidi Genius 5 Bike Shoe - Men's

Sidi Genius 5 Bike Shoe - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 October 10, 2008

These shoes rock for several reasons. They are Italian made and show it with fine quality and finish. They fit my slightly wide foot well and breathe very well, even on hot summer rides. They have held up well and show little wear after years of use. The carbon sole is stiff as all get up and really transfers well the energy of my pedaling into the forward and upward motion of the bike. This is one of the coolest aspects of road biking - the power transfer from me so directly to the bike and having stiff shoes bring it all together and help you fly!

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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MY GO TO WINTER LAYER

Icebreaker BodyFit 260 Tech Top - Long-Sleeve - Men's

Icebreaker BodyFit 260 Tech Top - Long-Sleeve - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 October 10, 2008

I absolutely love my Icebreaker BodyFit 260 top. It is warm for the weight, very stretchy and best of all - DOES NOT COLLECT ODOR, even after multi-day use in Patagonia, where I was sweating a lot! The arms are fairly long and I like the thumb holders, which when not in use are out of the way. My only wish for this top, as with most tops - because of my long torso, is for longer torso length. My torso is crazy long though...I am 6'2" and my pant inseam is 33"! So for most folks it will be plenty long enough. I have used this shirt steadily in winter and when on expeditions for the past 3 years and it is still going strong! The only place it is showing wear is around the cuffs, which is no surprise as I have kept the thumbs in to offer protection to the back of my hands while crack climbing on the sharp granite of Cerro Torre during the FA of the complete SE Ridge. I am a huge fan of Icereaker and especially this piece.

Helpful Votes: 6 Yes

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Cloudveil Koven Pant - Men's

October 9, 2008

I don't think you can go wrong with the Koven pant if you are looking for a great, all around water proof / breathable / stretchy shell. The Koven is lighter and stretchier than Gore-Tex.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Best Wide Board On The Market

Rome Flag Snowboard - Wide

Rome Flag Snowboard - Wide

Rating for this product: 5 October 3, 2008

The Rome Flag snowboard is truly an amazing ride. It is snappy and responsive and handles crud and funk like no other wide board I have ridden. Plenty of surface to float in the powder and can handle the speed of straight lining in variable conditions. This is my go to board for every day riding, resort or BC.

Helpful Votes: 3 Yes

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Best headlamp on the market...

Petzl MYO XP Headlamp

Petzl MYO XP Headlamp

Rating for this product: 5 September 26, 2008

This headlamp rocks! It is bright, efficient, easy to use, doesn't flop around on your head (as many lamps do...check this out when buying by putting the lamp you are considering for purchase and jump up and down a bit as in fast hiking or running...if it bounces, bounce it right back on the shelf and then get the MYO-XP or other Petzl lamps), has three settings that are easy to use by simply pushing the button...once for brightest, twice for a bit less light and three times for lowest light setting...and four times for flashing (which I haven't needed to use). Flip the diffuser down and you get diffused light. The diffuser also acts as a protector, so I keep it down when packing the lamp. Easy adjustments and I have the additional head strap (included) attached for additional security and stability of the lamp on my head. Also fits well on helmets and again, doesn't flop around (check this out on the helmet too as the bouncing effect is intensified on helmets. I always turn one battery around when I am not using (during the day) so as not to have the lamp accidentally turned on, which drains the battery. This hasn't happened often because you can block the "on" button by easily turning the lamp upward, but once was enough and this lamp is easy as pie to open up to access the 3 AA batteries, which seem to last an eternity (even with that being the case, I always have spare freshies in my pack).

One last but important feature of the MYO-XP is that it has a "blast" button that gives you huge light for several seconds (while the button is pressed) and this is badass for route finding or animal spotting!

Buy this headlamp and you will be stoked!

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Best headlamp on the market...

Petzl MYO XP Headlamp

Petzl MYO XP Headlamp

Rating for this product: 5 September 26, 2008

This headlamp rocks! It is bright, efficient, easy to use, doesn't flop around on your head (as many lamps do...check this out when buying by putting the lamp you are considering for purchase and jump up and down a bit as in fast hiking or running...if it bounces, bounce it right back on the shelf and then get the MYO-XP or other Petzl lamps), has three settings that are easy to use by simply pushing the button...once for brightest, twice for a bit less light and three times for lowest light setting...and four times for flashing (which I haven't needed to use). Flip the diffuser down and you get diffused light. The diffuser also acts as a protector, so I keep it down when packing the lamp. Easy adjustments and I have the additional head strap (included) attached for additional security and stability of the lamp on my head. Also fits well on helmets and again, doesn't flop around (check this out on the helmet too as the bouncing effect is intensified on helmets. I always turn one battery around when I am not using (during the day) so as not to have the lamp accidentally turned on, which drains the battery. This hasn't happened often because you can block the "on" button by easily turning the lamp upward, but once was enough and this lamp is easy as pie to open up to access the 3 AA batteries, which seem to last an eternity (even with that being the case, I always have spare freshies in my pack).

One last but important feature of the MYO-XP is that it has a "blast" button that gives you huge light for several seconds (while the button is pressed) and this is badass for route finding or animal spotting!

Buy this headlamp and you will be stoked!

Helpful Votes: 8 Yes

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Petzl MYO XP Headlamp

September 23, 2008

Yes, the head strap is included with the MYO-XP headlamp by Petzl.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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