You would be better served in getting a cheap compression sack - it will pack down much smaller. Every marmot jacket I got had a stuff sack - but almost completely worthless as they don't really pack it down all that small.

Yes - but only a little in my experience. Totally acceptable amount for price paid.

Medium

I use these with Asolo Sasslongs - which are not super bulky but big enough - and they have plenty of room to spare. I would say yes - as I used to have a pair of Limmer's.

SO - BD makes a few strap-on models. This pair is ALUMINUM - meaning while they are lighter weight, they will dull and wear rapidly if used on anything other than snow and have limited performance on steep ice. ABS - needed whenever you will be traveling on snow - they keep the snow from balling up and clumping under the 'pon.

If you plan on using them as an ALL AROUND 'pon - go with a steel / stainless variation and ensure they have ABS. Depends on the size of the ski boot - BD does make ones with oversize straps for larger boots.

I have this bivy and too many different bag combo's - if your looking for extra protection, if you can spend your $ on a bag with moisture resistance or treat your current bag. For a vapor / moisture barrier, an extra pound is lots to carry speaking from experience.

If your sleeping in a tent and I assume you have a properly rated bag yet are concerned with MOISTURE during winter outings, rethink how you are setting up your tent to get MORE ventilation / airflow to avoid moisture issues. That said, all other considerations aside, yes, this bivy will help keep your bag dry but with significant weight and volume penalties that gotten around with a little extra care and buying a better winter bag.

**If you suffer from excess frost/moisture and if your looking at this as a solution to avoid needing to increase the amount of ventilation in your tent, it is going to deliver lackluster results at best.

Both types are strong and sturdy - check manufacturer specs rating specific to the biner your looking at/ Wire gates imho are a little easier to clip and you save on weight - if you can, try a friend's before buying.

Def medium - a small might even do you unless you want a little extra room.

Very subjective as folks core temps regulate differently, but I have been comfy with mine down to 5 with nothing more than a light tee and the hood up. Keep in mind - good gloves, pants, boots, etc. will affect greatly how warm you stay.

No - it is wearable as ling as you don't mind looking like the marshmallow man! - No where near as shiny as some of the Rab jackets - I think they they have pertex shell. And this is not one of the stretch spandex like down jackets - definitely more classical in construction.

0.3 micron

Not in a traditional pocket - but it does stay pretty much stay out of the way when flipped back. Its a full hooded jacket - so the hood is not really meant to stow too far away - if your doing something active with it VS using as a belay jacket, it may be annoying to you at times.

http://www.backcountry.com/nikwax-down-wash - AND follow the tag on the specific garment for instructions on how the manufacturer recommends it be laundered. Lay flat to dry - don't wring it or place in dryer, or hang.

Typo - check the manufacturer's website for weight.

Yes

Comparable - I bought a hooded like version and it is right on par with my das parka - not quality wise though, but for the price, VERY nice jacket.

Yes, mine did.

Fit is roomy - as they are meant to be worn over layers. They are different than the MH pants - no pockets and a different, more compressible insulation. Warmth wise, maybe a little warmer.

You would be better off with a pair of MSR's - larger binding and removable tails. EVO Ascent model is a good value. OR - buy yourself a new holiday present - a split board! :-)

Western Mountaineering or Feathered Friends for the win!

200 fleece but has a wind blocking material so it will be a little warmer than just a plain 200 fleece.

http://www.backcountry.com/mammut-alagna-softshell-jacket-mens

46-49" chest
17.5-18" neck
36-37" sleeve

Nice comparison - but it depends on usage and understanding what features in an axe work best for its intended usage.

They are NOT - however, they are full grain leather which works VERY well with waterproofer / sealer. In most cases, if these boots fit nice and if you like the styling, the water resistance you will gain with a treatment will do you fine.

Typically a GORTEX liner is what makes a boot more waterproof but even with that, they require treatment to prevent the shell layer from sucking up too much water. People choosing a boot with a gortex give up some breathability, the boot also typically weights more - they gain a boot that can handle being subjected to more puddles and less vigilant treating of fabric to stay waterproof.

These bags are not meant to have a bunch of room to move around in. If he is a claustrophobic sleeper, you may want to consider a squared off Big Agnes bag (requires a sleeping mat 2.5 thick as well).

If they have not changed the zipper since the one I saw, yes. HOWEVER, look at the weight on this thing. You might be better off with another cat's meow and a bag liner / fleece to bring the rating up a little for your "partner". Also, remember you need a right & left zip.

It is a little smaller - but take a look at the sizing chart that details that perfectly. Depends on brand in US - I wear medium and some I float in and some I need large.

Vouched - you can now take off the MKs and wash them! :-)

7.5 for car camping, the 7 for VERY cold conditions when carrying in your pack. If you do most of your camping above zero, consider the neoair as it weighs much less.

This is a totally different type of jacket as it has no insulation other than the fabric backing the membrane which is not very substantial - thus its up to you to layer under it for what you will encounter. The major advantage to having a clothing system VS just a jacket is versatility and the ability to shed / add layers when you warm up / cool down, weight saving, and the ability to dry a jacket out quicker.

If your doing something active with a next to skin layer and a 100 weight fleece, your looking at comfortable 20's. - anything lower your probably going to want a thicker next to skin and 200 weight or equal insulation layer. You can of course go lighter for being on the move and layer up with a puffy down or synthetic jack when stopped.

The binding on this snowshoe is smaller to provide for a more dialed in and technical fit. Go with something like the MSR EVO (ascent if your in the mountains). Their binding will adapt to a wider variety of non technical footwear and will pack down smaller when not in use - ie: removable tails.

http://www.backcountry.com/dynafit-tlt-5-mountain-tf-x-alpine-touring-boot?CMP_SKU=DNF0048&MER=0406&CMP_ID=GAN_GPLA&mr:trackingCode=3AC46EBE-5E1A-E011-AD27-0019B9C043EB&mr:referralID=NA&origin=pla&mr:adType=pla

There are such a wide variety of boots that it is hard to comment - they can fit some boots, need extender bars for others, and some are just out of the question (which is why they sell the set specifically designed for ski boots).

I would ask the question more along the lines though is why are you looking at crampons that are geared more towards vertical ice as opposed to something that is geared more towards ski or general mountaineering? If you are using on approaches to ski - you want something with front points that are more broad and may want to consider an aluminum crampon depending on your needs (if only using to cross where there is little rock) as they are much lighter. If you are looking for a do everything crampon, check out the new Petzl line as they have a system now with straps and bails.

There is a size chart, not sure if you saw - but if your wearing MH which runs a little large, your prob. going to want the double xl in this.

The Cosmic? Going to be a littler heavier and warmer.

I have both - they are two different boots. This one has less edging capability and more cushion alas a heavier boot. The Salewa is a little stiffer and offers less cushion & the ability to really tighten them in for more of a fit. I found the Asolo to be a bit warmer, especially when wet.

Only 1.

Quite a bit lighter weight - will be around as warm as the better quality down. If your using where weight is a concern and you will only be wearing intermittently, definite advantages over the MH jacket. If your looking for more of a use all the time jacket / utility / not concerned with weight and how it packs as much - go with MH.

Like a backpack with a frame? - No

backcountry.com of course! Search for bladders.

yes

Rough 7 or so - and it depends, you can always cook and then move it along if the fish is pretty big. Heat transfer is great.

The definitely have to be collapsed to ski down. Matter of choice - see bindings - you may not have the same compatibility.

They are not indestructible, nor are they flimsy. They can be repaired. You can always opt to use a pair of gaiters (might not be a bad idea in snow anyway).

Small with no room for layers, medium with room for layers. Medium will be a little loose.

BC has unlimited lifetime guarantee - so, yes.

Depends on what your doing - there is no "prefect" shell for everything.

Not very breathable - they are a goretex leather boot so they are going to run like just about any other boot like this, a little on the warm side. The trick is the sock system you use with them IF you need such a heavy boot - try liners with a GOOD quality wicking sock.

If you don't mind something a little more lite weight, check out the Salewa offerings. The come in goretex and tend to be a whole lot more breathable - but you give us the extra support of leather and the material used to build these boots tends to absorb more water than full grain leather even with treatment, so if you do lots in freezing conditions, you may find yourself with cool feet.

I also have a pair of the Alp Trainers - imho they are in line with the asolo however lack the different types footbeds that Asolo offers to accommodate different foot types. I also noticed that the Asolo has a little more room in the toe box which comes in handy especially if you will be using during colder weather as it gives a little more room for your sock to do its job (insulate).

The shank is a little stiffer and they are a slightly heavier boot due to the way the sole is constructed. Really depends on foot type - check out the Asolo website to better understand the different technologies and how they support different foot types.

The flame has more impact absorbing technology than the fugitive - both are solid choices with differences in the technology of how the boot is built. Take a look at the Asolo website to understand what each technology means so you can choose a boot for what type of foot you have.

You can use a strap on crampon for light duty use - they hold quite well to my pair. These boots do not have welts front or rear welts so they must attach with straps front and back.

They are fine for crossing a little ice / snow but anything that requires much front pointing, you are going to want to go with a stiffer boot meant for mountaineering as others have noted. If you are just after a boot to hike Adirondack / Whites / etc. conditions and use a crampon for the ice encountered on the trail, this will do you fine.

The conduit SL would be bomber for your needs. I would go with a bit more conservative rating since you will be in a hammock and I am guessing not have a pad - the extra rating will help out when you compress the insulation on the bottom in the hammock.

Rainfly is almost always the only covering - and you would not want it to be any other way due to condensation.

Weight, cost, and performance

Very small - and about 1/2 way. You will probably find it more comfy however to NOT store your gear there as the top is where it is designed to give you breathing space - you may not feel as comfy if your face is closer to the sac since there is gear taking up the top.

I just bought one - almost positive it is the newest one out - no fleece lining. Cold zippers! lol

It is sadly not - however they are still a great boot for what they are. You may wish to try to get your current pair repaired - find a good cobbler. Another reviewer of these recommended one.

With the proper fit (not too tight but snug enough to be fit for technical use) and a good quality wool or wool synthetic blend sock, you will have no problem with these in 20 deg temps.

True fit - MH tends to size things right on in my opinion.

None of my paclite jackets are noisy but they are no where near as quiet as a softshell. I would say this is definitely quieter than my pro-shell though.

A bit longer - the syncro is cut pretty high for use with a harness. Syncro has wrist straps or collars to keep snow out. All other aspects are pretty close - my vote is for the MH Synchro.

If the boot has pressure points, the thermo-molding may help - no guarantees. If your questioning if they are too small - tight even with your socks on, I would go with the larger size and if its a hair to big, cut a piece of a foot bed molding out to take up the space to eliminate wobble.

The boot needs to fit snug but not tight as it will not only be un-comfy, but cold.

The nepals with the adjustable tongue and lace locks are hard to beat - I probably would have tried a different foot bed to get a better fit as they are the standard. Also try experimenting with few different sock combo's - care not to go too tight, like a climbing shoe, as you need a little but of dead air space to stay warm.

I have only tried these on experiencing the same as to what you describe - they felt a little more narrow than the nepals.

I would stick with a trusted 8000 by Marmot or your favorite Western Mountaineering jacket if your doing a big mountain - if your asking and you will only see occasional -40 degrees like on the coldest days, this jacket with a few other layers will do ok. The others are overkill for most of the lower 48 in my opinion.

All down jackets like this - hood, etc. are going to be downright too hot in temps +30.

You need a full pad on all big ag bags - otherwise, you will be sleeping with your feet unprotected and when its gets chilly out, not only will your feet be cold, but so will the rest of you as there will be extra room and no "draft collar" to keep all the cold from the ground out of the rest of your bag. These bags have no insulation on the bottom. If weight is a consideration, look at the new thermarest pad.

The SL is the newer model with improved baffles to keep the down from bunching up.

Smaller the biner, the more difficult it is to clip - imho, slightly but slightly counts. Practice with a few smaller ones and see how you like them - nothing wrong with mixing up your rack.

Yes

Nice dual purpose pack - this one even has the sleeve to use with a hydration bladder which is very nice for longer bike rides. I have a few packs - the only ones I find annoying for on the mountain or cross bike is ones that have too much of a top behind the tops of the shoulder straps that obstruct me from leaning my head back or ones that are too bulky or rigid.

No fleece liner - not sure how it compares though. Very light - nice jacket. The only item that is a little annoying is that the metal zippers on the inside are not protected and are cold on your arms if you don't have a shirt with long sleeves on.

The Mammut Softshell does not have a fleece lining. http://www.backcountry.com/mammut-ultimate-hooded-softshell-jacket-mens-mam0231

Technically comparable - I found the MH pants, which I have and like, to have a larger waist than the OR Furio's. If I could do it over again, I would go with the OR pants as its a pain dealing with a larger than needed waist.

I have been looking for 4E width, or 4x as wide as a normal boot, hiking shoes for my father - while Vasque makes a wider shoe, and they do make a simple 1x wide variation, they do not make a 4x. I have only seen these in Sketchers or a hand made leather variety.

My experience, they are slightly wider than average. I never find myself needing to size up with Saloman where other shoes I typically need to.

It depends on your definition of a "large load". 40-45 lbs or so - somewhat comfortable. If you need something that is a rather large pack your going to sacrifice some comfort for the technical features and the ability to strip the pack down for a summit push. This pack is a good compromise between something very minimalist and overkill.

It does not have a shovel holder but there is plenty of room outside the pack to attach that to. You can take the lid off and compress the sac for play time and the waist belt does tuck around the pack nicely if you have a need to get it out of your way.

Depends on activity level and base layers, but generally a 30-40 degrees with moderate activity level. This jacket is light on insulation thus a true soft shell to be used within a layering system.

Yes, snow baskets can be used.

I am about the same size and struggle with this all the time with MH's sizing as their large is too large and their medium just a tad too small for layers - I usually go with the large to give myself a "little extra" room for layers and mobility. The medium fits but it tends to be athletic - while I like the look better, its less functional - restricts movement some and tends to compress insulation more.

I had a pair like these a few years ago - they did stretch some but it was not alarming at the rate in which they did. I have found TNF to size a littler generous compared to most European competitors.

Length of shaft depends on your height - the steeper terrain you go, generally, the shorter the axe you use.

An easy way to measure for an axe is to hold it while standing relaxed. The spike at the bottom should barely touch the ground when you stand fully upright with your arms at your sides.

Positive clearance picks offer a bit better performance for ice - ie: your bent shaft and pick affect this. The pic is the older generation of Grivel's axe - this axe should come with the current slider.

The TPS 520 is going to be a heavier boot with less technology advances - simply put. Both would be good for backpacking - and it depends more on preference than it does load to a large degree. Both are heavy backpacking boots. The 520, along with it's weight, has a slightly deeper lugged sole.

Old school thought is that backpacks have to be heavy and you need a heavy boot for support - been down that road. I can speak from experience I like to carry no more than a 45 lb pack and even over the roughest terrain for longer distances, I like a boot that weights less - every step you have to take expends less energy with a boot / gear that weights less - light is right. That said, some people still prefer a traditional boot (I have a pair of 520's - they are bomber) and some people prefer a boot that incorporates more technology ie: the 535 (they are going to provide support with a little less weight and have a slightly different feel).

If I were to make a recommendation, if you don't already know why you WANT the 520's, go with the 200's.

A friend has one and it came with a little tether loop - the tether did attach to a small loop you could hang it from. Its a slick little light - the top can be removed for more of a directional light which was handy.

These are fleece pants - in my experience there are better choices for something highly aerobic like figure skating, that is unless she will be taking them off when she skates - uses them only for when she is sitting and cold, they would be great.

If she is using them for skating, IE: aerobic, I would look a little more towards something like merino wool or Patagonia's capilene.

I tried these on but went with the Nepals for the simple fact that my foot is a little wider and the Nepals had a better fit. The toe box on these boots seemed to be roomier than others I tried on. You can always alter the fit if you like these boots with a replacement foot bed and size the boot up a little.

These can be used on approach hikes - they are a stiff boot but if my memory serves me right, they have a rocker sole which helps out quite a bit.

I would think a more accurate weigh in / opinion would could only be had with knowing what else you plan to use them for - if anything. They will do the job for Rainier.

These will not accept step in type crampon - my recommendation if you don't go with a boot with a front welt is a Black Diamond Sabertooth crampon w/ a hybrid binding. http://www.backcountry.com/black-diamond-sabretooth-clip-crampons

Yes - Grivel offers a long bar and a long flex bar, both of which are longer than an standard bar.

Yes - I have used with both a heavy mountaineering and a ski boot.

TNF does not list options for tall on their website - never saw tall in TNF either. That said, if you want this jacket it is a bit more generously sized than a Mountain Hardwear which tends to be a bit shorter hence living up to it's namesake of a jacket. Unless your like 6'4, your probably good with this as a jacket - not wearing it longer like a parka.

I have a pair - moderate support. They do not have a super high arch which I like.

Your not going to have a ton of room in it but it won't be tight - if you have too much room or too little room, you loose the rating of the bag (too tight compresses and too loose is too much air space). If your a cold sleeper and wear several layers or wear leather boots (or boots without removable liners) and will be sleeping in freezing conditions, you will want a bigger bag so you can put your boots in at the bottom to keep them from freezing.

It will keep you dry in a cloud burst and breathes better than a jacket that has a Gore-Tex liner and costs less - I would stop short of recommending for multiple days of heavy rain or a project that is super committing - go with the real thing for that - but for occasional rain use, great jacket / value.

Lowa's, while I don't have this model, tend to run a littler wider than other European boots - European boots almost always are smaller than American boots. The toe boxes are larger than most in my experience as well.