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joomington2240041

Climber

joomington2240041: #426 of 167,331 Top 500 Gear Guru More Information

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12 Questions:

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18 Answers:

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The North Face Point Five Jacket - Men's

November 23, 2011

I wear a medium in most regular TNF stuff and a large in most of their summit series gear (like the upcoming Alpine Project Windstopper), and the medium Point Five Jacket is just right on me. Maybe if I were trying to get a Nuptse jacket under it I would want a large, but it fits nicely over a Thunder jacket and a baselayer, which is the most insulation I would normally wear under it. If you needed more warmth during stops you'd throw a big belay parka over the whole lot.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Arc'teryx Beta FL Jacket - Men's

November 20, 2011

I find with Arc'teryx I can often wear an M in their "athletic cut" shells whereas I normally need an L in their softshells and other jackets.

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La Sportiva Trango Extreme Evo Light GTX Boot - Men's

November 14, 2011

The Nepal Evo Gtx are a fully rigid mountaineering boot even more so than these. They are warmer and just as stiff as these, with stiffer uppers and more ankle support, but heavier. They are more of an all-around boot, it's true, but that just means they'll be great for everything whereas these might not be enough for some conditions. These are lighter and therefore more nimble for vertical stuff, but the Nepals will handle long approaches much better and still be great for steep stuff. If you want an all-round boot the consensus is clear: get the Nepal Evo Gtx.

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes

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Arc'teryx Solo Insulated Jacket - Men's

November 6, 2011

I'm 6'4, 185, 41 inch chest, is there any size of this jacket that will fit me properly? It seems that the medium will be too short and the large will be too baggy.

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Arc'teryx Epsilon SV Fleece Hooded Jacket - Men's

October 31, 2011

The Gamma is more breathable? Haven't tried either so can't comment but if that's true it's a big error on Arc's part. This is a classified as a hardfleece which are meant to be more breathable but less protective than softshells. The Gamma LT might breathe better than this but this is definitely *meant* to be more breathable than the Gamma MX, which is *meant* to be a fully featured, protective mountain softshell.

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Arc'teryx Atom SV Insulated Hoody - Men's

October 27, 2011

Actually, the SV has 40 grams per square meter more Coreloft. The amount of insulation in each jacket depends on the size obviously.

Also, Paul was talking about the colour of the lining not the colour of the exteriors, and he's spot on.

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Rab Latok Alpine Jacket - Men's

October 27, 2011

Neoshell is more breathable than eVent but being brand new is untested whereas eVent is now tried and true. That said every review I've read has been very positive. Be careful if buying a Neoshell jacket however because a lot of manufacturers are using a fleece-lined version, and for some reason trying to market it as a "waterproof softshell". That's fine for cold weather and most mountaineering I suppose but not great for warmer weather when you're getting really active. As far as I know only Rab and Westcomb are making unlined Neoshell jackets, and 66 North is bringing one out soon.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Arc'teryx Phase SV Zip-Neck Top - Men's

October 25, 2011

How warm is the Phase SV fabric compared with the Power Stretch fabric as used on the Rho AR?

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Arc'teryx Atom LT Insulated Pullover - Men's

October 24, 2011

The description has a lot of mistakes. For example, this is 283 grams in Medium not 375 -- that's for the hoody.

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Arc'teryx Gamma MX Hooded Softshell Jacket - Men's

October 13, 2011

What's the fit on this like? I'm between an M and L in chest size (41) but I'm worried that an M will be too tight in the shoulders/chest and an L will be too baggy in the waist.

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Marmot Zion Jacket - Men's

October 6, 2011

NeoShell isn't 98% windproof, it's more like 99.8% windproof. The fabric is rated at 2 CFM, which is a stupid measurement system but it's apparently 4 times as much as eVent, so 4 times more air permeable, but not enough to create windchill in blustery conditions. This is what I've read anyway, I haven't actually tried NeoShell yet (soon though).

As far as waterproof-ness goes, it's rated to 10,000mm water column hydrostatic head, which is a fairly sensible standard. It mean the material will not leak under the pressure of 10 metres of water, which is quite a bit. Not as much as Gore-tex or eVent but Polartec say it's more than enough to keep you dry and I tend to agree. As a comparison most "bombproof" tent floors and flies (i.e. bibler bomb shelter) are rated to no more than 10,000mm as well.

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes

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La Sportiva Nepal EVO GTX Mountaineering Boot - Men's

September 17, 2011

The new Batura is lighter than the Nepal, so the difference is clearly not simply more/less insulation. According to the La Sportiva website the Batura has a fully synthetic upper whereas the Nepal is leather. The sole units seem to be the same. You can look for yourself here: http://www.sportiva.com/products/footwear/mountain

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes

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Arc'teryx Phase AR Zip Neck Top - Long-Sleeve - Men's

September 14, 2011

I'm 6'4, 180, 41 chest, trying to decide between M and L. I want to use this as a snug base-layer but don't want it to be too short in the body or arms.

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Great material

Helly Hansen Odin Mountain Jacket - Men's

Helly Hansen Odin Mountain Jacket - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 September 6, 2011

The HellyTech Pro material on this jacket is just awesome! It's soft and light yet feels very tough and best of all it's properly stretchy. It feels so much nicer than the traditional crinkly, rustly nylon shells of Gore-Tex and eVent jackets. The jacket also has some nice features like RECCO, a powder skirt, shoulder padding/reinforcement and a zip-in attachment skirt for turning an Odin Mountain jacket and a pair of Odin Mountain Pants into a super Odin full body suit. It also features a super slick YKK Aquaseal non-laminated waterproof centre zip.

I'm still not quite sure what membrane tech is in this thing but waterproofness and breathability seem at least as good as Gore-Tex, and this thing stretches and moves better than any Gore-Tex I've ever tried, even Arc'teryx jackets. The cut is not quite as precise as an Arcteryx shell, nor is the build quality quite as good, but I would take this jacket over any Gore-Tex shell by Arcteryx or anyone else.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Arc'teryx Solo Insulated Jacket - Men's

September 3, 2011

Can anyone in the know comment on the warmth of this vs. the Atom SV? It would seem that 75g ThermaTek should be less warm than 100g of Coreloft but is it in practice?

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Arc'teryx Gamma MX Hooded Softshell Jacket - Men's

September 3, 2011

What's the fit on this like compared with the Gamma LT? I've tried the LT and find the fit quite odd. Does this have a snugger fit, especially around the waist?

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Black Diamond Vista 3-Person 3-Season Tent

September 1, 2011

I'm considering getting the Vista for mostly spacious 2-person hiking/camping but with the option of bringing a 3rd person along. I don't think it's too heavy for two people to hike with and all that extra space would be awesome!

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Awesome SG

Black Diamond VaporLock Screwgate Carabiner

Black Diamond VaporLock Screwgate Carabiner

Rating for this product: 5 August 27, 2011

This would be the perfect racking biner if it was available in a non-locking version. As it is it's probably the best multi-purpose locking biner around - HMS safe and crazy light. Compact but not stupidly small with a large opening. I just wish they made it with a non-locking gate.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Almost perfect.

Mountain Hardwear Hydra Glove

Mountain Hardwear Hydra Glove

Rating for this product: 4 August 19, 2011

Took a pair of these ice and mixed climbing for four days in temps hovering around 0C. Dexterity wise they are excellent, and the OutDry membrane seems awesome, didn't notice any moisture from sweat or leakage. One thing which has been commented on is the leather palm, Jon Webb has said that the leather comes treated but as with others I definitely found my leather wetting out fairly easily. I imagine that treated them with a leather waterproofing wax or gel would prevent this, but as it was I found my hands getting cold occasionally from the wetted leather.

These are definitely not the warmest gloves around but for the alpine climbing for which they are designed they are great: never had to remove them to fiddle with gear or ropes. One thing that disappointed me a bit was the fact that the fleecy inner layer is not bonded to the outer layers so when taking them off with sweaty hands I sometimes found myself pulling the fingers out a bit, which made them slightly fiddly to get back on again. I'm not sure if this is intentional or not, but I think it's be nice if all 3 layers were bonded together to maximise dexterity and ease of use.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Scarpa Mont Blanc GTX Boot - Men's

August 15, 2011

I wear between 46 and 47 in Scarpas, probably 47s in these, and I take 13s in Salomons. So yeah, try a 45.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

Sold Out

Great rope.

Beal Booster III 9.7mm Single Rope

Beal Booster III 9.7mm Single Rope

Rating for this product: 5 August 15, 2011

Been using the Booster for a couple of years now and I love it. Easy handling, relatively light, high number of falls, low impact and smooth running. Great for trad, great for sport, even used it on ice. Grab one!

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Black Diamond Vista 3-Person 3-Season Tent

August 3, 2011

I'm not asking Backcountry per se, I'm asking anyone who happens to read my question and has a helpful answer to provide.

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Black Diamond Vista 3-Person 3-Season Tent

August 3, 2011

Only a one-year warranty when Marmot, Big Agnes and others offer lifetime? What's with that?

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Big Agnes Copper Spur UL3 Ultra Light Tent: 3-Person 3-Season

August 2, 2011

I'm a little concerned about the relatively low waterproof rating on the floor of this tent. Has anyone had any issues with seepage during very wet weather?

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Arc'teryx Atom SV Insulated Hoody - Men's

July 22, 2011

Thanks for your reply Dane, I find your comments and blog most helpful =D

It seems weird to me that Arcteryx call the face fabric of the SV "Gossamera" and the face fabric of the LT "Luminara" if they are the same same fabric. But I believe you that they are the same.

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Arc'teryx Atom LT Insulated Jacket - Men's

July 10, 2011

Anyone know if the Atom LT and SV are cut to layer over each other? Like if I bought large in both would they work worn together, or should I go a size up on the SV?

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Arc'teryx Atom SV Insulated Hoody - Men's

July 9, 2011

What's the face fabric on the SV like compared to the LT? Is it lighter? Heavier? Tougher?

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Arc'teryx Atom LT Hooded Insulated Jacket - Men's

July 9, 2011

Sorry Mads and Rev, you are quite right. I was getting confused between the Micro and Nano Puffs. The Micro Puff doesn't seem to appear on the Patagonia website anymore. Also am I right in assuming that these 60g and 100g ratings are grams per square meter?

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Marmot Variant Insulated Jacket - Men's

June 25, 2011

Why is this jacket so heavy compared to the TNF Animagi or the Arcteryx Atom MX? All three are similarly constructed but this one is ~150 grams heavier than those two.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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DMM Torque Nuts

February 25, 2010

Why aren't these available in a set?

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes

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The North Face Primero 70 Backpack - 3950-4600cu in

June 9, 2009

I work in a gear store and this pack has me puzzled. I am 6'4 with a torso length of about 21", which normally puts me firmly in "large" or even XL territory for pack sizes. Not so with the Primero. I tried on a large and it was stupidly big! Adjusting the back length down significantly helped a little but whatever I did the lumbar pad was sitting on my tailbone and the back panel was rubbing against my shoulder blades. So I went and tried on a medium and found it much better. With the hip-belt and lumber pad in the right position, the back panel was in the right position and the shoulder straps were flush against my shoulders all the way round (which is a good indication of a good fit for any pack).

I don't know what data The North Face were using when they designed this pack. I cannot imagine there are many people who would require a "large" in this pack, seeing as a medium fit me with plenty of length left in the back (4-5 inches). I am sure that the sizing guide is incorrect. Anyone up to a 22" torso should look for a medium, I think.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Awesome

DMM Peenut Set No. 1-5

DMM Peenut Set No. 1-5

Rating for this product: 5 June 2, 2008

Totally rad little nuts. I bootied one on a climbing trip and used it on every climb thereafter. Getting the whole set ASAP.

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes

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