The 2011 boots are tech compatible (ie. will work with Onyx bindings), but since this is on clearance I'd say it's the older model that isn't compatible.

The Dakine website has that in its specs, so yes, it should.

I've carried mine vertically on my Dakine Heli Pack too.

The pink one? Good question. I'm going to guess it's a colour that's no longer available, since there isn't a colour that's light pink on the Marmot website either. It might be the Rose Red, but that looks darker to me.
Sorry...that wasn't much help, was it?

Hi,
I can't comment much on the size, since I have only one size in the women's. But I can tell you that the women's does have the wrist strap.

Hi Amy,

We're about the same size, though torso length has a lot more to do with backpack fit than absolute height.

Osprey is known for making great packs that fit well, and a lot of people swear by them. Personally, they don't fit me at all. A lot of other companies make good packs as well: Lowe alpine, Marmot, Deuter, North Face, etc.

The most important thing with a big pack is how comfortable it is to carry, and the best way to find that out is to go try some on! Load a pack up so that it's got some weight and bulk in it, and walk around in it for half an hour. That'll give you an indication of whether you can stand to carry it. Women's packs may be more comfortable for you, or they might not. It's very personal.

Features are also a big factor - what pockets do you want or need? Do you want top-only access? Side/front access?

I will say this: 85 L is BIG. If you have the space, you'll fill it. You may be planning on using the pack for other gear-intensive adventures that require lots of carry space, or you might be travelling with some bulky gear that needs the space, but for a 5-week tour in Europe 85 L should be more than enough space (I travelled for 4.5 months with a 65 L pack including camping gear like a sleeping pad, bag, pots, fuel, stove, etc.).

Not sure that really answered your question...my best suggestion is to go try on all the packs you can find.

I asked myself the same thing when I bought my Precip. What I ended up buying was a Precip jacket and the Venture pants. The jackets have pretty much the exact same features (pit zips, etc.). The fit is also pretty close to the same. I will say that my Precip jacket leaked on occasion when I was abusing it, but my Venture pants didn't. Having said that, the pants didn't get used anywhere near as often or abused as hard, and they did get a tear in one spot where I sat on a rock.

So...
Fit: about the same
Features: about the same
Waterproofness: both good
Durability: both good
Price: about the same

Nope, no opinion from me. I've been happy with the pieces I have from both lines.

Sorry I wasn't able to be much help for making a decision...

No, not specifically. Leather is naturally water resistant, though. If you're looking for the waterproof (Gore-Tex lined) version of the same boot, it's here: http://www.backcountry.com/outdoorgear/Mammut-Mt-Vista-GTX-Boot-Womens/MAM0187M.html?RSC_ID=WR_MAM0187

Here's the instructions: http://www2.thenorthface.com/download/pdf/instructions-AAS6.pdf Give those a shot.
Enjoy your trip!

Hi,

This is windproof, yes. I have the Narvik Gore-Tex Soft Shell pants that I use in the backcountry and I've never had a whiff of wind go through them unless I have the vents open. The fabric itself will keep you dry and wind-free.

As to whether these would be better than the Falketind, it depends on whether you're looking for a soft shell or a hard shell. My experience with the pants is that the fabric is almost half-way between a typical soft shell and a hard shell. For general winter wear with layers underneath, this should work out just fine.

Yep, the SlideLock closure makes a carry handle or clip point. It's visible in the picture of the bladder.

Hi,

There are a few sites that sell the footprint, but they all appear to be out of stock at the moment, including the manufacturer's site.

Another (cheaper) option is to make your own footprint. Get a piece of whatever you want to use for a footprint (a tarp works but is heavy. painters plastic is waaay lighter and works really well), set up your tent on top of it, trace the outline of the tent, and then cut inside that line (so that none of the footprint sticks out from the edge of the tent. Voila, instant tent footprint.

Edward,

I think I already answered this, but can't find the question or answer on this page, just on my profile. Here's the answer I had written before:

The footprint for the Mica 12 will be considerably smaller than the floor of the Tephra 22. You're going to do better looking at 2-person tent footprints.

The easiest option is probably to make your own footprint. Get a piece of whatever you want to use for a footprint (a tarp works but is heavy. painters plastic is waaay lighter and works really well), set up your tent on top of it, trace the outline of the tent, and then cut inside that line (so that none of the footprint sticks out from the edge of the tent. Voila, instant tent footprint.

Good luck!
Andrea

Should be 8 oz each, I believe.

yes, yes, yes, yes, and yes. It has all of the above.

Yes, I've noticed the same thing with my Hubba Hubba, and other tents that I've slept in. I suspect it's the same thing as when they get in the car and can't find their way out...they're just trapped. They come looking for the nice smelly human and then get stuck. Keeping one side of the fly unzipped and rolled back seems to make it easier for a few to escape, but they still collect at the top. Not sure I have a solution for you...I've never really considered it a problem, since they're on one side of the mesh and I'm on the other.

It's always best to have a footprint that's shaped and sized to fit your tent so that you don't run into troubles with water pooling under the tent.

The easiest option is probably to make your own footprint. Get a piece of whatever you want to use for a footprint (a tarp works but is heavy. painters plastic is waaay lighter and works really well), set up your tent on top of it, trace the outline of the tent, and then cut inside that line (so that none of the footprint sticks out from the edge of the tent. Voila, instant tent footprint.

Helen,

While it will protect the bottom of your tent better than not having anything, footprints are cut specifically to the shape of a particular tent, and having one that isn't the right shape or size can lead to trouble (like water pooling under the tent).

The easiest option is probably to make your own footprint. Get a piece of whatever you want to use for a footprint (a tarp works but is heavy. painters plastic is waaay lighter and works really well), set up your tent on top of it, trace the outline of the tent, and then cut inside that line (so that none of the footprint sticks out from the edge of the tent. Voila, instant tent footprint.

Yep. They're not waterproof, but they'll keep the water off pant legs and out of the top of shoes.

You're right, they should be cm. The Metolius website has it right. "Length: 28" (72 cm) and 47.5" (120 cm)"

Hi,
An Australian 14 is usually about a size 10 in American sizes. To be on the safe side, use the sizing chart (http://www.backcountry.com/store/sizingchart.html?sizing_id=24&sku=SAL1340&pg_id=224&subcat_id=36&cat_id=12) for measurements. If you're at the high end of the range, go with the bigger size (and if you're at the low end, the smaller size, obviously). Hope that helps.

Renae,
They are American sizes. Go with the measurements in the sizing chart to pick your size, since they're sold in S/M/L/XL and not numerical sizes anyway.
Andrea

Garrett,

The Muira VS isn't really a beginners shoe, as it's fairly asymmetrical and downturned. If you haven't worn an agressive shoe of that shape before it's going to take some getting used to. Having said that, if you've been climbing for 3 years (I'm assuming you meant fairly regularly) both indoors and out, are you really a beginner anymore? These shoes will give you precision and stickiness, but they're not bedroom-slipper-comfortable. If you can try some shoes of varying aggressiveness that might give you an idea what kind of shoe you might be looking for.

Yes, it has a Gore-Tex membrane to make it waterproof.

It's in stock now.

Tamera,

The product specifies that it contains broad spectrum UVA/UVB protection. And yes, you could certainly use it on your face, but be careful spraying around your eyes!

Malcolm,

This product will filter bacteria out of water, yes. If you're looking for something to filter large amounts of water in a base-camp-type setting, this would be an excellent choice.

I'd get a large. Although 67.5L falls into the "medium" size range, if you have the pack extended of stuff strapped to the outside a large will be a better fit.

julie,

Try some after-market rain covers here: http://www.backcountry.com/store/group/100000167/Pack-Accessories.html

Well, I wouldn't call it my warmest jacket, since it's not insulated. And I'm not sure I'd call it my lightest either, since I have a lighter jacket that I carry for "just in case" in the summer. But this is definitely my most waterproof and breathable and *bombproof* jacket. This is the one I take ski touring so I know I'll stay dry. This is the one I take hiking when there's dark grey clouds overhead, and this is the one I take backpacking if the forecast isn't just straight sunshines. This is the jacket I trust to keep me dry.

Matt, are we talking about hiking-backpacking or travelling-backpacking? And if you're hiking-backpacking and carrying your own tent, stove, fuel, food, etc, then how often are you going to be able to re-stock? For hiking-backpacking, 60L is a 3-5 day size for most people.

If we're talking about travelling-backpacking, then it's a whole other story. I travelled for 4.5 months with a 65L pack (and did a whole lot of hiking-backpacking on that trip too), but it depends on how many changes of clothes and shoes you're going to carry, etc. I know people who can live out of a 40L pack for months on end, and others who haul around an 80L pack. It's a very personal choice.

I'm sure that wasn't the answer you were looking for...

Yes, it does. It has a dual compartment with bottom access, so that's a common place to put a sleeping bag.

Absolutely you can. I wouldn't store it compressed all the time (I store mine in the included sack), but carrying it compressed is fine. A compression sack that's about 15 L should be fine.

Monique,
No, it's not waterproof. You'd probably be fine in a drizzle, but I'd expect wet coontents in a downpour.

stephen,

I have the ND version of this pack, and my 1.5 L hydration bladder fits in no problem. I generally carry a bottle as well if I need to carry more water than that at a time, but I usually have pretty regular water sources on my hikes. The sleeve would comfortably fit a 2 L bladder. 3L might be a tight fit.

This picture from Sea to Summit indicates that the zip is on the left.

Probably a size 8. I have a size 6.5 siren and a size 6 anasazi, but the anasazis are definitely too small, and I'd be way more comfy in a 6.5. The sizing's pretty close.

Like any inflating mat or sleeping bag, it should be stored uncompressed and with the valves open. Storing it compressed can compress the fibres/down/foam. You want to store these items such that they retain their loft.

Yep. It's up in the advanced-expert skiier category, designed for off-piste skiing, though it handles groomers well too.

Yep, that's correct. Zero snow entry on pow days!

Matt,

Assuming that it fits well, I have never found anyone who wasn't thrilled with their Anasazis and trying to make them last as long as possible. I'm thrilled with mine (the women's), and they're too small for me. Although these aren't the stiffest shoe around, they are fantastic for standing on little tiny edges while also being good for smearing. They're not built on a super-downturned last, so the foot remains in a fairly neutral position. The heel pocket is snug, so heel hooking is a breeze.

I would highly recommend trying them on somewhere before buying them! climbing shoe fit is such an important part of how shoes perform, and a poor fit will not only diminish the performance of the shoe, but probably be uncomfortable for you.

Hope that helps!
Andrea

Scott,
In a regular width, US 10.5 is about a 44 in EU sizing. You could try a 44.5, though if width is the main thing you're worried about that might just make them too long and still narrow for you.

Heather,

They won't really stretch no. They'll be more comfortable after a while, but they won't really get any bigger. My Anasazis are still as ridiculously tight as when I got them... :)

Top only, I believe.

Well, it'll be extremely hard to use. Picture yourself doing a pull up with your face a couple inches from the wall...your feet, knees, etc. are going to be touching. Having said that, I have seen it done...awkwardly. Doorways are much better.

Hi,

Keen doesn't appear to make a Youth sandal in a size 7 (http://www.keenfootwear.com/product/ss10/shoes/kids/youth/newport). The largest youth size is 6, and to go up to a size 7 you're into a men's shoe.

Hi Brian,

Base Wash is designed for synthetic base- and mid-layers, so it is designed to help with the wicking properties of those garments. Tech Wash is the best cleaner for clothing and outer layers like your pants, shirts, and Monkey Phur. It doesn't destroy waterproofing like regular detergent does, and it can help get old soapy residues off from previous detergent washings. If you want to increase the water resistance of your Monkey Phur, Nikwax makes Polar Proof, which can improce surface water repellency and reduce water absorption...not sure if you were interested in that, or just cleaning.

So, in short, use Tech Wash. =)

Andrea

Absolutely! It's a pretty good size for a day trip to the beach, and it actually closes, so you won't be losing your sunscreen and book out the top when you put it down. Good thinking. =)

Mark,

This beacon transmits and receives on the international standard frequency of 457 kHz as a transceiver, so it will work worldwide and with any other beacon. It has a second signal on a different frequency that transmits the vital signs data (W-link).

This is straight from the Mammut website:
"Aside from the standard signal frequency used by all avalanche transceivers, the PULSE Barryvox® is equipped with an additional communications channel (W-Link). Varying regulations in different countries prohibit the use of one unique frequency worldwide for this purpose. For this reason, we offer two different preconfigured device versions; one for the European region (EU version), the other for North America and Oceania (US version).
The only difference between the two versions is the preconfigured W-Link frequency. This does not affect the standard signal of the avalanche transceiver, and the devices are 100% compatible with other avalanche transceivers."

So that means that:
1. The Australia/New Zealand version and US version are the same
2. ONLY the vital signs data is transmitted on varying frequencies

Hi there.

There are certainly a lot of differences between the MiniWorks and the HyperFlow filters. Ignoring differences like weight (the Hyperflow weighs half what the MiniWorks does), pumping action (the Hyperflow is like a bike pump, the MinWorks has a handle pump), filtration rate (the HyperFlow says 3 L/min, the MiniWorks 1 L/min), and cleaning methods (the HyperFlow is a backflush, the MiniWorks you brush the ceramic), let's look at the filters themselves.

The MiniWorks uses a ceramic carbon-cored filter cartridge, with pores up to 0.2 microns in size. The ceramic takes care of particulates, bacteria and protozoa, and the carbon core removes some taste-causing chemicals, such as iodine or tannins.

The HyperFlow uses hollow fibre technology, which has a larger surface area for a given volume - this is how the HyperFlow can have such a high flowrate and be so small. The pore size is still up to 0.2 microns, so it's still effective for particulates, bacteria, and protozoa. The HyperFlow doens't have a carbon element though, so there isn't any removal of funny tasts from the water.

As for whether having a carbon element is important - that's up to you, and where you'll be getting water from. Some peopel hate the taste of chemicals in their water. Many backpackers add chemicals to their water to purify it (chlorine/iodine), rather than remove them.

Happy backcountry travel!

aaaah...I see what you were asking. Sorry about that. This will definitely get the job done for skiing. Snow, water and wind out. It's not a light summer shell - Gore Tex Pro Shell is beefy. Frankly, unless I know I'm going to be out for days in the rain in the summer, I wear a lighter rain jacket, but my Pro Shell always goes with me when I'm skiing.

Yep, as long as 40L is enough space for you. It depends on your gear and what you carry, but 40L is generally an overnight or weekend trip size of bag. I know people who would have trouble fitting their weekend backpacking gear into 40L, and I know people who have more compact gear and make do with less stuff and could backpack for a week with a 40L pack. Personally, I use my 45L pack (I don't have a 40L) for short trips and for week-long trips I bump up to my 65L pack since I'll be carrying more food and need to carry clothing for a wider range of weather possibilities.
Hope that helps...

Wendy,

It would work, yes. I started geocaching with this type of GPS and it worked fine until I left it at a cache. If you're looking for the ability to input coordinates and "go to" them to find the cache, as well as to mark locations (like a car or trailhead), this will work.

If you're looking for an ability to have maps on it, this one won't do the trick. You also need the cables if you wish to connect it to a computer (for putting waypoints onto it, for example). Of course, you can always just input the coordinates by hand...

So after a long-winded explanation: yep, it'll work. Not the fanciest and doesn't have all the bells and whistles, but it'll get you to those caches!

Ruth,

Basically, push back and down on it. I found mine really tight at first, though they loosened up with use. I think the first time I used them I had to get someone else to help me get them down. Good luck!

Andrea

Hi there. This jacket isn't insulated, so you can wear it in all seasons, and change what layers you're wearing underneath to keep you warm. This jacket will keep water and wind out (and let perspiration out), but you'll have to put some other clothing on to keep you toasty on those freezing winter days.

Yep, there's a pouch in the pack to hold a hydration pack, and a port that the hose can come through. =)

Brian,

What type of terrain will you be on? Are you looking for a snowshoe for rolling trails? steep mountains? deep powder? icy trails? Not sure and want to make sure that what you get will still be great if you get into the steep & deep? Knowing what kind of snowshoeing you're planning on doing will guide you in picking a shoe.

Some things to think about:
-for a lot of steep hill climbing, look for a snowshoe with a heel riser (a bar that pops up behind your heel)
-traction is important, especially for icy or steep areas. I'm a big fan of the traction on the MSR Lightning/Lightning Ascent because of the serrated frame, but I'm biased 'cause that's what I currently own.
-there are a couple of common binding pivot systems. A "spring-loaded" system (like the Atlas) is responsive and keeps the shoe from dragging, but flicks snow up onto your back/butt. Some people hate it, others don't mind. A more rigid pivot doesn't flick snow but means a bit more shoe drag. A personal choice.
-There are lots of different binding systems, and while they have their strong and weak points, quite frankly I think they're all fine and easy enough to get on and off that this probably won't be what you make a decision based on.

No matter what you pick, you're going to want to go towards the longer models, as they will provide more flotation for your weight.

Hope that helps a bit at least!
Andrea

Stuart,

There are many aftermarket rain covers available. There are some here: http://www.backcountry.com/store/group/100000167/Pack-Accessories.html. REI/MEC or other retailers also carry them and often make their own product. Just make sure you pick one intended for a 40L pack.

As for the gear loops, they're for attaching stuff to the pack. Ice axe, sleeping pad, helmets, water, or whatever.

Bob,

These gloves have a gore-tex insert which keeps water out and insulation, but they aren't removable. The gore-tex insert and insulation are an integral part of the glove.

Dee,

These poles come with low-profile trekking baskets, not powder baskets. The BD site does specify that they come with the long flex tips, though. And baskets and tips are swappable. =)

They come as a pair.

This is both the bladder and tube. The tube does disconnect from the bladder if you need it to (for easy removal from your pack, for example), but they are sold together.

kate,

You should be ok with a baselayer in these pants, though that will depend some on how warm of a person you are, how cold out it is, what kind of activity you're doing, and how heavy your baselayer is. In general though, a baselayer should be fine.

Andrea

RP,

Technically there isn't a left and right shoe, but MSR recommends wearing the shoes with the buckles on the inside of the foot.

I'm not quite sure how to answer your question about the straps and the prongs. I just pull to the tightness I want and then find the nearest hole to the prong and it pops in. I will say that it's more just the tip of the prong that's in the hole, not the whole length, but I've never had a problem with the straps loosening while I was wearing the shoe.

Hope that helps!
Andrea

Ken,

The Tracker 2 has an indicator light that tells you that it's picking up multiple signals, but it doesn't have the ability to "mark" a beacon and suppress that signal, no. If that's a feature that you're specifically looking for, have a look at the Barryvox Pulse, the Ortovox S1, or the Pieps DSP.

Yah, I assume so. The Norrona website currently has "Festival Fuchsia", "Caviar" and "Caviar/Blue" as colours, so Ebony appears to be older product.

I've decided to keep mine, and took them out on a ski tour last weekend...super happy. They were comfy, the mesh lined vents are great, and I love the fabric. It's like a hard softshell, and it's quiet in the backcountry. I just couldn't justify returning them and spending more than twice as much on other pants just for a side zip, when I probably don't really need the full zip.

On the bright side, if you don't like them when the arrive or they don't quite fit, backcountry has a fantastic returns policy. =)

Enjoy!

Hi Jenna,

First off, this is a great product. They're definitely high quality. I love mine to bits, and with the exception of some scratched paint from rocks mine still look brand new after over a year of use (not every day, but fairly frequent use).

At 90 lbs (+pack/gear), you'd be below the recommended upper weight limit of most kids snowshoes (double check before you buy), which is frequently ~125 lbs. Kids snowshoes would definitely be cheaper, and the quality won't necessarily be lower. Most kids snowshoes use the same materials as the adult counterparts (I'm generalizing, but MSR and Atlas are 2 companies that do). Having said that, I would make a different recommendation based on the terrain and snow conditions you're planning on using the shoes in. For flat or rolling terrain and fairly packed or not too deep snow, you'd probably be just fine on a kids snowshoe. For steeper and more technical terrain, I'd recommend an adult shoe for the extra features that it would give you, such as the heel lift. Since you're looking at the Lightning Ascent, which is definitely a shoe that's designed for technical terrain (but also works great on rolling), I'm going to assume that you're looking for the features and traction. An adult shoe will also be longer, in general (eg. Lightning Ascent is 22" or more long, and the MSR Shift is less than 20"), which will help with flotation. If you're planning on being in deep fluffy powder, I'd go with an adult shoe.

So, in summary:
For flat/rolling, fairly packed terrain: a youth snowshoe would be fine
For steep, technical, or deep terrain: go with an adult shoe.

Good luck with your choice, and have fun outside!
Andrea

To add to Ian's economic assessment of why buying shoes is a good idea, it's also nice to have your own pair of shoes that fits you well, and having your own shoes takes out the "ew" factor that comes with renting climbing shoes.

I'll also agree that trying them on is an excellent idea - the fit of climbing shoes is a pretty precise thing, and is not necessairly related to shoe size at all. Poor fitting climbing shoes can lead to really really sore toes (more than usual...).

Oh yah. Major differences in the pockets and venting zippers - they're in completely different places. You can see the differences in location in the pictures above, and the reviews by myself (on the Ebony) and Merebea (on the Caviar/Blue) describe the features of each color/style. The other reviews on this page also highlight some of the differences. Basically, the Ebony has 1 hip pocket, 1 back pocket, 1 thigh slash pocket, inseam vents that are mesh-lined, and a zipper at the bottom of the pant that goes up to somewhere between the ankle and knee. The Caviar/Blue has 2 hip pockets, 1 thigh slash pocket, 1 back pocket, vents on the outside of the leg which I don't think are mesh-lined (can someone confirm?), and the zippers at the bottom.

Other than the pockets & venting, I think that the fabric and construction is the same, but I only have the Ebony so I can't do a direct comparison.

Hope that helps!
Andrea

Hi,

I personally prefer the MSR because of the superb traction of the the serrated frame over the tube style, especially on hills. Going down, I'm not as likely to be sliding on my butt, and going up I can plant my foot and know that even if I shift my weight off of the main crampons I'll still have an edge biting into the snow.

I've had both types of shoes, and I like the concept of the spring-loaded suspension on the Atlas shoes - the responsivevness and lack of drag. However, the kick-up at the back hits me in the back of the neck (I'm short), so I either had to wear a hood or put up with snow down my neck, and I ended up exchanging my Atlases (E11) for the Lightning Ascent. I've been really happy with the switch...no complaints.

Have fun!
Andrea

It doesn't have a specific shovel pocket, no, so you'll have to put your shovel inside your pack where it's won't get ripped off the pack during an avalanche. As for ski carry, the pack is best suited to an A-frame carry - that's how the webcatcher straps are placed.

Dee,
You put a filter in the cone (#6 paper or cloth, and I think this comes with a re-usable one), put in some coffee (it suggests 2 tablespoons of medium/fine grind per 6 oz of water), pour hot water on top, and let it drip, adding more water to get the amount of coffee you want. It's basically an insulated carafe with a filter cone on top - you have to heat the water seperately.

If you don't like long snowshoes most of the time, you're probably going to be better off going with a modular snowshoe like the Evo Ascent. The tails for the Evo Ascent are 6" tails, so they will give you a fair bit of flotation if you need it. The Lightning/Lightning Ascent is a fixed-length snowshoe; there's no option to add tails to that design. MSR's selection guide (http://cascadedesigns.com/selection_snowshoe_static.aspx) puts a 200 lb person on the Evo Ascent + tails for soft or soft & deep (deeper than 30") snow, or the Lightning/Lightning Ascent 25", maybe the 30" for soft & deep snow.

If you're not going to be in powder all the time where you need the extra length and you don't like having a longer shoe, I'd go with the Evo Ascent.

Andrew,

You don't necessarily have to apply the leather balm before first use or on a particular schedule, but if the leather is looking dry you definitely need to...try to do it before the leather gets to that stage. I'd do it at the end of the season too to keep the leather in good condition while it's being stored.

Here's Hestra's advice on leather care:
Grease the leather regularly and it will resist moisture, wear and tear better. Moisten the leather a little first. Use a polishing cloth and rub in the grease until the leather is saturated. Do this in the evening and the grease is absorbed during the night.

Yep. I have a Giro helmet that's about 5 years old (G10? I can't remember), and my hood fits over it with room to spare.
-Andrea

Most snowshoe bindings will accomodate a snowboard boot, but not all. In general, you'll have better luck with a binding that is open at the toe and wraps ro straps around the foot (eg. the Atlas bindings or MSR bindings). I'd be careful with bindings with an enclosed toe that you step into - I've seen some snowboard boots that are too high in the toe to fit.

Since you're asking on this page, I'm going to assume you're considering the Atlas 12. The specs on this shoe specifically indicate that they're snowboard boot compatible.

I'm 5'2" and about 30" in the waist, and I have a size small that are more than big enough in the waist (I have them cinched down and still can fit a whole lot of layers tucked in), and the 29" inseam is plenty long for me...they'd be way too long if my ski boots didn't hold them up.

Yes, the powder skirt does zip off to give you a pant that sits just below the waist. Actually, without the jacket to zip it to, the powder skirt just kind of flops and doesn't do a whole lot...

As for warmth, this pant isn't insulated. The soft shell material is lined with a soft fabric so that it's comfortable, but they're not insulating.

I spent 4.5 months in Europe a couple of years ago, and 2.5 months of that was in the Alps hiking. With my personal gear (for summer, so I wasn't prepared for cold like you will be) and a tent, cooking gear, and food split between two, I found a 65L pack perfect. My personal gear included a harness, hiking clothes, sandals, shell, fairly light insulation layers, a self-inflating mat, and a 0C sleeping bag. I was also carrying some extra stuff that I wouldn't normally while hiking, like a set of clothes for cities so I had something non-smelly to wear. I'd go with the 65. Have fun! Sounds awesome...

Nope. No waistbelt on this pack.

Definitely big enough. It fits over my ski helmet with room to spare.

Yep, that sounds about right. I have a 1.5 L reservoir (50 oz) and it fits in there perfectly, with some extra space.

Hi Dianna,

That's not something that I've ever noticed while snowshoeing. The main things that I find different in icy conditions is that snowshoeing is louder than in powder, and that each step has to be more carefully placed on a slope so that I don't inadvertently slide...I think about where my crampons are and where my weight needs to be to make them work properly. I guess since the ground is harder when icy there's more impact when you step, so if that's an issue for you, then maybe you might get pain somewhere (I'm thinking of the difference between walking on grass vs. pavement, for example). In general though...nope, I don't think so.

Hope that helps!
Andrea

Hi,

I'd definitely go with the 30 inch in either the 9 or 10 series. The 25 inch puts the top weight spec at 200 lb, and at 190 you're right at the upper spec. Keep in mind that your weight on snowshoes is going to include outdoor clothing and shoes and a pack if you're carrying one. The 30 inch shoe will give you room to carry a pack, and will float better in powder. If you're going to be on packed trails all the time, the 25 inch might be ok, but the 30 inch will give you the option to wander off-trail without sinking.

Hope that helps!
Andrea

Tough question Clare.

I'm going to answer purely based on personal preference. I prefer the rigid pivot over the Atlas suspension.

I tried the Atlas system when I was first looking at buying snowshoes and it did work great. It's super-responsive, flexes to make walking on a bit of a sidehill easier, etc. What I didn't like about the Atlas suspension is that it flicks snow up behind the person. Most people seem to get the snow in the butt or back...I'm short and the flying snow seemed to consistently hit at about where the collar on my jacket was, so I had a consistent stream of snow hitting my neck and going down my back, which got pretty annoying in a hurry.

I ended up going with an MSR shoe, which has a rigid pivot point, and I've been really happy with it. =)

-Andrea

Steve,

The buckles should be on the outside, and the loop on the inside of the foot. Check out the video here: http://atlassnowshoe.com/snowshoe/11 under "Video".

Differences:

The aluminum alloy used for the frame. The 11 series is 6061 (major alloying elements are silicon, magnesium, and copper) and the 12 series is 7075 (major alloying elements zinc, magnesium, and copper). Both are common aircraft alloys; 7075 is a very lightweight alloy, and the specific properties of either depends on a lot more than just the type of aluminum (sorry, I spent too many years in school learning about this stuff...).

The 12 series is slightly lighter.

The ReactiV frame on the 12 series has an elliptical shape (the 11 series has a circular cross-section), which apparently makes it stiffer.

The decking material is different. The 11 series uses Nytex decking, which is flexible and quiet in the cold. The 12 series uses Duratek decking, which is supposed to be more abrasion resistant.

The binding is different. The 11 series uses the Wrapp Plus, while the 12 series uses the Wrapp Pro. The Wrapp Pro has silicone straps.

The toe crampons are different. The 11 series uses the All-Trac toe crampon, and the 12 series uses the Holey-1 toe crampon. The Holey-1 has shovel-shaped prongs, which are supposed to give better bite on ice.

As for which is better...that's up to you. My opinion is that unless you want a very high performance mountain snowshoe and have a specific need for it, the 11 series will be sufficient. The 11 series shoe still has the key features that you'd want to see, like a heel lift, for mountain travel, and it's in the details that the shoes differ.

Hope that helped!
Happy snowshoeing!

Hi,

These gloves are sized by measuring the width across the knuckles. A quick look with a ruler or measuring tape should give you the information you need.

To add to A C's answer:

The toe crampon and the heel cleat are also different - more aggressive on the 9.

They'd both be fine for a beginner - it really depends on what type of terrain you're going to be one what type of snowshoe would be best. The steeper and more technical the terrain, the more aggressive a snowshoe you're going to want. For packed trails, a less aggressive set of cleats on the bottom will be fine.

Have fun!

Hi nicole,

The first thing to consider is your weight while suited up to go out - outdoor clothing, whatever you might carry in a pack, etc. That'll probably put you right at the upper end of the weight range for the 21 in.

The next thing to consider is the type of snow you're going to be on. For packed trails, you can go with a shorter shoe. The lighter and fluffier the snow, the more flotation you need, and the longer snowshoe will give you that.

Obviously, the longer snowshoe will weigh more. You may also find it a bit unwieldy compared to the shorter one, but if you're just starting out and you start on the longer one you won't notice. I use a 25 in. snowshoe (I'm 5'2" and 130 lb), but I've also tried a 27 in. and I did notice that stepping over obstacles was a slightly bigger challenge with the longer shoe.

My advice would be to go with the 25 in. shoe. Although you could probably get away with the 21 in. shoe on trails, having the longer snowshoe gives you the option to carry a larger pack or venture off-trail into deeper snow without sinking. You might just fall in love with snowshoeing and find that next year you just want to tramp up and down mountains in powder all day... ;) The good thing about snowshoes is that a snowshoe geared towards deeper snow or more difficult terrain will also work just fine on trails.

Have fun!

You can wear just about anything you want. Trail runners, hiking boots, winter boots...whatever. Some bindings don't fit snowboarding boots very well, so if you're specifically thinking of using the shoes while in boarding boots, I'd double-check before buying.

Hi Holly,

For on-trail hiking these snowshoes should be fine. Other hiking snowshoes would also work - the Atlas 9 comes as a package as well (poles, tote bag), or you can put together your own package by getting poles separately (and then you can choose your poles).

However, if most of the hiking is going to be uphill, and depending on how steep it might be, I'd consider a snowshoe with a heel lift, which keeps the foot more horizontal while the snowshoe is at whatever steep angle, reducing calf strain. Snowshoes with heel lifts tend to be at the upper end of the spectrum, though, with the snowshoe alone probably being $200+. Examples of snowshoes with heel lifts are the Tubbs Mountaineer, Atlas 11 or 12, MSR Lightning Ascent, Denali Ascent, or Denali Evo Ascent.

Whatever you choose, have fun out there!

It's not insulated, so it won't keep you warm that way. It'll keep you warm as an extra layer and by breaking the wind and keeping you dry though...

Well, I suppose it depends what else you have in there, but you shouldn't have any trouble getting your lunch into this pack.

The volume of the daypack is included in the 75 L. So, 75 L total, not 94 L.

Yah, it does. Easy to get rid of heat in a hurry if you need to!

Scott,

In general, as you go up a line of snowshoes (eg. Atlas 8 up to Atlas 12) you tend to get lighter materials, more aggressive crampons, a heel lifter in the higher models (the 11 and 12 for Atlas), etc. Of course, the price goes up too.

If you're looking for something to do it all, or if you might start out on pretty easy stuff and progress to steeper terrain, but don't want to spend a fortune, I'd go with a mid-range snowshoe (something like the Atlas 10). If you're planning on hiking steep hills, the heel lifter is an awesome feature - it reduces strain on the calves by an incredible amount. If running is going to be a major snowshoeing activity for you, you might want to consider a running showshoe - they tend to be lighter and narrower, but also designed mostly for packed trails.

Snowshoe bindings in general are adjustable to whatever shoes you want to put in them, so that shouldn't be a problem.

Take a look at a few different brands as well. Atlas snowshoes are known for their spring-loaded bindings, which are great but do tend to flip a bit of snow up onto your back. MSR snowshoes moves away from the tube frame to plastic decking or an aluminum crampon frame. I can't tell you what Tubbs snowshoes are known for and I have no experience with them, but checking out the reviews and comments on the pages for those snowshoes will probably give you some insights.

Hope that helps,
Andrea

Scott,

I'd go with the woman's. Because they're designed for females and the way we walk, I personally find that walking in women's snowshoes is waaaaay easier. I always step on the edges of men's snowshoes. The women's ones are a different shape...narrower!

The women's Atlas E10 has a weight range of 120-200 lb (54-90kg) for the 27 in. shoe. The 23 in. is for 80-160 lb, so with a pack on and in fluffy deep snow you'd be much better off with the 27 in.

Cheers,
Andrea

George,
I can confirm that the waistbelt on this pack is not removable.

No, there is no safety whistle on the sternum strap. Sorry...

These will work great for you. Snowshoes don't have a minimum weight that they'll work for, so you won't have any problems with that. You'll just probably never have to add tails for extra flotation!

If you really want to be sure that these are the snowshoes for you, and you have friends with a pair, borrow them for an afternoon. As far as sizing goes, though, these will work just fine.

Happy snowshoeing!

Looks like you've done your research, Kurt.

I honestly don't think you're going to notice a difference in brightness - it's not very much, and they're both really, really bright.

Yes, lithium batteries will give better performance in the cold and will be a bit lighter, but if you're not going on long overnight journeys you may not notice that either.

As you said, the main differences between the lights are the programming function on the RXP and the battery compatibility. If you think you'd use the programming, go for the RXP. If lithium batteries are super-important, go with the RXP. Otherwise, go with the XP.

They're both highly reviewed lamps. The XP has more years of consistently good reviews, but the reviews so far on the RXP are great too. I don't think you'll disappointed no matter which one you pick.

That didn't really make your decision for you...only you can decide what you really need for what you'll be doing. =)

How tall are you? That will make a difference in what length of ski you should be looking for.

This jacket would be excellent for backcountry skiing. The 3-layer Gore-Tex ProShell will keep you dry and the pit-zips will keep you cool while you toil uphill. The hood is listed by Arc'teryx as helmet-compatible as well. What this jacket doesn't have that you might want is a powder skirt.

Because this jacket is Arc'teryx's lightest 3-layer Gore-tex shell, it's designed for light-and-fast travel and doesn't have every bell and whistle on the market (eg. a powder skirt). It is, however, very versatile: skiing, climbing, mountaineering, backpacking...it'll work for them all without having extra features that are ski-specific.

jessica,

These boots would keep your feet toasty and dry, and look pretty cool while they do it. =)

Steve,

Marmot recommends using a Granger's cleaner and waterproofer to restore repellency. Most outdoor stores carry Granger's, but you might have to ask for it. Check out their website: http://www.grangers.co.uk/

I'm not sure exactly what you're asking. If you think of something that's 20" x 10" x 4", that's 800 cu in.

North Face specifies the sleeve length from the centre back to be 33.5 in for the large. The medium is 32.5 and the XL is 34.5.
Measure the distance from the prominent bone at center back neck, across the shoulder, over the bent elbow to the center of the wrist bone.

Good luck!

Hi Kathrynn,

At 120, your weight falls into the XS size, but also at the bottom end of the S. Since you're a bit shorter than the range for S, that's probably why they're bunching behind the knees a bit (just about all of my pants do that...I'm short too). If you have a small and they're comfortable, go with that size. It sounds like the small is tight enough. Why change if the size is working for you?

Happy running!

Easier said than done to get the right size, as I discovered when I moved from Canada to Oz and started asking the reverse question. I'm going to say that you're probably about a size 9.

Yep. The Electron 1, 2, and 3 all come with the footprint, portable attic, etc.

Mauricio,

As long as the GPSr has a pretty good view of the sky (so that it can get a lock on satellites), it will work. That sounds like a great way to use it!

Darlene,

The official specs of the Vista have a temperature range of 5F to 158F (-15C to 70C), but I've used my Vista HCx at colder temperatures than that. Cold temps will make the GPSr take longer to acquire a satellite fix, but it will still work.

This GPSr does have all of the basic features that you would expect. You can track your path, follow the GPSr to a waypoint, etc. That would take care of knowing where you are, how to get back, and how far you've come (just mark your starting point as a waypoint). This GPSr will also tell you your speed on the compass page.

A note: Topographic maps for this GPSr are extra - they can be purchased from Garmin. The Vista does not accept data cards, so you are limited to the 24 MB of internal memory built in. That would probably be enough for most people, but if you're planning on loading a lot of maps, consider a GPSr that will accept memory cards. If you like the Vista interface, the Vista HCx accepts cards (and has a colour screen and some other features).

Good luck choosing!

Dee,

Interesting situation.

Technically speaking, the snowshoes are not left or right specific, but MSR does recommend wearing them such that the tension buckle on the heel is on the inside of the foot.

Retail stores will sell snowshoes in a pair, so if you're looking for a single shoe or a binding change-out, I would suggest contacting MSR. They may have other suggestions as well. The store that you bought them from may be able to do something for you as well if you complain that they sold you a mismatched pair.

Good luck!

According to the Dakine Snow Series Owner's Manual (http://www.dakine.com/assets/dk/SnowPacksTechManual.pdf), the Heli Pro DLX has 3 things that the Heli Pro doesn't:
-Snowboard cross-carry
-Insulated hydration sleeve
-Quick stash waist pocket

The DLX also weighs twice as much (3 lb vs. 1.5 lbs).

Having said that, I was under the impression that the regular Heli Pro had some or all of those features, and looking at the reviews of the regular pack, there are some that say they do, and some that say they don't. Since Dakine appears to have updated their website fairly recently, and it's changed since the last time I looked at it (when it indicated that the regular Heli Pro had those features), I'd assume that the DLX has the 3 features mentioned, and that the regular Heli Pro doesn't.

Confusing?

Bodil,

The size of snowshoe that you get isn't based on your shoe size. The bindings will adjust to whatever size of boot you put in it; size 7 will be no problem.

What should determine which length of snowshoe you get is weight. So, for this snowshoe, the 21 in is recommended for 80-150 lb and the 25 in for 120-200 lb. This weight is your weight, dressed in whatever you're going to be wearing, and including anything that you're going to be carrying. So, if you're going to carry a 20 lb backpack while snowshoeing, add that to your body weight.

The other thing that is a main factor in snowshoe length is the type of snow you're going to be on. If you're going to be on packed or very hard snow, a shorter snowshoe will be ok. If you're planning on being on light fluffy powder, a longer snowshoe will give you more flotation so that you don't sink.

Hope that helps. =)

Nope, no drawstring on them when I was looking (I ended up buying a different brand). If you're using it with a mummy sleeping bag, just wrap it over your head and cinch the hood on the sleeping bag. If you're using it without a sleeping bag...well, I can't think of why I would want it cinched around my head in that case. I've never seen a mummy silk liner with a drawstring around the hood.

The nature of snowshoe bindings (highly adjustable) means that you can wear just about any footwear you want with them, from a light trail shoe, to a hiking boot, to a full-on winter boot. I've seen no shortage of people strap a pair of snowshoes onto their running shoes for a quick jaunt. I generally go for something waterproof, since I hate having wet feet. If it's freezing cold, I wear my insulated winter boots. If it's not too cold, I wear hiking boots, which are ankle height. If I need to, I wear gaiters to keep snow out of the top of my boots.

I'd suggest: wear something comfortable, with the right amount of insulation for the temperature, and think about water resistance. Chances are pretty good that if you're living somewhere you can use snowshoes you already have all the footwear you need in your closet.

Yah, these shoes come with 2 sets of laces, so you can choose which you prefer. The ones that look like normal shoelaces are, well, normal shoelaces. The other pair are elastic with a quick-lock, which makes the shoes faster to get on and off - more like a slip-on (put on, pull, tighten locker). The pic of the shoe at the top of the page shows how the lacing pattern should look.

Personally, I find that the elastic laces are ridiculously long, and when I yank on them they tighten the top of the shoe but not down over my foot to the toes.

Try out both, see which you like better...

Yep, it has a removable Goggle Lock, which the Smith website desribes as "Securely retains the goggle strap on the helmet to ensure comfort and performance". The picture that goes with that description is...a removable goggle clip on the back.

Yep. A hand pocket and a sleeve pocket.

The North Face website specifies that the Hot Shot SE has a tuck-away hipbelt.

Brrrr....

Merino has a lot of increadible properties - because it's wool, it insulates when wet, doesn't get too stinky, has great moisture management properties, and is warm. But, unlike traditional wool clothing, it's fine and soft, so it's super comfortable. I hated my scratchy wool sweaters as a kid (cold Canadian winter...), but I absolutely love my merino clothing. Having said that...it's still wool. If you're truly allergic to wool (and it's not just a general dislike), I'd be cautious of going that route.

I'm going to summarize your requirements for a legging, and you can correct me if I'm wrong. You're looking for something warm, wind resistant, and that looks like normal clothing. Based on the wind resistance, I'd be looking for something like a softshell legging. I would start by looking at winter running or cycling leggings, and hope that I could find something without too many reflective stripes. If you're looking at cycling tights, make sure you check if they have a chamois (a pad through the crotch), since that would definitely qualify as "bulky". A lot of cycling and running clothing might also be listed as "windproof" but if you read the details they just have windproof front panels (for when you're going into the wind).

Most baselayers will have no wind resistance, since they're generally intended to be worn underneath something else.

I'd be looking for something like this (except that this does have a chamois):
http://www.realcyclist.com/roadbike/GBW0059/Gore-Bike-Wear-Sportive-Windstopper-Tight-Womens.html

Kudos to you...when it's that cold, I tend to go for wearing something along the lines of my ski pants...

Good luck finding what you need!

Looks like you twist the front, pop the lens out, change the bulb, and then put it back together in reverse.

Here's the paperwork: http://www.petzl.com/files/all/technical-notice/headlamps/E69P%20DUOLED5%20E69500-L%20.pdf

I'm sure it'll make more sense to you than me, since you're familiar with the light.

Yep.

Here's some info about this light:
Maximum output: 35 lumens

At a given length of battery use (ie. 0 h is new batteries), the distance at which the light from the headlamp is brighter than a full moon on a clear night (0.25 lux is):

At the brightest setting:
0 h = 32 m
0.5 h = 25 m
10 h = 15 m
30 h = 5 m

At the middle setting:
0 h = 23 m
0.5 h = 20 m
10 h = 13 m
30 h = 6 m

At the dim setting:
0 h = 15 m
0.5 h = 14 m
10 h = 11 m
30 h = 9 m

Check this out for the details in a more readable form: http://www.petzl.com/files/all/us/products/comparison/headlamps-performance-table.pdf

kim,

It depends on a few things. First of all, every airline has their own requirements, generally listed on websites, so check the requirements for the airlines you're most likely to use. Keep in mind that there are weight restrictions too.

Having said that, based on the limits for Air Canada, NWA, American Airlines, and Qantas, this bag's too big. You might get away with the 65L on British Airways, but it's borderline. If you're planning on flying on anything other than major routes that might get a smaller aircraft, there's a good chance it just won't fit anywhere you try to put it. Of course, if you're only going to half fill it and then cinch it down to be smaller, then it might work.

If you're looking for something that you want to try to carry on but don't mind checking, then by all means try. If you're looking for a bag that you can count on being able to carry on, go smaller. Probably something 3000 cu in (50L) or less.

Waterproof? No. Water resistant? Yes. Probable ok in a drizzle, wouldn't want to stand around in a downpour for hours with a laptop inside though.

Yep. Check the Help section for the Return Policy and Procedure. Basically, you send the shoes back and get a refund, or an exchange if you want. backcountry.com is good about that.

By the way, you'll get a faster answer to this kind of question by contacting the sales team or clicking "Chat Now" at the top of the screen to talk to a Gear Expert in real time.

From the Brunton website:
Lux rating: 7 (Lantern Mode) - 35 (Flashlight Mode) @ 2 meters

Not from the Brunton website:
Comparing the light from different flashlights, headlamps, etc. can be a tricky business. The best way is by comparing diagrams that show light intensity and spread at different distances from the light and a different distances from the centre of the beam. What a lux measurement really tells you is how good a device is at projecting light over a distance, not the overall brightness or quantity of light produced. This website has the best explanation I've found so far (most of them are so confusing it's not even funny): http://www.flashlightreviews.com/features/lux.htm.

Bascially, this device produces 7 lux (lumens/square metre) in lantern mode and 35 lux in flashlight mode, measured at a distance of 2 m from the light, in the centre of the beam. BUT that doesn't tell you anything about how wide the beam is or how the light intensity changes towards the outer edges of the beam.

So...there's a whole bunch of information for you, but in terms of how that helps you pick a light...? Unless you have something to compare to that uses the same measurement, it doesn't. It would be nice if Brunton would give us the beamshot diagram...

Carry on size restrictions vary from airline to airline, but I haven't found one yet that this pack would fit on. I'm not sure exactly the dimensions without the daypack, but it would change one dimension only. That might put you into a carry-on-able range with some airlines for total dimensions, but I suspect it would still be too long. Airlines have their restrictions on their websites - check a few, expecially the airlines that you're planning on using.

It completely depends on how much stuff you're planning on taking and bringing back. Keep in mind that by month 6 you might be really sick of carrying around the souvenirs from month 1. Mailing home items that you buy is always an option, if not necessarily cheap.

I would argue with Michael about the size. I backpacked for 8 months last year with a 65 L pack and never had a problem, though I had to think about how and what I packed. I was doing a lot of heavy and overnight hiking, so I was carrying a sleeping bag, sleeping mat, boots, a set of clothes for hiking, and a lot of other little things I wouldn't have been if I had been train/bus travelling between fairly urban locations. I was pretty lean on how much city clothes I was carrying, but I managed.

All I can suggest is to figure out how much stuff to want to take, bring home a few packs, and try to pack them. That will really tell you what size of pack you need, as well as what features you need.

The manufacturer makes it in 36D, but backcountry.com seems to not have that size in stock at the moment.

A Gear Expert (click "chat now") might be able to tell you if they're getting more stock and in what sizes.

The sizing chart lists the inseam for the XL as 33" and the XXL as 33.5".

Marmot website doesn't list it in the specs, but in the "press" section, there are 2 articles that peg it at 6 oz (170 g) and one at 6.5 oz (185 g).

I'd say it's pinker than the picture. Hard to describe...a dark pink, but lighter than in the picture. I definitely wouldn't call it maroon.

You'll get a much quicker answer to a stocking question by asking a Gear Expert in Live Chat.

Yes, they have a zipper that goes up to mid-calf, as well as a tab with a hook-and-loop fastener to adjust the width of the bottom of the pant.

Courtney,

The size that you get should be based on your fully loaded weight - meaning your fully clothed body weight plus the gear weight of typical items you would carry in a backpack while snowshoeing.

The recommendations are:
Model 21W for a load of 80-150 lbs
Model 25W for a load of 120-200 lbs

Which length you get also depends on what snow conditions you're planning on using the shoes in. A longer snowshoe will give you more float, and is better for powdery snow. If you're in the range of weights where the sizes overlap, and are planning on using the snowshoes in deep & light snow, size up. If you're planning on using them only on packed trails, the shorter ones would be fine.

I'm not sure what you mean, but I'm going to guess that you're wondering what length of snowshoes would work for someone. The recommendations are: 21in snowshoe for someone 80-150lb (36-68kg); 25in snowshoe for someone 120-200lb (54-91kg)

Is that what you meant?

There's no external water bottle sleeve or pocket. You'd have to put a water bottle in the back or attach it to the outside some other way. The pack is designed to carry a hydration bladder, and has an insulated sleeve for the hose.

Absolutely!

These are an excellent snowshoe for moderate terrain. If you don't already have poles and want some, then this package gives you those, and it's always nice to have something to haul it all around in.

I will warn you though: the Atlas binding design "springs back" into position as you finish your step. That means that, unless you're on really packed snow, you're likely to get snow thrown up onto your butt and back. I'm short; I get the odd bit down my neck too. The binding system is excellent technically, but if you don't want a snowy butt or don't have waterproof pants/jacket, I'd think about going with a different brand.

Matthew,

There are a lot of differences between the Evo Ascents and the Lightning Ascents.

As far as traction: the Evo Ascent has the crampon under the front of the foot and rails down the sides. The Lightning Ascent has a crampon under the front of the foot, two side-to-side serrated pieces, and the entire frame is serrated. So no, the Lightning Ascent definitely does not have less traction.

In terms of differences:
The Evo Ascent has plastic decking. The Lightning Ascent has an aluminum frame and urethane decking.
The Evo Ascent has sold-separately tails that can be added for more float. The Lightning Ascent doesn't, so make sure you get the appropriate length for the conditions you're going to be using it in.
Basically, they're a completely different design.

The only similarities that come to mind are the binding system and the fact that they both have a "televator" system for climbing.

Hope that helps...if you need more info, feel free to ask about specifics. Check out the MSR website too (www.msrcorp.com). It has more detailed info and specs on the two models.

The tent layout and design is the same. The Hubba Hubba has mesh walls, with just the floor and the diamond at the top of the tent being solid material. The Hubba Hubba HP has replaced a lot of the mesh with lightweight solid fabric.

No, but you can either make your own or purchase it separately: http://www.backcountry.com/outdoorgear/MSR-Hubba-Hubba-HP-Footprint/CAS0355M.html?RSC_ID=WR_CAS0355

It's not uncommon for certain sizes or colours to be different sale prices, in any store, due to stocking considerations or some other reason.

Go with the size that's most likely to fit - if you spend $10 less and have a boot that's too big, you're not going to be happy with it, or you'll end up returning it or exchanging it for a smaller size anyway. A good deal isn't a good deal unless it works for you.

rebecca,
This is a backpacking boot and doesn't have a front or rear welt to accept a step-in or semi-automatic crampon. You could use a strap-on crampon for occasional walking use. If you're planning on using the boots with crampons you're probably better off looking at mountaineering boots.

Andrew,
I don't have these poles specifically, but another pair from the series, so I'm going based on that and Leki's specs on this pole compared to the one I have.

I don't think the grips are cork. The Leki website certainly doesn't mention it, and this pole seems to come in two versions (Black and Sahara), which are different colors and have different looking grips. The black looks like foam, and I don't remember them being cork from when I was shopping. The Sahara looks like it might be cork.

I can't really comment on the size of the grip, except that it's supposed to be "a grip designed to fit smaller hands".

I haven't had a problem with the Super Lock system on my Leki poles. I did with a different brand of poles and somewhat different locking system (still a twist lock, but a lot more twisting and a lot more force). Having said that, I haven't had them for years and years, so I don't know how the performance over time is going to be. No problems yet though.

Hope that helps a bit...sorry I couldn't answer all the questions that well.

Looks like most of the winter packs have that pocket. Heli Pro, Tactic, Chute, Blade, Poacher, Guide. From what I can tell, though, the Heli Pack does NOT have a waist belt pocket.

I wore this jacket in a lot of pretty brutal weather last year - fine rain, driving rain, sleet, slush, snow...you name it, we had it. I wear glasses, so keeping water off my face is a pretty big concern.

I never had a problem with the hood. Sure, there were some water droplets on my glasses from time to time, but there wasn't water dripping off my nose. The brim did a good job. I could walk normally; I didn't have to look at the ground any more than I usually do while hiking to watch where I'm going. I didn't use the volume adjustment on the back of the hood, but I cinched the drawstring up a bit around my face if I didn't want the hood to fly off my head in the wind or if I moved my head a lot.

Hope that helps.