Scott,

In general, as you go up a line of snowshoes (eg. Atlas 8 up to Atlas 12) you tend to get lighter materials, more aggressive crampons, a heel lifter in the higher models (the 11 and 12 for Atlas), etc. Of course, the price goes up too.

If you're looking for something to do it all, or if you might start out on pretty easy stuff and progress to steeper terrain, but don't want to spend a fortune, I'd go with a mid-range snowshoe (something like the Atlas 10). If you're planning on hiking steep hills, the heel lifter is an awesome feature - it reduces strain on the calves by an incredible amount. If running is going to be a major snowshoeing activity for you, you might want to consider a running showshoe - they tend to be lighter and narrower, but also designed mostly for packed trails.

Snowshoe bindings in general are adjustable to whatever shoes you want to put in them, so that shouldn't be a problem.

Take a look at a few different brands as well. Atlas snowshoes are known for their spring-loaded bindings, which are great but do tend to flip a bit of snow up onto your back. MSR snowshoes moves away from the tube frame to plastic decking or an aluminum crampon frame. I can't tell you what Tubbs snowshoes are known for and I have no experience with them, but checking out the reviews and comments on the pages for those snowshoes will probably give you some insights.

Hope that helps,
Andrea

Scott,

I'd go with the woman's. Because they're designed for females and the way we walk, I personally find that walking in women's snowshoes is waaaaay easier. I always step on the edges of men's snowshoes. The women's ones are a different shape...narrower!

The women's Atlas E10 has a weight range of 120-200 lb (54-90kg) for the 27 in. shoe. The 23 in. is for 80-160 lb, so with a pack on and in fluffy deep snow you'd be much better off with the 27 in.

Cheers,
Andrea

Hi,

I don't have either of these two colours personally, so I can't really answer your question. I have "meadow", which is the bright green in the detail pictures.

I can tell you that the lithium is a discontinued colour in this jacket. Turtle dove appears in the Marmot catalogue for fall 2009. Based on the pictures alone, turtle dove looks a bit darker to me, and the zippers looks like a darker red; the zippers on the lithium look quite bright.

If you're planning on purchasing this jacket from backcountry.com, the size you need might determine the colour you can get. At the moment, lithium is only available in XL; turtle dove is available in XS and M.

Hopefully that helps, and hopefully someone else can do an in-person comparison for you. =)

George,
I can confirm that the waistbelt on this pack is not removable.

No, there is no safety whistle on the sternum strap. Sorry...

These will work great for you. Snowshoes don't have a minimum weight that they'll work for, so you won't have any problems with that. You'll just probably never have to add tails for extra flotation!

If you really want to be sure that these are the snowshoes for you, and you have friends with a pair, borrow them for an afternoon. As far as sizing goes, though, these will work just fine.

Happy snowshoeing!

Looks like you've done your research, Kurt.

I honestly don't think you're going to notice a difference in brightness - it's not very much, and they're both really, really bright.

Yes, lithium batteries will give better performance in the cold and will be a bit lighter, but if you're not going on long overnight journeys you may not notice that either.

As you said, the main differences between the lights are the programming function on the RXP and the battery compatibility. If you think you'd use the programming, go for the RXP. If lithium batteries are super-important, go with the RXP. Otherwise, go with the XP.

They're both highly reviewed lamps. The XP has more years of consistently good reviews, but the reviews so far on the RXP are great too. I don't think you'll disappointed no matter which one you pick.

That didn't really make your decision for you...only you can decide what you really need for what you'll be doing. =)

How tall are you? That will make a difference in what length of ski you should be looking for.

This jacket would be excellent for backcountry skiing. The 3-layer Gore-Tex ProShell will keep you dry and the pit-zips will keep you cool while you toil uphill. The hood is listed by Arc'teryx as helmet-compatible as well. What this jacket doesn't have that you might want is a powder skirt.

Because this jacket is Arc'teryx's lightest 3-layer Gore-tex shell, it's designed for light-and-fast travel and doesn't have every bell and whistle on the market (eg. a powder skirt). It is, however, very versatile: skiing, climbing, mountaineering, backpacking...it'll work for them all without having extra features that are ski-specific.

jessica,

These boots would keep your feet toasty and dry, and look pretty cool while they do it. =)

Steve,

Marmot recommends using a Granger's cleaner and waterproofer to restore repellency. Most outdoor stores carry Granger's, but you might have to ask for it. Check out their website: http://www.grangers.co.uk/

I'm not sure exactly what you're asking. If you think of something that's 20" x 10" x 4", that's 800 cu in.

North Face specifies the sleeve length from the centre back to be 33.5 in for the large. The medium is 32.5 and the XL is 34.5.
Measure the distance from the prominent bone at center back neck, across the shoulder, over the bent elbow to the center of the wrist bone.

Good luck!

Hi Kathrynn,

At 120, your weight falls into the XS size, but also at the bottom end of the S. Since you're a bit shorter than the range for S, that's probably why they're bunching behind the knees a bit (just about all of my pants do that...I'm short too). If you have a small and they're comfortable, go with that size. It sounds like the small is tight enough. Why change if the size is working for you?

Happy running!

Easier said than done to get the right size, as I discovered when I moved from Canada to Oz and started asking the reverse question. I'm going to say that you're probably about a size 9.

Yep. The Electron 1, 2, and 3 all come with the footprint, portable attic, etc.

Jonathan,

I can change the units on my Vista HCx to nautical. So, for Distance/Speed, I can choose (among the metric & imperial units) Nautical (nm, kt, ft) or Nautical (nm, kt, m). I can also change depth to fathoms.

I'm not sure about the Nautical charts.

Mauricio,

As long as the GPSr has a pretty good view of the sky (so that it can get a lock on satellites), it will work. That sounds like a great way to use it!

Darlene,

The official specs of the Vista have a temperature range of 5F to 158F (-15C to 70C), but I've used my Vista HCx at colder temperatures than that. Cold temps will make the GPSr take longer to acquire a satellite fix, but it will still work.

This GPSr does have all of the basic features that you would expect. You can track your path, follow the GPSr to a waypoint, etc. That would take care of knowing where you are, how to get back, and how far you've come (just mark your starting point as a waypoint). This GPSr will also tell you your speed on the compass page.

A note: Topographic maps for this GPSr are extra - they can be purchased from Garmin. The Vista does not accept data cards, so you are limited to the 24 MB of internal memory built in. That would probably be enough for most people, but if you're planning on loading a lot of maps, consider a GPSr that will accept memory cards. If you like the Vista interface, the Vista HCx accepts cards (and has a colour screen and some other features).

Good luck choosing!

Dee,

Interesting situation.

Technically speaking, the snowshoes are not left or right specific, but MSR does recommend wearing them such that the tension buckle on the heel is on the inside of the foot.

Retail stores will sell snowshoes in a pair, so if you're looking for a single shoe or a binding change-out, I would suggest contacting MSR. They may have other suggestions as well. The store that you bought them from may be able to do something for you as well if you complain that they sold you a mismatched pair.

Good luck!

According to the Dakine Snow Series Owner's Manual (http://www.dakine.com/assets/dk/SnowPacksTechManual.pdf), the Heli Pro DLX has 3 things that the Heli Pro doesn't:
-Snowboard cross-carry
-Insulated hydration sleeve
-Quick stash waist pocket

The DLX also weighs twice as much (3 lb vs. 1.5 lbs).

Having said that, I was under the impression that the regular Heli Pro had some or all of those features, and looking at the reviews of the regular pack, there are some that say they do, and some that say they don't. Since Dakine appears to have updated their website fairly recently, and it's changed since the last time I looked at it (when it indicated that the regular Heli Pro had those features), I'd assume that the DLX has the 3 features mentioned, and that the regular Heli Pro doesn't.

Confusing?

Bodil,

The size of snowshoe that you get isn't based on your shoe size. The bindings will adjust to whatever size of boot you put in it; size 7 will be no problem.

What should determine which length of snowshoe you get is weight. So, for this snowshoe, the 21 in is recommended for 80-150 lb and the 25 in for 120-200 lb. This weight is your weight, dressed in whatever you're going to be wearing, and including anything that you're going to be carrying. So, if you're going to carry a 20 lb backpack while snowshoeing, add that to your body weight.

The other thing that is a main factor in snowshoe length is the type of snow you're going to be on. If you're going to be on packed or very hard snow, a shorter snowshoe will be ok. If you're planning on being on light fluffy powder, a longer snowshoe will give you more flotation so that you don't sink.

Hope that helps. =)

Nope, no drawstring on them when I was looking (I ended up buying a different brand). If you're using it with a mummy sleeping bag, just wrap it over your head and cinch the hood on the sleeping bag. If you're using it without a sleeping bag...well, I can't think of why I would want it cinched around my head in that case. I've never seen a mummy silk liner with a drawstring around the hood.

The nature of snowshoe bindings (highly adjustable) means that you can wear just about any footwear you want with them, from a light trail shoe, to a hiking boot, to a full-on winter boot. I've seen no shortage of people strap a pair of snowshoes onto their running shoes for a quick jaunt. I generally go for something waterproof, since I hate having wet feet. If it's freezing cold, I wear my insulated winter boots. If it's not too cold, I wear hiking boots, which are ankle height. If I need to, I wear gaiters to keep snow out of the top of my boots.

I'd suggest: wear something comfortable, with the right amount of insulation for the temperature, and think about water resistance. Chances are pretty good that if you're living somewhere you can use snowshoes you already have all the footwear you need in your closet.

Yah, these shoes come with 2 sets of laces, so you can choose which you prefer. The ones that look like normal shoelaces are, well, normal shoelaces. The other pair are elastic with a quick-lock, which makes the shoes faster to get on and off - more like a slip-on (put on, pull, tighten locker). The pic of the shoe at the top of the page shows how the lacing pattern should look.

Personally, I find that the elastic laces are ridiculously long, and when I yank on them they tighten the top of the shoe but not down over my foot to the toes.

Try out both, see which you like better...

Yep, it has a removable Goggle Lock, which the Smith website desribes as "Securely retains the goggle strap on the helmet to ensure comfort and performance". The picture that goes with that description is...a removable goggle clip on the back.

Yep. A hand pocket and a sleeve pocket.

The North Face website specifies that the Hot Shot SE has a tuck-away hipbelt.

Brrrr....

Merino has a lot of increadible properties - because it's wool, it insulates when wet, doesn't get too stinky, has great moisture management properties, and is warm. But, unlike traditional wool clothing, it's fine and soft, so it's super comfortable. I hated my scratchy wool sweaters as a kid (cold Canadian winter...), but I absolutely love my merino clothing. Having said that...it's still wool. If you're truly allergic to wool (and it's not just a general dislike), I'd be cautious of going that route.

I'm going to summarize your requirements for a legging, and you can correct me if I'm wrong. You're looking for something warm, wind resistant, and that looks like normal clothing. Based on the wind resistance, I'd be looking for something like a softshell legging. I would start by looking at winter running or cycling leggings, and hope that I could find something without too many reflective stripes. If you're looking at cycling tights, make sure you check if they have a chamois (a pad through the crotch), since that would definitely qualify as "bulky". A lot of cycling and running clothing might also be listed as "windproof" but if you read the details they just have windproof front panels (for when you're going into the wind).

Most baselayers will have no wind resistance, since they're generally intended to be worn underneath something else.

I'd be looking for something like this (except that this does have a chamois):
http://www.realcyclist.com/roadbike/GBW0059/Gore-Bike-Wear-Sportive-Windstopper-Tight-Womens.html

Kudos to you...when it's that cold, I tend to go for wearing something along the lines of my ski pants...

Good luck finding what you need!

Looks like you twist the front, pop the lens out, change the bulb, and then put it back together in reverse.

Here's the paperwork: http://www.petzl.com/files/all/technical-notice/headlamps/E69P%20DUOLED5%20E69500-L%20.pdf

I'm sure it'll make more sense to you than me, since you're familiar with the light.

Yep.

Here's some info about this light:
Maximum output: 35 lumens

At a given length of battery use (ie. 0 h is new batteries), the distance at which the light from the headlamp is brighter than a full moon on a clear night (0.25 lux is):

At the brightest setting:
0 h = 32 m
0.5 h = 25 m
10 h = 15 m
30 h = 5 m

At the middle setting:
0 h = 23 m
0.5 h = 20 m
10 h = 13 m
30 h = 6 m

At the dim setting:
0 h = 15 m
0.5 h = 14 m
10 h = 11 m
30 h = 9 m

Check this out for the details in a more readable form: http://www.petzl.com/files/all/us/products/comparison/headlamps-performance-table.pdf

kim,

It depends on a few things. First of all, every airline has their own requirements, generally listed on websites, so check the requirements for the airlines you're most likely to use. Keep in mind that there are weight restrictions too.

Having said that, based on the limits for Air Canada, NWA, American Airlines, and Qantas, this bag's too big. You might get away with the 65L on British Airways, but it's borderline. If you're planning on flying on anything other than major routes that might get a smaller aircraft, there's a good chance it just won't fit anywhere you try to put it. Of course, if you're only going to half fill it and then cinch it down to be smaller, then it might work.

If you're looking for something that you want to try to carry on but don't mind checking, then by all means try. If you're looking for a bag that you can count on being able to carry on, go smaller. Probably something 3000 cu in (50L) or less.

Waterproof? No. Water resistant? Yes. Probable ok in a drizzle, wouldn't want to stand around in a downpour for hours with a laptop inside though.

Yep. Check the Help section for the Return Policy and Procedure. Basically, you send the shoes back and get a refund, or an exchange if you want. backcountry.com is good about that.

By the way, you'll get a faster answer to this kind of question by contacting the sales team or clicking "Chat Now" at the top of the screen to talk to a Gear Expert in real time.

From the Brunton website:
Lux rating: 7 (Lantern Mode) - 35 (Flashlight Mode) @ 2 meters

Not from the Brunton website:
Comparing the light from different flashlights, headlamps, etc. can be a tricky business. The best way is by comparing diagrams that show light intensity and spread at different distances from the light and a different distances from the centre of the beam. What a lux measurement really tells you is how good a device is at projecting light over a distance, not the overall brightness or quantity of light produced. This website has the best explanation I've found so far (most of them are so confusing it's not even funny): http://www.flashlightreviews.com/features/lux.htm.

Bascially, this device produces 7 lux (lumens/square metre) in lantern mode and 35 lux in flashlight mode, measured at a distance of 2 m from the light, in the centre of the beam. BUT that doesn't tell you anything about how wide the beam is or how the light intensity changes towards the outer edges of the beam.

So...there's a whole bunch of information for you, but in terms of how that helps you pick a light...? Unless you have something to compare to that uses the same measurement, it doesn't. It would be nice if Brunton would give us the beamshot diagram...

Carry on size restrictions vary from airline to airline, but I haven't found one yet that this pack would fit on. I'm not sure exactly the dimensions without the daypack, but it would change one dimension only. That might put you into a carry-on-able range with some airlines for total dimensions, but I suspect it would still be too long. Airlines have their restrictions on their websites - check a few, expecially the airlines that you're planning on using.

It completely depends on how much stuff you're planning on taking and bringing back. Keep in mind that by month 6 you might be really sick of carrying around the souvenirs from month 1. Mailing home items that you buy is always an option, if not necessarily cheap.

I would argue with Michael about the size. I backpacked for 8 months last year with a 65 L pack and never had a problem, though I had to think about how and what I packed. I was doing a lot of heavy and overnight hiking, so I was carrying a sleeping bag, sleeping mat, boots, a set of clothes for hiking, and a lot of other little things I wouldn't have been if I had been train/bus travelling between fairly urban locations. I was pretty lean on how much city clothes I was carrying, but I managed.

All I can suggest is to figure out how much stuff to want to take, bring home a few packs, and try to pack them. That will really tell you what size of pack you need, as well as what features you need.

The manufacturer makes it in 36D, but backcountry.com seems to not have that size in stock at the moment.

A Gear Expert (click "chat now") might be able to tell you if they're getting more stock and in what sizes.

The sizing chart lists the inseam for the XL as 33" and the XXL as 33.5".

Marmot website doesn't list it in the specs, but in the "press" section, there are 2 articles that peg it at 6 oz (170 g) and one at 6.5 oz (185 g).

I'd say it's pinker than the picture. Hard to describe...a dark pink, but lighter than in the picture. I definitely wouldn't call it maroon.

You'll get a much quicker answer to a stocking question by asking a Gear Expert in Live Chat.

Yes, they have a zipper that goes up to mid-calf, as well as a tab with a hook-and-loop fastener to adjust the width of the bottom of the pant.

Courtney,

The size that you get should be based on your fully loaded weight - meaning your fully clothed body weight plus the gear weight of typical items you would carry in a backpack while snowshoeing.

The recommendations are:
Model 21W for a load of 80-150 lbs
Model 25W for a load of 120-200 lbs

Which length you get also depends on what snow conditions you're planning on using the shoes in. A longer snowshoe will give you more float, and is better for powdery snow. If you're in the range of weights where the sizes overlap, and are planning on using the snowshoes in deep & light snow, size up. If you're planning on using them only on packed trails, the shorter ones would be fine.

I'm not sure what you mean, but I'm going to guess that you're wondering what length of snowshoes would work for someone. The recommendations are: 21in snowshoe for someone 80-150lb (36-68kg); 25in snowshoe for someone 120-200lb (54-91kg)

Is that what you meant?

There's no external water bottle sleeve or pocket. You'd have to put a water bottle in the back or attach it to the outside some other way. The pack is designed to carry a hydration bladder, and has an insulated sleeve for the hose.

Absolutely!

These are an excellent snowshoe for moderate terrain. If you don't already have poles and want some, then this package gives you those, and it's always nice to have something to haul it all around in.

I will warn you though: the Atlas binding design "springs back" into position as you finish your step. That means that, unless you're on really packed snow, you're likely to get snow thrown up onto your butt and back. I'm short; I get the odd bit down my neck too. The binding system is excellent technically, but if you don't want a snowy butt or don't have waterproof pants/jacket, I'd think about going with a different brand.

Matthew,

There are a lot of differences between the Evo Ascents and the Lightning Ascents.

As far as traction: the Evo Ascent has the crampon under the front of the foot and rails down the sides. The Lightning Ascent has a crampon under the front of the foot, two side-to-side serrated pieces, and the entire frame is serrated. So no, the Lightning Ascent definitely does not have less traction.

In terms of differences:
The Evo Ascent has plastic decking. The Lightning Ascent has an aluminum frame and urethane decking.
The Evo Ascent has sold-separately tails that can be added for more float. The Lightning Ascent doesn't, so make sure you get the appropriate length for the conditions you're going to be using it in.
Basically, they're a completely different design.

The only similarities that come to mind are the binding system and the fact that they both have a "televator" system for climbing.

Hope that helps...if you need more info, feel free to ask about specifics. Check out the MSR website too (www.msrcorp.com). It has more detailed info and specs on the two models.

The tent layout and design is the same. The Hubba Hubba has mesh walls, with just the floor and the diamond at the top of the tent being solid material. The Hubba Hubba HP has replaced a lot of the mesh with lightweight solid fabric.

No, but you can either make your own or purchase it separately: http://www.backcountry.com/outdoorgear/MSR-Hubba-Hubba-HP-Footprint/CAS0355M.html?RSC_ID=WR_CAS0355

It's not uncommon for certain sizes or colours to be different sale prices, in any store, due to stocking considerations or some other reason.

Go with the size that's most likely to fit - if you spend $10 less and have a boot that's too big, you're not going to be happy with it, or you'll end up returning it or exchanging it for a smaller size anyway. A good deal isn't a good deal unless it works for you.

rebecca,
This is a backpacking boot and doesn't have a front or rear welt to accept a step-in or semi-automatic crampon. You could use a strap-on crampon for occasional walking use. If you're planning on using the boots with crampons you're probably better off looking at mountaineering boots.

Andrew,
I don't have these poles specifically, but another pair from the series, so I'm going based on that and Leki's specs on this pole compared to the one I have.

I don't think the grips are cork. The Leki website certainly doesn't mention it, and this pole seems to come in two versions (Black and Sahara), which are different colors and have different looking grips. The black looks like foam, and I don't remember them being cork from when I was shopping. The Sahara looks like it might be cork.

I can't really comment on the size of the grip, except that it's supposed to be "a grip designed to fit smaller hands".

I haven't had a problem with the Super Lock system on my Leki poles. I did with a different brand of poles and somewhat different locking system (still a twist lock, but a lot more twisting and a lot more force). Having said that, I haven't had them for years and years, so I don't know how the performance over time is going to be. No problems yet though.

Hope that helps a bit...sorry I couldn't answer all the questions that well.

Looks like most of the winter packs have that pocket. Heli Pro, Tactic, Chute, Blade, Poacher, Guide. From what I can tell, though, the Heli Pack does NOT have a waist belt pocket.

I wore this jacket in a lot of pretty brutal weather last year - fine rain, driving rain, sleet, slush, snow...you name it, we had it. I wear glasses, so keeping water off my face is a pretty big concern.

I never had a problem with the hood. Sure, there were some water droplets on my glasses from time to time, but there wasn't water dripping off my nose. The brim did a good job. I could walk normally; I didn't have to look at the ground any more than I usually do while hiking to watch where I'm going. I didn't use the volume adjustment on the back of the hood, but I cinched the drawstring up a bit around my face if I didn't want the hood to fly off my head in the wind or if I moved my head a lot.

Hope that helps.