Not since high school shop class have I experimented with such a flame thrower. This thing can really heat things- and fast. I am really impressed with the speed the Helios melts snow and ice for water, not to mention the rapid boil times. If you plan to use this stove at altitude or in a storm, make sure your tent has a vestibule. Sometimes we ignore warnings and must cook inside a tent during full alpine conditions- but I wouldn't try that with this beast. The platform is very stable and holds virtually any pot (not just Jetboil pots) with smart, fold-away feet. The igniter may not work in cold or altitude- but any experienced backcountry traveler will know enough to bring a lighter (or three) along anyway. This stove seems to simmer well, but takes a little feathering of the throttle to get it from blast-off mode to a lower setting. Surprisingly, the Helios will actually SAVE gas with its efficiency. Really, really impressed.

I sometimes use other Thermarest pads like the Prolite series for comfort, but for the maximum alpine solution nothing matches the Ridgerest Deluxe. As far as sleeping pads go, this model is overkill for sleeping on anything but snow and ice- unless you are looking for the ultimate cushy sleeping experience. Insulation from the ground is only critical in wintry conditions, as bare ground temps don't really cool enough to notice. But in winter or sleeping on snow or ice, cold can seep through your pad and make for long, sleepless nights. Inflatable pads lose most of their insulating values if they are punctured. On expeditions and climbing trips I can't afford to gamble on durability, so this pad had become my mainstay. Plus, it has an insulating value of R3.1, which is higher than any pad on the market for its weight. Solid, simple, and reliable.

After much obsessing I have yet to find a crampon this lightweight with equal performance in the alpine arena. The Sarkens are extremely versatile. The front points are oriented with both vertical and horizontal bars (essentially a "T" shape) which means they penetrate steep alpine ice AND bite into vert-snow, yet manage to resist sheer in combo-mank. Although, I say "ixnay" on the Sidelock binding system- unless you like a funky fit. The anti-ball plates work well and don't shatter when cold kicking. In my opinion, this is the best all-round performing crampon on the market.

Rarely do you put snowshoes on in the parking lot and keep them on the entire time. If you plan to access backcountry, especially to ski, climb, or ride, you have to expect that these puppies will eventually go on your back. (see image) Therefore, weight and size in a snowshoe is also super important, beyond performance. On the flat stuff most snowshoes work pretty much the same. But with the Lightning MSR has created a fluff flotation device that climbs hills with ease, busts windcrust, spares posthole nightmares, and bites in on side-hill traversing slogs- all in a lightweight design.

Critical to all back country ski endeavors, I also find the Whippet invaluable for approach terrain on expedition climbs and glacier travel. Often times the varied terrain of glaciers and ice falls combine short steps with flat sections, and the Whippet handles both without getting an ice tool out. This is especially handy when slogging a big load. I've even used one to extricate myself from a crevasse fall. The blade is positioned in a perfect "low dagger" climbing angle (see image this page) and even has a palm rest so it won't wear a hole in your gloves.

In my opinion, these are the warmest mitts you can buy. usually with extreme warmth you give up dexterity. Black Diamond solved this issue by carefully designing a trigger finger liner that pulls out of the mitt. When doing so the outer mitt hangs from your wrist by a dummy string. This means that simple activities which are impossible to manage while wearing big mitts can still be accomplished without having to expose a bare hand to the elements. The Absolutes are made for the most extreme cold, but are VERY light for the amount of insulation used. This is important for high altitude climbs because on warmer days, when these mitts will be carried in your pack. The palms are leather and very durable- even after rappels. One note: getting your fingers inside the grip of an ascender while wearing these is nearly impossible.

Thicker, bulkier gloves may be warmer because they are made with more materials. More material- especially in the fingers- some dexterity is lost. The Punishers balance the spectrum between warmth and dexterity well. They are warm enough for zero degree days climbing (plus, I use them for backcountry skiing) but nimble enough to handle most ropes, bindings, and climbing gear while wearing them. One drawback: with no removable liners they dry a bit slow. (See image this page)

The BD Guide excels over other gloves for a few reasons people typically overlook. 1) The articulated fingers mean that gripping poles and tools feel nimble and secure- so your fingers are warm without fighting the fabrics. 2) The removable liner dries quickly- for me, this means overnight in my sleeping bag- so they are not blocks of ice the next day. 3) They withstand rope work very well, including expedition use and rappelling on thin ropes- and the leather palms are super durable and can sill grip frozen lines. Warmth, high performance, durable, and quick drying. Perfect.

Because of the lightweight materials, the Firstlight works best for quick assaults on the steep stuff. It works best in cold and snow since the rain tends to soak the materials. If you are camping in the Sierras for a few weeks it could work, but in the Pacific Northwest or wetter climates, you may get more than damp inside. Also, for expeditions the design could benefit from a few more guy points- which I had custom sewn into mine. Although it will withstand surprisingly high winds (see image) for its weight, a much stronger tent would be the BD Bibler types- like the I-Tent or even Fitzroy. Plus, the Bibler single wall materials seem to breathe much better- so, in my opinion are worth the extra weight. Overall- You might find the disadvantages of size and performance are not worth the advantage of lighter weight.

Bottom Line- when you aren't directly charging your electronics via solar, you can store up charge for later (ie. stormy) days. A power pack is a "must have" item for expeditions, and really broadens the range of charging capabilities. In my opinion, skip the inverter model and get DC chargers (like a car charger) for all of your electronics. The DC-AC inversion uses too much precious power.

Until recently I have used only the Brunton Solaris 26 folding panels for all my expedition charging- but this spring I added the Brunton SolarRoll 14 to the mix. Due to damage suffered during very high winds, both of my Solaris 26 panels were damaged and stopped working on my last expedition in Pakistan, leaving me with only the SolarRoll 14. This one panel charged my laptop, satphone, camcorder batteries, and camera batteries for the entire expedition. Very impressive and more durable than folding types. For longer expeditions get the Brunton Solo Power Pack- a MUST!

For summer or moderate weather activities, wristwatch altimeters are great. But for winter or cold weather, clothing layers and gloves make it difficult to access the watch- especially with an ice tool leash. For winter or cold weather I use an external clip-on altimeter like the High Gear ATF8 (lightest, most functional I've found). I used the Suunto Core (Organge/black)for two Himalayan expeditions in 2008, and the functionality was great, battery life was good, and the black face version was the best for viewing the display on bright days and in snow- especially when wearing eye wear. Also, the buttons do not involuntarily depress against the back of your hand when climbing- a big issue with some other models. However, after 50 days or so, the orange band began to seriously discolor, so I recommended getting the black band version. Also, the threads on the battery cover have now stripped, and I had to send it in. Luckily, Suunto has a strong return policy- at least for a year. Confident 4 stars.

For cold weather and winter climbing or skiing, a clip-on altimeter is far better in my opinion, since I find that a wristwatch is hard to get at under multiple clothing layers or glove/mitten gauntlets- particularity when using an ice tool leash or down jacket. The HighGear AltiTech 2 is a little bigger and heavier than you might expect, but is very durable due to it's beefy construction. It preforms with the same accuracy and quality functionality as all other HighGear products- which in my opinion is equal to Suunto for basic functionality, but at a better price.(I own a few Suunto product also.) However, a different model- the HighGear ATF8- is much lighter, more compact, more streamlined, and just as functional as the AltiTech 2- so I prefer the ATF8 now over the AltiTech 2. Unfortunately, Backcountry.com no longer carries the ATF8.

The way insulation works is to trap warmth in something manufacturers call "Dead Air Space" or DAS. In essence, the more trapped dead air, the warmer the garment. The Monkey Man fleece construction traps air very well, especially under a shell jacket, and is VERY light for the warmth it offers. But where I think this jacket really excels is its ability to vent heat and sweat during activity. I often use the Monkey Man as an outer layer (see image)- even in light snow and wind- due to the breathability of the fleece, and I can therefore better regulate my body temperature. The new generation of Monkey Man fleece is more subject to "pilling" than the older version, and subsequently compresses down in the elbows and under the pack straps after a few weeks of use- but this decrease in durability is still very worth it due to the jacket's overall performance, and I end up buying at least 1 new one every year. The Monkey Man jacket is definitely a MUST HAVE item for all seasons in the outdoors- but especially as an insulating layer during cold weather activities. 5 stars.

This pack is marketed for backpacking, but I have found it invaluable for long approaches, moderate alpine climbing, and high altitude work. For a pack in this price range I expected the Gregory Shasta to be a little uncomfortable, but after three seasons of slogging heavy loads up all kinds of terrain, I have come to trust this pack for all my heavy duty work. It is important to remember that each pack fits every person differently, but if this pack fits your body style like it does mine (20-21 inch torso, narrow-er waist, pack size L), even 60+lbs of gear will ride like a dream. The suspension is smart but simple, transferring weight to the hips well, but then feels like a piece of clothing when cinched tight for steeper terrain. The Shasta seems to easily adjust to fit over everything from down jackets to single base layers, pending you buy a model where your torso size in nearer the bottom the size range- which is my suggestion. The materials are rugged and have suffered no tears or rips against 3 years of rock and ice, and the beefy zippers have managed many serious over-stuffings. The hipbelt mounted waterbottle holster is very nice for drinking on the fly. Simple, strong, no frills, and carries well during all activities.

Fortunately I wasn't attached to them at the time, but I recently dropped a pair of these and watched them fall out of sight. Four days later I found them in a steep, rock gully nearly 2000 feet below. Aside from some scratches, the Phenom's survived that abuse well- so I give these goggles a 10-outa-10 in the durability department. I chose the Sensor Mirror lens to cover a wide range of light conditions, and found this tint a little light for bright, sunny days- but in low light conditions and flat overcast they were awesome. The fan worked well even while sweating during -35F climbing days, an impressive contrast in temperatures. I found the lowest of 2 fan speed setting too low to have any affect, so bring an extra battery and expect to use the higher speed setting if you plan on working up a sweat. Downside- the hum of the fan can be a little annoying after 10 hours.

For me, lightweight is key. After much research, I chose the Meteor for all my alpine endeavors for functionality, fit, and most of all, an 8oz overall weight. To date, this helmet is the lightest climbing bucket on the market- at least the one that fits my melon. (fit is key- I have a medium/slightly narrow sized noggin) I can manage 1-2 layers of insulation underneath and still have a relatively comfortable fit. The adjustment feature on the Meteor is a bit crude, but still works pretty well, which is important if you plan to use it in varying conditions. Other cc-foam type helmets tend to be made a little larger and rounder, making them impossible to wear under a shell hood when the nasty hits. Plus, the slimline Meteor won't make you look like Mr. Kazoo-head.

For sport climbing or long, hard rock routes I choose a harness with more padding and better gear loops, but for alpine work- especially mountaineering, high altitude, long moderate rock routes, or ski mountaineering- this is the best harness I have found. At 10oz, the Pandion is among the lightest harnesses available. It is a super-simple design that easily adjusts with gloves on during cold weather climbs, and the quick-adjust buckles eliminate having to thread material with frozen fingers. It expands large enough to wear over a down suit, yet can be cinched down to fit over a single layer. (I'm 6'2, 190lbs with a smaller waist size and above average thigh diameter) I don't know why BC.com suggest using this for gym-climbing, as I find it uncomfortable to hang in, and sometimes it gets a little painful during rappels. Downside: It would be nice to have a gear loop on both sides.

Again, weight is key for all my alpine gear, but the Z55 is very light without compromising performance. In my opinion, 55 liters is a perfect size for alpine climbing, and this pack can carry plenty more than that on the outside with good strap system and a handy, large external pouch on the back. A smart design feature enables mid-pack access via a zipper, enabling packed gear extraction without undoing the top pack. One of the best features are 2 zip pouches on the hip belt, great for carrying small items like goggle wipes, candy bars and performance gels- a must for snacking on the go. The Z55 has a snug, close fit, which is great for scrambling and climbing. The top pack zipper did break this year after over 100 days of use, but I called Gregory and they said it would be fixed under warranty. In my opinion, the only pack matching the Z55 for performance and features is the Black Diamond Quantum- but the Quantum can carry a less shtuff on the outside and is almost 1/2 pound heavier.

I traded my usual tried and true Julbo Nomads for a pair Smith Moguls on my last expedition. I decided to make the change for three reasons: 1st, the Smith Moguls fit my face well- which is key in blocking out solar rays and snow reflection, 2nd, because of the polarchromic function, and 3rd, the wider side frames blocked out reflected light.

I found the polarchromic function subtle- that is, the difference between bright and overcast conditions didn't change the lens tint a whole lot- but this doesn't really matter since I found the glass lenses crystal clear and the tint appropriate in all light conditions. The hinges on these glasses are bulletproof, and they survived my expedition abuse well, including a number of drops from head height.

As for durability, I found the lens almost impossible to scratch, but the silver accent on one side of the frame fell off the first week of wear. We'll see how good Smith's warranty is.

After careful research I chose the BD Spot for climbing, rescue, and back country trips. I looked for three main functions: weight, brightness, and battery life. The BD Spot might not be the brightest headlamp you can buy, but it casts a surprising long beam when in long mode- which is plus even though that is the least frequently used mode. In the lowest setting, the Spot lasts 120 hours with lithium batteries. I've abused mine in serious rain and extreme cold- and it worked every time. I've dropped it on rock a few times and it has survived well squished between other gear in the top pocket of my pack. For me, the best features are that the Spot weighs in at less than 3oz with batteries and has no external wire- a plus if you plan (or didn't plan) on bush-wacking in the dark.

On the 2008-9 Broad Peak Winter expedition I used the Icebreaker GT 220 as a second layer over the Icebreaker Bodyfit 150 Atlas top. This was the first time I tried merino wool instead of my usual polypro base layer and fleece system. In short, I was impressed. Even after a good sweat-session in high winds and low temps, the wool seemed to maintain its warmth better than fleece/polypro combo- even though it is a bit heavier. As a second layer, the GT fit well with its athletic cut, but I think it's a little loose for a base layer. I used my non-hooded version more often than the hooded one, as too many hooded layers can bunch up behind the neck. The GT is my now my personal standard for cold weather second layer.

I first tried the 150 Atlas on my recent winter expedition as a base layer under the Icebreaker GT 220 jacket/shirt. I was a little hesitant to change from polypro on such an important trip, and brought my regular base laters just in case- but after the first few climbs up the mountain I was really impressed and never looked back. I am 6'2 190lbs but used the large size to ensure a snug fit- which not only improves layering but is warmer and helps with muscle support during activity. I was told that merino wool would stretch but the Atlas top held its shape (mostly), even after weeks of constant wear, and then it returned to a snug fit after each hand wash. The wicking ability of this shirt is really amazing. Downside: I felt a little itchy at times, but this is a small price to pay for such major improvements in my base layer performance.

I think the only tool that compares to the BD Venom for technical alpine climbs or for high altitude mountaineering, is the Petzl Aztarex- mainly because nothing compares with these two tools for their lighter weight. But during such climbs- especially those with long sections of steep snow- the Venom excels over the Aztarex for a few reasons, but one in particular: it plunges well. The Venom also climbs through technical sections and mixed terrain with great balance and feel- even on vertical and bullet-hard ice- but MOST importantly it climbs securely in steep snow due to a smooth grip/shaft transition and a sharp spike, which is key for self-belay and anchoring. Other tools with molded handles and finger supports do not plunge well, and the Aztarex has a hollow, open shaft which fills up with snow. I've tried and compared many tools from all major brands, and for weight, durability, climbing versatility, leash, and interchangeable picks, nothing currently on the market compares with Venom for alpine climbing. Make sure to buy the Tech Picks, unless you intend to climb only snow- and then you should go for an even lighter tool than the Venom.

For climbs with longer hard technical sections or difficult mixed climbing, I prefer the Petzl Quark.

I think the only tool that compares to the BD Venom for technical alpine climbs or for high altitude mountaineering, is the Petzl Aztarex- mainly because nothing compares with these two tools for their lighter weight. But during such climbs- especially those with long sections of steep snow- the Venom excels over the Aztarex for a few reasons, but one in particular: it plunges well. The Venom also climbs through technical sections and mixed terrain with great balance and feel- even on vertical and bullet-hard ice- but MOST importantly it climbs securely in steep snow due to a smooth grip/shaft transition and a sharp spike, which is key for self-belay and anchoring. Other tools with molded handles and finger supports do not plunge well, and the Aztarex has a hollow, open shaft which fills up with snow. I've tried and compared many tools from all major brands, and for weight, durability, climbing versatility, leash, and interchangeable picks, nothing currently on the market compares with Venom for alpine climbing. Make sure to buy the Tech Picks, unless you intend to climb only snow- and then you should go for an even lighter tool than the Venom.

For climbs with longer hard technical sections or difficult mixed climbing, I prefer the Petzl Quark.

During my 2008-9 winter expedition to the Pakistan, Karakoram, I made a radical shift from using polypro/fleece in my layering system to utilizing wool components. The cold weather performance difference was significant. To continue with wool in all aspects of layering, I chose the Backcountry.com Wool Hoody to layer over my Icebreaker merino base layers. I was surprised to find this system was much warmer and more efficient at moisture transport than any cold weather system I have used to date. I was even able to use this jacket as an outer layer on moderately cold days- as long as I kept climbing hard enough to generate some warmth. The athletic cut of this jacket fits me well, but I would prefer a drawcord at the waist to keep warmth in and the snow and wind out. The hood is also close fitting and not bulky, working well with outer shell hoods. This jacket will be a great mid-weight fleece for summer trips. As a bonus, when walking through airports on the trip home I didn't feel like the usual shaggy-fleeced Muppet.

For less than 100 bucks, there isn't a better pair of mountaineering specs out there. Like other gear, fit is key, so if the Nomads fit your face like they do mine(kinda narrow) they cut out both the suns rays and reflections off snow and ice. The Nomads are light and durable, which is important for carrying in your pack on goggle days. I find that I need to replace mine at least once a year, but perhaps my usage is above average. After many cleanings, the reflective coating on the lens begins to rub off. The detachable side shields sound cool, but I never detach them. I have found these glasses to be between average and above-average for ventilation and fogging.

This tent is my choice for alpine pushes and high altitude climbs for 2 or even 3 people. (3 is a squeeze, but for light and fast ascents it works) The material BD utilizes is strong and outperforms other single wall tents for breathability. The material also seems to dry quickly when wet.

Like all single wall tents, expect some condensation and ice buildup inside, but this can be reduced by a smart venting system. The Tempest can be set up completely from the inside, and in super strong winds I've been forced to throw my pack and myself inside and set up the whole thing with only the lee-side door open- a feature that could save your life one day- or at least a few fingers.

I wish BD would sew on a few more guy points to increase strength and tie-down places. It would be also cool to see a tie-in point for securing occupants when pitched in precarious placements or narrow ledges. The tent has a small footprint so it can be pitched on smaller platforms. I am 6'2 and the 2 vestibules help keep accumulating snow off the head and feet- a real benefit for taller people. I also own a Fitzroy, and in comparison the Tempest's 2 vestibules are a REAL benefit and worth the extra weight and money. If you're considering one of the two, choose the Tempest.

FYI, never fold and roll this tent (or any tent)- always stuff it, and store it in a large cotton bag or large pillow case, not the stuff sack it comes with. Also, the stuff sack BD supplies sucks (or it did- maybe they changed it) Buy a silicon compression sack and carry the poles separately.

The Stoic will match heavier "garbage-bag-tex" materials for weatherproofness, but outperforms those same jackets when it comes to weight and breathability. Not enough people buy a shell for the material, and focus too much on looks and the label. Backcountry.com did some thinking when they designed the Stoic, and for a shell weighing in at only 14oz, managed an impressive, functional jacket- but without bells and whistles. If you are choosing an activity where you must carry your shell at points (warmer backcountry days, overnight trips, backpacking, etc) the Stoic is a perfect choice. Buy it one size larger unless you are looking for a strictly summer, snug fit. I'm 6'2 190 and a large fits but is too small with heavy fleece underneath. Also, my climbing helmet fits under the hood- but just.

I prefer the slightly simpler and lighter Westcomb Phantom Jacket for extended backcountry trips and serious alpine endeavors, but this is my choice for day-slogs, riding lifts, or yo-yo skinning in the nasty. The Mirage really excels when covering big vert changes or on soupy days when temperatures can fluctuate back and forth between butt-cold and mild. It actually "BREATHES", contrary to the way this word has been marketed in the past with other fabrics. eVent has unlocked the secret of how to make shtuff that blocks the elements without having to wear the suffocating PU-membrane-garbage-bag-Tex of yesterday (finally), and in the Mirage, Westcomb worked it into a smart design. Nice.

La Sportiva Spantiks definitely fill a gap in my footwear arsenal. I use La Sportiva Olympus Mons for absolute warmth up high, but this style of boot doesn't climb vertical like the Spantiks can. So for more technical terrain up to low 8000 meters, the Spantiks are my boot choice. With the full Vibram Montagna sole they excel on rock or ice, and can be made even warmer with a supergaiter or overboot- without compromising climbing performance. I find the Spantik a bit too stiff for long slogs or lengthy approaches (unless mostly on snow) and I think are a little more at home on moderate-to-difficult, steeper terrain. As with all footwear, fit is key. I have a flatter, lower volume foot with a narrow heel.

Base layers are a critical component in my clothing system- if you can call it a system. The two primary features I look for are moisture transportation and insulation- but under Armour's stink-proofing called ArmourBlock, is also nice for mitigating confined space living violations. The interior of the ColdGear 2.0 fabric has a waffle pattern which seems to trap heat well but also breathes when working hard. This isn't under Armour's compression fitted stuff, but still fits snug. Black is the only color I use for heat retention. For extreme cold, go for the Base 3.0, but for skiing, slogging, or active sports, this stuff is freakin' great.

This stove is THE standard expedition stove. Over the the last 5 years, I've used this stove on expeditions to K2, Annapurna, Broad Peak, Cho Oyu, and countless other forays in Asia and North America. It is lightweight, tough, compact. Most of all, nothing matches a Jetboil for heating vs. efficiency. Field cleaning is easy and effective- even if you spill glop directly on the burner. The newer version igniters work in cold and at altitude. On my most recent expedition I had the chance to compare this stove to the MSR Reactor. In cold an at altitude the Jetboil so outperformed the MSR that we finally abandoned the Reactor completely. Get the hanging kit, too. You'll thank me later.

We had two of the Jetboil GCS stoves going all night at Camp 4 (26,500ft, -20F) before summiting K2 in 2007. You would expect something that works so consistently in such harsh environments to be heavy, but the GCS is about as light as it gets for a cooking system. I literally depend on these stoves for my life, having to melt ice to get water. I do keep them well maintained though, which is easy with a Jetboil Maintenance and Repair kit, which I always carry in my pack. I love the hanging kit as well.

The "one thing does it all" concept almost never works, especially with boots, but here's one of those rare exceptions. If you have some vertical terrain or ice work on your trip, the Nepal EVO's are certainly at home in the more technical world- but your feet won't suffer on the approach hike in. These boots are the bomb for moderately cold weather, ice, snow, or mixed mountaineering. I've use them to establish our lower camps on peaks like K2, Annapurna, Broad Peak, etc. Unless you are prone to cold feet, these boots would work well on Mera, Island, or Orizaba and the other SA volcanoes. For increased versatility, I combine them either a gaiter and/or supergaiter to extend their cold weather range. Although you'll likely never find a better performing boot in this category, as with all footwear, fit is key. I have a flatter, low volume foot with a narrow heel.

In my opinion, the Exum is THE approach shoe. Period. Comfy shoes with a great lacing system. I run, scramble and train in this shoe, plus use them for my long 4-7 day expedition approach hikes (like Annapurna, K2, etc). They climb moderate rock routes with surprising agility, provided the feet inside them know what they're doing. These shoes have a short break-in period for my feet, and I also order them one half size (euro size) larger. I'm super hard on approach shoes, and find the Exum Ridge to be above average in durability. Remember, fit is everything, so even though you may like the Exum Ridge shoe, make sure they fit well. I have a flatter, low volume foot with a narrow heel.

About 3/4 of my SAR team colleagues have these. They are light, comfortable hikers, yet have the support for moderate crampon work and high angled environs. The seem to excel on moderate rock and scrambling, making them an great boot for the mountain rescue application. The Trango S are not insulated, so extended periods in snow my result in cold feet. These boots are made with cutting edge design and materials for unparalleled weight and performance, making them a little vulnerable to wear and tear. If you are looking for more durability, I suggest the Glacier or Glacier Evo, but if you are looking for performance, look no further.