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Dow Williams

Climber // Trail Runner // AT Skier // Paddler

Dow Williams: #304 of 93,508 Top 500 Gear Guru More Information

34 Reviews:

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  • Stomping Grounds:

    Saint George, Utah and Canmore, Alberta
  • Bio:

    Henry David Thoreau: "I went to the woods because I wished to live deliberately, to front only the essential facts of life, and see if I could not learn what it had to teach, and not, when I came to die, discover that I had not lived."

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They Stick....

They Stick....

La Sportiva Miura Climbing Shoe - Men's

September 5, 2009

Sandstone runout slab, Snow Canyon State Park, Utah

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Somehow

MontBell Extremely Light Down Jacket - Men's

MontBell Extremely Light Down Jacket - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 October 18, 2009

they appear to have shaved an ounce off of their previously light weight jacket....this one is down to 5.7 oz! No pockets, no frills...perfect for winter desert belays or Canadian Rockies summer belays....of course you would not want to try and climb in it....I love the weight in terms of strapping its self contained bag to my harness, would also consider it a mid layer ski and ice climbing opt.

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well done

Petzl Zipka Plus Headlamp

Petzl Zipka Plus Headlamp

Rating for this product: 5 October 18, 2009

...biggest light for the weight, compact and easy for keeping warm during ice climbing season, easy to wear helmet or sans helmet....just hard to beat, best lamp I have owned to date

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Improvement...

Black Diamond Dynex Sewn Runners

Rating for this product: 4 September 6, 2009

over Mammut (which I have used for years) and I will tell the simple reason why...Mammut covers their stitching...which was done to allow ropes to run over the sling easier. I really don't thing that is an issue on a sling this size and was always a bit uncomfortable having any portion of my sling hidden. Too much rock fall in my next of the woods.

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Many years now...

Osprey Packs Atmos 35 Backpack - 1900-2300cu in

Rating for this product: 5 September 6, 2009

my number one pack, the air ventilation system they developed against your back, along with egomaniacally correct hip belt has yet to be matched. Not sure why not. I have every size with Osprey and use the 35 the most for trad and waterfall ice. Zippers will give out first, but about the same time you will start to develop a hole or two in the bottom of the fabric as well. All normal for the full time abuse on limestone and sandstone that I give them.

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes | 0 No

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Problem...

Outdoor Research Exos Softshell Pant - Men's

Outdoor Research Exos Softshell Pant - Men's

Rating for this product: 2 September 5, 2009

this was my go to alpine pant, alpine climbing, ice climbing or backcountry skiing....had two pair last me forever and put up with a ton of abuse before failing at the seams...but OR has gone the way of so many other clothing companies, keeping the obese happy and stiffing us fit normal dudes at 5'11", 150lbs I guess I am a bit wormy, but when I put on a new small pair of these (had not bought any in years), my wife said forget function, she absolutely would not allow it. They were a foot off the floor! Guess I have to find an alpine clothing company willing to make a reasonable inseam length for somebody with a 30" waist (ok, more like 28"!).

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Talus Pants

Mountain Hardwear Talus Pant - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 September 5, 2009

Huge fan of this pant....can't even look at 9 out of 10 pants because they won't make the inseam long enough for a climber at 5'11", 150lbs, did not know I was such an abnormality. Anyway, the pRana Canyoneering pant was a good pant, made a long inseam, but the built in belt was breaking on all of them, so broke down and just decided to buy a pant with loops....and this is a tough pant, willing to put up with a lot of abrasion (I mostly climb limestone and sandstone)...best improvement for me was the ease of opening the front pockets with one hand while belaying...vs how pRana had done that Canyoneering pant with too small of a zipper cord.

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Very Happy..

La Sportiva Wildcat Trail Running Shoe - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 September 5, 2009

with this shoe. Made the switch off of Salomon, where I was forever with trail runners, to this more practical shoe (tired of the broken laces on the Salomon's). So now La Sportiva owns me for climbing, approach and train running shoes!

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Been around, come back to them...

Mammut Phoenix Climbing Rope - 8mm

Rating for this product: 5 September 5, 2009

I climb hard rock and ice, have every dimension and length of rope known to man...but for the Canadian Rockies' hard alpine routes, long approaches with 5.10 and up climbing....this is what I want. Beal Ice Lines are more for ice. Edelweiss Sharp 8.5's still to heavy. Have had several set of these, and they handle the best for doubles when weight means a lot.

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I love Smartwool T's..but...

Backcountry.com Merino Crew Shirt - Short-Sleeve - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 September 5, 2009

Backcountry did as good a job with this shirt for less $$$. Wool is the only undergarmet I wear, and was living on Smartwool's thin wicking T. But this shirt is actually a better fit for me and less $$$. Love it.

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Miura

La Sportiva Miura Climbing Shoe - Men's

La Sportiva Miura Climbing Shoe - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 September 5, 2009

Main climbing shoe for years now..go through several pair per year, climbing full time. Both hard desert climbing as well as Bugaboo alpine granite.

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Update

Outdoor Research Contour Windshirt - Men's

Outdoor Research Contour Windshirt - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 April 23, 2009

Well the American obesity thing continues to affect my shoe size, pant size and shirt size. I guess I am shrinking! Anyway, OR is still making the best tech alpine climbing shirt in the biz, but the sizes have grown. At 150lbs, I am clearly a small now. Even considering it goes over another shirt as a pull over. Backcountry.com is now offering a new color compared to everybody only having black for the longest time, which of course sucks on sun baked routes. I would not buy a black climbing shirt. The whole idea of this product is you can't get too hot in it (unless it is black), as it protects you from the wind or light rain.

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Update

prAna Stretch Zion Pant - Men's

prAna Stretch Zion Pant - Men's

Rating for this product: 4 April 8, 2009

Unfortunately, they obviously have an issue with the built in belt breaking far before the pants are shredded. I climb sandstone and limestone 24/7, the material is the toughest climbing pant out there in terms of putting up with climbing abuse, however the belts all break and this is commonly reported on reviews. My solution was to have my sister-in-law (thank god I know someone who sews, because no one in this household can) sew in addition belt loops (one is already on the pant) so I can use a belt with them. Also, more sad news for those of us who are skinny and tall. They no longer do the standard 33" inseam, now a "small" is quite wide and short, to fit where America is heading. I realize us skinny and fit climbing dudes are obviously not their most profitable market, despite this being the best climbing pant out there in my opinion. I still cannot find a better replacement, so still worth buying at the moment.

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Ge

Omega Pacific Link Cam

Omega Pacific Link Cam

Rating for this product: 5 April 8, 2009

Know how to place them, know their range. I had a partner who stuck the #2 in a .5" crack. Yes, they cam down to their core, but you will not get them out. Just like all cams, you stick them that tight, they are not safe pro either. Know their range. They now have a .75 and .5. That .5 is excellent for a variable piece to supplement your .3, .4 and .5. This will end up being one of the most used pieces on my rack as I don't always carry double those sizes.

At first I didn't grasp the concept and what they were trying to achieve. As mostly a technical alpine climber, I saw the cams as too heavy which offset the range advantage. But as I came to understood they were only going to make a few as truly a supplement to your rack, I got it. Very nice. I reach for them all the time. Really solid product, actually allows you to take less into the backcountry at the end of the day.

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Makes Sense...

Black Diamond Pick Protector

Black Diamond Pick Protector

Rating for this product: 5 February 20, 2009

The one I use is just for the pick since I have hammers on the other side like most of you probably do. Bottom line, I usually tape my picks when I pack them for travel, but this deal is nice 24/7, saves the taping and good for use in the field as well.

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Don't see the use

Black Diamond Tool Box

Black Diamond Tool Box

Rating for this product: 2 February 4, 2009

I already use a traditional Black Diamond ice screw storage wrap. My crampon bag tore up so thought I could use this to store an additional 6 screws with my crampons. The photo and description Black Diamond uses leads you to believe there are sleeve protectors built in this product to protect the threads. There are not. Therefore the extra bulk of this product does nothing but add additional weight in my opinion. Better off keeping your crampons and screws separate and tidier in my opinion.

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Incredible piece I think, good value

Backcountry.com Prime Agnello Top - Long-Sleeve - Men's

Backcountry.com Prime Agnello Top - Long-Sleeve - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 December 29, 2008

needed to replace what I use as a mid weight layer due to wear and tear on the old set. Incredible piece. Folks complain about it being to small or short. I think that must be because people are just getting more obese than anything. M seems to fit me like any medium would, kind of wide at the bottom really. Made the forearm tough and technical which is good for ice climbing, thumb hole and all

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Sold Out

The belts quick working...

prAna Stretch Zion Pant - Men's

prAna Stretch Zion Pant - Men's

Rating for this product: 3 December 16, 2008

I am a 28 waist. Built in belt has to work for us climbers or we are climbing with the pants down to our ankles. Just a bad visual any way you look at it. Please fix next go around prAna. Best pant out there otherwise and you offer them in "long" as I recall, which is good for us skinny climbing dudes. Thanks.

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes | 2 No

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Ringer

SmartWool Ringer T-Shirt - Short-Sleeve - Men's

SmartWool Ringer T-Shirt - Short-Sleeve - Men's

Rating for this product: 3 November 21, 2008

Not my favorite although I am a huge fan of Smartwool in general. I prefer their microweight T 90% of the time as my base layer and winter desert climbing in the NTS. This product fits somewhere in between the purposes of those two.

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When I became ...

CAMP USA Ball Nut

CAMP USA Ball Nut

Rating for this product: 4 November 21, 2008

a huge fan was on Arrow Place at Red Rocks using my partners Ball Nut. Better really for aid and granite routes, but we find our purpose for these bad boys in the sandstone at times. A savior at the start of Arrow Place where cacti wait patiently below the crux decking move.

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Smartwool

SmartWool Sport NTS T-Shirt - Short-Sleeve - Men's

SmartWool Sport NTS T-Shirt - Short-Sleeve - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 November 18, 2008

I am exclusively Smartwool as my base layer now days. This is a high end version that works well soaking up sun in the winter months on desert rock. Does not catch as bad as the basic product of Smartwool I mostly use and quite a bit heavier and durable as well. Would be to warm in the desert summer though.

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A must to include with the offsets

DMM Peenuts

DMM Peenuts

Rating for this product: 5 November 17, 2008

DMM brought back the offset nuts. A must in the southern desert sandstone flaring cracks and damn handy in the Canadian Rockies as well. Only set I carry now. Have no idea why I would need any others.

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actually work!

Julbo Looping Sunglasses - Infant

Julbo Looping Sunglasses - Infant

Rating for this product: 5 November 17, 2008

Trying buying sunglasses that stick on your kids or grand kids at this age (1-2). We take our grandson climbing and with our intense sun, you can't go without. But of course they want to yank off every two seconds as well. They designed these to stay on remarkably well and of course are durable enough to be terrorized by the little one. Pleasantly surprised they worked.

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Exum Ridge

La Sportiva Exum Ridge Shoe - Men's

La Sportiva Exum Ridge Shoe - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 November 17, 2008

My new approach weapon for the Canadian Rockies and desert climbing. I normally prefer trail runners for desert approaches and a light boot for Canadian Rockies approaches. This is a wonderful hybrid that my wife had turned me onto....that gets both jobs done well with little weight, which is a factor since we are normally carrying our boots/shoes up and over a route. Takes the scree bashing fairly well in comparison to others.

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A must

DMM Offset Set #7-11

DMM Offset Set #7-11

Rating for this product: 5 November 13, 2008

DMM brought back the offset nuts. A must in the southern desert sandstone flaring cracks and damn handy in the Canadian Rockies as well. Only set I carry now. Have no idea why I would need any others.

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Bad Deal, avoid the hassle

Oakley Thump Pro 1GB Sunglasses

Oakley Thump Pro 1GB Sunglasses

Rating for this product: 1 October 29, 2008

I owned the first model of Thumps. It served me well as I am an avid runner. However, once it failed and I had to replace it, I ran into serious problems. I bought this model TWICE from Backcountry, having to return it both times as it immediately malfunctioned on my first run each time out. I am computer literate enough to know this is simply a defective product. Of course it cost me return shipping and hassle both times and I would never try Oakley Thump again. Cheers.

Helpful Votes: 3 Yes | 0 No

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The Pig...

Petzl Mini Traxion Pulley

Petzl Mini Traxion Pulley

Rating for this product: 5 March 20, 2008

what we been using to haul a small bag up on these OW and Chimney routes at Red Rocks, i.e. Epinephrine and Lady Wilson's Cleavage....with a Black Diamond Guide and double ropes, I rig both the 2nd and the bag at the same time. The 2nd is still within reach obviously if he/she needs to help the pig through a tight squeeze....does not take much elbow grease to haul a desert sized bag up...in fact, can bring both up at the same time, just like two climbers...this pulley catches and holds...thus why you need it if you are going with my method...real light weight and works like a charm.

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Unbelievable...

Salomon XA Comp 3 GTX Trail Running Shoe - Men's

Salomon XA Comp 3 GTX Trail Running Shoe - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 March 12, 2008

how long a pair of these have lasted for me. I use to be a competitive trail runner and these shoes are too heavy for that. But I won a pair and used them for short summer approaches in the Canadian Rockies. But since I have been spending more time in Southern Utah, I find they are my primary approach shoes for Red Rocks and Zion. On long rock climbs, many times your descent will not be conducive to coming back to the base of the route, thus you have to biner your shoes to your harness. These are light enough to make that work, yet, incredibly durable....I am already a huge fan of Salomon's lace technology and do trail run in a lighter version of this shoe, but appreciate the Gortex, toe cap and just plain ruggedness of this heavier shoe that serves as my primary approach shoe and lasts forever in the desert.

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes | 0 No

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Amber Black Iridium

Oakley Half Jacket Sunglasses - Polarized

Oakley Half Jacket Sunglasses - Polarized

Rating for this product: 5 December 28, 2007

Been climbing in the VR28 Oakley lens for ever...problem is I broke both pair of my full metal jacket VR28s on climbing outing within a month of each other and had been climbing in these same two pair for years. Of course Oakley can't stand to keep a good thing going, so no more Full Metal Jacket which I prefer....worse thing was finding a reasonable small Oakley design with polarized lens that was any good for climbing. Most lens tints are way to dark and don't function well in corners and shade when on the rock. That VR28 was the ticket until I found these Amber Black Iridium. Tremendous contrast which is a must when climbing and scouting out the smallest of features. Cheers.

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Excellent

Outdoor Research Contour Windshirt - Men's

Outdoor Research Contour Windshirt - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 December 27, 2007

Just had the opportunity to test this 'true' windshirt out on Red Rocks during several windy and cold days. Outstanding mobility, protection and durability. Huge fan of OR to begin with, but just another example of them going the extra mile here. Was impressed how little it snagged on approach and how well it protected against the harsh winds, yet was so supple on a technical route. Cheers.

Helpful Votes: 6 Yes | 0 No

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Tech Hoody

Arc'teryx Covert Hoody Jacket - Women's

Arc'teryx Covert Hoody Jacket - Women's

Rating for this product: 5 December 27, 2007

Got this for my wife at xmas, she loves it. Very nice, sporty and athletic. Fits to size.

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes | 0 No

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Impressed

Outdoor Research Celestial Jacket - Women's

Outdoor Research Celestial Jacket - Women's

Rating for this product: 5 September 5, 2007

huge OR fan anyway and bought my wife this jacket for a trip into the Bugs once I discovered she did not have a light and bomber rain layer for climbing. Everything she had was too heavy to haul up technical routes. Every year, I become more weight sensitive and this jacket pacifies that sensitivity coming in at 10.2oz, yet has Gore Tex PacLite which really beads up the rain. She loves it (just don't cross any barbed wire fences with it on!) and watch that textured limestone.

Helpful Votes: 2 Yes | 0 No

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SmartWool Microweight T Shirt

SmartWool Microweight T-Shirt - Short-Sleeve - Men's

SmartWool Microweight T-Shirt - Short-Sleeve - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 August 14, 2007

OR, Mountain Hardwear...they all quit making my favorites, so I have to go shopping again by the time I wear out the old ones...this is my latest first layer choice...perfect, so I am sure it will be discontinued soon. Wicks and dries better than anything prior did.

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes | 0 No

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Good Boots

Montrail Stratos XCR Hiking Boot - Men's

Montrail Stratos XCR Hiking Boot - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 August 10, 2007

This is the product I am using below full shank crampon acceptable boots. The Canadian Rockies scree will destroy them, but not any quicker than a boot/shoe that cost twice as much. Extremely comfortable and breathable. Just an approach shoe with a high ankle. Fairly sticky on rock. My 2nd pair of Montrails, have switched to these guys for approach shoes, which requires a blue collar performance from my closet.

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First Time

Petzl Quark Ice Axe

Petzl Quark Ice Axe

Rating for this product: 5 January 30, 2006

Wow. I have not updated my old tools yet. A friend of mine let me have a go today with these. It’s a huge difference. They worked well over bulges or vertical. He claims everybody is using them in the Canadian Rockies. I would not know about that, but I was impressed today. I’m shopping for them now.

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