It almost feels like you have to break the frame to get the lens out. Once you learn to manhandle the A-frames properly, it's easy (without actually harming the goggles). Just be careful not to scratch your lenses during the switch. I try to grab the lens with the oakley lens cloth so I don't smudge the lens or scratch it.

Oakley's website has a sweet lenses simulation that will allow you to demo each lens type as well as compare it to naked eye or to another lens type.

I live in Alaska and ski in flat light conditions frequently. I use high-intensity (read: high contrast) yellow lenses and often can see fine when my buddies have no idea where they're going (using amber or dark lenses). This lenses don't help much in bright sun, though. I use black iridium for bright conditions. Some people like to use one lens for all conditions. I say good luck to that!

I live in Alaska and run in sub-zero conditions. I would never wear my Alchemy jacket on a run--I would sweat too much. And 5 miles is my average run length too. I'd much prefer a baselayer, thin midlayer and then some sort of ultralightweight wind shell.

I have the Alchemy jacket and love it; however, I have never and never plan on running in it--I would be too hot. I live in Alaska and even when the temps are below 0, I still wouldn't want that much warmth when I'm running. A good layering system would be far lighter and breath better for running. But I love the jacket--have used it for skiing, ice climbing and around town. Super durable and looks sexy hot.

I'm 5'7", 160 lbs. but I lift so I have a large chest and lats making it really hard for me to fit stuff right cuz I have a short torso. I got a large and it fits me great. So for you, I'd definitely get an XL. The large doesn't look big on me, but I still have plenty of room underneath to layer. It's by no means tight. Also, I have the hooded version of this jacket--but that shouldn't change anything since these are almost identical (hood and the fact that the hooded version has a zipper storm flap).

What is a CREE LED? I have this headlamp and love it (use it for night ice climbing and pretty much everything else) but haven't heard of specific LED types. I'm not doubting its existence--I am just interested in products details.

I have two CamelBak M.U.L.E.s and one smaller hydration pack. All have come with bladders. I will go out on a limb and guarantee that a CamelBak brand 70oz. hydration pack comes with a reservoir/bladder.

The Quark excels at vertical and overhanging ice due to its curve and shape. The Aztar is more of a hybrid axe--something that will perform adequately in certain technical conditions while still functioning somewhat as a straight-shaft tool for less vertical conditions.

A few minor changes have occurred over the years. You can add the griprests to the older model. Also, I believe the sling attachment point might have changed too. I've climbed with both--feel the same.

I've heard the Charmoz has a boxier/roomier toe box.

It depends on your definition of "mild temps" and your circulation--whether you get cold feet or not. I live in Anchorage, Alaska, and wouldn't want to use these above 20 degrees. Even that may be pushing it. Sweat-soaked boot liners on multi-trips aren't a good thing. Vapor barrier socks will prevent your liners from becoming sweat-soaked and eventually crusty.

I don't know exactly what percentage of the earth is covered by the GPS sattelites, but I would imagine it's fairly vast--if not 100%. All you need is line of sight from your unit to the satellite. While some GPS units are better than others at picking up a signal, the specific Garmin model you use won't change your coverage eligibility.

I've taken my Black Diamond Predator 50L carry-on multiple times. Not sure if that helps.

If you're new to this, I'd stay away from tarptents unless you have an intense desire to go ultra-ultralight from the getgo. Remember, what you gain in weight savings, you potentially sacrifice in comfort, performance, durability, etc. There's nothing wrong with tarptents--I just wouldn't start out with them. The brands listed in one of the answers to your question are great brands. Also check out REI-brand tents. Their stuff is drastically cheaper yet they still win awards.

I frequently travel overhead compartment only with my Black Diamond 50L Predator backpack--STUFFED! Yes, it's true. It never really looks like it'll fit, but backpacks are generally soft and flexible. Once the hipbelt is past the lip of the compartment door, it's good to go. I certainly haven't had any "Meet the Parents" encounters with a nasty flight attendant.

There is nothing wrong with removing the tube from either the bladder and/or bite valve. If the connection is not tight after reattachment, cut off enough hose so that you have fresh "unstretched" hose to put back over the tapered/stepped nozzle. It will have the same seal as when you originally got it. So you lost an inch or two of hose length. Whatever.

I used to have this bag. When in its stuffsack, I couldn't fit it into the sleeping bag compartment of my 90 liter Lowe Alpine Alpamayo pack. I ended up leaving the stuff sack behind and just stuffing the bag into the sleeping bag compartment. I don't know how big the sleeping bag compartment is in TNF Crestone 75. The Snowshoe is really bulky. That's expected because it's a synthetic bag. But it's still really bulky.

Last time I checked, Big Agnes sleeping bags don't have insulation underneath because they are intended to be paired with a down-filled insulating mat. If you roll around a lot, this could be an issue if rotate the bag. If your bag is securely attached to a sleeping mat, it probably won't be an issue, though. Just some points to consider about Big Agnes. But they make great gear.

Try Feathered Friends too--they make custom bag lenghts in 6" increments. They, and Western Mountaineering, make sleeping bags and down products that are in a class by themselves. Marmot can't touch some of the stuff they make (and everything's made in the USA by Americans). Feathered Friends bags are expensive but super light and use ultra-high performance materials like eVent and Epic breathable water barriers. W Mountaineering uses Gore Windstopper products and the like. Both make outstanding gear.

From looking at the two products (EQ and regular Helium), seems as though the EQ designation refers to the outer shell. The EQ uses Marmot's proprietary Membrain breathable water barrier while the regular Helium uses a Pertex shell. That's where the extra cost is incurred. The two should be equally warm. If you're a cold sleeper, you might want to get a 0 degree bag just to be sure. With down, you wouldn't be adding too much weight. Also, be advised that you could get the Helium and likely use it with no issues if you had a really good sleeping mat. It's all about insulation from the cold ground. That's where most heat is lost because the sleeping bag insulation underneath you doesn't do much when compressed. At the very least, you should be using a 4-season Thermarest (e.g., Prolite Plus) or one of Big Agnes down-filled mats. Also, look at Exped Downmats. They have varying levels of thickness (translate: warmth). They're flagship model is rated to -36. Yeah, probably overkill for you--but you get the point. It's all about the sleeping mat. A good sleeping mat will let you use a less-warm sleeping bag. Also, a thermaest/Z-rest combination is also quite popular in cold winter environments.

Blowing into an air mattress is actually not the greatest idea. It'll inflate the pad faster, but it's not advised. There is moisture in exhaled air. Eventually, this will soak the insulating portion of the mat--this can reduce the insulating material's effectiveness as an insulator. If you plan on operating in cold climates, the moisture can actually freeze. And above all, moisture adds unwanted weight. Over time, it will make a difference.

I'd say they fit neutral in the thigh. That basically means that I've never thought about it until I saw your question.

I like your initials--same as mine. Anyways, I've used my three-season tent plenty of times in moderate snow conditions in the winter in Alaska. 3-season tents have no place in a mountaineering or alpine environment where extreme winds and heavy snow loads are common, but they will work fine for a good deal of winter backpacking and camping trips.

Yes. I have half jackets with black iridium lenses as well as A-fram goggles with black iridium lenses, and they are definitely mirrored. They are absolutely phenomenal for ultra-bright conditions. They don't work well for flat-lighting conditions.

I agree. MH Absolute Zero Parka, Marmot 8000m parka (or suit), Feathered Friends Icefall Parka...the regular sub-zero jacket is amazing--but not suited to the cold found at those extreme altitudes.

Down fill ratings are all about performance vs. weight. The higher the down fill power, the more efficient the down. So a 650 fill jacket rated to a certain temperature will weigh X lbs, but an 800 fill jacket rated to that same temperature will weigh less than the 650 fill jacket. The higher fill power, the more dead air space each plume of goose down traps, and dead air space is what provides the warmth. So is the 150 difference important? Depends on what you plan on using the jacket for.

I live in Anchorage and wear this thing in the dead of winter. When I'm moving, this thing is all I need. Obviously when I stop moving, I'll put a down jacket over it (for belaying or when winter camping, etc.). I ice climb in this thing as well as ski. It's insanely versatile, extremely comfortable and very durable. I'm 5'7" and 160 lbs., but I got the large so I'd have the option to layer underneath it. Even without layers, the large fits great, though the sleeves are slightly on the long side, but I think I might run into trouble with a medium because I have a larger chest and back from lifting.

They'll fit on pretty much any shoe, but if you put them on a real soft shoe, you might impede circulation when tightened them properly. This can result in devastating consequences in extreme cold.

These are way overkill for walking on groomed trails with your dog. I recommend something much simpler (and cheaper) like Due North Traction Aids (AKA Get-a-Grip) or YaxTrax traction aids. These cost between $10-15 and simply slip over your shoes. You don't need actual crampons unless you're dealing with extreme hardpack snow or actual ice, e.g., when mountaineering, ice climbing, alpine climbing, etc.

I wear normal shoe size 8. I ordered the Flash in 7.5. It was super tight at first, but once I was able to sweat a little in the shoes, they started to stretch some. I couldn't be in them all day, but the performance I get from tight shoes is awesome!

Gear loops generally aren't on the front of a harness--usually the sides and back. This harness will work fine for the gym, though if you never plan on using it for anything other than rock climbing, you could avoid the adjustable leg loops. If you ever plan on crossing over to ice or even using it for alpine or mountaineering purposes, the adjustable leg loops are an absolutely necessity.

Unless Metolious revamped their Safe-Tech harness line, all their harnesses require you to double back the strap. (You can even see the waist strap doubled back in the picture above.) Their harnesses are, however, rated to withstand certain kN loads with the strap only single-threaded through the buckle. Not a good idea to test that out, though.

I've been doing a ton of research on bags for Denali and the Alaska range--I plan on attempting Denali in the next year or two. AMS (Alaska Mountaineering School) which does Guided Denali expeditions (pretty much the experts of the Alaska range) recommend the MH Ghost as one of the bag options. They also recommmend the Marmot Col EQ. I've looked at Marmot vs. Feathered Friends vs. Western Mountaineering vs. Mountain Hardware. They're all good bags, but Feathered Friends and Western Mountaineering are better when it comes down to the small details. For example, Marmot Col EQ (-20 bag) weighs 4 lb. 4 oz. Feathered Friends -40 bag weighs 4 lb. 4 oz. Also, from asking around, seems as though Marmot's Membrain waterproof shell doesn't breath nearly as well as eVent (which Feathered Friends uses) or the barrier W. Mountaineering uses. It all comes down to $$$, though. If you're spending $600+, ya might as well just drop the extra $100 and get a FF or W. Mountaineering bag.

If you're referring to the Scarpa Denali TT boots, the answer is No. The Denalis are not Dynafit compatible. Scarpa Matrix and Spirit should both be compatible, though. I use Garmont Megaride boots with the above bindings. Or do you already own the Denali TT boots and are looking for a matching binding? Check out Diamir Fritschi Freeride or Marker Baron (or Duke if you want super high DIN).

You're going to hate me for saying this, but you can't put a price on good footwear. Buy the boot thats fit not only your foot but your needs. It's not like you're spending money on something that will result in you being sedentary and getting fat. Boots are always worthwhile.

I've definitely used my Punisher ice climbing in temps colder than 15. I am always dumbfounded how much dexterity vs. warmth these gloves provide. I never have issues clipping/unclipping gear on my harness or placing screws/threads. Worth every cent. I doubt they'd work for you in -20 temps, though. That's definitely pushing it. The coldest I've I'm climbed in these--the temperature was likely hovering near zero (definitely less than 10). My hands would get cold while climbing if I overgripped, but on belay or the hike out, they were fine. Not good for skiing, though--already tried that. This is an ice climbing glove and greatly excels at that task.

Your crampon selection should be determined by your selection of overboot (if any). Black Diamond crampons are generally wider by design and often are compatible with boot/overboot setups that other crampons fail to fit.

I normally wear a size 8 shoe. I have size 42 Spantiks that fit great. I think I could probably wear 41.5 as well, but my 42s are perfect. I find that it helps to loosen them up for approaches in which case they walk fine on non-technical terrain. Then, I'll cinch them up for vertical ice, etc.

Deuter Futura Zero. I have a 30 liter. It's awesome! Mesh isolated backing. Not sure about the hip/waist size.

I agree. I have high arches and love these shoes.

Road Runner Sports has a great house brand of high-performance running socks. I just ran a half-marathon in Afghanistan a few weeks ago--loved 'em! I wasn't wearing my Salomons at the time, but still...those socks rock!

Don't waste your money on the ATC-XP. For a dollar or two more, you can get the Trango B-52 belay device. No teeth to destroy the sheath on skinny ropes, and it allows you to autoblock, unlike the ATC-XP. Your belay carabiner will break before the B-52 does. Super amazing product.

Medium. I'm 5'7, 163 and wear a large mountain hardware alchemy soft shell. fits great. for you, medium would likely work well and would give you freedom to layer underneath it. you don't want a supertight technical jacket. Also depends on your bodytype. I workout almost daily and need the extra room for my chest and back. If you're real skinny, it might not be as much of an issue.