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Magnus

Skier // Climber // Telemark Skier // Nordic Skier // Mountain Biker // Camper/Hiker

Magnus: #400 of 93,957 Top 500 Gear Guru More Information

11 Reviews:

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3 Questions:

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  • Stomping Grounds:

    Northern Norway and New Zealand South Island

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Arc'teryx Alpha SV Jacket - Men's

October 22, 2009

Never trust a "waterproof" zipper!!! They are weather resistant but do leak during extensive rain. I'd use a ziplock plastic cover for any electronics if there's a chance of rain.

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Backcountry.com Siphon Wool Hooded Jacket - Men's

June 5, 2009

Agree with angus. Not short in the front and actually drops down in the back a bit. felt stiff the first couple of weeks but has now completely become a piece that moves with me :) It's really good. Another thing it actually ages with grace, the piling, which will happen given the wool, looks good on it.

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Backcountry.com Siphon Wool Hooded Jacket - Men's

June 5, 2009

I'm 6'5" and also find the arc fugitive way too short. This one, the BC Siphon fits really well in an XL for me. I'm pretty lean (93 kg) and do have some extra space in this around the lower torso. the backside drops a little and i can cinch it almost half way down my buttarms are pretty long. my wingspan is exacly 2 meters and the sleeves on this jacket is 2 cm away from covering my knuckles. Amazing neck/chin piece and hood!

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La Sportiva Katana Climbing Shoe

June 3, 2009

Are there any shoes out there that has a fit like the Katana, only wider in the forefoot? The assymetrical curve, the big toe and the heel on these fit me perfect, But my wide foot (up front) and sixth toe from skiing gives me too much of a squeeze during long days. Thanks!

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Arc'teryx Venta SV Softshell Jacket - Men's

June 2, 2009

Get over it. My china-made jacket showed better quality than my canada made jacket (Both were Gamma MX).

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes | 0 No

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will do the job for years

Sole Regular Softec Footbed

Sole Regular Softec Footbed

Rating for this product: 4 June 2, 2009

Had these (two pairs) for years now and i've been happy with them. Incredibly durable. I find they build too much for running shoes though (too thick), so I gonna pick up a few pairs of the thin model. Perfect for a high arch like mine, didnt really have to heat conform, an to be honest i didn't feel mch difference - probably becasue the fit was so good out of the box

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very good for mountainering

Black Diamond Sensei Glove

Black Diamond Sensei Glove

Rating for this product: 4 June 1, 2009

very durable upper but the leather wears easily on granite (most leather would though). i find the primaloft insulation ingenius. when this glove gets stiff and icy (as all gloves do at the end of a long day of climbing in the snow, the primaloft really shines. It provides enough airy insulation to keep the digits warm ( when you're not clinging to the ice axe) and the gloves never soaked through (yet). Have been using the wool liners from Smartwool with these, which is a perfect set. Not always needed but when it drops down below -10 Celcius it's useful to have a pair of liners close at hand.

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really good

SmartWool Adrenaline Light Mini Sock

SmartWool Adrenaline Light Mini Sock

Rating for this product: 5 June 1, 2009

These are great. wick very well compared to other woolsocks i've used (e.g. bridgedale). great to have a low rise sock for summer use that doesn't stink immediately. seem quite sturdy too.

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great fit, tad heavy

Arc'teryx Rho LTW Zip Top - Long-Sleeve - Men's

Arc'teryx Rho LTW Zip Top - Long-Sleeve - Men's

Rating for this product: 4 June 1, 2009

Really like it and use it as base and second layer. great fit, very stretchy, long arms and torso, true to size but a little bigger than other brands (icebreaker). I really value the extra length though. the only thing i could consider a drawback is that it's a bit heavy. that makes me wonder if it's a bit tightly woven, and consequently retain more moisture. because of that I almost never use this shirt when i anticipate a lot of sweating (spring ski touring e.g.). i use a thinner wool shirt for that. but the times it has been used i feel like it deals pretty well with moisture. top notch quality! For resort skiing it has been great though, both as base and second.

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perfect multi use

Arc'teryx Gamma MX Jacket - Men's

Arc'teryx Gamma MX Jacket - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 June 1, 2009

used it for a year now, for skiing in cold snowy weather in Little Cottonwood Canyon, a three day alpine winter adventure in Norway, general spring rock climbing and for winter/spring running. It does most things really well. I think it is good enough wind protection if you're in motion and on the 3day alpine trip this was my only jacket appart from my down. Hesitant to leave my goretex shell behind but I was glad i did (I knew there was not much chance of wet precipitation). I have an older gamma mx with a hood and that would have been more suitable for alpine endeavors but i made it through with a winbreaker hat. The quality seems much better on this piece than the older one. I see that a lot of people are concerned with the quality of the stuff made in china versus what is made in Canada... Well, you crack me up. My old jacket (made in canada) busted seams pretty fast without heavy use, this one (made in china) has stood up very well to more abrasive use and seem bombproof.
the combo of a gamma mx and an insulating down or synthetic is pretty good for cold winter use. Works for running but gets pretty sweaty. However I havent used anything else for cold weather running that feels better and doesnt get clammy. the stretch and fit of this piece, makes it such a winner anyways. the only drawback is if you get really sweaty or wet from rain on a mountain trip, the windchill could get you freezing pretty fast and it does take a while to dry if it gets soaked. so use a hardshell if you're unsure about weather.
Super abrasion resistant so it's great for climbing.
GREAT pockets let you stash plenty of hats and gloves and even bottles, and they work well with harness.
great collar that maintain shape and position (doesnt collapse)
I found the gamma mx hoody had a longer drop in the back, but i donno if that is just because its an older model. worth mentioning anyways.

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not that good for real workout

The North Face VaporWick Ruckus T-Shirt - Short-Sleeve - Men's

The North Face VaporWick Ruckus T-Shirt - Short-Sleeve - Men's

Rating for this product: 2 June 1, 2009

The fit is ok and true to size, it's comfortable and good for just average t-shirt use, and for the price it is great. But I won't use this for training again. Holy crap this shirt gets moist and does not wick well compared to other products. It gets heavy and suffocating, so it is not a technical work out shirt! But for people who either don't sweat or don't really push it, it is probably alright. Buy it as"just another t-shirt" but don't buy it if you're in need of a good tech shirt. I gave it 2 stars because i feel the desciption of the shirt doesn't match.

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Platypus Platy Bottle

April 21, 2009

Is there anything like this on the market, exept with a wider opening for easier filling? Looking for a winter bottle that works like a Nalgene when pouring water from a pot after melting snow (exept I want a foldable bottle).

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Sessions Rocket Pant - Men's

April 17, 2009

I'm the same size as you and the best fit for me is Arcteryx pants in size LT (Large Tall) (they make a longer inseam version of all sizes). Perhaps not the style you're looking for but it's hard to find better pants than the Stinger bib (freeride oriented) and Theta SV (ski/mountaineering oriented) bib from Arcteryx. Unforntunately hardly any other company produce long inseam pants.

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The North Face Prophet 35 Backpack - 2150cu in

January 9, 2009

There are many good options out there, I use the Black Diamond Anarchist 42L which is both lightweight and has a backpocket for shovel and probe. Good ski carry and 2 ice axe holders. Quite big for the size and quite tall, so you might want to try before you buy. great suspension system and also has a insulated sleeve for drinking hose on the shoulder strap. There's also a version with included Avalung.http://www.backcountry.com/store/BLD0948/Black-Diamond-Anarchist-Winter-Pack-1953-2563cu-in.htmlThere are a few drawbacks, like the compression straps are a bit to far apart (good for ski carry though), but I'm mostly happy with it.

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Black Diamond Anarchist with Avalung Winter Pack - 1953-2563 cu in

December 15, 2008

That webbing is used to pin down a coiled rope under the lid, or to compress an oversized load. also useful for temporarily stashing a jacket. This feature is quite common on mountaineering packs.

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Marker Duke Ski Binding

December 13, 2008

Duke is better for skiing performance, worse for climbing performance. If you do short tours from the lift, duke is great. if you mostly do backcountry tours, the freeride might be a better option, depending on several other factors of course

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Petzl Altios Climbing Helmet

November 28, 2008

Can anyone give some comparison on the fit and depth (that is, how far down it goes on your noggin) of this helmet (Altios) versus the petzl Elios?Also, is it constructed to give more side protection than the Elios?

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comment on ski brake

Crispi EVO NTN Telemark Boot

Crispi EVO NTN Telemark Boot

Rating for this product: 5 October 30, 2008

Just a comment on Chris' Boot Update... The new 2009 NTN binding apparently has redesigned the ski brake so sole interference should no longer be an issue when removing the boot from the binding. other updates has also been made

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Petzl Meteor III Climbing Helmet

September 14, 2008

Not that I'm an expert but the Meteor and similar helmets are sopposed to offer more protection as they are fully molded and provide way more protection on the sides, front and back of your head. Ecrin and elios type helmets mostly protect the top as from falling rocks, and offer comparatively poor side protection. Meteor and similar helmets are more prone to damage than the oldstyle helmets though and should be discarded if they suffer small impacts, due to risk of structural damage. Just like a bike helmet if you wish.

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Long time testing

Arc'teryx Gamma MX Hooded Jacket - Men's

Arc'teryx Gamma MX Hooded Jacket - Men's

Rating for this product: 4 July 8, 2008

I've had this jacket for more than three years now. It bothers me that it is always listed as highly water resistant because it's pretty far from it. Rain will bead off during the first month or less but anyone caught in a lasting shower will know that it seeps through pretty fast. I bought it with intentions of replacing my GoreTex on day trips ski mountaineering and touring but because you can't rely on it as your only shell, I ended up carrying my Goretex with me anyway. Using it on the climb up it retains sweat from your body and can become quite wet. When on exposed ridges or at the summmit and the wind starts to pick up, the jacket chills you down quite fast since it is not entirely windproof, especially if a little wet. Same goes for resort skiing if you're pushing your body or get wet from the snow. Bone chilling if it gets wet. Hence I stopped using it for skiing. for climbing it is much better. Amazing abrasion resistance and windproof enough to climb in most conditions. Quality is good and there is only real sign of wear on the wrists and a couple of seams on one arm. The plastic chin guard is not so good as it curled up during the first few months and never really stays in place. The fit is athletic and XL fits me perfectly, although it could be slimmer(although I suspect they make it baggier in the XL). I'm 6'5 and 90 kg's whatever that is in pounds. Oh, and the hood of course is amazing. Fits perfectly with or without helmet.

Helpful Votes: 4 Yes | 0 No

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Not the athletic fit

Backcountry.com Wool Hooded Jacket - Men's

Backcountry.com Wool Hooded Jacket - Men's

Rating for this product: 3 July 1, 2008

Material and quality are all good. My only gripe is that what looks like an athletic fit was not.. Certainly not in XL. I'm 6.5 tall and use Xl in most Arcteryx clothing which this jacket was compared to in relation to fit. There's a lot of room for a beer belly and man-boobs. So I wouldn't say it's a slim fit. I like the pockets, zippers and hood, all very well done. A minor detail is that the seams (attaching the chinguard)on the chin part scratches my chin and neck quite a bit, even though it has a chin guard.

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes | 1 No

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Simply a great setup

Mammut Belay Sling - 19mm

Mammut Belay Sling - 19mm

Rating for this product: 5 July 1, 2008

I've been using this for sport climbing a lot and it simply makes things easier. Use it as described in Climb2love's answer below. The small loop in the middle is brilliant for abseiling off instead of using the central loop on your harness. I'm a tall guy (6,5) and use the 90cm. Great length that fit my range. Smaller guy's anf girls might consider using the shorter one.

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Black Diamond ATC Belay Device

June 25, 2008

i would also suggest going for the ATC-XP (or guide) if the belayer is that much lighter than the climber. It adds some confidence and way more breaking power.

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First impression

Black Diamond Anarchist Winter Pack - 1953-2563cu in

Black Diamond Anarchist Winter Pack - 1953-2563cu in

Rating for this product: 4 October 24, 2007

It seems like a good quality pack and has some essential features for a backcountry pack. Especially the external pocket for shovel, probe and other on the fly gear. The hipbelt is great by the way and has two small attachment points which I guess is for creating gear loops with 6 mm rope. pretty ingenius. Would work very well as an allround pack for mountaineering. the insulated shoulder strap for bladder hose look very well done and the pack seems more sturdy than most - yet lightweight. It will take a lot of abuse for sure. Only cons is that it's a pretty tall pack, I'm 6"4 (mostly legs though but still) and the back above the shoulder straps seems a little too high. wonder if it will conflict with my helmet while skiing when I'm leaning forward tilting my head back. Most ski packs are low on the back to avoid such situations. Could have created a helmet 'groove' in the top as many other packs have. Otherwise the pocket where the helmet cover is, is only protected by velcro and it opens upwards so that rain can rinse straight through the velcro. pretty stupid as it is not designed as a 'wet gear pocket' with rinsing holes at the bottom. Also the protection of the main compartment has only one drawcord, not the usual additional 'extension body' with extra drawcord. This makes it less complicated (faster) to access the compartment but also makes it easier for snow or rain to enter the compartment if it's blowing a bit (which it usually does). could therefore be extra useful with a waterproof liner or packsack. Otherwise great pack for ski touring and mountaineering

Helpful Votes: 8 Yes | 0 No

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