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backcountry reviewer - Tony

Climber

backcountry reviewer - Tony: #8,470 of 95,360 More Information

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silky smooth but clanky like a cow

Petzl Reverso Belay Device

Petzl Reverso Belay Device

Rating for this product: 4 April 26, 2003

This thing feeds cord like water. The belays are super smooth as are the rappels. I love that you can belay two seconds with this device and it will automatically lock on one or both of the ropes.

Two things I don't like about it are it's bulk (compared to an ATC for example) and the *clang clang clang* ruckus it makes when clipped to your belay loop while you are climbing.

I prefer to use it on long trad routes in parties of three or greater, but for anything else I still haven't found a replacement for the ATC.

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best base layer I've ever owned

Patagonia R.5 Regulator Top - Mens - DO NOT USE

Patagonia R.5 Regulator Top - Mens - DO NOT USE

Rating for this product: 5 April 24, 2003

The second I put this on for the first time I knew it was going to be not only my favorite base layer, but one of my favorite shirts period. The Regulator is super comfy and does exactly what it says, regulates your temperature. It's like wearing a climate control system on your body. It's warm, it's cool, it's both.

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old faithful

Black Diamond ATC Belay Device

Black Diamond ATC Belay Device

Rating for this product: 5 April 24, 2003

The BD ATC—if you don't own one, you should. Hands down the standard device with probably 90% of climbers out there and for good reason. Light so it's not pulling you down. Simple so you can quickly and confidently set up that last rappel after 8 hours on the rock and still enjoy the post climb pizza and beer instead of being life-flighted out of the canyon. Streamlined so it doesn't snag on features, foliage, or anything else while you're grunting up a sketchy chimney section that won't take your wimpy less-than-12" cams. Bombproof and nearly bumble-proof. What else is there?

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the desert island rock shoe

La Sportiva Mythos Rock Climbing Shoe - Men's

La Sportiva Mythos Rock Climbing Shoe - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 April 24, 2003

If you had to spend the rest of your life on a desert island (with unlimited crags) and could only bring one climbing shoe with you, this would be it.

I've had my Mythos for at least 6 years now. I'm on my second resole and it's still delamming before any of the stitching, laces, or anything else on the shoe has even begun to wear out. What's more, they are comfy enough for a half-day, five pitch climb (ok so I take them off between pitches to dull the sting, but they are still rock shoes, not bedroom slippers after all) and perform superbly on tiny edges. On those sketchy, committing smears they give me enough confidence to stand up for that next nubbin of a handhold. They excel in the gym as well. I don't like them in cracks as they are not quite sturdy enough for long periods of foot jamming (can you say screaming pain?).

Mine are in dire need of a good scrub but the stink keeps those undesirable gumbies at bay when I 'let 'em breathe' at the base of the crag.

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