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Jacon Mayer

Trad Climber // Ice Climber // Mountaineer // Telemark Skier // Backpacker

Jacon Mayer: #108 of 93,385 Top 200 Gear Guru More Information

52 Reviews:

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12 Yes | 7 No

4 Questions:

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23 Answers:

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2 Comments:

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0 Gearlists:

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  • Stomping Grounds:

    Vermont
  • Bio:

    Vermont local - climber first, sailor second, skiier third. Instructor - National Outdoor Leadership School. Senior - Wesleyan University.

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Millet Radikal Mountaineering Boot - Men's

November 10, 2009

Good! These are a technical ice boot, and will work well on basic ice right through sh*t-your-pants WI6 M8.

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Black Diamond Cyborg Pro Crampons

November 9, 2009

Step-in, no question. More secure, easier to get in and out of - generally better. The only reason you might want the clips would be if you were planning on using the crampons with boots that aren't designed for step-in crampons, but the Mantas are, and Cyborgs really aren't the sort of crampon you would want to use with a tamer boot anyway.

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Patagonia Friction Belt

November 4, 2009

Anyone know where one can buy that sort of buckle, sans belt?

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Black Diamond RPM Backpack - 1587cu in

October 28, 2009

Actually, the new models are hydration compatible. So says BD's website.

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Black Diamond RPM Backpack - 1587cu in

October 28, 2009

Sorry, Angus, allow me to clarify my question:

Would anyone who has skied with THIS pack care to comment on its performance, when used for skiing?

Specifically, I'm curious about the ultra-wimpy hipbelt and how you felt about it.

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Stoic Tour Softshell Pant - Men's

October 21, 2009

It's warm. How warm? Warmer than non-insulated softshells.

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes | 0 No

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Cozy and wonderful

Patagonia Cord Pant - Men's

Patagonia Cord Pant - Men's

Rating for this product: 4 October 21, 2009

I love these pants - they are cozy, good-looking and functional. Patagonia pants are a little baggy for my taste, so I only give them four stars. Everything else is right - the jean-style pockets, the right number of belt loops, etc. The details are good, just the fit is baggy.

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Metolius Mega Pack 35 - Kids'

October 12, 2009

You can if you have a way of drilling through the wall, and it isn't very thick.

That said, you would need to glue the nuts on the other side of the holes, as the little barbs on the T-nuts won't dig into concrete as they do into wood.

"10 meter length" is not very clear - how high is the wall? Even so, 35 holds will almost certainly be too little for a 33-foot long wall. You'll probably want closer to 100.

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Sweet.

Deuter Guide 35+ Backpack - 2150cu in

Deuter Guide 35+ Backpack - 2150cu in

Rating for this product: 5 October 7, 2009

Great shape and size, nice and simple.

I don't own one, alas, but have used a friend's several times and been very pleased. Best of all, like all Deuter packs, it's super super super durable.

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes | 0 No

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Spacious, but third-pole and vestibule design are poor

Mountain Hardwear Skyledge 3 Tent 3-Person 3-Season

Mountain Hardwear Skyledge 3 Tent 3-Person 3-Season

Rating for this product: 3 October 6, 2009

This is a nice tent - it's spacious and light.

The third pole is a poor design, however - it ripped through the fly fairly quickly. And the vestibule isn't a very good shape, in my opinion - making it pretty small. Finally, when it's windy, the tent just doesn't feel that solid - frankly I think they went a big bit for a standard two pole X design.

Overall, I'm kind of unimpressed, especially considering MH's usual excellence with tents.

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The best.

Mountain Hardwear Trango 4 Tent 4-Person 4-Season

Mountain Hardwear Trango 4 Tent 4-Person 4-Season

Rating for this product: 5 October 6, 2009

This sweet tent comes in 2, 3 and 4 person varieties and it is the most thoughtfully designed, bombproof and generally sweet tent I have ever had the pleasure of using. Twin doors, twin vestibules, sensible features.

And it's really, really heavy.

This is a hunker-down-for-two-weeks-and-wait-out-the-storm tent. It's a high-altitude-basecamp tent. It's a rainy-and-windy every day sort of tent.

What it isn't: for light and fast expeditions on big (or small) mountains.

But if weight isn't an issue, you won't find a better or more bombproof tent.

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The best of the single-strap headlamps

Petzl Tikka XP Headlamp

Petzl Tikka XP Headlamp

Rating for this product: 5 October 6, 2009

Extremely light and simple, this headlamp is a gem. In particular, I love the wide vs. narrow beam option, the blinking batter meter, and the boost mode.

Tilt function will not fail like other brands eventually will.

This headlamp is great for around camp and other general use, but is not bright enough for an alpine start.

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Not a Prussell

Metolius PAS Personal Anchor System w/ Element Locking Carabiner

Metolius PAS Personal Anchor System w/ Element Locking Carabiner

Rating for this product: 3 October 5, 2009

This thing is significant improvement over a daisy - it solves the danger of mistakenly clipping only the tack-stitching on a daisy (see http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Be17lI-rVyU). And it's stronger than a daisy - if anyone is ever bored, go drop a hundred pound weight onto a daisy as though that hundred-pound weight were standing precariously above the anchor.... it won't hold.

What it doesn't solve is the fact that both this and a daisy are STATIC. That's why a daisy doesn't hold that 100 pound drop, and why this thing isn't really safe. You should always tie to your anchor WITH YOUR ROPE - clove hitch or figure eight or whatever - because the rope is dynamic. So if you slip while precariously balanced above the anchor, or get hit by a rock, you might actually have some hope.

When you're rappelling, tying in with the rope obviously isn't an option. Solution: tie yourself a Prussel Prusik and keep that on your harness. - it's more adjustable than this thing and it's dynamic.

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Patagonia Down Sweater Full-Zip Hooded Jacket - Men's

October 4, 2009

I have the pullover and I tried one of these on at the Patagucc store in San Francisco... it's the same thing. The thing you lose (which I love so much) is the kangaroo pocket. But maybe switching to full zip is an acceptable trade.... hard to say.

Seriously, though, it's the same thing.

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes | 0 No

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Climb well, glide poorly, stretch when wet

Black Diamond Ascension Nylon Clipfix Skins

Black Diamond Ascension Nylon Clipfix Skins

Rating for this product: 4 October 4, 2009

Previous reviewers got it right.

These skins stick like crazy and it's great. They don't glide that well. The glue is decent and holds up reasonably well (if you take care of it, obviously).

Downside: when they get wet, they stretch, and then the Clipfix system doesn't work too well because you can't tighten it down. Then the gobs start getting in between the skin and the ski, and that sucks.

Conclusion: good skin, Clipfix best for dry snow conditions.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes | 0 No

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Good fit, fan is great, big

Smith Knowledge OTG Turbo Fan Series Goggles - Mirror Lens

Smith Knowledge OTG Turbo Fan Series Goggles - Mirror Lens

Rating for this product: 4 October 4, 2009

I love these goggles - the fan actually works at keeping fog away, and they fit very well over my glasses.

I have a number of different lenses for different conditions - which is nice. I particularly like the Sensor mirror.

Only downside is that they are very big and look a little goofy, even with a helmet.

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LOVE it.

Giro 2008 G10 MX Helmet

Giro 2008 G10 MX Helmet

Rating for this product: 5 October 4, 2009

I've got this thing in white and it's easily the comfiest helmet I've ever worn. Vents are great, shape is perfect, I like the visor. Totally sweet helmet.

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My favorite oversized

Petzl William Locking Carabiner

Petzl William Locking Carabiner

Rating for this product: 5 October 4, 2009

The shape, gate opening, and smooth screw-lock of this carabiner make it my favorite extra-large.

And still fairly light, in comparison to others of its size.

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Simple, light

Black Diamond Ice Screwup

Black Diamond Ice Screwup

Rating for this product: 5 October 4, 2009

Good way to store screws and keep them sharp. Light enough to carry to the base. I have yet to see a better option.

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Bulky and heavy

Petzl Express Quickdraw Sling

Petzl Express Quickdraw Sling

Rating for this product: 2 October 4, 2009

Too bulky and too heavy. I don't like these at all. Thin spectra/dyneema may not be quite as durable, but it's pretty damn good. Every ounce matters.

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A whole extra hour? This thing is mandatory.

Black Diamond Avalung II

Black Diamond Avalung II

Rating for this product: 5 October 3, 2009

And low-profile and well designed.

Buy one, but then stick to the #1 rule: don't ever need it!

Dig a pit; it's really not that much effort.

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Grivel G12 Crampon

October 3, 2009

Unfortunately, Grivel North America went under.

Go to www.themountaineer.com. It's a store in Keene Valley, NY, and as far as I can figure out it is the only place in the US that still carries Grivel parts.

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CAMP USA XLH 95 Climbing Harness

October 3, 2009

Do you mean in addition to a bosun's chair?

The answer is yes: it would be fine. Light and low-bulk. That said - are you climbing the mast or getting hoisted? If you're getting hoisted, you will definitely want a bosun's chair - this thing is not going to be comfortable. If you're climbing.... um - get hoisted.

As a backup for a bosun's, this is excellent.

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Best passive gear is right

CAMP USA Tri Cam

CAMP USA Tri Cam

Rating for this product: 5 September 30, 2009

These are the best. Learn to place them - they fit where nothing else will, they're light (yeah, the big sizes are great too!), and as fusionboy points out - pink is the best. Especially when you're 50 ft. above your last piece on easy slab and the only hole in the rock is a little pocket thing (Whitehorse anyone?).

Way, way, way better than hexes for large pieces in the mountains, unique placements that are irreplaceable in the small sizes. Get some.

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes | 0 No

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Head too wide, lobe shape poor

Black Diamond Camalot C3

Black Diamond Camalot C3

Rating for this product: 2 September 30, 2009

These are seriously inferior to Metolios Master Cams, and obviously even more inferior to Aliens.

Why? Because the head is suuuper wide. That means it won't fit in those tiny pockets it is designed for.

Also, the lobe shape is poor - not nearly bulbous enough (Master cams do this better, Aliens do it far better). So what, you say? It reduces the range of each cam, and makes the fit worse. I've seen these pop twice, which is scary. Never seen an Alien or a Master cam do that, and I've used the latter a lot more.

I love C4s but these kinda suck.

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Wiregate Keylock!!!

Wild Country Helium Clean Wire Carabiner

Wild Country Helium Clean Wire Carabiner

Rating for this product: 5 September 30, 2009

Super expensive but it's finally here: the lightness and gate reliability (low gate mass reduces accidental openings, they last long, etc.) and the wonderful simplicity and pump-saving keylock.

Best of both worlds - soon there will be little else on my rack.

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Does it all

Black Diamond ATC Guide

Black Diamond ATC Guide

Rating for this product: 5 September 30, 2009

Best delay device I have yet found.

Smooth operation, good auto-blocking, fairly light. Works for ascension too.

Don't hesitate - just get it.

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Light, low bulk, but not keylock

Black Diamond Quicksilver  Quickdraw

Black Diamond Quicksilver Quickdraw

Rating for this product: 4 September 30, 2009

Super light and low-bulk.

Cheap.

Not keylock biners - if that's important to you (it should be).

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Does its job

DMM Deadman Snow Anchor

DMM Deadman Snow Anchor

Rating for this product: 4 September 30, 2009

But it's heavy. Hey - it's a deadman. 4 stars because I know of no lighter option, if this is what you need.

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Good frontpoints but they aren't replaceable

Petzl Sarken Crampon

Petzl Sarken Crampon

Rating for this product: 3 September 30, 2009

This is a nice all-around crampon - works well on mixed snow/ice terrain, and light enough for glacier work. In particular, I like the shape of the frontpoints, especially for vertical snow conditions (they get nice and wide near the back of the fps).

That said, you can't replace them. You have to replace the whole front piece, which is obnoxious.

Finally, I can find no discernible advantage to the Sidelock. In fact, it's kind of a pain in the ass.

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Good frontpoints but they aren't replaceable

Petzl Sarken Crampon

Petzl Sarken Crampon

Rating for this product: 4 September 30, 2009

This is a nice all-around crampon - works well on mixed snow/ice terrain, and light enough for glacier work. In particular, I like the shape of the frontpoints, especially for vertical snow conditions (they get nice and wide near the back of the fps).

That said, you can't replace them. You have to replace the whole front piece, which is obnoxious.

Finally, I can find no discernible advantage to the Sidelock. In fact, it's kind of a pain in the ass.

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Barely fits Petzl Sarkens

Petzl Fakir Crampon Carrying Bag

Petzl Fakir Crampon Carrying Bag

Rating for this product: 3 September 30, 2009

BARELY fits the Sarkens. Pretty frustrating... especially when it's cold and windy and you're tired, etc. etc.

It's a durable bag with a mesh side which helps prevent rusting.

That said, there are better options.

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Just one thought

Petzl Antisnow Plates

Petzl Antisnow Plates

Rating for this product: 5 September 30, 2009

It seems worth noting that Petzl crampons now come with these included. So don't make the mistake I did and buy the antibots as well.

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Sterling Chain Reactor Canyon Sling

September 30, 2009

The idea is to avoid the daisy chain problem (see http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Be17lI-rVyU). And for that it works well - all the loops are full strength, unlike a daisy chain.

That said, it's still a static anchor connection, which is dangerous. If you get hit by rockfall or are precariously balanced above your anchor, this is not particularly safe. I highly recommend you look into tying yourself a Prussel Prusik, which is both more useful and safer.

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Black Diamond Chaos Harness

September 28, 2009

In my experience (and I still own a Petzl harness, and am still a big fan), BD harnesses are quite a bit more comfortable.

Also, the Chaos is actually less bulky because of the fancy new polymer stuff that Arc'teryx started (BD calls it Kinetic Core Construction - whatever). Extremely low profile, even compared to the Sama.

So lighter, more comfy and less bulky.... yeah, go Chaos.

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Petzl Aztar Ice Tool

September 28, 2009

Agreed with Stan. They are very poor leashless tools, and have no modular attachments to make them better. WI4 would be the max I would go leashless with them.

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Eh - last review got it right. There are better options.

Black Diamond Slider Leash

Black Diamond Slider Leash

Rating for this product: 3 September 28, 2009

This is clearly not a leash for vertical ice climbing - way too fussy and difficult.

Even for alpine axes, it's kind of a pain, though it is light and simple. Mandatory two-hand operation, and sometimes it can essentially become frozen shut and then require a lot of force to release.

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Good way to rack screws

Black Diamond Ice Clipper

Black Diamond Ice Clipper

Rating for this product: 5 September 28, 2009

But only about five of 'em. So get two. And it's not so great if you have a bunch of different types of screws - works much better with one consistent screw shape.

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Light and comfy

Black Diamond Half Dome Helmet

Black Diamond Half Dome Helmet

Rating for this product: 5 September 28, 2009

Lightweight but not super-light (so it actually feels kinda durable).

Definitely the most comfortable helmet I've ever tried.

Why look farther?

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Black Diamond Cyborg Frontpoint

September 28, 2009

I take it you mean Grivel crampons - no, it won't.

Fortunately, there is one store in the US which still carries Grivel frontpoints (after Grivel North American went under). It's called The Mountaineer, it's in Keene Valley NY, and they have a website.

So clutch.

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Grivel Quantum Tech Ice Tool

September 28, 2009

Alas - ice tools are always sold individually except on eBay and Craigslist. So they're not just expensive, they're really, really f%$$ing expensive.

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La Sportiva Nuptse Mountaineering Boot - Men's

September 28, 2009

Heavy! Those two weights probably reflect different sizes (I realize that makes no sense, but there is is). Mountain Gear lists the weight as 6 pounds, so the answer is probably closer to 5 lbs 10. And obviously, the bigger the size you need, the heavier they'll be. You ain't gonna be dancing.

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Petzl Irvis 10-Point Crampon

September 28, 2009

No - you'll need to get the extender bars.

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They're great

Black Diamond Cobra/Viper Android Leash

Black Diamond Cobra/Viper Android Leash

Rating for this product: 5 September 27, 2009

Just don't, erm, take off your glove and accidentally drop the bottom half.....

Seriously, though, they're excellent leashes. Light, simple, easy to manipulate with big mitts/gloves.

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Good all-day shoe

La Sportiva Mythos Climbing Shoe - Men's DO NOT USE

La Sportiva Mythos Climbing Shoe - Men's DO NOT USE

Rating for this product: 3 September 27, 2009

They stretch out A LOT. At least two sizes. So then they're basically only good for all-day adventure climbs. Which is fine: some shoe has to fill that role.

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Good edging, surprisingly good smearing, doesn't stretch

Five Ten Galileo Climbing Shoe

Five Ten Galileo Climbing Shoe

Rating for this product: 5 September 27, 2009

These shoes require a lot of breaking in. But once you do it, it is soo worth it.

They stick well, they edge well, they smear decently. I have very wide, flat feet and they aren't particularly comfortable - but hey, they're not supposed to be.

You won't be disappointed.

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I love how it changes the balance

Black Diamond Head Blank

Black Diamond Head Blank

Rating for this product: 5 September 27, 2009

Really puts the weight in the front of the tool, which makes my swings easier and my arms less tired. Obviously not the choice for alpine adventures.

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Great for what it is

Gerber L.S.T. Knife

Gerber L.S.T. Knife

Rating for this product: 5 September 27, 2009

What it is: an ultra-light, shi#tty knife that you won't care about, don't mind losing or destroying, and will primarily be used for cutting cheese.

And it's great. Cuts cheese like a charm, doesn't rust, hasn't broken.

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Fantastic

Therm-a-Rest Prolite Sleeping Pad

Therm-a-Rest Prolite Sleeping Pad

Rating for this product: 5 September 27, 2009

Thinner than the older orange version, though they both claim to be 1 inch.

Still, incredibly comfortable, super-lightweight and low-bulk. I love how far inflatable mattress tech. has come in the last ten years.

Easy 5 stars, no cons.

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Great headlamp, simple design

Petzl MYO XP Belt Headlamp

Petzl MYO XP Belt Headlamp

Rating for this product: 4 September 27, 2009

I like the light weight, the simple battery-pack design, and the diffuser (wide angle vs. beam mode).

It could be a little brighter... hence the four stars. Fine for late-night descents and final-pitch topouts - not sure it could quite handle an alpine start in an alpine environment.

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Great headlamp, simple design

Petzl MYO XP Belt Headlamp

Petzl MYO XP Belt Headlamp

Rating for this product: 4 September 27, 2009

I like the light weight, the simple battery-pack design, and the diffuser (wide angle vs. beam mode).

It could be a little brighter... hence the four stars. Fine for late-night descents and final-pitch topouts - not sure it could quite handle an alpine start in an alpine environment.

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Eh... Decent responsiveness but they come undone often

Black Diamond O2 Telemark Binding

Black Diamond O2 Telemark Binding

Rating for this product: 3 September 27, 2009

I've skiied with these on my Havocs for a season now, with mid-stiff cartridges, and I wasn't very impressed. They transfer power okay but nothing even close to the responsiveness of a Hammerhead (or Bishop Bomber, for that matter).

They also came undone quite often, even when I tightened them down like crazy (on size 28 Garmont Ener-G boots).

And, unlike Hammerheads or 01s, they suck at touring.

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"Quiver of One"

Black Diamond Havoc Ski

Black Diamond Havoc Ski

Rating for this product: 5 September 27, 2009

Of course the very notion of a quiver of one is total BS. Yet these do pretty well.

Float in heavy powder, plenty of control on the groomers. I use them mainly on the East, but I like having the flexibility for taking them out West.

If your wallet will only support one ski, this is an excellent choice.

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Light and strong

Black Diamond Syncro Elliptic Trekking Pole

Black Diamond Syncro Elliptic Trekking Pole

Rating for this product: 5 September 27, 2009

Black Diamond has made huge advances with their trekking poles since my last pair. These are far, far lighter than my old ones, the Flicklock is more secure (though it can still slip when heavily weighted), the pole bends less (thanks to the elliptical design) and the single-length bottom section is ingenious.

If you hate the way screw-locks break and you don't like those damn shock absorbers, buy this pole. You won't regret it.

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Very light

Mammut Dyneema Crocodile Sling - 10mm

Mammut Dyneema Crocodile Sling - 10mm

Rating for this product: 5 September 27, 2009

Very light, nice and supple, highly durable. I own these in a number of different lengths, and they are my favorite Dyneema/Spectra slings.

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My go-to middle layer

Patagonia R1 Hooded Fleece Pullover - Men's

Patagonia R1 Hooded Fleece Pullover - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 September 27, 2009

WARM! This thing is super-warm for its weight and bulk (something to do with the weave, I think), the hood is dorky-looking but super functional (especially if you're going to be wearing it under a climbing helmet), the thumb holes are excellent and the change in the thickness in the lower torso makes it great for wearing under a harness.

Definitely my favorite midweight layer. I ice-climb in midweight Capilene, this and a shell, and then keep my down hoody on the harness for belays. So basically it's perfect for intermittent high-output activities in the winter.

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Lousy breathability, becomes a sponge unusually quickly

Patagonia Rain Shadow Jacket - Men's

Patagonia Rain Shadow Jacket - Men's

Rating for this product: 2 September 27, 2009

This jacket was never very breathable, but it was light and it was waterproof. For about 2 years - then it became a sponge. I reapplied DWR coating (twice) to no avail, and finally returned it to Patagonia. I love Patagucc gear (especially my DAS, my down hoody, and my long underwear) but their h2NO fabric is far, far behind its competitors. Buy your rain gear elsewhere.

Two stars because it started out waterproof, and because Patagonia guarantees its gear as well as or better than any company on earth.

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Worst Mammut rope I've ever owned

Mammut Phoenix Climbing Rope - 8mm

Mammut Phoenix Climbing Rope - 8mm

Rating for this product: 1 September 27, 2009

In the past I have been a huge fan of Mammut ropes - they are supple and workable, and (especially my favorite, the Infinity 10.0) they last a long time.

These ropes did not even come close to meeting those expectations. I took them on a single trip (the Torment-Forbidden Traverse in the North Cascades) and they were both totally trashed after just five rappels. One took a core shot and the other had an abrasion that is close enough to a core shot that it needs to be retired.

This is frustrating because a. I didn't take any lead falls, b. the damage points were at quite different spots, so it wasn't as though a particularly sharp edge did them both in and c. Mammut has been extremely uncooperative in living up to their warranty which, according to their website, should cover the ropes except in cases of improper use or normal wear and tear.

Well, five low-angle rappels leading to a core shot is not normal wear and tear in my book, and frankly I was expecting a bit more from Mammut as a company.

I've liked their ropes in the past, but these ropes couldn't handle alpine rock and Mammut won't stand by their products. Here I come, Edelweiss.

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Totally inadequate

END Stumptown 8.5oz Trail Run Shoe - Men's

END Stumptown 8.5oz Trail Run Shoe - Men's

Rating for this product: 1 June 21, 2009

Worst shoe I have ever owned. Started to fall apart after two days of semi-rugged use (trail walking, some rock scrambling). The soles are delaminating, several of the loops that hold the laces broke, and they offer almost no support at all. Serious waste of $65.

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Leatherman Skeletool Multi-Tool

May 13, 2009

Ahh - Brian is right. And right there is reason enough to drop the extra dough on the CX.

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Leatherman Skeletool Multi-Tool

May 13, 2009

Not really a question - I just thought it is worth pointing out that Leatherman is explicit about the blade being made from 154CM, not 420C - and 154CM is a significantly superior steel.

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Evolv Stryker Approach Shoe - Men's

May 11, 2009

How much do they weigh?

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Sold Out

Best Boots I've Ever Owned

La Sportiva Makalu Mountaineering Boot - Men's

La Sportiva Makalu Mountaineering Boot - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 December 29, 2008

Owned these for about five years now and they are easily the best boot I've ever owned. They do everything - I've taken them to the deserts of New Mexico, all over the White Mountains of NH, into Nepal for trekking/mountaineering in the Khumbu region.... they've handled everything. They're a heavy duty boot and they fit me wonderfully - but I have wide, flat fleet. With a many coats of mink oil, they are 100% waterproof. They aren't insulated, but can still handle snow and even vertical ice if you've got a nice warm sock. Buy these boots - you won't regret it.

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$150!! WTF?

Mammut Slackline Set

Mammut Slackline Set

Rating for this product: 1 December 29, 2008

NO. DO NOT BUY THIS. Buy yourself sixty or seventy feet of 1-inch tubular, three ovals and a nice present for your wife. Then buy yourself a bottle of the Glenlivet. Now treat yourself to dinner, and maybe a movie. You'll still be saving about forty bucks and you won't look like an idiot.

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes | 4 No

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Best shovel ever

Voile Telepro Shovel

Voile Telepro Shovel

Rating for this product: 5 December 29, 2008

They haven't changed this shovel much, from what I can see. I've had mine for about six years and it does everything - kickers, the car, kitchens - never had to dig a friend out (thank god) but you get the idea. Never even managed to dent the thing. Just about perfect capacity, not too big, not too small.

Pros: D-Grip! I like mittens, what can I say? Unbreakable. Blade becomes a snow anchor. Extendable.
Cons: Heavy. Not ideal for long tours.

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The piece for serious mountaineering

Patagonia DAS Parka - Men's

Patagonia DAS Parka - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 December 29, 2008

Absolutely the piece for serious activities in serious mountains. Bomber construction, very warm, helmet-awesome hood, gets all the details right. Not as light as down but that's the whole point - warm when wet. Wear it around Camp 4 on those surprisingly chilly May evenings, wear it while you're belaying cooking up some grub at 10,000 feet in the Canadian rockies, wear it while belaying your buddy up Dracula @ Frankenstein.

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Good piece- VERY warm

Ibex Woolies Crew - Long-Sleeve - Men's

Ibex Woolies Crew - Long-Sleeve - Men's

Rating for this product: 4 December 29, 2008

I like its athletic cut, I like that it isn't itchy (though I don't wear it as a base layer- I put it over a capilene medium crew), I like that it's light, and I like that it's a natural material. All that said - this shirt is VERY warm. If you're going to be active, don't wear this unless it is very, very cold out. I live and play in Vermont and I wouldn't wear this for an aerobic activity if it were more than 10 degrees.

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Easily the best ice screw out there

Petzl Laser Sonic Ice Screw

Petzl Laser Sonic Ice Screw

Rating for this product: 5 December 29, 2008

Light, doesn't have an annoying handle mechanism like the Grivels, and is much easier to operate with bulky gloves than the BD Express. Comes with the cool ice flute thing for storing and racking. I think the best feature is that it's easy to use with bulky gloves, but the reduced likelihood of dropping a screw is pretty sweet too. Worth the money.

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great harness

Petzl Adjama Harness - Men's

Petzl Adjama Harness - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 December 29, 2008

Light enough to use in the mountains, comfy enough for sport climbing. Safe buckles, good gear storage, durable. I love this harness.

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Go-to rope for about two years

Mammut Galaxy Climbing Rope - 10mm

Mammut Galaxy Climbing Rope - 10mm

Rating for this product: 5 December 29, 2008

This rope is fantastic. I had the 60M Superdry Yellow, and like all Mammut ropes, it starts out very supple and workable. This rope took a lot of abuse - two trips to Yosemite, a trip to Red Rocks, plenty of time at Cathedral and ice climbing in the White Mountains. Took plenty of falls, though nothing over 20 feet. Finally retired it about six months ago - but it's still in pretty decent shape. No sheath slippage, no hour-glasses. I'd buy another one in a second if I had $210.

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My favorite pack

Marmot Eiger 35 Backpack - 2100-2300 cu in

Marmot Eiger 35 Backpack - 2100-2300 cu in

Rating for this product: 5 December 29, 2008

Had one stolen (full of stuff!) and immediately bought a replacement. I don't own very many pieces of gear where that would happen. This pack does everything - cragging, mountains, ice, ski, weekend trips, etc. etc. Owned one for about 5 years - even bought a newer Marmot pack (one of their superlight ones of similar size, slightly more features, it has that ultralight material and frame. it's not commercially available because I got it at a vendor's tent sale) and I still like the Eiger better. Fit can take a heavy load, the brain is the right size, and the simplicity is wonderful, especially the single clip for the lid.

This is a fantastic pack.

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La Sportiva Makalu Mountaineering Boot - Men's

December 23, 2008

They'll do okay. The feedback on these I have had is that the soles aren't as grippy in cold/wet conditions as they are on Trango's and Nepal Evo's. Crampons do fit very well on these though so with those you'll be fine.Hope that helps.- I used to ice climb in them and they work great. Only thing is that with Grivel G14s, the front-points become a little set back - not as aggresively shooting out from the front due to the way the crampon fits the boot. Still, I've climbed plent of WI4 and 5 in these and they were wonderful, though not very insulated.

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La Sportiva Makalu Mountaineering Boot - Men's

December 23, 2008

Coat them in mink oil - and I mean many, many coats - and they wille be 100% waterproof. I've done lots of stream crossings in mine, literally wading in them, and have not gotten wet.

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Stood up to everything

Mountain Hardwear Alchemy Softshell Jacket - Men's

Mountain Hardwear Alchemy Softshell Jacket - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 December 22, 2008

I bought this jacket when it first came out six(?) years ago and I've worn it nearly every day of the fall and spring since, not to mention dozens of outing to climb ice and rock and everything in between. Excels in the mountains and around town. Easily the best jacket I've ever owned.

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Marmot Eiger 35 Backpack - 2100-2300 cu in

December 20, 2008

Yep - do it all the time. This is my go-to bag for a long weekend somewhere, mostly because I can carry it on. You might get some looks if its packed to the brim, so leave a little space and you're all good.

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