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Jacon Mayer
Trad Climber // Ice Climber // Mountaineer // Telemark Skier // Backpacker
Jacon Mayer:
#646
of 167,143
59 Reviews:
Helpful?
27 Yes
7 Questions:
Helpful?
2 Yes
31 Answers:
Helpful?
14 Yes
5 Photos:
Helpful?
12 Yes
0 Videos:
Helpful?
0 Yes
4 Comments:
Helpful?
2 Yes
1 Wishlists:
Helpful?
1 Yes
0 Field Tests:
Helpful?
0 Yes
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Stomping Grounds:
Vermont -
Bio:
Vermont local - climber first, sailor second, skiier third.
Rankings 
- #48 of 218 - Protection
- #49 of 743 - Ice Climbing
- #54 of 624 - Mountaineering
- #76 of 1,081 - Big Wall Climbing
- #79 of 984 - Mittens
- #150 of 481 - Climbing Ropes and Bouldering Pads
- #152 of 654 - Crampons
- #191 of 1,282 - Climbing Accessories and Training
- #192 of 1,370 - Backcountry Snowboarding
- #218 of 956 - Harnesses and Climbing Helmets
- #229 of 786 - Men's Harnesses
- #257 of 784 - Avalanche Safety
- #263 of 590 - Liquid Fuel Stoves
- #275 of 765 - Telemark Bindings
- #285 of 1,091 - Overnight Backpacks (2000 - 2999 cu in)
- #289 of 547 - Water Reservoirs
- #295 of 778 - 25 to 5 Degree Synthetic Bags
- #299 of 966 - Carabiners, Quickdraws, and Belay Devices
- #309 of 728 - Trekking Poles
- #317 of 504 - Shovels
- #320 of 540 - Belay and Rappel Devices
- #336 of 4,335 - Men's Footwear
- #337 of 842 - Men's Casual Pants
- #341 of 1,067 - Men's Mountaineering Boots
- #354 of 754 - 4-Season Tents
- #370 of 1,243 - Telemark Skis and Alpine Touring Skis
- #377 of 2,140 - Ski Gloves
- #398 of 845 - Climbing Skins
- #425 of 954 - Kayak Accessories
- #454 of 2,620 - Sunglasses
- #460 of 1,323 - Rock Climbing Shoes
- #484 of 700 - Navigation
- #485 of 1,763 - Summer Accessories
- #498 of 1,240 - Daypacks - Technical
- #503 of 1,540 - Headlamps
- #507 of 970 - Men's Accessories
- #536 of 909 - Men's Softshell Pants
- #550 of 813 - Men's Lightweight Long Underwear - Tops
- #606 of 760 - Lighting
- #611 of 1,172 - Lightweight Sleep Pads
- #625 of 5,089 - Men's Softshell Jackets
- #658 of 1,849 - Climbing Shoes
- #739 of 5,972 - Guys' Outerwear
- #973 of 2,270 - Men's Synthetic Insulation Jackets
- #1,058 of 1,568 - Winter Accessories
- #1,059 of 2,553 - Helmets
- #1,082 of 2,714 - Men's Trail Run Shoes
- #1,093 of 6,916 - Men's Jackets
- #1,136 of 2,628 - Goggles
- #1,192 of 1,529 - Men's Long Underwear
- #1,275 of 2,645 - Men's Rain Jackets
- #1,344 of 2,732 - 3-Season Tents
- #1,765 of 4,662 - Men's Fleece Jackets
- #2,069 of 4,474 - Men's Down Jackets
- #2,628 of 3,601 - Backpacks
- #3,471 of 4,087 - Men's Shirts
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Jacon Mayer's The Black Dike
Created November 23, 2009
This is what I took up the classic once-test-piece Black Dike on Cannon Cliff, Franconia Notch, NH. IV WI4 M3, I believe.
I also had: Grivel G14 crampons, Salomon Ice 9 boots, Patagonia Shelter Stone pants, a Patagonia Jetstream jacket, and several Yates screamers. The BD Vipers were the old model (they're better).
The leader had an old tiny no-name pack, the second carried the Marmot.-
Marmot Eiger 35 Backpack - ...
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Mammut Dyneema Contact Slin...
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Black Diamond Viper Ice Too...
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Mammut Infinity Climbing Ro...
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Petzl Adjama Harness - Men'...
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Petzl Tikka XP Headlamp
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Black Diamond Half Dome Hel...
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Patagonia R1 Hooded Fleece ...
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Patagonia Capilene 2 Crew -...
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Petzl Laser Sonic Ice Screw
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Black Diamond Stopper Set #...
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Patagonia Down Sweater Full...
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Patagonia Capilene 2 Bottom...
- Helpful Votes: 1 Yes |
See Full Wish List -
Alchemy in Nepal
Mountain Hardwear Alchemy Softshell Jacket - Men's
December 2, 2009
With Ama Dablam in the background. Wore it every day.
Helpful Votes: 3 Yes
0 Comments
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Aztar - Best when used with gloves
Petzl Aztar Ice Axe
December 2, 2009
Really.
Helpful Votes: 4 Yes
2 Comments
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Half-Dome keeping the dome safe and the colors bright
Black Diamond Half Dome Helmet
December 2, 2009
This is on Odell's Gully, Mt. Washington. Beautiful day until we hit the alpine garden and felt the full 70 mph wind.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
0 Comments
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Cold day at Smuggler's Notch
Patagonia DAS Insulated Parka - Men's
December 2, 2009
It was cold that day - so naturally Chip put on every layer in everybody's pack. The DAS went on the outside, as it should.
Helpful Votes: 1 Yes
0 Comments
ye olde Tyrolean traverse
Petzl Ascension Handled Ascender
December 2, 2009
Lost Arrow Spire back to the Valley rim
Helpful Votes: 4 Yes
1 Comment
Black Diamond Absolute Mitten
February 7, 2011
Lobster glove on the inside would be the deciding factor for me - pass. But I don't like the gauntlet on the ORs ... I would like the insulation to extend the full length, so it's not difficult to get wet hands into them. Nothing's perfect.
Helpful Votes: 1 Yes
Arc'teryx Sigma AR Mitt - Men's
December 19, 2010
It seems fishy to me that these mitts have 400g of Primaloft 1 when their total weight is supposedly 205g. Hmmm...
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
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Stoic Welder Glove
February 1, 2010
How bulky? Any chance of leading ice in them?
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
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Black Diamond Cobra/Viper Strike
December 26, 2009
Do they fit on the old Vipers?
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
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Julbo Dolgan Sunglasses - Spectron 4 Lens
December 18, 2009
Opticus (www.opticus.com) will put prescription lenses into these.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
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Petzl Clipper Quick Attach Leash
December 17, 2009
Just one.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
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Petzl Sarken Crampon
December 13, 2009
Definitely go with the leverlock. It's easiest and most secure.
Helpful Votes: 1 Yes
Black Diamond Venom Adze Ice Axe
December 9, 2009
I've been wondering the same thing, so I'll throw in my two cents. Haven't used either, so take this with a grain of salt.
At 50 cm the Venom is 4 ounces lighter than the 52 cm Sum'tec. It's a 19% weight difference which I think is reasonable to distribute across all the other lengths, though I can't find data on the weight of longer Venoms. If you adjust for the 4% difference in lengths, it ends up being a 16% difference. That seems fairly significant, especially when we're talking about a quarter-pound and above.
Also, this seems like the sort of axe you would always use with a leash. So while a hand rest is nice for comfort and finger protection, it is hardly necessary.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
Black Diamond Ice Screwup
December 8, 2009
Yeah. A 22cm will only barely stick out.
Helpful Votes: 1 Yes
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CAMP USA Nylon Tricam
December 8, 2009
PINK! PINK PINK PINK PINK.
Okay, I love my pink tri-cam, but the answer depends on why you're getting them. If you want them as a lighter-weight option in the mountains (to save yourself from carrying big cams), get the big ones.
Personally, I find I use pink, red, brown and the smaller blue the most (.5, 1.0, 1.5, 2.0). I don't have the littler guys yet, but I've always wanted smaller-than-pink tricams.
Hope this helps.
Helpful Votes: 2 Yes
Atomic RT86 Ski
December 2, 2009
I can't help you with all of those questions, but I can say that you sound almost exactly like me in terms of skiing habits - 80/20 resort/backcountry, a couple trips out West each year, etc. My current setup is Havoc 175s, Garmont Ener-Gs and BD 02 bindings. I'm very, very happy with the Havocs and Garmonts, not so much with the 02s. I'll probably replace them with Hammerheads when I can afford it.
The Havocs take BD clipfix skins well, but I'm not a big fan of the clipfix system - too many gobs because you can't tighten 'em down.
Overall, the Havocs have really been a great ski at VT resorts, and they handled themselves well in Utah and Jackson as well. Hope this helps.
Helpful Votes: 1 Yes
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Millet Radikal Boot - Men's
November 10, 2009
Good! These are a technical ice boot, and will work well on basic ice right through sh*t-your-pants WI6 M8.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
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Black Diamond Cyborg Pro Crampons
November 9, 2009
Step-in, no question. More secure, easier to get in and out of - generally better. The only reason you might want the clips would be if you were planning on using the crampons with boots that aren't designed for step-in crampons, but the Mantas are, and Cyborgs really aren't the sort of crampon you would want to use with a tamer boot anyway.
Helpful Votes: 2 Yes
Patagonia Friction Belt
November 4, 2009
Anyone know where one can buy that sort of buckle, sans belt?
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
Black Diamond RPM Backpack - 1587cu in
October 28, 2009
Actually, the new models are hydration compatible. So says BD's website.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
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Black Diamond RPM Backpack - 1587cu in
October 28, 2009
Sorry, Angus, allow me to clarify my question:
Would anyone who has skied with THIS pack care to comment on its performance, when used for skiing?
Specifically, I'm curious about the ultra-wimpy hipbelt and how you felt about it.
Helpful Votes: 2 Yes
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Stoic Tour Softshell Pant - Men's
October 21, 2009
It's warm. How warm? Warmer than non-insulated softshells.
Helpful Votes: 1 Yes
Metolius Kids Mega Pack
October 12, 2009
You can if you have a way of drilling through the wall, and it isn't very thick.
That said, you would need to glue the nuts on the other side of the holes, as the little barbs on the T-nuts won't dig into concrete as they do into wood.
"10 meter length" is not very clear - how high is the wall? Even so, 35 holds will almost certainly be too little for a 33-foot long wall. You'll probably want closer to 100.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
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Patagonia Down Sweater Full-Zip Hooded Jacket - Men's
October 4, 2009
I have the pullover and I tried one of these on at the Patagucc store in San Francisco... it's the same thing. The thing you lose (which I love so much) is the kangaroo pocket. But maybe switching to full zip is an acceptable trade.... hard to say.
Seriously, though, it's the same thing.
Helpful Votes: 1 Yes
Grivel G12 Crampon
October 3, 2009
Unfortunately, Grivel North America went under.
Go to www.themountaineer.com. It's a store in Keene Valley, NY, and as far as I can figure out it is the only place in the US that still carries Grivel parts.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
CAMP USA XLH 95 Climbing Harness
October 3, 2009
Do you mean in addition to a bosun's chair?
The answer is yes: it would be fine. Light and low-bulk. That said - are you climbing the mast or getting hoisted? If you're getting hoisted, you will definitely want a bosun's chair - this thing is not going to be comfortable. If you're climbing.... um - get hoisted.
As a backup for a bosun's, this is excellent.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
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Petzl Vasak 12-Point Mountaineering Crampon
October 3, 2009
I'm afraid not. Sorry.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
Sterling Chain Reactor Canyon Sling
September 30, 2009
The idea is to avoid the daisy chain problem (see http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Be17lI-rVyU). And for that it works well - all the loops are full strength, unlike a daisy chain.
That said, it's still a static anchor connection, which is dangerous. If you get hit by rockfall or are precariously balanced above your anchor, this is not particularly safe. I highly recommend you look into tying yourself a Prussel Prusik, which is both more useful and safer.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
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Black Diamond Chaos Harness
September 28, 2009
In my experience (and I still own a Petzl harness, and am still a big fan), BD harnesses are quite a bit more comfortable.
Also, the Chaos is actually less bulky because of the fancy new polymer stuff that Arc'teryx started (BD calls it Kinetic Core Construction - whatever). Extremely low profile, even compared to the Sama.
So lighter, more comfy and less bulky.... yeah, go Chaos.
Helpful Votes: 2 Yes
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Petzl Aztar Ice Axe
September 28, 2009
Agreed with Stan. They are very poor leashless tools, and have no modular attachments to make them better. WI4 would be the max I would go leashless with them.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
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Black Diamond Cyborg Frontpoint
September 28, 2009
I take it you mean Grivel crampons - no, it won't.
Fortunately, there is one store in the US which still carries Grivel frontpoints (after Grivel North American went under). It's called The Mountaineer, it's in Keene Valley NY, and they have a website.
So clutch.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
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Mammut Austrialp Neve Step-In Crampon
September 28, 2009
Contact Mammut directly: 1 802 985 5056
They're in Vermont.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
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Grivel Quantum Tech Ice Tool
September 28, 2009
Alas - ice tools are always sold individually except on eBay and Craigslist. So they're not just expensive, they're really, really f%$$ing expensive.
Helpful Votes: 1 Yes
La Sportiva Nuptse Mountaineering Boot - Men's
September 28, 2009
Heavy! Those two weights probably reflect different sizes (I realize that makes no sense, but there is is). Mountain Gear lists the weight as 6 pounds, so the answer is probably closer to 5 lbs 10. And obviously, the bigger the size you need, the heavier they'll be. You ain't gonna be dancing.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
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Petzl Irvis 10-Point Crampon
September 28, 2009
No - you'll need to get the extender bars.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
Leatherman Skeletool Multi-Tool
May 13, 2009
Ahh - Brian is right. And right there is reason enough to drop the extra dough on the CX.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
Leatherman Skeletool Multi-Tool
May 13, 2009
Not really a question - I just thought it is worth pointing out that Leatherman is explicit about the blade being made from 154CM, not 420C - and 154CM is a significantly superior steel.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
Evolv Stryker Approach Shoe - Men's
May 11, 2009
How much do they weigh?
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
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La Sportiva Makalu Mountaineering Boot - Men's
December 23, 2008
They'll do okay. The feedback on these I have had is that the soles aren't as grippy in cold/wet conditions as they are on Trango's and Nepal Evo's. Crampons do fit very well on these though so with those you'll be fine.Hope that helps.- I used to ice climb in them and they work great. Only thing is that with Grivel G14s, the front-points become a little set back - not as aggresively shooting out from the front due to the way the crampon fits the boot. Still, I've climbed plent of WI4 and 5 in these and they were wonderful, though not very insulated.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
La Sportiva Makalu Mountaineering Boot - Men's
December 23, 2008
Coat them in mink oil - and I mean many, many coats - and they wille be 100% waterproof. I've done lots of stream crossings in mine, literally wading in them, and have not gotten wet.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
Click to read all of Jacon Mayer's contributions... Be patient. It might take a while.
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