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Matt Oakley
Camper/Hiker // Climber // Biker // Trad Climber // Mountaineer // Ice Climber // Mountain Biker // Hiker
Matt Oakley:
#223
of 167,234
55 Reviews:
Helpful?
25 Yes
6 Questions:
Helpful?
4 Yes
42 Answers:
Helpful?
12 Yes
1 Photos:
Helpful?
2 Yes
0 Videos:
Helpful?
0 Yes
6 Comments:
Helpful?
0 Yes
0 Wishlists:
Helpful?
0 Yes
0 Field Tests:
Helpful?
0 Yes
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Stomping Grounds:
Adirondacks, Catskills, Gunks -
Bio:
I like bikes! I like climbing and hiking and stuff too. I'm really a giant gear junky. When I'm not working or playing I'm usually trying to figure out what piece of gear to buy next.
Rankings 
- #6 of 1,323 - Rock Climbing Shoes
- #16 of 479 - Climbing Ropes and Bouldering Pads
- #17 of 1,082 - Big Wall Climbing
- #26 of 1,068 - Men's Mountaineering Boots
- #26 of 654 - Crampons
- #27 of 740 - Ice Climbing
- #33 of 628 - Mountaineering
- #33 of 786 - Men's Harnesses
- #59 of 916 - Kids' Footwear
- #63 of 226 - Protection
- #65 of 1,166 - Kids' Gear
- #93 of 2,399 - Car Racks
- #99 of 1,365 - Backcountry Snowboarding
- #102 of 966 - Men's Accessories
- #119 of 398 - Climbing Packs and Bags
- #124 of 540 - Belay and Rappel Devices
- #137 of 903 - Lifestyle Sunglasses
- #148 of 591 - Liquid Fuel Stoves
- #173 of 962 - Carabiners, Quickdraws, and Belay Devices
- #178 of 1,284 - Climbing Accessories and Training
- #189 of 5,095 - Men's Softshell Jackets
- #197 of 985 - Mittens
- #212 of 926 - Men's Shorts
- #216 of 2,271 - Men's Synthetic Insulation Jackets
- #235 of 729 - Trekking Poles
- #260 of 565 - Lightweight Gloves
- #272 of 2,143 - Cookware
- #279 of 1,092 - Overnight Backpacks (2000 - 2999 cu in)
- #285 of 1,241 - Daypacks - Technical
- #316 of 1,850 - Climbing Shoes
- #348 of 2,520 - Men's Ski Pants
- #355 of 562 - 0 to -40 Degree Down Bags
- #433 of 795 - Stoves
- #464 of 912 - Men's Softshell Pants
- #468 of 955 - Harnesses and Climbing Helmets
- #534 of 1,058 - Canister Stoves
- #534 of 3,089 - Men's Technical Shells
- #842 of 2,695 - Gloves
- #932 of 1,705 - Sleeping Bags
- #1,247 of 1,961 - Weekend Packs (3000-4500 cu in)
- #1,528 of 2,322 - Men's Pants
- #2,536 of 3,601 - Backpacks
- #2,627 of 4,343 - Men's Footwear
- #2,875 of 4,434 - Women's Footwear
- #3,016 of 5,970 - Guys' Outerwear
- #4,081 of 6,920 - Men's Jackets
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Thule Sidearm Universal Bike Mount
October 20, 2011
it will fit. but you will need different brackets for the rear mount, should be cheap
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
Patagonia Nano Puff Hooded Insulated Jacket - Men's
October 9, 2011
These little jackets are pretty nice to layer with your DAS if its really cold or as a stand alone jacket on warmer or sunnier days where the DAS is too much. If its in the 30s or warmer this may be all you would need to belay as long as its not too shady or windy. I have a similar jacket and find myself using it all the time.
Helpful Votes: 1 Yes
Black Diamond Wiz Kid Harness
October 9, 2011
It means that you dont have to double back the webbing on the harness for it to be safe. This makes it faster, easier, and safer to adjust while climbing.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
Nikwax TX-Direct Spray-On
October 9, 2011
The spray on stuff works a little better than the wash in typically because you will get a higher concentration of stuff.
as to how well it will work on your jacket I don't know... if you jacket is Gore-tex or the like it should work fine. If it is just nylon you may want to try another water proofing spray. I have not had great luck with this on straight nylon.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
Grivel G1 Crampon
October 6, 2011
A strap crampon like this should go on any boot. you will probably need to get extended center bars if you have big feet though.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
La Sportiva Spantik Mountaineering Boot - Men's
October 6, 2011
I would suggest going somewhere that stocks the boots or ordering several different sizes. Then you can try on the boot and pick the one that feels best and return the rest. My roommate just did several large peaks in Boliva in the Baruntse and really liked them.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
Nike Paul Rodriguez 2.5 Skate Shoe - Kids'
October 5, 2011
Add it to your cart and you can check the shhipping based on your zip code
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
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La Sportiva Batura Evo Mountaineering Boot - Men's
October 4, 2011
It is attached to the boot. The outside layer is really just a shell to cover the boot up and add some insulation. The shell is quite snug to the boot..
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
Arc'teryx Gamma MX Softshell Jacket - Men's
October 4, 2011
A softshell will likely be too warm for those temperatures. I would typically only wear a windshirt at most in moderate temperatures like that.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
Petzl Dragonfly 8.2mm Half Rope
October 4, 2011
you might be better off getting a Beal Rando rope. it is skinnier and only 30m long. that way you dont have to carry a ton of rope that you probably wont need. you will also save a big chunk of change
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
MSR Quick 2 Cooking System
October 4, 2011
Talk to MSR they may replace it for you on warranty or should at least be able to help you get a new one.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
CAMP USA Corsa Nanotech Ice Axe
October 4, 2011
These are all very aggressive tools for ski touring...But, I like the BD and Petzl because they have replaceable picks. The petzl has a cool little sliding rest that you can move on the shaft to use it on technical terrain easier, and a slightly less aggressive pick than the BD, that would be my choice.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
Black Diamond Neve Strap Crampons w/ABS
October 4, 2011
The neve is an aluminum crampon mostly for glacier travel. It is very light but not as durable. This would be fine if you are not going to hit hard ice or rocks. If you want something more durable go with the BD contact strap crampon.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
La Sportiva Makalu Mountaineering Boot - Men's
October 4, 2011
You would likely want to send them back to sportiva to have them resoled.
If your boots are that worn out though it is probably worth replacing the whole boot.
Helpful Votes: 1 Yes
Mammut Mirage Harness
October 4, 2011
This harness would do fine in the ice and snow. Its fully adjustable as well so it should go over your clothes pretty easy.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
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La Sportiva Ganda Approach Shoe - Men's
October 4, 2011
I got the ganda 1/2 size bigger than my Nepals, and other Sportiva hiking shoes.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
La Sportiva Ganda Approach Shoe - Men's
October 4, 2011
Not sure how they compare to 5.10 but I ended up going a 1/2 size bigger in these than in any of my other sportiva shoes. These run quite narrow, particularly in the toes (my little toe gets rubbed wearing these)
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
Black Diamond HoodWire Carabiner
September 15, 2011
The other main advantage besides what James said is that these wont freeze closed when you are ice climbing like a solid gate biner may.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
Edelweiss Oxygen SuperEverDry Climbing Rope - 8.2mm
August 18, 2011
I'm looking for a double that will hold up better than my current ropes. How does the sheath hold up on these? Do they get all fuzzy easily or do they hold up pretty well?
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
Beal Ice Line 8.1mm Goldern Dry Rope
August 18, 2011
I'm looking for a double that will hold up better than my current ropes. How does the sheath hold up on these? Do they get all fuzzy easily or do they hold up pretty well?
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
Millet Prolight 35 Backpack - 2135cu in
May 3, 2011
I regularly use my similar 38L pack stuffed to the max as a carry on with no issues.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
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Petzl Reverso 3 Belay and Rappel Device
November 23, 2010
Matt, can you use your "physics" to explain how distributing the force over 2 ridges puts less force on a rope than doing it over 3? I would love to hear the explanation on this one... If your follower takes a "big whipper" and pinches the rope you need to learn how to belay. If you are belaying a leader with either device you will not be able to hold the rope tight enough to cause the rope to be pinched in the bottom of the device.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
Black Diamond Sabretooth Pro Crampon
September 19, 2010
You may want to go with Cyborgs if you want to do ice climbing. The cyborgs are quite versatile and are designed more for vertical ice.
Helpful Votes: 1 Yes
Black Diamond Sabretooth Pro Crampon
September 19, 2010
Yes these are compatible with the Makalu boots. They have a toe welt for the front bail on the crampons. These should attach to ski boots with a bit of adjustment as well. These are very good overall crampons and can handle pretty much any winter endeavor.
Helpful Votes: 2 Yes
Metolius Safe Tech Deluxe Improved Harness - Men's
September 19, 2010
I would go with the BD. There is nothing to be gained with this harness for a beginner climber. I would suggest getting something like a the Speed or Momentum. Get something fairly inexpensive and if you get really serious with climbing you will know what kind of features you are looking for in an upgrade.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
Metolius Safe Tech Deluxe Improved Harness - Men's
September 19, 2010
I would go with the BD. There is nothing to be gained with this harness for a beginner climber. I would suggest getting something like a the Speed or Momentum. Get something fairly inexpensive and if you get really serious with climbing you will know what kind of features you are looking for in an upgrade.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
Black Diamond Chaos Harness
September 19, 2010
if you are going to use it in cold weather at all with extra layers on go with a medium. Other than that I prefer to have the waist sinched up more so the padding is covers all of my waist, so I would likely go bigger anyway.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
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Black Diamond Wired Hexentrics
September 19, 2010
It depends on the size of the hex. The larger ones have a hole about 5-5.5mm with a 3-3.5mm cable
Helpful Votes: 1 Yes
Black Diamond Camalot C4 Package #0.5 - 3
September 19, 2010
Try and Build up a rack slowly if you don't have a lot of money. If you have other people to climb with that have gear then its easy to use their stuff and find out for yourself what you will want on your rack.
I know a lot of people including myself that start with cheaper stuff like a set of nuts, hexes, and tri-cams. These are all pretty cheap. Then you can start buying a cam or two here and there when you have the money.
In the end though you need cams, there is no good way around it if you want to be a part of the modern sport.
Helpful Votes: 2 Yes
Grivel G14 Crampon
June 14, 2010
These are both similar and very capable crampons. The anti bots work very well on both with a slight advantage to G14s. Both can be converted to dual or mono point. The BDs have more adjustability in the bails which is nice in the front in particular to adjust exactly where your toes are. That was my main reason for going with BDs but either will be a very solid crampon.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
Grivel G14 Crampon
June 14, 2010
I have a friend that uses new matic g14 for technical ice and really likes them. As far as gracier travel they are a bit aggressive. If you use them for that keep them dual point. The antil bots ore quite good on them.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
Cassin Turbo Stream Ice Screw
June 14, 2010
These are considerably heavier than BD Express screws and almost 2x the price. WTF?
Helpful Votes: 1 Yes
Black Diamond Express Ice Screws
June 14, 2010
Not really a question but here are the weights of the screws:
10cm 122 g
13cm 134 g
16cm 145 g
19cm 159 g
22cm 168 g
Helpful Votes: 3 Yes
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Outdoor Research Mentor Pant - Men's
June 8, 2010
I thought these ran a bit big. Im 6'2" 33" waist and a medium is good in length but a bit sloppy in the cut. These allow for generous layers underneath for me.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
Wild Country Ropeman Ascender
February 21, 2010
These are much better than the tibloc for this situation. The tibloc will just tear up your rope and may not catch. This being spring loaded means it may have a little more drag but it will catch the rope. These are not as light either but they are not bad and are very small.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
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Black Diamond Pilot Softshell Glove
December 21, 2009
I am thinking about getting a glove like this for belaying on warmer ice climbing days (~20-40F) I want something dexterous, durable, and weather resistant (A little warmth would be nice too) Any suggestions? Would these be a good choice?
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
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La Sportiva Nepal EVO GTX Mountaineering Boot - Women's
December 8, 2009
These boots are a very good alternative to plastics. They are very good for winter mountaineering and climbing. They are the most comfortable boot I have ever used. I use them for everything in the winter from technical climbing to long days hiking. Be careful doing over night trips, keep them warm so they do not freeze.
Helpful Votes: 1 Yes
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Lowa Mountain Expert GTX Mountaineering Boot - Men's
June 19, 2009
I would go with a Black Diamond Sabertooth Pro (step in/ full bail) crampon. They are durable and very capable. A grivel G12 would be another good choice but I would go with the BDs
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
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Yakima Q Towers - 1 Pair
June 11, 2009
Can you get replacement rubber pads for the bottoms of these towers?
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
Black Diamond Sphynx Backpack - 1953-2563 cu in
June 9, 2009
These packs come in in S/M and M/L in both 32 and 42 Liter. The size is for your torso not the volume of the pack
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
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Yakima HighRoller Upright Bike Mount
May 27, 2009
This rack is built better than the cobra. Less structural plastic and more metal. The trays are stiffer and wider. The system for locking the front wheel in is better as well.
This would be my second choice to the side arm. The side arm is cheaper, stiffer, and has less to go wrong with it. These racks have a better locking system and are a little quicker to get a bike in place. Overall you can't go wrong with either. The big thing for me was the cost.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
Black Diamond Cobra/Viper Fang
April 25, 2009
No. This will only go on the newest Gen of vipers and cobras. You may be able to make the viper fang for pre 2007 vipers work on those tools.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
Black Diamond Sabretooth Clip Crampons with ABS
April 25, 2009
you will want a pair of automatic crampons for those boots but any crampon binding system will work on those boots. if you have large feet you will need extension bars
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
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Thule Transport T2
April 24, 2009
I have a couple of side arms which are pretty much the same thing. Out of curiosity I tired to steal my own bike off of my car with it locked. I had the bike off within about 20 seconds. As others have said a cable lock through the frame will help. But in real life locks only keep out the honest people, if someone wants your bike they will probably get it.
Helpful Votes: 1 Yes
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Zipp Speed Weaponry 404 Wheelset
January 21, 2009
Clincher is the tire. clincher tires are standard tires that use tubes. the other type is sew up tires. I won't go into pro's and cons of each as they are numerous.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
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Black Diamond Viper Strike Leashless Attachment
November 15, 2008
It should go on pre 2007 Viper tools. BD has a weird way of labeling products. If you want parts for pre 2007 tools you want the Viper Fang, Strike or android leash. If you want parts for the 2007 tools you want the Cobra/Viper fang, strike, android leash.
Helpful Votes: 0 Yes
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Click to read all of Matt Oakley's contributions... Be patient. It might take a while.
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