I would only try shrinking pieces for minor tweaks or if they get stretched out. It seems like when you try to shrink something say to make it snugger, it ends up just making the body of the shirt shorter--it never seems to shrink the direction you would like.

To answer my own question in case anyone else was wondering the same thing--I leaned on them with my 185 pounds, bounced them a bunch on the ground and didn't hear much sound in terms of the antishock activating. Certainly no more than a person would make moving through the backcountry anyway--we're not exactly ninjas. And as to weight, if these things are "heavy" because of the antishock I have no idea what light would be. They seem quite lightweight to me. OH and the travel isn't ridiculously deep so it doesn't seem to make things unstable. If it was big travel say 2" and soft I could see it being an issue, but it's about 1" and somewhat firm.

Perhaps not "like crazy" but there was some pill'age when I ran mine through the dryer for a bit. I've only washed it twice and now I air dry if it needs drying at all.

I don't think there's a specific Black Diamond technique persay. I had the same problem on a pair of Leki's I bought and had to resort to a needle nose pliars to get enough twist/pull to get the caps off! You don't have to worry about scuffing up that cap really, it's not meant to do anything but cover the sharp carbide tip when you're not using them. Once you have them off and then want to put them back on, it might be best not to crank them on as hard as the manufacturer did. I'd say to slick them up before putting them back on, but you don't want them to fall off while in transport and have those carbide tips start poking holes in things.

Hey Gene, I actually checked directly with Big Agnes when spec'ing for my dad (he's 6' 280) and they had recommended the Park series as well. These sleeping bags are a good 20"+ larger in circumference than normal bags at shoulders and hips so they'll be your best bet. Additionally, if even this bag ends up being snug they sell a wedge you can zip in to give you another 7" width wise--it won't help with height. http://www.bigagnes.com/Products/Detail/Accessory/WedgieBagExpander

suprisevalley -- I measured about 16" from the bottom of the bag (Long) to the start of the zipper. You do end up having separate foot boxes--since the zipper ends at the hood technically you have separate headroom as well. As to temps when zipped together, this will be opinion, but zipping the bags together isn't something you do to be functional. It's a fun here and there feature for when you're feeling snuggly. Think of it as being in bed but instead of having the openings of the sheets on the sides of the bed, where you can pull them back if you're too warm, the opening is in the middle between you and your partner. It limits what you can do to regulate that heat and really given it's two mummy bags, when zipped together it's either lay there shoulder to shoulder, or spoon. (Back to back perhaps if you're fighting, but then you wouldn't probably zip together in the first place.) The wife and I have combined bag-forces a few times, but mostly keep our bags close, but separated.

Long answer short: the only time you would zip two bags together for function over fun would be perhaps in a hypothermia skin-to-skin situation.

I'll tweak both answers and add that what matters most isn't the length of the zippers, but that they're the same type of zipper. As long as they're the same type (YKK #8 for example) and mesh properly it actually doesn't matter if one is longer than the other. As an example I have the Cat's Meow Long (TNF) and my wife obviously has the women's version and though its zipper is shorter it just means the zipping ends where her zipper ends--my zipper could keep going further up but doesn't. It's not a problem, just a limitation.

Not to be contrary but if it's lightweight merino wool it would be completely fine in 70 degree weather as long as you're not running sprints. I've gone hiking in Phoenix in heavier weight merino than this and had the temps go from upper 40's at base in the morning to upper 70's lower 80's after going up a thousand feet and found that the wool pieces regulated the heat very well. The sleeves should be stretchy enough to push up to help dump heat. If you're still concerned about it being too warm, get the quarter zip version so you can get rid of even more heat if necessary.

I posted on the equivalent question on the synthetic vest, but will add here that down feathers can leak out a little bit, but you shouldn't get poked by any (I'm assuming that might irritate more.) If you're thinking lower bulk like this vest vs the synthetic, as opposed to the higher volume Nuptse, then I'd be partial to saying go with the synthetic fill just in case--they should be nearly the same thermally. If you want to be sure, head to a big box athletic store and stick your face in one of their puffy vests. Given the probably lower quality, if you don't have problems with their vests, then this one should be even less of a reaction.

That might not necessarily be true. If you size up and find out that it allows gaps to form in the torso or makes the arm holes too big then all of your thermal efficiency is left to the wind--literally. North Face isn't as athletically cut as some of the companies out there, so I don't know that I'd automatically jump a size. I think sticking to the sizing chart is best.

Just like sleeping bags synthetic can be just as warm as down, just not as light for that warmth. Also the companies seem to normally design their synthetic pieces to be more layer friendly (under or over) and as a result they have a bit less loft/warmth to them. But the trade off is that these slightly less warm but slimmer synthetics will more easily fit under a shell jacket making a very warm system. I don't think down is going to be so much warmer that you should should think about enduring an allergy to use it. Just know you might need another layer under the synthetic insulation coat just in case, or a shell to go over it to seal in the heat even more so. Backcountry.com just put a little info out on this as well: http://www.backcountry.com/store/dc/801/Backcountry-Down-vs-Synthetic.html?sssdmh=dm10.110867&cmp_id=EM_SAL1157a7&mv_pc=r105&ep_rid=1252287

Over a year ago, but I can't resist answering--It looks like the Odin series at Helly Hansen is only men's products. Unfair perhaps, they don't seem to have this hybrid type top in a women's version at all. See I can keep the answer professional, but you can't stop the imagery that is floating in my head!

Click the chat button in the upper right and ask one of the Reps to go check. They can go look at the actual product in house. I've pestered them enough on things like that (though they're always very friendly.)

No one's weighed in yet that has the shirt. I have other Backcountry.com products and I have other merino base/mid layer tops and I'd say go with the XL. I'm 6'1" 185 and I'm in a Large without a lot of room to spare, but I have an XL Icebreaker 200 that fits fine as well. Since you've got me on height and size and since they're stretchy pieces XL should work well. If somehow you find XL too big (it won't be) just bump it a few minutes in the dryer CAREFULLY--but it won't get to that, XL is the way to go.

Calm down. Not everything that comes out of China is toxic waste painted with lead. They've got some good information on their website about the manufacturing process. Consider it propaganda if you will, but unless it's all lies it looks like they're taking the necessary steps to ethically produce their product outside of New Zealand.

I would just tweak Dave's detailed answer to add on the Nuptse that rain and down coats do not mix--at all, I'd take that one out of the running. Jackets like the Bionic really rely on how well you layer for the temperature. They block wind which helps a ton in keeping you warm, but if it's below say 40 and you aren't moving, if you're just standing around, you'll get cold if you don't have proper layers on underneath. I'm assuming the hood on the Bionic hoodie is going to look a bit "scuba" not that there's anything wrong with that, in worst conditions keeping your head windproof warm would be very nice.

No, neither detachable nor stowable (word?). Think hoodie more than hooded jacket.

Those are intended to hold your skis. There is a place for a reservoir in the pack.

To get a Rep from Backcountry click the "Chat" button in the upper right corner of the site. They respond quite promptly and I've had them check colors on things before. They're very helpful.

There is a Long, but even on the Montbell website it only says available "Soon" as of 10/18/09. Looks to be max height 6'4" and weight 2lbs 2oz. I'm betting given the range price backcountry has set up above they're going to sell both once it's available.
EDIT: Addition, Long is now available, the listing doesn't show the wieght but their website has what I noted above.

You might want to Live Chat with a sales rep to confirm the posting of Absynthe as a men's color option. I only found one other reference to it as a men's color and not on the Westcomb site. Though if it is correctly posted, you should be able to go off Westcomb website which has that Women's jacket in the Absynthe color (a pale greenish it looks to be.)

Well, no one has chimed in yet. In looking at the three bags on TNF's website (and having a Cat's Meow myself) the specs have the Baetis slightly narrower in the shoulders but wider in the hips and foot area and it is 1oz heavier. The Kazoo and Chrysalis have identical size and weight specs and all three have the same size stuff sack. The $40 difference between the Kazoo and the Chrysalis seems to be a few bells and whistles in the construction of the Kazoo, including ground level seams, some small patches of Climashield insulation on pressure points, a watch pocket, some more technical construction of the hood. Zipper length on the Kazoo and Chrysalis will most likely be the same going down to about calf height, the Baetis looks like it goes a bit further down perhaps (given it looks less technical this may make sense). Hope that helps if you're somehow still undecided.

Just in case no one has this bag to answer for sure, I'll just throw out there that if you've only had synthetic bags up to this point, it can seem hard to believe it'll stuff that small, but I've got a 40 degree down bag that I could stuff in a Nalgene bottle if I wanted to, so I'd believe 12x6 would be no problem for a 20 degree.

Yes and Yes. I have a Mens Long Cat's Meow and my wife has a womens Long Cat's Meow and though the zippers are of a different length they mate, but the zippers on mummy bags don't go all the way to the very end of the bag, so there is still a section at the very bottom that will remain separate. Just make sure if you got the Long Left that she gets a Right zipper, or one of your bags would end up needing to be flipped upside down!

You're right, it's so much more expensive than all of the competing 15 person expedition grade tents out there.

Yes if you mean will they fit in Factor, Factor Max or Factor D Max frames (all the same frames). No if you asking if they literally are the same as any of the polarized lenses. These are the clear lenses that came with your smith Factor frames, in the Factor Max lens shape.

Don't know why the 2007 review says it's removable--the BC description says no and the Foursquare website confirmed it. Drop hood that is separate from the collar so when you have it tipped back the collar can still stand up protecting you from wind.

I live-chatted a sales rep since the pictures looked different. Super helpful Zack confirmed hood does not come off the furry version either.

(9 month's later) I have a Smartwool beanie and it's pretty deep. I'd say it depends on how much hair you're cramming under the hat more than the head size. If it's standard dude hair or even shorter then no problem. Smartwool hats are stretchy like their clothes--and nice and thick.

Not sure I can help exactly but I have an Icebreaker beanie, and while I have short buzzed hair, it came down over 2/3 of my ears (that is until I got stupid and threw it in the dryer after washing it...now it's about 1/2 down my ears if I crank on it.) Some of the other styles would fit further down Like the Apex for sure.

Perhaps not helpful now that it doesn't seem to be an option, but looks like "swoon2183650" confirmed what couldn't be seen in the picture--the chill contrast color was on the inner hood. On the website it looks like now the black option is purely black (inner hood as well.)

Beyond fall you'd need another layer. "Nano" puff is quite thin. This is like a sweater with synthetic insulation instead of wool. Chicago's going to get way too cold for this to be your actual jacket deep into fall and certainly winter, though it'd make a great insulating layer under a shell and over a base or two.

This is an old question on a now out of stock item, but I have to correct you. Angus has good info on like a million other items, but his reference to ordering 2 pairs must have been other types of Smiths. I have these glasses, and to describe it in detail from outer packaging to inside was :Box that says Smith, in the box was warrenty info papers and stickers etc. AND a hard clamshell zipper case. Inside that case is the frames with 1 set of lenses in place, 3 other sets situated in the velcro attached lense holder--inside the case. No baggie included at all--just the case.

The description on their website says its lightweight and photos on the site have the way it's hanging on the model look just looser than athletic cut, perhaps casual.

I would generally agree with mobo2112 on temp ranges and that I've done runs in a 200 weight. Though I'll add that ran a marathon in an Icebreaker competitor Smartwool Midweight which I'd place right between 200 and 260, like the 220 GT maybe, at 45 degrees and I was absolutely fine. The thing is merino allows sweat to hang around long enough to get the evaporative (word?) cooling effect in either brand shirt. Synthetic can pull the sweat away too quickly. In fact I'd say the only thing to keep in mind is that as soft as merino can feel, on longer runs it can beat up the nips.

I own the Smartwool Lightweight bottoms (they're not showing up on the site now oddly enough), and I own a few Icebreaker tops. I'm thinking it could be close to a Coke v. Pepsi type decision except in this case I like both clothing companies' products (but hate Pepsi!) I think the Lightweight of Smartwool is slightly thinner than the 200 weight of Icebreaker, that's closer to or just under Midweight in the Smartwool. My bottoms have been surprisingly abrasion resistent (or i've been insanely lucky) as I've gone down on my bike wearing them and hit my knee hard enough to take off a large patch of skin UNDER the longjohns but somehow they weren't ripped. I would assume though that given it's a woven fabric it would begin to pill up under the constant slight friction your knee brace would provide. Sorry I can't narrow the choice though I can say I'm highly satisfied with my Smartwool Lightweight Bottoms.

I'm 6'1" 185 and I go with Large. I've gotten XL in Icebreaker underlayers and had them be just a bit too big (though being wool it's not hard to shrink things) but in the Smartwool Large works great. Remember these layers work best against the skin vs being loose, AND they stretch quite well (I would recommend air-drying them regardless of the tag--dryers and wool are mortal foes.) Unless you're both taller and thicker than me I'd go Large for sure.
As to weight, Lightweight is a great base layer under everything, Midweight I'd stick to baselayer when it's 50's or cooler (though merino regulates heat most exelently!) The other day I went Lightwight crew under Midweight crew under expedition weight quarterzip under Backcountry Siphon Hoodie for a night out alleycat biking and bar hopping in 25 degree weather and it almost literally saved my life, but also never felt overheated.

I would think the 3rd spine would make these a bit stronger than the TNF stakes, that and they're a snazzy red vs. the plain metal of the TNF stakes. The only counterpoints I can think of are that the TNF stakes might be just a teeny bit lighter, they nest together considering their V shape and the per-stake price on TNF is something like $.30 cheaper? Personally i've hammered in the TNF stakes into a variety of ground and haven't felt like they were in danger of going wonky on me.

unless you were aiming for another product, these are "one size fits all". These hats are stretchy, though that doesn't guarantee how far they'll come down on your ears.

I bought these glasses from REI (don't worry I buy plenty from Backcountry) and they came with a hard clamshell case out of the box. SO unless Backcountry is opening the boxes and keeping the cases for themselves they do come with a case.

A women's specific fit runs under the general assumption that women have smaller hands (my wife is an excellent example--tiny hands!) and are often times shorter than men. They reduce the size of the grips to make them more comfortable, and they remove some of the length in the poles to save weight not unlike women specific sleeping pads (the length-weight issue.)

As to usage, my aunt does a lot of roadwork with nordic walking poles. You may want to look into those if you're not going to do any hiking offroad with these--the carbide tips won't help you as much on tar or concrete.

Yikes perhaps you've been lucky but I would not put wool in the dryer. At least not the thinner weaves of this style. now if you're trying to shrink it, it's possible to do so (I've done it with an Icebreaker piece that got a bit too big) but micro-manage the process! Short intervals in the dryer. Last thing you want is for the width to stay unchanged but have it completely shrink length wise or some other unfortunate occurance.

Almost nothing Icebreaker sells could be considered relaxed. So that option is out. Between regular (somewhat of a subjective term) and Bodyfit, it is not technically found under their Bodyfit line, but all the same every piece I've gotten on the men's side, as well as my wife on the women's side has been form-fitting. Along the lines of "athletic fit" clothing except for the slim fit pieces which cling even more but are stretchy.

Just like the question about using the harness for paragliding, you have to ask yourself, would you rope in with plastic clips? The best bet would be to contact Ruffwear directly to find out the tensile strength of the clips (assumedly they would be the weakpoint, but then again I'd be doubtful of the strength of any stitching on the nylon webbing either.) As the other answer below states, the vast odds are that while Ruffwear will want to promote the strength of the materials for controlling your dog, they aren't going to sign off on lowering the dog off of a cliff.

My friends used mine (which work with my stove as pictured above and they have a different looking on-top-of-the-canister stove. Depending on how the little arms of the Giga fold up you may or may not get the metal donut shaped piece lying flat just under the burner in the picture to work with your stove, but even if all you are using is the large ring of metal, just fold tabs in the very ends so it will clasp together around your stove and it should still show gains in efficiency.

What brand are we talking about, or rather, what's the insulation like. If it's like my old discount special then it's a denser loft that doesn't compress all that well as with stuff sacks you're often literally stuffing the item in there at random orientations to keep from repeatedly folding one area every time. If it's a denser loft that "stuffing" action is going to be very difficult and it's going to be very bulky.

If it's one of the more modern techy lofts--Primaloft etc.--then you've got a good chance of using maybe the XL, MAYBE the L but I'm doubtful. When you scrunch or roll it up right now what kind of dimensions are we talking--if you roll it up, fold it in half first and then roll it TIGHT and get out a ruler.

It's a women's jacket. They're all women's sizes.------------------He may mean that whole 8, 10, 2, 0 stuff. If he does those numbers are meaningless from company to company anyway. Use the sizing chart right under the size/color options dropdown to gauge which size she needs.

The graphite is waaaay black. I've checked the tag a few times and it does say graphite, but it looks black to me.----------I second Brian on this, I have "Graphite" and if it's not black, then the official black must suck the light out of a room.

They have slightly different patterns, the AR vest is basically last years SV vest.-----------------------------------------I tried on the AR and then bought the SV lured by the 50% off, the huge difference is the shoulders of the AR are the 2-way stretch which keeps the arm holes tight. The SV has the Powershield all over and the shoulders end up flaring out too far and not conforming as well to the shoulder joint making a big scoop for cold air. (I refused to believe the others who said this and I was proven wrong.) I'm sadly sending my SV back.

I would say I have a medium head, I wore the SL2's as noted above. I would say these are close to the head, but the glasses have more clearence from your cheekbones because you don't have frame to bump up against. You could possibly go with the Factors instead of the Factor Max's and that would raise the bottom edge of the lenses up, but would reduce coverage in windy/fast moving situations a bit. As to the crown or brow width, I think these are a solid medium especially considering they didn't change the size between the small-Factor medium-Factor Max and Large-Factor D Max lenses.If nothing else, go to a wretched SunglassHut or suitable brick and mortar/mall shop, try them on, and then buy them from backcountry!

Hi there, both M and L are pretty much same body and sleeve lenght, major diff is in chest. If you wear other gear in L in chest, stick to L in Icebreaker. Same for M sizes.---------------I'll include that if you go with any of the layers that refer to being "Slim Fit" you can size up to get extra length in the sleeves and torso without creating any loose material width wise. I normally wear a L in icebreaker (6'1" 190) and have the Oasis Crew 200 in an XL and it is just fine and gives plenty of sleeve and torso.

vertical, sorry man.-------------------If you look at the picture on the blue colored underwear you can see the fly opening on the right side of the underwear. I do have to say though, "horizontal fly"?? that's odd, don't worry though it's not like the edges are sharp or something--your stuff should be safe.

According to Mountain Hardwear it has "One handed hood, waist and hem drawcords." Most synthetic insulation jackets are thinner than their puffy down jacket counterparts. Perhaps a good example is Mountain Hardwear's Compressor jacket, which has the same Primaloft One insulation and I've tried on and wasn't bulky at all. I would assume they wouldn't leave that one trim and totally bulk out this jacket. If you are really looking for a trim fit I would suggest going with more of a shell without insulation and layering underneath with low profile garments like synthetics or even better--merino wool.

The only hooded vests on Backcountry are for women and little girls. -------------Blunt, but true. I guess you could get creative on a jacket/hooded sweatshirt that had sleeves. Layering of other hooded items, turtlenecks or perhaps a balaclava are going to be your only other options.

With either jacket you could pretty must go lay out in the snow in Chicago. Looks like one main difference would be the hood where the Expedition is wire braced. Of the two my opinion is the Nomad for more waterproofing and versatility. Though honestly (I live in MN) I think you could probably drop down a level to something not as extreme and save some $$$. I mean one of the reviews on the Expedition says it'll be to warm if it's above 10 degrees out!

The lining is consistent throughout. Polarguard has been the standard synthetic for decades & is more expensive to produce. Neither insulation is as good as down.---------Unless you consider it getting damp (I know, you shouldn't let it) in which case it is better, and cheaper.

Well, I purchased two men's long, one left zip and one right zip. They zip together amazingly well and the two of us are toasty and happy. ---------------I have a mens long and my wife has a womens long, and even with a slight length difference we can zip them together fine.

Yes, in fact to zip together two sleeping bags, they need to be opposite side zippers (LH/RH). Also if the two bags aren't the exact same one, or the male and female of the same one, then make sure they are the same zipper type.Checked their site "Two-Way Zipper Sliders For Venting and Mating of Bags. Reversible Slider Tabs for Easy Use Inside or OUtside of Bag"

You can see a general map by going from the main menu to Settings>General>Map and then select Yes for Show Map. As to Lat/Long when you then go into main menu, Navigation>Mark Location it will show Lat/Long.

You can see a general map by going from the main menu to Settings>General>Map and then select Yes for Show Map. As to Lat/Long when you then go into main menu, Navigation>Mark Location it will show Lat/Long.

If it was on steep and cheap, the version to buy would also show on the outlet side of Backcountry.com. There it would be at least not full price (though possibly limited in size/color etc.)EDIT: Looking at the history where it should link to the outlet side--whatever overstock they had seems to be gone now, sorry. (not official info, just what I have/haven't found.)