185cm will be plenty long for you.

this is always a tricky question. Boot Center is always the safest option. Offsetting 1-2cm towards the tip will help in the park and/or powder as it keeps your center of balance more over the center of the ski. Moving towards the tail 1-2cm generally aids with carving and probably isn't recommended for these skis.

I used to have an Atomic Beta Ride ski with a binding that allowed you to slide the binding forward/back 3-4cm for different conditions. Occasionally I would forget to set the binding for that day and wonder why I was skiing poorly until I realized that I was powder mode while skiing groomers

Hope this helps

I think the 182 would be fine for your weight/hieght. The 189 is a wider ski (+4mm at waist) with less of a sidecut. As an ex-midwesterner having a versatile ski is important because you never know what the snow condition will be when you travel. If you only planned on using this for powder days, 189 would be the way to go.

I have owned a lot of Patagonia gear over the years and all of it has held up will. I don't have any experience with these shoes, but Patagonia has a well earned reputation of building quality products that last. I wouldn't let durability be a concern. If for some reason they don't last as long as you expect, both Patagonia and Backcountry have outstanding customer service policies and will repair/replace/refund them without question.

And then, write us a review after you've worn them a bit :)

Yes, this is a good all-around harness, and on sale it a great price.

You'll want to look for a frame that Smith calls OTG (Over The Glasses). I've worn the Knowledge OTG for a few years and have been reasonable happy with them. If you get warm a lot when skiing, consider spending the extra $$ on a model with a fan or prescription lenses to avoid fogging.

Here is their complete selection of OTG Goggles:

http://www.smithoptics.com/products/#/Goggles/Snow+Goggles/Over+The+Glass+OTG/

This rack utilizes the standard Thule lock cores, but are sold separately so you can get all the locks on your rack system to have the same key. This is what you need:

http://www.backcountry.com/thule-lock-cylinders

I second the XL. I'm 6'2", 205lb and I have two of these in XL

The hip belt/waist strap on most packs, including this one, are not removable. A lot of people will shorten the strap down the clip it together at the base of the pack so it sits between the pack and their back when in use. You loose the benefit of the strap this way, but it works for class etc.

Backcountry.com has a real-time inventory system. Therefore if the size/color isn't list, then they don't have it in stock. This is last year's color, so they may be getting a new shipment in soon, but Mammut may have discontinued this model.

For general gear recommendations you will probably be better served by clicking the Chat Now button in the top right. They can also help you with shipping. Depending on the current promotions, they don't promise free shipping to be fast, but in practice items are normally shipped by the next day. You may want to upgrade to 2nd day shipping just to be safe.

Here are a couple light wind jackets that I recommend. Both are about 4oz, but the Patagonia one also has a hood:

http://www.backcountry.com/marmot-trail-wind-jacket-mens
http://www.backcountry.com/patagonia-houdini-full-zip-jacket-mens

The Summit Series is a collection of many different products, so I'd need to know exactly which fleece you have in order to compare. The TKA 100 is most likely about the same or lighter than what you currently have.

Escapes typically come with a 1 1/4". I would strongly recommend that you buy a rack with the correct size hitch because it will give you a more solid connection to your car than if you have to use an adapter.

You can technically add the adapter and it will work fine. However, I highly recommend getting the rack that is the correct size for the hitch on your vehicle. Having fewer connections makes the rack more stable. Using an adapter is fine to add flexibility, but buy the size rack that matches the hitch of your primary vehicle and adjust from there if needed.

You may be able to fit a smaller canoe, but this is really designed for whitewater kayaks. These brackets should serve you well for a canoe:

http://www.backcountry.com/yakima-gunwale-brackets-set-of-4

It should work just fine for you with these paddles. I would caution others, that some paddles (like Werner) have slight elongation places for your hands. If you tried this approach with those paddles, your grips would be off center.

There is no sales tax when shipped to CA. Sales tax is only for orders shipped to UT.

As for entry level paddles, I really like Werner paddles. They enter the water very smooth and stable, and are typically lighter and more adjustable than their competitors. They are a bit more expensive, but I think it's money well spent. Below are links to a Werner paddle and an Aqua Bound. If you can't afford the extra for the Werner, the Aqua Bound is a good alternative.

http://www.backcountry.com/outdoorgear/Werner-Skagit-FG-IM-2-Piece-Paddle-Straight-Shaft/WER0059M.html

http://www.backcountry.com/outdoorgear/Aqua-Bound-StingRay-Aluminum-Shaft-Paddle-2-Piece/AQB0008M.html

I would describe it as very water resistant, but I would not rely on it for an extended period in a downpour. The exterior pocket on the flap has a taped zipper as well. If you want to carry it while walking to the car/bus you should be just fine. The fabric is DWR coated and very thick, so it'd take a while for it to get soaked though.

I have a 16' poly tandem boat, about 75lbs and it is rock solid in this rack. I've had it around 70mph and it doesn't move. If there is much of a cross wind while driving you will feel that since it acts as a large sail when the wind hits the cockpits, but i don't worry about the boat moving.

One time I put the rack on a friends Grand Cherokee and I didn't get the rack tightened tight enough to the cross bars and the wind caused it to shift a bit, but it wasn't going to go anywhere. So make sure you tighten the rack securely to your crossbars as it can be a bit of a challenge.

Bottom line: you won't be disappointed with this rack.

Typically there is room, but it truly depends on the length of the bars on your car. Also depending on which type of control tower you are using, sometime you can mount the box so part of it is just outside of the control tower on the side of the vehicle. Just be careful with stability and overhang.

There are also some other boxes that are narrower that are better suited to being alongside a bike rack. Since vehicles vary in width, you'll just have to measure and see what you come up with.

Google doesn't update the prices from the sites it searches in real-time. It can take a week or so for Google to update prices. This means that sometimes the price changes once you click through to the actual site selling the item. In this case the $637 was probably for a discontinued color and they sold the last one before you clicked over to Backcountry.

It is technically possible, but it depends on your exact configuration and isn't generally recommend, so I'll give you some things to consider.

The width of this box is 36", plus you'll need some room between the two to allow for easy opening. The classic Rocket Box is only 24" wide, and might be the box you saw doubled up in the past.

Depending on the type of towers/mounts you have for your crossbars, you should be able to mount the box so one side of it sits outside of the side rails of your tahoe. This means you'll need long enough bars, and it will overhang the side of the vehicle.

Another problem with two boxes is weight. Most base racks are rated for about 150lbs. The Sky Box 21 weights 62lbs, so with two you are already at 124lbs which doesn't leave much for cargo.

Without knowing your exact situation, if you aren't using your hitch for anything, I would recommend looking at a hitch mounted cargo box (Thule makes a couple) or other type of hitch carrier instead of the second box. It may be time to get a trailer instead.

The front wall is fine, just make sure that it is mounted securely and you'll be in good shape.

Yes, this rack is adjustable and will fit nearly all cars, trucks and SUV's.

Generally speaking this sounds like a fine kayak for you. However, I recommend trying out a few boats before buying one. REI and other local paddle/outdoor gear shops often have free demo days. At these you can try out several different brands/styles/sizes of boats and see what works best for you. You may find that a seat made by one manufacturer is more comfortable than another.

The demo days that I've been to have had zero pressure to buy and you can get good advice from other paddlers, so it's a good way to spend an hour or two on a Saturday.

From the sizes currently available (170cm and larger) I'd recommend the 170cm. I wouldn't go any longer, as although you may have the height, weight is more important to determining proper ski length and I think you would start to have issues controlling this ski at a longer length.

Knowing what ski/length you have now is also useful information in providing a recommendation for a new ski. A more aggressive skier can handle a longer ski and therefore take advantage of its stability at higher speeds.

Those will work fine. You won't have 100% coverage towards the tip as 125mm < 134mm, but it's within an acceptable range. You'll need to trim a bit around the waist as well, but that's normal for any skin.

No, this is used to lock your fork to a Yakima bike rack that mounts at the fork. In other words, this is to be used while your bike is in transit on a bike rack, not while ridding.

Ken,

It's unlikely that the Goal Post will work for two canoes. Most canoes are somewhere around 35" wide, so unless you are able to stagger them enough, or get longer crossbars you won't have enough room for two boats.

To get one boat loaded, you'll also want a Thule Canoe Carrier. This will provide a fixed point on the crossbars to strap the canoe to. The Goal Post is rated for 165lbs, so if you are able to fit them both you won't be over the weight limit. You can also increase security and stability with a Thule Snug Tite, but this is optional.

This is a tricky setup that you are attempting, so my advice is to start early, order the parts and try it out, so you have time to adjust/adapt before you hit the road. Remember, Backcountry.com has a great customer service policy. If something doesn't work out, just send it back. You pay only a flat shipping rate (about $7).-

http://www.backcountry.com/outdoorgear/Thule-Canoe-Carrier/THU0023M.html
http://www.backcountry.com/outdoorgear/Thule-Snug-Tite-Lock/THU0057M.html

This rack should work just fine for you. Hitch mounted racks are very easy to install and very stable. Since the Escape doesn't have a spare tire on the back, space won't be a concern. You should still be able to open the glass with bike mounted.

Rob,

I believe that this is what you are looking for:

http://www.amazon.com/Thule-918-2-Bike-2-Inch-Receiver/dp/B000GT2W1K

The 240 should be the right size for you, depending on your boat. As a fellow adventure racer, I use the Werner Corryvrecken. It's more expensive, but you get a lighter paddle (which is nice in long races) and you get more feathering options to help with changing wind conditions, and to be able to use slightly different muscles. Also, if you have to carry your paddle in your races, consider a 3 piece paddle.

The rack 'should' work just fine. This rack will give you 9.5" of clearance from the pin on the receiver to the rack. Follow this link for more details:
http://www.thule.com/~/media/Products/Classification_1_root/Image_Hierarchy/ImageFolder_175958/ImageFolder_177588/Thule_Hitch_Dimensions.ashx

or if you can't find on that will fit, the Thule Spare Me would be another option:

http://www.backcountry.com/outdoorgear/Thule-Spare-Me/THU0109M.html

I'm guessing that you have a rack like the Thule T2 or Thule Roadway in which case you'll need one of these cylinders, but also the Thule Snug Tite STL2 (http://www.rei.com/product/755164).

The Snug Tite uses a bolt instead of just a pin, and this eliminates any movement between the rack and your hitch. It's somewhat expensive, but I leave my T2 rack on all summer long, and it's what I use and have never had an issue with it.

I have the Rain Shadow in black that is about 5 years old and still looks like new. I realize black is about as far from white as you can get, but because of the type of material the jacket is made of i would expect it to resist dirt very well.

Dirt won't penetrate the H2N0 membrane like it would a cloth fabric so you should be just fine.

I agree, this will be a good mount. I would suggest a taking a couple test drives with you bike before you start your trip as you may want to use a bike bra or fairing to protect your bike and reduce wind noise.

Also consider the Thule Wheel On to mount your front tire to the rack. This will save space inside your car.

There is a bit of stability loss. If you can use a threaded bolt instead of a standard pin, you'll retain most of the stability.

I'd recommend buying a rack with the correct size for your primary vehicle, and only use an adapter when necessary.

I've used this rack for 4 years and have not had a rust issue. It stays on my 2000 Explorer all summer and I park outside.

I believe that on a Tahoe you can open just the rear glass, and not the full tailgate. If this is the case you will likely be able to have access through this opening into the rear cargo area. The only way to know for certain is to try it out with your bikes. With my two bikes, I have about 1" clearance for the glass to open.

The other option is that the rack does fold down away from the vehicle the same way that it folds up and out of the way without bikes. This allows me to open the full tailgate with both bikes still on. The downside is that its heavy and awkward to do this and the bikes still partially block getting anything large out of the cargo area. It literally only takes about 10 seconds to load/unload a bike, so I typically just do that.

This rack is expensive, but if you plan on using it more than once or twice a year, or for long distances, it is worth every penny.

This jacket will keep you warm, that's not much of a question. As far as keeping you dry, this jacket won't shed water/snow like a good hard shell. It is thick enough and has waterproof panels in the places that you are most likely to get wet, that it's typically only the jacket that get's wet, and not you.

I personally prefer a hard shell with the appropriate layers underneath. But if you like an insulated jacket, you'll be happy with this.

I've got a different Patagonia web belt and it is about 40", so I doubt this one would be significantly longer. Sorry.

38.36 is the price for the XXL. Sometimes prices vary by size and/or color depending on supply/demand.

The LoadWarrior is rated for 140lbs of cargo. However, you need to keep the total weight of the rack and cargo under the weight limit of your rack. The LoadWarrior weighs 25lbs itself.

You'll need to check with your rack manufacturer (Yakima or Toyota) to determine the limit of your base rack. Most racks have a limit of 100-175lbs.

Yes, the bag can be used on your factory rack, providing that you have crossbars. This bag has webbing straps that need to loop around the cross bars and then back to the bag.

As long as you have cross bars, you should be fine.

I agree. The lightweight R4 is an amazing and versatile jacket. It's not bulky, but does a good job at keeping you warm. I'm sure you'll be happy with it.

As long as you have the roof rails running down the side of your Pathfinder, the rack will fit, but you will need to add crossbars first using the following products:
450 Crossroad | LB50 Load Bars

Please use the Thule rack configuration utility for more details.

I would go with the Medium's. This type of pant tends to have a longer rise, so the inseam doesn't need to be as long as in a regular pair of pants. I have a feeling that the Large's will feel huge around your waist.

I'm not familiar with this pant in particular, but that is my recommendation for this style of pants in general.

Gore-Tex Pro Shell is designed for extreme, long duration exposure, whereas the Softshell includes some insulation so you don't need as many layers. They are both great fabrics. Check out their website for full descriptions:

http://www.gore-tex.com/remote/Satellite/content/fabric-technologies-outerwear

I would advise against just blindly purchasing the same boot for everyone in your family. When you are in that type of situation, having good fitting boots is very important. Since everyone's foot is a bit different, I strongly recommend each person trying on various boots to see what fits best. Then make sure you wear them as much as you can before you leave so you can break them in and identify any hot spots, or determine if an insole (SuperFeet) is needed. Take time, and do this right and your feet will thank you.

It's usually better to size up. Keep in mind that in the winter you might have an additional base layer and you don't want your pants restricting your movement.

Obviously trying them on is always best, but if you don't have that option, remember you can always send them back to Backcountry if you don't like they way they fit.

I've been wearing Capilene for 5 or 6 years now and still have some of my original shirts, back when they were silk, light, med, and expedition weights. I haven't had any issues with them wearing out or getting holes. The Cap 4 will start to pile up a bit after a while, but it is much more durable than wool.

Keep in mind that the Capilene won't be as warm as a wool layer, so they aren't substitutes for each other.

Just to add my two cents, I prefer the Wool 3 for a lightweight, but warm layer. Whenever I wear it i'm amazed by how warm it is, yet how thin and light it is. I even wore it a couple cool mornings backpacking this summer and was amazed that I didn't overheat as quickly as I expected, so it breathes well when needed.

I'm not sure what you are planning to put on top of your car, so it's hard to suggest a rack. Thule makes a basket (http://www.backcountry.com/outdoorgear/Thule-MOAB-Basket/THU0097M.html) that's good for holding random gear, or they have many different size cargo boxes. Of course you'll need the appropriate towers & cross bars for your civic. Use the Thule Fit Guide to see exactly which parts are needed/compatible with your car.

If you are looking to carry something specific, include that in your question.

Personally I like the Marmot PreCip or Patagonia Rain Shadow. They are very similar, but a little bit lighter than this jacket. They are very basic, no frills jackets.

no.

Recumbent bikes come is all sorts of shapes and sizes, so it's hard to say exactly which rack will work best for you. You could look at the Thule T2, but it might not be long enough for your bike. You could also check out Cycle Simplex for some recumbent specific racks (http://cyclesimplex.com/).

Yes, it can. The only thing to watch out for is that you have enough clearance between the rack and the roof of your car/truck. On some vehicles the cross bars sit very low, or if you have bindings that don't fold down very flat you may have issues. It'll work in most cases, so I'd give it a shot.

I looked at some pictures of a Nitro w/ factory rack and it looks like it should work just fine.

My advice for rain gear is to go with something that packs small and is lightweight. They also aren't as warm, which is nice in the summer, but you can always put other layers underneath if its cold. I like the Patagonia Rain Shadow and Marmot Pre Clip. They are both very simple jackets. Basically they are just a single layer of waterproof fabric (N2NO HB and PreClip). They provide excellent waterproofing and are almost half the weight of the jackets you are looking for (cheaper too). This means they are smaller to stuff into a pocket in his pack.

Personal anecdote: I did a 12 day trip in Philmont over 10 years ago and didn't use my rain gear at all. I'm not saying that's typical though.

No. Use the Thule Rack COnfigurator at the top of the page to select the correct rack for your cab.

A 34 will be tight, so go with a 36 and wear a belt.

This rack isn't going to make loading any easier to load. It's designed to hold the canoe in place once it's on top of the SUV. The ability for one person to load a canoe on top of a SUV depends on the weight of the boat, strength of the person and vehicle height. If you are able to place the boat on top of the SUV, then one person will be able to operate the straps to tie it down.

As the description states, consider the Thule Outrigger, for additional help loading a boat.

Please contact Backcountry customer service for this type of question by using the Chat Now link or phone number in the top right corner of the page.

Yes. It mounts just like you attach your front wheel. The mount resembles the hub on your wheel. Disc brakes aren't a problem.

The Patagonia Alpine Wind jacket has a light lining, so it will be warmer than the Marmot Ion. The Marmot Ion is most similar to the Patagonia Houdini, but the Houdini is about 15% lighter and packs to a smaller size, for about double the price...

I would be careful with the Shot Blocks and other similar products as I've found they tend to melt in warm temperatures. This is one of the reasons I use GU energy gels. The shot blocks or energy gels are good for replacing electrolytes that you loose when sweating. Use about a serving an hour depending on your level of activity. As Bryan mentioned, avoid the flavors with caffeine. If weight is a concern, consider Endurolyte tablets from Hammer Nutrition.

For longer missions make sure you are replenishing your protein with a Cliff Bar or other similar energy bar.

The main thing you will want to consider is how wide all four kayaks will be when positioned on the rack including the width of the rack itself. You'll then need to make sure that this overall width doesn't exceed the width of your bars.

Since every boat is shaped a bit differently the only way to know for sure is to get the rack and boats and try it out. If you can get all four boats loaded and properly strapped down, then they aren't going to go anywhere in transit.

To gain extra width you can always use slightly longer crossbars, although I try to avoid this whenever possible.

I don't believe that Nissan made the Frontier in 1991, so I'm going to assume that you have a 2001, with the large tubular crossbars. This rack should fit just fine. Thule includes 2 different length bolts in the box, and says that for some larger factory bars you may need to purchase longer bolts. If this is necessary it would be only a few bucks from a hardware store. The Nissan tubular bars are really any wider that most other factory bars, they are just higher, and that is why you need the longer bolts. Always remember to check the Thule configurator at the top of this page to check your vehicle for sure.

This is a great rack (I personally own one) but my concern would be how far apart you can get the crossbars on your Frontier. How far apart they need to be depends on the length of your boat, but the further the better.

I'm 6'2" and have a couple of the Patagonia Cap 3 shirts. They aren't excessively short in the sleeves. I do have a Patagonia Wool 2 and that has very long sleeves and body. The sleeves easily cover my wrists. It can get tucked into your pants and shouldn't come out at all. The Capilline 3 are too short to tuck in for me.

Something else to consider are shirts with thumb holes. I can't think of any specifically right now, but I know they exist. These shirts have longer sleeves since they are designed to cover part of your palm as well. When you have your thumb in the thumb hole, the shirt covers your radial pulse point, and since the blood is so close the the surface of your skin here, keeping this point warm helps keep your whole body warm.

Yes, with Backcountry.com you can return anything at anytime for any reason. Check out their policy:

http://sales.liveperson.net/hc/s-9551721/cmd/kbresource/kb-5415593828453314421/view_question!PAGETYPE?VisitorProfile=BCS&sf=101133&documentid=239621&action=view

This rack has to be used with the tailgate up. It uses the gap between the bed and the tailgate to get secured in place. So the answer to your question, it'll work if the bikes will fit in the bed of the truck standing up. You can't gain extra length by lowering the tailgate.

I'm not sure of the length of your bikes, but my guess is that unless they are very small or kids bikes you'll have to get a rack that has you taking of the tires. Standard bike tires are 26" so that already puts you at 52" in length. so if you have more than 8" between the tires, then the bike won't fit.

In summary, once you get the Ridgline, try to stand the bike up in the bed and see if it fits with the tailgate up and not on an angle.

Backcountry only displays sizes/colors that they have available to ship. Other colors may be available from other retailers or direct from Patagonia.

Patagonia has various fit styles for their clothes. These pants are considered 'regular' fit. Check out their fit chart to get a better idea of how a particular item will fit. If it's listed as slim, you may want to go a size larger if you don't want them too tight.

http://www.patagonia.com/web/us/includes/product_size_pop_up.jsp?slc=en_US&sct=US&OPTION=HOWTOMEASURE_SIZE_CHARTS_HANDLER

Do you have the hitch extender only so that the bike rack will be far enough away from the spare tire? If that's the case, it should be just fine. Racks aren't 'recommended' to be used with extenders because they increase the torque placed on the hitch and because with the additional junction they aren't as stable.

My wife uses an extender on her Escape to convert her 1 1/2" receiver to a 2" for our Thule T2. It works fine, but isn't quite as stable as when the rack is directly into a 2" receiver.

cross bars are sold separately.

Yes.

Check out the Thule fit guide for all your options:
http://www.thuleracks.com/fg_vehicle.asp

This, or any rack of this general style is unlikely to fit. It does depend on exactly which year CRV you have, so I can't say for sure.

I would recommend one of the racks the attaches to a hitch on your CRV. If you don't have hitch you can generally add one for about $100. Bike racks that attach to a hitch are much more stable than the kind that rest on the bumper. It is more money, but it is money well spent and they are very versatile between vehicles.

Check out the Thule fit guide for your exact vehicle:
http://www.thuleracks.com/fg_vehicle.asp

Most airlines limit carry-on bags to 45 linear inches (ie. the total of the height, width, and depth of a bag). This bag is 14 x 12.5 x 7.5 and therefore is comfortably within the carry-on limits.

If you are looking for the largest legal carry-on bag, check out the Patagonia MLC

Yes, it's soft and floppy. It's fine for putting in a suitcase, but isn't something you'd put into a tiny stuff sack.

I would recommend Nikwax Footwear Cleaning Gel and Fabric & Leather Proof.

http://www.backcountry.com/store/NIK0030/Nikwax-Footwear-Cleaning-Gel.html
http://www.backcountry.com/store/NIK0046/Nikwax-Fabric-Leather-Spray-Footwear-Treatment.html

It's not cheap stuff, but it works and protects your investment.

I'm assuming that you are doing some sort of adventure race and I definitely would not use these shoes for that. Go with one of Salomon's trail running shoes with the quick tie laces. Stay away from the GoreTex since once the water goes over the top you are screwed, so you'll want quick drying. Salomon has a few styles to choose from, so see what matches your budget and your foot the best.

I second the vote for NIKWAX. I wouldn't use anything else. Don't ruin the waterproofing of your jacket just to save a few bucks on laundry soap.

Would this be good to wear everyday? Yes. But I wouldn't recommend it for a whitewater guide. Guides tend to carry more gear on themselves than a typical paddler, so I'd look for something that has more storage.

Yes. If you look at the picture of the rear cockpit, the child seat is the black box in front of the seat. It is just a slightly contoured plastic box for a child to sit on (legs forward). It is removable by two thumb screws near the cup holder on the dash. (seen as black dots in the picture) I don't have kids, nor do i ever plan to take kids in my boat, but I haven't decided if I am going to remove the child seat or not. It only takes about 30 seconds to remove. It hasn't gotten in my way yet, and it adds a bit of rigidity to the hull when transporting although i'm not sure how much it adds.

I have not worn these in particular, but the 'new' Capiline (Cap 1, 2, 3) resists odor much better than the older stuff (silkweight, lightweight, midweight).

(sorry it's not a great answer, but i figured some info was better than none)