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Dane Burns

AT Skier // Trad Climber // Ice Climber // Road Biker

Dane Burns: #48 of 174,379 Top 100 Gear Guru More Information

79 Reviews:

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54 Yes

2 Questions:

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0 Yes

109 Answers:

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16 Yes

56 Photos:

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21 Yes

0 Videos:

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0 Yes

16 Comments:

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6 Yes

0 Wishlists:

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0 Field Tests:

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0 Yes

  • Stomping Grounds:

    Snow and Ice...
  • Bio:

    Older than the Internet and still climbing. Pity the poor that don't get a day out!

    For more detailed reviews on alpine climbing gear take a look at my blog.

    http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/

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Hyper rocks!

Hyper rocks!

Marmot Hyper Jacket - Men's

June 16, 2011

This thing is way better than described or how it looks on a hanger.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Great combo...

Great combo...

Petzl Dartwin Crampon

May 20, 2011

Spantik and the Dartwin

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

2 Comments

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Steep rap!

Steep rap!

Metolius Belay Glove

May 20, 2011

And hot hands!

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

0 Comments

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Rap glove?

Rap glove?

Metolius Belay Glove

May 20, 2011

Steep rap in winter @ 12K feet.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Rapping!

Rapping!

Black Diamond GridLock Screwgate Carabiner

May 20, 2011

Perfect place for a Gridlock biner.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

0 Comments

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Narrona!

Narrona!

Norrøna Lyngen Down Jacket - Men's

May 20, 2011

Amazing climbing jacket!

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

0 Comments

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G12

G12

Grivel G12 Crampon

May 20, 2011

G12 on water ice

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

0 Comments

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G12 on mixed

G12 on mixed

Grivel G12 Crampon

May 20, 2011

G12 on M6...awesome chromoly crampons

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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TC?

TC?

La Sportiva TC Pro Vibram XS Edge Climbing Shoe

May 19, 2011

I great fit even with a thin sox...not the norm but comfortable.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

0 Comments

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DIN heel

DIN heel

La Sportiva RT Tech Binding

May 19, 2011

RT's DIN heel settings

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes

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DIN toe

DIN toe

La Sportiva RT Tech Binding

May 19, 2011

Din toe settings

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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wayno

wayno

Black Diamond Cobra Ice Tool

May 19, 2011

Carbon fiber being put to use.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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dry tooling!

dry tooling!

Petzl Quark Ice Tool

May 19, 2011

Jack on some fun French M8.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Outstanding......

Outstanding......

Dynafit TLT 5 Performance TF Alpine Touring Boot

May 19, 2011

as a dh boot and even better to climb and walk in.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

0 Comments

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Light!

Light!

Dynafit Low Tech Race Binding

May 19, 2011

light is always right unless it doesn't stay in one piece long enough to get some use out of it.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

0 Comments

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The rack!

The rack!

Wild Country Anodized Rock Sets

May 9, 2011

winter rock rack including WC stoppers

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

0 Comments

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slings!

slings!

Mammut Dyneema Contact Sling - 8mm

May 9, 2011

Winter climbing...alwasy bring the slings!

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

0 Comments

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Prime

Prime

Black Diamond Prime Alpine Touring Boot - Men's

May 9, 2011

glacier skiing on the Prime

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

0 Comments

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Looking up!

Looking up!

Arc'teryx Gamma LT Softshell Pant - Men's

May 9, 2011

Gamma Lts for everyone this day ;-)

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

0 Comments

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Snow conditions?

Snow conditions?

Arc'teryx Gamma LT Softshell Pant - Men's

May 9, 2011

-20C and Gamma Lt pants..

Helpful Votes: 3 Yes

0 Comments

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looking down

looking down

Arc'teryx Gamma LT Softshell Pant - Men's

May 9, 2011

Arcteyx pants in the alpine!

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes

0 Comments

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bad weather!

bad weather!

Arc'teryx Alpha SV Bib - Men's

May 9, 2011

Perfect place for a set of GTX bibs!

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Hirundos

Hirundos

Petzl Hirundos Harness - Men's

May 9, 2011

Skiing and climbing..great harness.

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes

0 Comments

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Petzl Hirundos

Petzl Hirundos

Petzl Hirundos Harness - Men's

May 9, 2011

Last year's version in bright green!

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

0 Comments

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Clippers!

Clippers!

Black Diamond Ice Clipper

May 8, 2011

Ya, just can't live without them!

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

0 Comments

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cold and windy

cold and windy

Petzl Meteor III + Climbing Helmet

May 8, 2011

But a well protected head ;-)

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

0 Comments

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Awesome helmet!

Awesome helmet!

Grivel Salamander Helmet

May 8, 2011

Merely a flesh wound ;-) Perfect hard shell!

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes

0 Comments

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Petzl!

Petzl!

Petzl Meteor III + Climbing Helmet

May 8, 2011

Don't go anywhere without one ;-)

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes

0 Comments

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Helix!

Helix!

Grivel Helix Ice Screw

May 8, 2011

Helix and a Mammut screamer on easy mixed, winter 2011.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Alpine Ice

Alpine Ice

Black Diamond Turbo Ice Screws

May 8, 2011

BD screw in winter alpine ice, Chamonix.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Alpine ice!

Alpine ice!

Black Diamond Express Ice Screws

May 8, 2011

BD screw into the hilt on winter alpine ice, the Alps.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Alpine ice!

Alpine ice!

Black Diamond Express Ice Screws

May 8, 2011

BD screw into the hilt on winter alpine ice, the Alps.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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winter alpine

winter alpine

Mammut Shock Absorber Dyneema - 16mm

May 8, 2011

Mammut screamer in use...

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

0 Comments

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Phantom Ultra!

Phantom Ultra!

Scarpa Phantom Guide Boot - Men's

May 8, 2011

The Guide's baby brother, lighter and just as much fun, Phantom Ultra!

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes

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Phantom Guide!

Phantom Guide!

Scarpa Phantom Guide Boot - Men's

May 7, 2011

Deep snow and -25C..perfect weather and conditions for the Phantom Guide!

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Jack!

Jack!

La Sportiva Batura Evo Mountaineering Boot - Men's

May 7, 2011

Batura where they belong..steep ice on Curtain Call.

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes

0 Comments

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Winter rock!

Winter rock!

Arc'teryx Atom LT Hooded Insulated Jacket - Men's

May 7, 2011

Atom on a cold and windy winter rock climb at 12K feet.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Dartwin!

Dartwin!

Petzl Dartwin Crampon

May 7, 2011

Perfect crampon for rock hard alpine ice..Chamonix 2/2011

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Nano in winter

Nano in winter

Patagonia Nano Puff Pullover Insulated Jacket - Men's

April 14, 2011

One of the best layering pieces available for cold weather climbing.

Detailed review here:

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/04/patagonia-nano-puff-pull-over.html

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

0 Comments

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ice

ice

La Sportiva Spantik Mountaineering Boot - Men's

April 14, 2011

Fantastic boot on technical alpine ice.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

0 Comments

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Atom Lt  on route

Atom Lt on route

Arc'teryx Atom LT Hooded Insulated Jacket - Men's

April 14, 2011

The Atom Lt makes a soft shell redundant in most winter climbing scenarios. Incredible jacket if used in the right place.

More detailed review here:

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/02/arcteryx-atom-lt-hoodyjust-how-good-is.html

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

0 Comments

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Atom SV on a winter route..-20C

Atom SV on a winter route..-20C

Arc'teryx Atom SV Insulated Hoody - Men's

April 14, 2011

Atom SV is one of the very best mid weight belay jackets available.

More on Coldthistle.blogspot.com

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes

0 Comments

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solo

solo

Petzl Dartwin Crampon

October 25, 2010

alpine ice in Dartwins

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

0 Comments

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winter alpine solo

winter alpine solo

La Sportiva Trango Extreme Evo Light GTX Boot - Men's

May 1, 2010

Great boots! One of the very best all around lwt alpine boots available. If you are looking for durability and a bit more warmth check out the Nepal.

Still over all this is an awesome boot, winter and summer in the alpine or on water ice.

Helpful Votes: 4 Yes

2 Comments

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Dynafit ZZero 4 Green Machine TF Alpine Touring Boot

March 14, 2012

Gotta agree with Sandy here. teh new boot really rocks. Buy it on sale if the cost is too steep for ya. But, I really like this boot. It skis like a premium dh race boot.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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stainless? Sorry, no way.

Grivel G20 Crampons

Grivel G20 Crampons

Rating for this product: 5 November 3, 2011

Who wrote this product description? Grivel doesn't make a stainless crampon.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

0 Comments

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Nomics are sweet!

Petzl Nomic Ice Tool

Rating for this product: 5 October 5, 2011

The previous review states, "The new Nomic is different. I have not compared the new and old side by side, but it seems that the main difference is in weight – the new is lighter and the swing feels slightly different."

I have compared and climbed with both side by side. Actually there is no difference between the old and new tools of what ever generation. *There an 8 g weight change* between the 1 and 2nd gen PICKS. The cut out on the pick makes the new pick 8g lighter. The newest 3rd gen tools with a steel insert in the pommel are heavier yet. BUT NO ONE is going to know the difference climbing on one or the other Nomic tools side by side. The ability to add a hammer can be had on the old with CT hammers or the new Petzl hammer with a little mod and labor. Only the serrated pommel makes them different and that is a subtle change.

For a detailed review of how different the two gen of Nomics really are more here:

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/11/old-nomic-and-new-nomic.html

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

1 Comment

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La Sportiva Spantik Mountaineering Boot - Men's

July 30, 2011

Great boot for Denali....
check out the coldthistle bog and reviews on the Spantik..

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Yowsers!

Dynafit Low Tech Lite Alpine Touring Binding

Rating for this product: 5 July 30, 2011

For the weight involved, and the relaibility this has to be the "deal" in low tech bindings. Having skied a bunch now in the LT Race hard to ignore the price point and added durability of the LT Alpine. Great binding but realise the differeence of "limited relase" that these offer over a pair of the traditional TLT Speed.

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes

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Still Awesome!

Dynafit Low Tech Race Binding

Dynafit Low Tech Race Binding

Rating for this product: 4 July 30, 2011

Just an update on these since I purchased a second pair. Still an awesome binding. And I like the simplicity of the lock only mode. But you have to realise and fully understand what that does. Glad to hear that Dynafit is again offering the steel option instead of Titanium only on the lcoking bolt. Now that the steel is offered and after a some serious down in these guys I'll give them a 4 star rating. Wish it were a 5 star but the lack of a flat boot and a higher heel riser..either would make them a solid 5..still going to hold at a four.

At the price...most will look at tehm with a very critical eye.

Either way they were my choice for bindings while skiing from Rainier, Hood, Baker and St Helens this spring.

More here on some other thoughts about this binding.

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/07/tech-bindings-aka-dynafit-bindings.html

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

0 Comments

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La Sportiva RT Tech Binding

July 27, 2011

Sorry my mistake..an adjustable toe and heel but not exactly DIN.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Dynafit Low Tech Race Binding

July 27, 2011

John beat me to this. IMO a design flaw as it could have so eaily been incorporated i nthe heel piece by an additional detent postion. So actually, no, just the elevated positon or locked. TLT5 boot heel interfers if you ride them flat. I had a Dynafit Center mount mine and thought there was something wrong with the mounting originally.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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La Sportiva Trango S EVO GTX Mountaineering Boot - Men's

July 21, 2011

Great boot for a simi technical route on a dry 14K. The weight of the boot and support make them fun to walk or climb in. This is a stiff hiking boot ;-) It is nto a full on 3 season mountaineering boot.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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La Sportiva Trango S EVO GTX Mountaineering Boot - Men's

July 21, 2011

Very, very similar boot for warmth, support and durability to the Scarpa. Buy the one that fits you the best.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Scarpa Phantom Guide Boot - Men's

July 21, 2011

Sabertooth fits but the fit could be better, The Ultra below is a Sabertooth with a Petzl front bail. Much better fit than the BD front bail on the Scarpa Phantom Series of boots. Petzl crampons are a better match up out of the box.

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes

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Arc'teryx Atom SV Insulated Hoody - Men's

July 21, 2011

Shell material is the same on the SV and the LT. But no stretch panels on the SV. SV shell material is not lighter, heavier or tougher, it is the same.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Unbelievable!

Marmot Hyper Jacket - Men's

Marmot Hyper Jacket - Men's

Rating for this product: 5 June 14, 2011

No clue this thing would be so stretchy. Or this water proof. Fit is exceptional as well. A best buy @ $200.

Helpful Votes: 2 Yes

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Simply a great ski....

Dynafit Se7en Summits Touring Ski

Dynafit Se7en Summits Touring Ski

Rating for this product: 5 May 22, 2011

I'm using a pair of TLTPs and a 163cm 7/7. Way better than I thought it would be in all terrain. Any Dynafit ski is going to be good but nothing wrong with the narrow skis. This might be a mtn ski but it is super sticky on ice and great in trash snow as well as powder. Lots of good skis around and this is one of the better imo.
When it comes to climbing or on the pack...nothing beats them short of a full race ski.

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes

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Dynafit Se7en Summits Touring Ski

May 22, 2011

I'm using a pair of TLTPs and a 163cm 7/7. Wayt better than I thought it would be in all terrain. Any Dynafit ski is going to be good but nothing wrong with the narrow skis.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Good gear...

Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device

Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device

Rating for this product: 4 May 20, 2011

easy to use on 8 to 11mm ropes...
Pleanty of friction on everything but the 7.7s.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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The best...

Metolius Belay Glove

Metolius Belay Glove

Rating for this product: 5 May 20, 2011

leather glove you will find for climbing. I use them on tough raps to stay in control and save my winter climbing gloves the wear. Mine are several years old and still going strong.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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A little small....

Petzl Ange S Wire Gate Carabiner

Petzl Ange S Wire Gate Carabiner

Rating for this product: 3 May 20, 2011

and a little hard to use. There are lighter biners that have bigger bodies. Gate is difficlt to use as well. I was hoping for more.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Cool piece of gear.

Black Diamond GridLock Screwgate Carabiner

Black Diamond GridLock Screwgate Carabiner

Rating for this product: 5 May 20, 2011

Few things I like that are gimicie...this is one. Never leave homw without one now. Seriously.

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes

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Arc'teryx Gamma AR Softshell Pant - Men's

May 20, 2011

No, the Gamma LT is cut a little tighter. Both are nice pants. I use the LT more these days.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Suunto T6C Strap Kit DO NOT USE

May 20, 2011

Yes, you can do it through Suunto custoier service on their web site,

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

Sold Out

Rab Fusion Softshell Pant - Men's

May 20, 2011

Large should work. Not longer. Arcteryx offers a long length on all their soft shells.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Nixon Newton Digital Watch - Men's

May 20, 2011

No, lots of better running specific watches. This isn't one of them.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Grivel G12 Crampon

May 20, 2011

They are not easily folded and a PIA to pack. Good crampon none the less.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Great all around chromoly crampon

Grivel G12  Crampon

Grivel G12 Crampon

Rating for this product: 5 May 20, 2011

They last forever and a day. More durtable in my experince than stainless. Good design for all around ice and good support on the first two sets of points. Great boot fit as well. Get the Grivel Tech if you want to do a lot of mixed. But these will work well there as well.

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes

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Great all around cxrampon...

Grivel Air Tech Crampons

Grivel Air Tech Crampons

Rating for this product: 4 May 20, 2011

Good on mixed and vertical ice. Some technical features not seen on other crampons. Good on the down hill with points set to support that. Moderate length on all points so they are very good on mixed. Grivels typically fit most boots better than some other brands. If you want to do a lot of mixed get the Tech....if all you do is ice get the G12.

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes

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Way better..

La Sportiva TC Pro Vibram XS Edge Climbing Shoe

La Sportiva TC Pro Vibram XS Edge Climbing Shoe

Rating for this product: 5 May 19, 2011

than expected. Old school shoes with a great fit, nice pointed toe for finger cracks and a soft toe flex for smearing. Perfect support for cracks and off width. I love them. Better than all the old school shoes we climbed in. Better fit them tight for face climbing. I keep hearing they stretch..although mine haven't yet. I expect them to...all in a good way. Primo all day shoe for the valley or trad cracks.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Oakley M Frame Hybrid S Sunglasses

May 19, 2011

It is the small lens in a M frame. Still pleanty of coverage even for my big head. From Oakley's web site. Lens width: 78mm
Lens height: 50mm
Bridge: 20mm

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Sterling PowerCord Cordelette - 6mm

May 19, 2011

Yes, it is stiff. Makes good rap tat. But nothing I want to sue on a regualr basis.

Helpful Votes: 1 Yes

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Petzl Mini Prusik Minding Pulley

May 19, 2011

Pulley doen'ts make the Prusik. It is just part of the Z system. How easy the pulley is to get into the z system is important.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Marmot ROM Softshell Jacket - Men's

May 19, 2011

Soft shells are idea for what you are looking for. Med. should work fine.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Great fit...

Giro Seam Helmet

Giro Seam Helmet

Rating for this product: 5 May 19, 2011

still feels like I should be on a hog with a CHiPs uniform every time I put it on but a greta fit on my fat head. Good vents and I like the visor. Just wish they would have offered a few more colors. It is a luxury helmet and worth the coin IMO.

Helpful Votes: 0 Yes

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Click to read all of Dane Burns's contributions... Be patient. It might take a while.