It has three male plugs, one at 2.5mm, another at 3.5mm, as well as one at 4.0 x 1.7 mm. It has a 5.5 x 2.5 mm female adapters with center pin positive.

The straps are rated to 500lb test.

As per the tech specs to the right, the Laptop Pocket Dimensions are 14.5 x 10.5 x 1.75in (confirmed with Pacsafe). You might want to look at Timbuk2 messenger bags, as they are designed fit most laptop sizes, even the 17". Just measure your laptop and check them against the Tech Specs (keep in mind that BC sometimes only includes the medium/regular measurement for laptop sizes, so just ask if you're unsure about a particular model).

Yep, the fabric itself (15D nylon) is water resistant/shedding with an additional DWR finish.

Not sure which model you have, so here are two links to the parts section for the two models Coleman lists:
http://www.coleman.com/coleman/parts/ProductImage2.asp?product_id=9941-765
http://www.coleman.com/coleman/parts/ProductImage2.asp?product_id=9941-768

If they do not have the part or parts you need, you might try contacting Coleman directly to see if other parts may be substituted. You can reach them at 1-800-835-3278.

As per the Dimensions section under 'Tech Specs" to the right on this page, the dimensions are: 13ft long x 11ft wide x 7.5ft tall, confirmed with Coleman's specifications.

The unit comes with a measuring gauge, which you use to measure the diameter of the ceramic filters. If at any point the measuring gauge slides over the ceramic filter media without being forced, the filter needs to be replaced. It is recommended you replace the filters after six months of continuous use, and since this is a high capacity system, you can expect up to 50,000 liters/13,000 gallons of pure water during that time.

The filters can be cleaned with the supplied cleaning pad as well, which you do once you notice a drop in flow rate. You can do this several times over the life of the filters.

Nope. The new MacBook is 12.78in x 8.94in, and the small laptop pocket is 11.6in x 8.9in, but will fit a laptop up to 12in. You would need the medium for the extra width over the 12in cutoff (12.78in).

A hip and shoulder happy 1.5in

The only difference between the two is the NH model uses Non Hazardous batteries so you don't need to dispose of them according to your local hazardous waste ordinances (they're a bit more friendly to the planet). There is no difference in operational specifications or useful life between the two types of batteries and likely once all the non-NH models are sold, the NH will become the only option.

GSI doesn't have a parts list listed on their site, but your best bet is to contact them directly to see what replacement parts they have available. They can be reached by phone at 1-800-704-4474 or via online form at http://www.gsioutdoors.com/contact.aspx

It comes with an iPod adapter, a car outlet adapter, and a multi-link adapter to hook more than one solar array together. It's essentially the same as the Brunton Solaris 6 (http://www.backcountry.com/store/BRU0143/Brunton-Solaris-Flexible-Personal-Solar-Panel.html) but with the addition of an iPod adapter. So long as whatever you have has a car adapter/charger, it would work.

If you're looking for something that will power multiple devices, including an iPod, without having to carry around a lot of specific car adapter/chargers, here is one suggestion (you will need a USB -> iPod adapter): http://www.backcountry.com/store/BRU0148/Brunton-Solarport-44.html

Thanks for the update on the method, Jon. You're right: regardless of old or new, it's super secure and easy.

It attaches to the tent and/or footprint's pole grommet/strap system (no clips, ties, or velcro tying it to the poles). You use the tent strap to secure the fly at each pole/ground connection point. You can guy it out for more stability and would need to use stakes on the vestibule.

Nope, it should not be used over a fire. Typically any non-coated aluminum or stainless steel pot or pan would do fine over a fire. This pot is designed to work most efficiently with the provided stove system, so the design limits its usability in other situations (e.g. the unique heat transfer 'FluxRing' assembly on the bottom of the pot). Most importantly, and the biggest reason the pot cannot be used over a fire, is the use of neoprene to insulate the pot. Neoprene starts to decompose at 446 degrees Fahrenheit, which is towards the lower end of a typical campfire, even a small one. If you were to use this pot over a wood fire, you take a significant risk in destroying the neoprene insulation.

kshowal is right about this model. The Nano I referred to (an older model) has airbeams. My apologies.

As per the description, you'll want the long ("L") model, which is 28.5in x 7in.

Yep, you can boil a pot of water, though it will take longer by 5 - 15 minutes depending on whether there is a breeze, the amount of water, the size of the pot, etc. You can use a frying pan or skillet on it as well if the handle is oven-safe to above 500F (cast iron works best).

To add what Andrew wrote, you will need what is called a "step down voltage converter" (from 240 to 110v AC), which you can find on the internet for $10 - $20USD. You can also use the supplied automobile charger, but that would take some time were that your only charging source.

You might want to look at the Dakine surf packs; they typically have a waterproof compartment or a removable wet suit bag that would keep your wet/stanky items separate from your fresh and clean stuff. Here are a few examples:
http://www.backcountry.com/store/DAK0787/DAKINE-Point-Pack-1800cu-in.html
http://www.backcountry.com/store/DAK1135/DAKINE-Patrol-Backpack-2200cu-in.html
And the Dakine site: http://www.dakine.com/surf/packs/surf-packs/

The best and most sensible option is the standard bladder/reservoir + tube. You can carry at least a 100oz bladder in the sleeve.

These are both 12 volt panels, but unless your pump operates at less than 5 watts (or 1.8 watts for the small version), these will not work. These panels, and almost all portable solar panels, are designed to recharge the various batteries found in electronics and trickle-charge larger batteries, like automotive or laptop. So, if you were to operate the pump from a battery, these panels would recharge that battery, assuming the battery could be recharged and sufficient time was allowed to charge between uses (obviously, the larger the battery, the longer the charge time).

Yep, and here's some info on how to do it:
http://www.w3source.com/2008/07/30/tip-connecting-a-stereo-bluetooth-headset-to-an-iphone/

Because the seams do not come sealed from the factory, which is unusual for a tent and likely why you've never had to do it before, you will need to do it if you expect any precipitation. If you don't, you can expect leakage/seepage inside the tent, making for an uncomfortable time. By having you do the sealing yourself, BD can keep costs lower, which is important when you're dealing with an already expensive tent (the fabric they use is pricey stuff).

Yes, and no. Yes, it's possible to fit in this tent, but not comfortably, unless you sleep diagonally or never stretch, don't mind rubbing the sides of the tent (top/bottom) with your bag, or sleep on your side. Your length is 76in, while the tent is only 7in longer, with most sleeping bags using up that extra 7in easily with the foot box and hood.

A good alternative would be something like the Big Agnes Copper Spur 2. It's a larger tent, weighs less, but does cost more. I'm 6'5" and it works great.

The movement of the down is limited by the "V" style baffle on the the non-zip side and the regular baffle on the zip side (also a "V" style), which prevents the down from dispersing from the top to either side of the bag. In other words, "feather flow" is minimal to nonexistent. On a side note, WM bags are right up there with Feathered Friends and custom work like Nunatak in terms of construction quality, usability, and durability. They've been able to successfully mitigate almost all the negatives associated with down bags without sacrificing any of the performance.

You will need to purchase the canister separately as it is not included with the purchase of the system.

It does not. The closest tide locations to Sandy Hook are Manasquan Inlet, Atlantic City, and Long Island Sound.

It has an 11 square foot triangular vestibule on the other side. The vestibule on the side you see in the picture is the larger, 18 square foot vestibule.

Most canister/stove setups are a universal fit, as the canisters and stoves must meet the Lindal self-sealing standard. Within this standard, however, are differences in manufacturing, which may be problematic in rare circumstances. Since there are only a few manufacturers of fuel canisters, staying within the size/type of the original Brunton canister (e.g. MSR, Primus, Coleman) would be fine since it's the same canister with just a different name.

Stuffed, it's 7.5 x 16in or about 707 cubic inches.

Typically, items on sale (like this) that have only one size are soon-to-be-discontinued, which means it's unlikely they will be stocking this product anytime in the near future. Your best bet is to use the chat function or give BC a call to see if they will continue to carry this item or if a new model is coming out.

A fly/pole pitch isn't possible without a custom footprint. Eureka makes 'Floor Saver' ground covers that are shaped to the general size of your tent but not specific to your tent. Additionally, the floor saver does not come with pole grommets. It is possible to manufacture your own custom footprint without too much trouble, and I'm fairly certain Eureka would provide you the technical measurements necessary to make one correctly.

Remove the back cover and replace with two SR936SW batteries. If you are not comfortable removing the back cover yourself, you can have a jeweler do it, as well as replace the batteries (they will usually do this for free at chain jewelry stores).

I don't think Yakima makes anything you are looking for, as far as a stop or clamp. You could try plastic hose clamps with a thin piece of rubber (e.g. a small section of tire tube) between the rack tube and the clamp to prevent slippage. Here's an example of the plastic hose clamp:

http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem.aspx?idProduct=FT1513&child=FT1514

If the UID is not affixed to the back of the unit, you'll likely need to call ACR and have them do a serial lookup for the unit's UID number. You can reach them at 1-800-4320-ACR or by online form at http://www.acrelectronics.com/form.htm

If it's working with your Bluetooth phone, then the sunglasses are not defective. In order for the ROKR to work with any other Bluetooth device, that device must be able to be paired to other Bluetooth devices. Pairing with other devices is the same as pairing with your phone, but any other device must be able to transmit Bluetooth (either 2.0 or 1.2). Check the instructions that came with your other Bluetooth devices for any specifics on the pairing requirements and whether you need a Bluetooth transmitter. More detailed info can be found here:
http://oakley.com/customer_service/manuals_drivers#orokrpro_tab

I'm going to assume you replaced the batteries with AG13 lithium batteries. If the light works without any issues, then it's likely to be a system error. If the light has any problems, you might remove the batteries again, check for any corrosion, rub down the battery connectors with rubbing alcohol (using a moist, not wet, Q-Tip) or change out the batteries with new to see if you can duplicate the problem. If it is a system error, your best option is to contact Brunton support at either support@brunton.com or 1-307-857-4700.

You only clean the outside of the filter, and only use clean water to do so. Soap is a cloggy substance and will be unforgiving to the carbon granules inside the element. The filter is designed to last between 1000L - 2000L (264 - 528 gallons) of use. If your usage is less than this range, you might want to clean other parts of the pump to see if that will give you any improved water flow:
http://media.cascadedesigns.com/pdf/msr_miniworks_ex_manual_en.pdf

The maximum pounds this pack can carry and remain comfortable is 70lbs (according to Gregory). It's possible to go higher than that, but then you're getting into, "I should have hired a pack animal" territory.

It's rated to 300lbs capacity: http://www.thuleracks.com/instructions/501550300,%20232.pdf

Nope. Apple products, and most modern electronics, have built-in overcharge protection.

Yep. You will need the footprint as well: http://www.backcountry.com/store/MHW1072/Mountain-Hardwear-Sprite-1-Footprint-PL.html

I assume you're talking about the kit that's available for the SS combo (hose + holder)? If so, it's not listed as an available product, an accessory, or even as a replaceable part (not a good sign). I would suggest contacting Coleman's customer support at 1-800-835-3278 to see if the kit is available for the Pro (functionally, it should work the same on either model).

It is, but you will need a wrench to do so. It is collapsible, however, and has a relatively small footprint. If you desire an even smaller footprint, you could remove the towing handle as well. You will not be able to safely operate the unit without the stand, but nothing in the instructions or safety alerts indicates you cannot operate the grill with the stand in a collapsed position.

Yes you can cook with the lid down. In fact, that's how it should be used (reduces large flare-ups, even cooking, less smoke).

Yes, but not here. See Jeff Gerhard's post/answer regarding the footprint further down on this page for links and more information.

It weighs in at a plump 7lbs 11oz.

I'm going to disagree with Angus, somewhat (again). This filter uses granulated activated carbon (GAC) as part of its filtration system. Activated charcoal is highly effective in removing chlorine from water and remains one of the principle means of doing so. Other ways you can remove chlorine: UV light, like a SteriPen, but it'll take anywhere from 22 - 45 minutes to do so, which is not feasible. You can also use chemicals, such as sodium bisulfate/metabisulfite, but that too is not feasible. In heavily chlorinated water, like that found in a swimming pool, you may have to filter the water more than once to remove the chlorine, but you will remove it assuming you're using a relatively new GAC cartridge.

The issue with GAC and filters like this, and why I don't fully disagree with Angus regarding his answer, is that they do not remove trihalomethanes, which are byproducts of chlorination and are considered toxic over time in amounts greater than 80ppb (according to the EPA). For emergency use, however, this product would likely be fine.

What I believe you're seeing and referring to in the picture is not the fuel intake but the check valve. If you look closely, you will see a part of the fuel uptake tube on the left (more visible on the Dragonfly pump pic). This flexible line rests on the bottom of the fuel bottle, regardless of MSR fuel bottle size, when aligned for stove use. Because of this setup, less than 1/2tsp of fuel remains unused, at least in my experience, and I am neither careful nor particularly conscientious of the fuel bottle's placement on the ground.

It will. Just choose the Dragonfly pump in 'Select options'.

Nope, as the blend of fuels differs between Coleman and Jetboil. Coleman offers their Butane/Propane fuel blends for three-season use, not four-seasons. This fuel canister is for four-season use since it contains a blend of propane and isobutane to maintain pressure in both cold temperatures and when fuel is low. Coleman's Powermax fuel is exclusive to Coleman and is made for four-season use.

Will this work on the Coleman F1? Absolutely, as will the MSR canisters and others. If you'll be using this in temperatures much below freezing, go with a liquid feed (i.e. Powermax fuel canisters).

The particles are most likely debris from the activated charcoal in the filter core. You should see some with the first quart - 1/2 gallon of water pumped through a new filter or if you use the filter infrequently enough and the charcoal granules dry out between uses then shift about as you hike/travel. You might also have some particles here and there through normal use. The activated charcoal is completely harmless and doesn't impact water quality.

This bivy would add warmth to your bag by not allowing as much heat to escape. As to any hard and fast rule for adjustment to your bag's original temp rating, the data doesn't exist and probably varies considerably depending on conditions inside (perspiration) and outside (humidity, precipitation, etc.) the bag. Some bivies will add warmth, some will not, and it depends on a lot of variables such as fabric, size, and ventilation).

A size "2" would be about perfect. You can use the chat function to find out when/if they expect the next shipment to come in since the "2" is not currently available.

The description here is correct, and the Conduit description on other sites is also likely correct. Here's why: there are two versions of the Lyell -15 bag. The older version is the Lyell -15 SL. "SL" signifies the use of the Conduit SL shell fabric. The new 2009 version does not have the Conduit SL shell fabric and uses a 30D/359T breathable nylon ripstop fabric with a DWR finish. Why Mountain Hardwear made the change from the SL to this shell fabric is unclear. Both are breathable, though, so it's unlikely you will wake up in a bed of frosty feathers.

This is not the same as the SS grill. Here are some differences (and they are fairly superficial between the two models in my opinion):
The SS has electronic ignition
The SS has a movable stainless steel grill & heat tents, the Pro's are enameled
The SS has a stainless steel hood
The SS weighs 3lbs more
They are both the same size, take the same propane cylinder (and the 20lb tank with hose), have the same BTU output, and have the same usage/control features.

Nope, it requires lung power.

That is true, though (as usual) it's a choose-your-own-adventure pitch as there are no instructions for this type of setup.

Yes and no. Yes, BA bags will zip together, regardless of shape or model, if they have the same size zipper and one bag has a left zipper and the other bag has a right zipper. No, this bag (70" zipper) will not zip together with the Horse Thief (60" zipper) since the zippers are not the same size.

You can go to http://www.bigagnes.com and look at the specs for the sleeping bag(s) you are considering. The description of each bag has the zipper size listed.

Double-wall since the fly is a separate piece (wall) to the main tent. Even though most of the tent is mesh, it's still considered a wall in this instance.

I'm going to disagree with Angus, somewhat. Because this filter uses a proprietary filter called the 'Structured Matrix' that contains activated charcoal, chlorine will be removed (activated charcoal is an excellent way to remove chlorine), though heavily chlorinated swimming pool water may require more than one trip through the filter.

This filter, or rather the charcoal in it, will not remove trihalomethanes, which are byproducts of chlorination and are considered toxic, though mostly in 'large' amounts (greater than 80ppb according to the EPA). For emergency uses, this product would likely be fine. Since you are going to promote this product in some fashion, you should contact General Ecology, Inc. for more information and detailed specifications. They can be reached at: 1-800-441-8166 or 01-610-363-7900.

The Truist has fewer pockets (three less)
The Truist is smaller by 20L
The Truist fits a longer torso by .5in
The truist fits a larger waste by 1.0in, up to 38" waste
The Ridgeline 65 has an adjustable torso, this does not
The Truist weighs 5oz. more than the Ridgeline 65

Yep, it's insulated.

Big Bite is just the marketing term more in line with what you do with it (take a big bite) than the actual size of the bite valve. In other words, it will work fine with the bite valve that came with your reservoir. And yes, the bite valve attaches directly to the hydrolock.

Using too much fuel or too little fuel (repeatedly) can cause the priming flame to burn less efficiently and cause soot. Using older white gas may also be a cause. Use just enough fuel to wet the burner, which is typically around 1/2 a teaspoon. White gas is probably the cleanest liquid fuel, and your stove should only accumulate soot after multiple uses. In other words it should remain relatively clean but will get dirty eventually. It's easy to clean, though.

If BC doesn't offer the color choice you want, your best bet is to use the chat function at the top of the page and see if a gear head can determine if/when they'll be getting that particular color. Looking at the Freestyle site, it doesn't look like they are offering the color pictured here. I might be color blind, though. Here's the Shark line so you can see for yourself: http://www.freestyleusa.com/products/shark.php

Yes. Both bags have a 70" zipper. Make sure you get a left zipper for one bag and a right zipper for the other.

No, but a laptop will fit into the main compartment.

Nuun U Hydration has a few more calories, fewer electrolytes and more vitamins than the regular Nuun tablets.

Yes, there are guy line loops on the fly.

Uploaded a pic of the fly. See it somewhere on this page, wherever the automatic electronic arts folks decided to place it.

I have to disagree. Any non-coated, food-grade stainless steel is fine to use over an open flame.

You have to have the footprint for that type of pitch.

The small extends to 70in/178cm
The large (not offered here) extends to 76in/193cm

For both the regular and long, choose a compressions sack of greater than 11 maximum (uncompressed) liters. Ounces are typically a measure of weight, not volume, but just for fun, the ounces for this bag are approximately 368 US liquid ounces.

It's difficult to determine the proper size without knowing the size and material of the clothing you wish to compress. The easiest way to determine this yourself is to take all the items you wish to compress and place them in a bag and slightly compress the bag (a plastic grocery bag works great for this) until you get a rough square. Take the measurements H x W x D and multiply them together to get the volume in cubic inches (or centimeters).

Next, figure out the closest cubic inches (or cm) of the compression sack. Since the sack is a cylinder, you can either use an online volume calculator or do it yourself (I've provided the cubic inches for these sacks below). To figure the volume of the bag, take the radius (typically 1/2 of the smaller measurement) multiply that number by itself then multiply that number by 3.141 and then multiply that by the height of the cylinder, which is typically the larger measurement. So, for the smallest sack here (XS), the dimensions are 6x14in, which = ((3*3)*3.141)*14 = 396 cubic inches.

So, after you know the cubic inches of your gear, match that to the cubic inches of the sack. Say your very slightly compressed gear takes up approx. 790 cubic inches, you could go with a small or a medium. I generally go a size larger (medium, in this instance) because I am too lazy to pre-compress my stuff into the sack.

XS = 396 in^3
S = 616 in^3
M = 904 in^3
L = 1272 in^3
XL = 1991 in^3

It does, and the Wallcreeper 650 represents a slow shift from the traditional sleeping bag + pad sleep system. In the push to create ultralight gear, functionality, comfort and in some cases, safety, were occasionally compromised. There are now at least two branches off the traditional sleep arrangement tree. One is the quilt system, which is closest to the Big Agnes bag-n-pad system (though for BA, it's still just a bag) but relies only on a quilt + attached pad (no sleeve), such as the GoLite Ultra. This is gaining in popularity as it is both highly efficient and ultralight without sacrificing function, warmth, or safety. The other branch is the multi-use bag, where the traditional bag is convertible into more than one use. This eliminates the need to take, in this instance, certain layer elements for cooler weather (when stationary).

As these two branches continue to gain popularity, expect even more innovative approaches and a further separation from the traditional bag system.

The only reason it would appear to take a lot to inflate or take longer to inflate would be the effect of altitude on the person using the mattress. There is no physical property of the mattress that would cause the mattress to use more air or take longer to inflate at higher altitudes.

The watch has a date function (top face) with a hand that turns with each new day. You will have to set the watch on months not ending with 31 days, but the process is simple. There is no function for determining the day (i.e. Saturday, Sunday, etc.), month or year. The bottom face is for the hour of the day (1 - 24).

To add to what Kyle wrote, here is the list of products with shipping restrictions: http://tinyurl.com/dmweoq

Your packed tent takes up about 770 cubic inches (thank you for providing the measurements), which is about 12 liters. You can go with a small, but getting it packed into the bag might be a little tough since you'll have to stuff it just to get it to fit. A better choice would be the medium, with a max liter size of 14. You could easily stuff the tent into the bag and then, in theory, compress it down to a minimum of 275 cubic inches (4.5 liters). You won't get that without a press or some significant applied weight, but you will get the tent seriously compressed, maybe by as much or more than 2/3 the original size.

Yep. It uses Polar's OwnCal to measure calorie expenditure during exercise (on display), total for the exercise session (in kilocalories) and saves the total kilocalories over multiple sessions using the software.

Yes, it's one wall of mesh (and ceiling apex), two mesh doors, one non-mesh wall. It appears to have more mesh than the pre-2009 version of The North Face Rock, which had mesh on the upper half x 3 sides only. The 2009 TNF Rock has more mesh overall, as the doors and door panels are all mesh in addition to the mesh wall.

They are definitely prone to jumping off the couch without proper training. Mine thought it would be fun to stay on the roof of the car once (but not for long) rather than follow me inside. BC doesn't sell replacement lids and CamelBak doesn't list lids as a purchasable part. Best bet is to call them and see what, if anything, they can do: 1-800-767-8725

Here, at least, are the replacement bite valves:
http://www.backcountry.com/store/CAM0182/CamelBak-Bite-Valve-and-Straws.html?RSC_ID=WR_CAM0182

You would likely be best served by the medium, which fits a girth of 27in - 32in (measured on the widest part of the ribs). Make sure it's snug and enjoy :)

A lot depends on how much weight is loaded into the pack, what the primary activities will be, and the amount of gear that will be necessary. People of average strength can usually haul around quite a bit more weight than they might realize, but of course the more weight means less comfort. Weight and size should not be an issue with this pack if the load is carefully planned.

This pack is probably a decent choice (again, it depends on the activities) and will fit a torso of 14in - 22in, which should be fine, though measure her torso to make sure. The detachable pack works as a carry-on when checking the main pack or for day trips where the full pack isn't needed. This pack is also a top loader with a front access pocket, which is convenient when needing to get to your gear (important). The pack is well padded, adjustable and fairly well made.

If you decide on this pack, make sure she tests it thoroughly. *Any* bad spots or sore areas that cannot be corrected through adjustment of the pack means the pack needs to go back (this is pretty rare). A little discomfort over a few hours will become a serious burden over several weeks. Good news is, BC has a great satisfaction/return policy, so it's basically a worry-free purchase.

Yes. Depending on where you are going, I wouldn't depend on the Buzz Off insect shield to protect you fully. Does it work? Pretty much, yes, but natural repellents (e.g. permethrin, the chemical in Buzz Off) may be less effective than synthetics, so having an additional or backup layer of protection is important. Then again, I am paranoid. I would take some repellent containing Saltidin (less toxic than DEET). Of course, you could always take DEET. Yes, it's nasty stuff (safe for nylon, not for plastics), but so are most tropical diseases spread by mosquitoes, sand flies, ticks, and other small things that think you are dinner.

I think you are looking for something exactly like this:
http://www.nalgene-outdoor.com/store/detail.aspx?ID=71

Approximately 19in x 13in x 7in

The MYO RXP is rated greater than 20 meters at all program levels for several hours (varies with program level, but greatest is 35 hours/23 meters). The MYO RXP doesn't need the flood to maintain this output since it uses ultrabright LEDs. The DUO LED 5 is rated 70 meters at 30 minutes, 22 meters at 10 hours, and 9 meters at 30 hours (4xAA batteries); 24 meters for 12 hours with NiMH batteries. The DUO LED 14 is rated at (average), 34 meters through 3.5 hours and 9 meters at 10 hours at maximum power and 26 meters through 10 hours at optimum power.

So, it all comes down to light/time. Since you need to light up 20 meters, use that as your constant and then go for the most time. The MYO RXP offers the most time for >20 meters at 35 hours (program 1) in addition to having several program levels, it also has a "boost" setting for up to 97 meters for short duration (but will reduce overall usable time significantly). It's the most versatile of the headlamps you mentioned. As for total battery life, the MYO RXP varies from 54 - 95 hours, DUO 5 = 65 hours for the 5 LEDs (AAx4 batteries) and 30 hours for the NiMH batteries, and the DUO 14 = 183.5 hours at maximum and 148 hours for optimum. Just looking at the numbers, the best battery performance is the DUO 14 followed by the MYO XRP.

Overall, the MYO RXP looks like the best option, with the DUO LED 5 being the worst. I've presented the data here since I don't know what you need as far as light/time or what you need for overall battery life.

Of course, if you want really hardcore lighting, the Petzl ULTRA would be the airport beacon on your head option. It illuminates up to 120 meters for 1.5 hours, 80 meters to 4.75 hours, and 40 meters for 16.75 hours. Battery life is short, however, with 2 hours, 5 hours, and 16 hours respectively.

On this pack you hang the ice axe(s) upside down so the head is below the bottom loop. You use the shaft to loop through the hole in the axe head from the bottom up (and from rear to front) and then use the bottom strap to tighten the axe and shaft together. That way your axe doesn't slip out of the loops.

The Neoair is not self-inflating like many other Therm-a-Rest pads. It is a true air mattress and the power of your lungs is all that is required. No special instructions needed, just fill it up until it's comfortable.

Yes and yes.
If you have decent mapping software, you can navigate lakes as you would land since the information (shoreline, size, etc.) is all contained in topo information (2M topos being the best solution). You can also create waypoints anywhere, so you could map fishing spots. This would be a workable solution, though not ideal for an avid water sports enthusiast.

For greater detail and information, Garmin's MapSource BlueCharts (lake/marine mapping) offers much more detailed information (contour lines, detailed shore information, Boat ramps, river/stream info). The U.S. Inland Lakes DVD covers the entire country for around $140: https://buy.garmin.com/shop/shop.do?pID=1404

Yes, it is machine washable, and is easy to wash. It does take time, though.

From Mountain Hardware's Care Instructions
Machine Wash:
Zip up all the zippers, attach all Velcro and turn the bag inside out. Wash in a front-loading machine with cold water on the gentle or delicate setting. We recommend that you use the minimum amount of cleaning agent [I never use more than 1/4 cup - less is more] and scrub the head and foot section before you wash the entire bag. Use at least two rinse cycles to get all the soap out of the garment [I just rewash the bag without soap].

* Down Bags: use a mild powder soap or special down soap (available at outdoor stores).
* Synthetic Bags: use a mild powder soap or special synthetic cleaning product.

Drying:
When moving your bag from the washer to the dryer, do so carefully by carrying it from the bottom. Tumble dry in a large commercial dryer on low heat. The dryer must be large enough for the bag to flop freely around. Drying will take several hours and your bag should be checked often to make sure it is not overheated.

* Down Bags: as the bag dries, look for clumps of wet down and gently shake the bag to redistribute the down. Sometimes the down in the draft tube will need some gentle massaging during this process.
* Synthetic Bags: as the bag dries, check for even distribution of fill material. Gently massage the bag if any bunching is detected.

No-Nos
* Do not use a top-loading washing machine (the agitator will destroy the baffles in the sleeping bag).
* Do not use liquid soap or detergent [never never never never]. Do not use strong soap or detergent.
* Do not use your home dryer (they have been known to melt holes in the fabric).
* Do not lift your bag from one end when wet (lift the entire bag all at once from underneath).
* Do not store in a stuff sack (use a larger storage sack which allows for air circulation).
* Do not dry in the sun (the UV will damage the nylon).

The US Department of Agriculture recommends constant refrigeration to avoid bacterial contamination and growth (salmonella). The USDA, in my opinion, is far more paranoid than is reasonable for the vast majority of consumers who have access to fresh or fairly fresh eggs (most grocery store eggs are fairly fresh). I regularly keep eggs out, unrefrigerated, for up to a week and have experienced no problems at all. Hard boiled, unshelled eggs will safely last about 1 - 2 days (probably longer) at room temperature. So, to answer your question: the USDA does not recommend unrefrigerated eggs, and my experience indicates eggs will last for at least a week unrefrigerated.

Yes, it can recharge your camera battery. If your camera did not come with a car adapter, you will need to purchase one, which usually comes with a replacement battery charger. A quick search on the net found one at Amazon for less than $5.00. Make sure the charger is specific to the camera model.

The EOS is very specific on it's input power, so using the USB cable could have disastrous results. Essentially, you need the Canon charger, but with a car adapter. The Canon charger prevents the battery from being overcharged.

The time necessary to charge the battery on a long, bright, sunny day is two hours minimum, since the battery charges to full in 110 minutes with the 110v AC power adapter. In real world vs. ideal, I would say it's closer to three hours with the 14W version and 4 - 5 hours with the 9W.

I'm going to assume since this is posted here, you need help finding poles for a Sierra Designs tent. If you bought the tent from Backcountry, use the chat function or give them a call to see what they can do. If that doesn't work out, Sierra Designs should be able to help you: http://www.sierradesigns.com/support.warranty.html

Your tent takes up about 846 cubic inches of packed size (as a 7" x 22" cylinder). Based on the cubic inch sizes of the compression sacks, I would say a medium would do nicely. You could probably do a small, but I'm lazy and would rather do just about anything else than spend time trying to stuff a tent (or anything, really) into a compression sack.

Actually, three male ends in total. Two male ends that fit into each end of your tube (or tube and bag) and then the male/female coupling for the quick-disconnect.