Thru-Hiking Favorites
by Patrick Kailey
Not everyone has the time, money, or motivation to hike the Pacific Crest, Continental Divide, or Appalachian trail in a season, but that’s no excuse not to sample a section of these thru-hike classics. The problem is, with a combined 7924 miles of trail, it can be hard to figure out where to start. That’s why we decided to bring you three of our favorite sections of the PCT, ACT, and CDT. Below you’ll find a brief overview of each hike, when to do it, what to bring, and how to get there. Now all you need some time off…
Pacific Crest Trail
End: Manning Park, British Columbia
Length: 2650 miles (4265km)
Best Time to Hike: Start April, end September
Weather/Climate: Desert, rain forest, high alpine, and everything in between
On its way from Mexico to California, the Pacific Crest Trail traverses some of the world’s most spectacular terrain. The trail passes through six of the seven eco-regions in North America, seven National Parks, 24 National Forests, and 34 Wilderness Areas. Traditionally hiked south to north, the trail itself is split into 5 distinct sections: Southern California, Central California, Northern California, Oregon, and Washington. While a handful of hardy souls thru-hike the trail each season, the vast majority of PCT travelers hike smaller sections of the trail. In fact, fewer people have thru-hiked the PCT than have climbed Mt. Everest.
Staff Favorite
Goat WildernessNorth Fork Campground to Walupt Lake, WA
Length: 27 miles (a long weekend)
Difficulty: Strenuous
Best Time: Summer, early fall
The Goat Wilderness section of the PCT was suggested by Emily Wallace, one of our customer-support Gearheads. Emily says the Goat is amazing: “There is snow year round up there and you get an amazing view of Rainier…and I’ve never heard of anyone going up there without seeing a mountain goat.”
This little known wilderness area provides some of the best views along the entire PCT. The peaks and rock formations of the Goat Rocks are remnants of an ancient volcano that once stood at over 12,000 feet, but two million years of wind and rain have eroded the volcano into jagged peaks ranging from eight to 12 thousand feet in elevation. The peaks are named for the plentiful mountain goats that call the range home. The trail from North Fork Campground to Walupt Lake is a 27-mile, 3-day trip through the heart of the wilderness area.
The Hike
After, leaving North Fork Campground, the trail slowly climbs up through conifer forest until meeting up with the PCT and heading south for another mile. A short side trip down to McCall Basin offers plenty of campsites. Set-up camp, enjoy the night sky, and hit the hay early. The second day consists twelve miles of grueling up and down hiking. This section is the windiest, most exposed section of the trip, but also the most spectacular. If the weather looks iffy, it’s best to wait a day. The trail here is not only strenuous with lots of up and down hiking at over 8,000 feet (the highest section of the PCT in Washington), but often skirts precipitous drop-offs. A good set of trekking poles and a bit of bravery are key. The payoff of course, is views of Mt. Rainier, Adams, St. Helens, and the ever-present Goat Mountains that will make you quit your day job and become an underpaid federal employee. The climb up to Elk Pass will get your lungs burning. If you feel up to it, continue up to the Packwood Glacier crossing, if not, continue on the trail to Snowgrass flat.
The third day starts with a steep climb up to Crispus Pass, then drops back down into lush alpine meadows, waterfalls, and more gorgeous views of the Cascades. Another ascent, this time up to Nannie Peak, takes you to the final, steep, 4.5 mile descent to Walupt Campground. You might be exhausted and your knees may hurt, but we guarantee you’ll remember this trip for a lifetime.
Getting There
To Walupt Lake: From Portland Oregon, head I-5 North for 75 miles, then take US-12 toward Yakima (Exit 68). After 61.6 miles, turn right onto a Forest Service Gravel Road (FS Road #21), follow this for 15.6 miles to a sharp left onto FS Road #2160. After another 4.4 miles, you’re there. Easy eh? Make sure you have a forest pass, else you might get a ticket.
To North Fork Trailhead: Get yourself back onto US-12 E, go about 30 miles to Tieton Road and take a slight right. After 0.2 miles, take a left onto Tieton Reservoir Road, continue 2.8 miles until the road becomes FS Road #1207, then another 5 miles till the road dead ends at North Fork Campground.
Miscellany
Most of this trail is above timberline, on scree or shale, so good boots, extra layers , and an adventurous spirit are key. Be sure to load up on water at McCall Basin, as there is no water for twelve miles on day two. A light ice ax may be useful to cross Packwood glacier (which is more of a snowfield than a crevassed, full scale glacier, but still potentially dangerous).
Resources
http://www.fs.fed.us/gpnf/recreation/wilderness/wilderness-goat-rocks.shtmlhttp://www.johann-sandra.com/goatrocks.htm
Ira Spring and Harvey Manning. 100 Hikes in Washington's South Cascades and Olympics. Seattle: The Mountaineers, 1998.
Continental Divide Trail
Start: Antelope Wells, New Mexico (Mexican border)End: Glacier National Park
Length: 3100 miles (5000km)
Best Time to Hike: Start March/early April, end in September
Weather/Climate: Forest, desert to high alpine
The most challenging of America’s long trails, the Continental Divide Trail crosses 31 hundred miles of rugged terrain along the crest of the Rockies. The fact that this trail follows the divide for nearly its entire length means that thunderstorms, brutal climbs and descents, and route-finding difficulties are all major obstacles for any would-be CDT hiker. However, for those willing to accept the challenge, the trail offers amazing vistas, gorgeous forests, and life-changing solitude.
Staff Favorite
Wind River Range, WYGreen River Lakes Trailhead to Big Sandy Lake Trailhead
Length: 67 miles (a long week)
Difficulty: Strenuous
Best Time: Summer
Josh Christianson, also one of our Gearheads, suggested the section of the CDT in Wyoming’s Wind River Range. The guy has good taste. Soaring granite peaks, crystal-clear alpine lakes, and high alpine meadows make this range every bit as spectacular as the Tetons—without the crowds or ski town haughtiness. The Wind Rivers not only boast the highest summit in Wyoming, 13,804 foot Gannett Peak, but are also home to over 24 named glaciers. The section between the Big Sandy Lake and Green River Lakes trailheads is so idyllic, you’ll think you died and went to backpacker heaven.
The Hike
Starting from the north at Green River Lakes trailhead, the trail immediately crosses the deep, cool waters of Green River, then winds its way past Green River Lakes and up into the foothills of the mountains. The Devil’s Toweresque and aptly named Square Top Mountain loom large in the distance, giving many hikers mental images of Close Encounters of The Third Kind. Some Triple Crown thru-hikers (hikers that have thru-hiked the PCT, CDT, and AT) have described this trip as the most spectacular section on any of the three trails. On the third night, don’t miss the opportunity to camp along the shores of Summit and Island Lake. Looking at the reflections of the mountains off the glassy water of these two high alpine gems, it’s hard to tell where water ends and the mountains begin. Traveling further, the rugged nature of the Wind’s 11- to 13-thousand foot peaks continues to crescendo, until you reach the Cirque of Towers. The Continental Divide wraps around this natural rock amphitheater for almost 270 degrees before heading up north into Canada. While not the highest, the central Pingora tower is perhaps the most eye-catching. Rock climbing routes range from 5.2 to 5.11, so next time you make a trip to the Wind Rivers, bring your trad rack. From here the trail eases in difficulty somewhat as it descends 12 miles to Big Sandy Lake and the southern trail head.
The Beta
To Green River Lakes trailhead: From Pinedale, get on US 191 and head north 6 miles and turn onto WY352. From here, put on a good CD and drive 46 miles to the trail head.
Leave a shuttle at Big Sandy trailhead, or be prepared to hitch-hike. To get there from Boulder, follow WY 353 for 18.5 miles. Turn left; go 9 miles. Turn left again, drive 7 miles, and turn left again. When the trail forks, go right, this will take you to the Trailhead.
Miscellany
This is a serious trip involving lots of miles above timberline in one the nation’s most remote mountain ranges. Bring a warm sleeping bag, rain gear, insulating layers, and be prepared to stay out later than you planned. Route finding can be a challenge. Some of the trails and junctions are unmarked, so pay attention and bring a map, compass, and GPS.
Resources
http://www.pinedaleonline.com/destinations/windrivermountains/http://chompadventures.com
Appalachian Trail
End: Mount Katahdin, Maine
Length: 2174 miles (3498km)
Best Time to Hike: Start early March/April, end September
Weather/Climate: Forest, alpine
The granddaddy of the long trails, the Appalachian Trail’s 2174.6 miles help preserve the sanity of between three to four million hikers each year—even if they only take a brief stroll on the trail. Only a fraction of those trail users attempt to walk the entire trail. In fact, of the 200 hikers who attempt the entire journey from Springer Mountain, Georgia to Mt. Katahdin, Maine each year, only around 20% complete the trek. Probably the most famous AT thru-hiker of all time was Emma Gatewood, better known as "Grandma Gatewood". This mother of 11 children and grandmother of 23 completed the AT three times, the last time when she was 76. Which begs the question, If a grandmother can do it, why can’t you?
Staff Favorite
Mt. Katahdin
Length 10.4 mile out-and-back dayhike
Difficulty: Strenuous
Best time: Spring to fall
The AT’s northern terminus, Mt. Katahdin rises out of the Maine woods like something…well, like something you might see on the PCT or CDT. Simply put, the mountain is the most spectacular precipice the AT has to offer. The trail not only has my stamp of approval, but Henry David Thoreau’s, as well. Deciding he’d had enough of chilling out by the pond, Thoreau chronicled his 1846 summit attempt in his famous essay The Maine Woods. Thoreau never summited due to fog—he got lost and managed to sprain his ankle falling out of a tree. Despite all this, his impression of Katahdin inspired him to call for “national preserves, where no villages need be destroyed, in which the bear and panther, and some even of the hunter race, may still exist, and not be civilized off the face of the earth.”
The Hike
The first mile of this history-steeped trail meanders up through spruce-fir forest and boulders to Katahdin Stream Falls, a 50-foot thundering wall of water. Here, the trail picks up gradient, climbing over 1700 feet in the next mile and a half. After three miles of steady hiking, the AT breaks the tree line and emerges into alpine terrain. The trail then follows the Hunt Spur towards the summit. A series of iron rungs help hikers scale small cliffs on the way to Katharine’s “table land”. Here, the steep, rocky ridge suddenly gives way to a nearly flat alpine meadow studded with wildflowers. Follow the trail up to Thoreau’s spring, the famous writer’s high point where he got lost in the fog. One last uphill push brings you to the main summit, 5,267 foot Baxter Peak. At the top, you’ll see a 13-foot sign and massive cairn marking the AT’s northern terminus. Enjoy your accomplishment, then take a moment to wonder what it would feel like to reach this landmark after 2174.6 miles on the trail, like a handful of thru-hikers do each year.
Beta
Take I-95 exit 56, follow ME 157 west to Millinocket, then signs to Baxter State Park. Just beyond the Togue Pond gatehouse, take the left fork of the gravel Tote Road and drive 8 miles to Katahdin Stream Campground and the Hunt/AT trailhead.
Miscellany
Don’t let Katahdin’s 5,267 foot elevation fool you—this mountain deserves respect. Much of the hike is above timberline, and unpleasant weather at the trail head can be life threatening near the summit. Insulating layers, wind protection, plenty of water, and common sense are essential to complete this strenuous hike. Also, get to the trailhead early in the morning (before 8:00), the rangers close the lot when it gets too full.
Resources
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Katahdinhttp://www.baxterstateparkauthority.com/index.html
http://www.naturalbornhikers.com/Katahdin/MountKatahdin.htm
Condon, Scherer, Weegar and Micheal Kodas .Exploring the Appalachian Trail: Hikes in Northern New England. Mechanicsburg, PA: Stackpole,1999.
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