Marker Baron Ski Bindings - 2008

Yes they do, Backcountry doesn't sell it, it can be seen here http://www.marker.net/en/product-range/Touring-Crampon

I'm pretty sure that the holes line up, but I have never compared them to try. Personally I would take it to a certified shop, just to be sure that they will not rip off.

Yes, alpine boots should work just fine. But you will suffer in them on the way up, as they are heavier and have no walk mode.

You pretty much could, yeah. The weight set is just for added safety, as most heavier skiers need to run a stronger DIN. But if that isn't your case, there should be no issues.

Most likely, but you can be sure by looking on the boot, molded into the plastic somewhere near the toe or heel area, for the sole length. If the boot says less than 320mm, the Small Baron will fit your boots.

I currently have Marker Griffons on my Line Motherships and i want to put Barons on them. Do the srews line up in the Same holes? and would it be ok to do this?

no side to side play, they are just like alpine bindings when locked down. i have 103mm waist skis and there is just enough room for the standard brakes, go with the wider brakes on anything wider than about a 105 waist ski.

Nope, the Baron and Duke aren't tele bindings, and you can't use NTN boots (or any kind of tele boots) in them.-----------------The only AT bindings the NTN boots will fit in are Dynafits.Tweak: The Crispi NTN boots work fine and next years Garmont boots are expected to work.

you can't use this binding with the IPT piston system

I am 185 and ski very aggressively and the Barons I have (on my 187 Liberty Helix) are rock solid. I don't need the DIN of the Dukes and appreciate the lighter weight and cost of the Barons.

Never count on a binding to stiffen a ski, and even so, the Mantra needs very little stiffening.If you are /never/ going to tour, get the Griffon, it's got less things to go wrong, and weighs less. All AT bindings will break before their equivalent Alpine only counterparts, it is the nature of having more components. Or you could go with a Baron, and pick up some skins...

If I am not mistaken the Salomon size 9 boots have a 295mm length. If I am right you can get away with the small binding. I recommend that you check your boots first though, just to be on the safe side.

The small weighs a little bit less, but I would go for the large just to have a little extra play with the fit.

This binding is for the person with the one ski quiver i use it for mostly park, pipe, and freeride. If you want a binding for touring only go with the fritschi it is much lighter and you will appreciate that being a smaller person on a long tour.

If you run a DIN bigger than 10, I suggest going with the Dukes.

These bindings are not reccomended for any ski with a waist under 76mm.

I wouldn't worry about it, you can remount up to three times with little to no concern. Especially with the barons which have one of the widest mounting footprints on the market, so the screws are more than likely going to be further apart, especially in the toe. You can also mount them further forward if you want to get flippy spinny, since they shift back 3cm when put in tour mode, or if you are going to be using them strictly as a touring ski you can mount them further back for better climbing ability. If you do decide to get barons, i would love to take the old bindings off your hands, for real.

the screw at the very back of the heel piece adjusts forward pressure. with a boot clicked in, the top of the screw should be flush with the inset rectangle around it. with the binding in front of you this should be easy to see.

No, they should work great, these bindings feel just like a downhill binding.

Yup.

Yes, there is.

fat ass skis

that depends on your boot size. if you boots length in mm (normally found on the heel) is between 265 and 320 then go with the small (it looks like all they have left is smalls, so you better hope you don't have a boot lager than a 28.5)

Dude these will be plenty good enough for your plans. You may even want to cut weight by going with the Black Diamond Fritschi Diamir Freeride Plus bindings if you'll be in the backcountry more often than the front side. They cost a bit more, but you'll lose a pound of weight. Check 'em out:http://www.backcountry.com/store/BLD0926/Black-Diamond-Fritschi-Diamir-Freeride-Plus-Binding.htmlSick bike pic by the way. You sure you won't be hucking?

Short answer is no. Buy the Black Diamond O2. If you need more explanation ask again.

Yes, but new holes will need to be drilled.> Actually, I checked and the answer is no. There is not enough space left from the predrilled inserts to drill new ones.

Yes. The binding is wide and is better designed for today's wider backcountry skis. I have my Baron's strapped to Atomic Sugar Daddies 183 and they perform better than a fixed heal binding. Go for it!

no you cannot, the XBS is a binding system, that only works with the Nordice(Marker) binding it came with. you would need another "flat" ski without a binding system.

You could go either way. if you are very hard on gear or plan on this being your main(or only) setup go Dukes. A din of 12 is pretty good, most ppl can get away with the barons but I like the security in having a bombproof setup that I am SURE will hold up.If you are going to be hucking 20+ footers, then go with the Dukes. Keep in mind they are a bit heavier and you will be penalized with that. I am 5'10" 170 and I ride the Barons... I charge pretty darn hard, but am not dropping anything bigger than a 10 and footer and I like to be able to keep the legs fresh for multiple laps. You would think the extra weight wont matter much, but it does after 4 to 6 hours of charging and skinning. It also depends on your boot set up... if you have lighter AT boots then go for the Dukes. If you have a heavier AT boot then I think you can get away with the Barons.

DUKE just to be safe

You can wear normal alpine boots. The only thing different about AT boots is they're lighter and thus better for hiking.

That's a bit misleading, since the number of AT models with interchangeable alpine soles can be counted on the toes of one foot. The Jester is set for an ALPINE DIN toe and has NO adjustment - an AT boot toe is normally 7mm higher. If you are using any AT boot without interchangeable soles you will need the Duke or Baron.

If you are mostly resort why get an AT binding. Minumum ski width is 78 for these things. 200 lbs Id say get the duke. But since you are mostly resort save a hundred and get the barons

Depends what type of skier you are. The Duke is a beefy binding for larger skiers who need to DIN above 12. I would look at your current bindings to see where there at. Most skiers I know prefer the baron because they are lighter then the duke. Also Large vs. Small is going to depend on your shoe size and what boots your using. AT boots usually run a little smaller in their length then alpine boots. Your boot length is usually located on the side of your boots and it will be measured in mm.

the main difference between the two is the din setting, baron goes up to twelve and is a lil lighter, while the duke goes up to 16. which din setting do you think you need?

yea definately. its only 1mm, .5 on either side. no problem, use the 110 brake for you katanas on either the duke or barron

Very easy, just need a screwdriver. And don't screw up your forward pressure.

Weight my man, weight. Why lug around the extra weight if you're set with the small. The ONLY consideration you may think about is the ability to re-sell the set up with the smaller binding size but if you're not planning on selling the set up later then go for the small!Powstash is correct, but there actually a lot of places sold out of the smalls first last year. Also, a smaller footprint has a theoretically stronger resistance to screw pull-out. It's unlikely that this will matter, but it will also let the ski flex more naturally.

If you punish your gear go for the duke. If you don't the baron should be fine. The duke has a few pieces that are magnesium as opposed to a plastic composite. It's not a matter of DIN it's a matter of durability.

This is not true. This belief is a holdover from the 'old days' of binding technology. Modern bindings are tested throughout their range have have the same degree of accuracy and consistency wherever they are set - they must in order to achieve the DIN standard. The internal 'stops' on the adjustment range in a binding ensure that the springs have either sufficient tension in them (if set to the low end) or aren't over compressed (at the high end) to perform correctly. If the maximum DIN setting you ski at is 12, there is absolutely no reason to buy a binding with higher limits.To actually answer alex's question. The duke is more durable. If you charge really really hard the duke is beefier. The duke and the baron are constructed differently--so arguments can be made for buying the binding that DINs higher.

This binding definitely stiffens the ski. It also enables the gripping of hard pack. I think these binders are a little burlier than the fritschi (they also weight more).