Metolius Ultralight Power Cam's

These have slowly become my cams of choice. I love that they don't weigh much and I love even more that when they're placed properly you could drop a truck on them. They're total confidence builders and let you spend more time climbing and less time worrying. The other review referring to a non-constant cam angle isn't correct. These have a constant cam angle that is slightly smaller than other manufacturers', means that you sacrifice a little range for more bite.

The single axle, narrow cam angle and the powerful design makes these cams stronger, and more powerful than anything else around. I recently took several 20+ foot whippers on these and had no problem with slippage or retrieving them afterward. I prefer to use the range finder as a guide. I like to place them on the green-yellow line. That way you can avoid the lobes getting stuck and as I have proven, you still have plenty of power!

light, impeccably made, excellent workmanship/strength EXCEPT- as gear becomes more specialized, so must the user. Since these have a changing cam angle, they tend to be awful in flared pockets at the green/smallest end of the retraction zone, and as they wear in the green zone, become closer to a zero degree cam angle, which is useless. I use the orange zone to near red zone the most... and on the midrange sizes, they retract until the cam tips touch the opposite crack walls, and get stuck. Yuck.

These cams don't seem to place as easily as Black Diamond C4s. The C4s are longer and can reach further into a crack which can allow for more placement options. They are adequate cams but I find them a little too short.

Yes, they're cams. Yes, they work, and yes, I trust them with my life. Now, that said, if you haven't learned how to place cams, there aren't any cams in the world that will save your hyde. So, know your stuff -- and when you get ready to buy cams......hook a bunch of these to your gear loops. Peace.