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In designing the Bonesaw, G3 got together with guides and avalanche professionals to see which features were useful and which ones were useless. After months of design and testing with skiers who spend 100 days in the backcountry each year, they've got it dialed. The G3 Bonesaw has become one of the most versatile snow saws available. This burly saw has offset teeth that can cut snow, ice, and even wood. It comes with a durable sheath for easy carrying. The best part is that with two included straps, you can attach this saw to just about anything. Strap it onto your ski pole, avie probe, shovel handle, long stick, or anything else that's at hand to increase your reach for cutting test pits and Rutschblocks. For easy snow safety research there are measurements on the blade aid in making consistent cuts for tests and there are three different grids for determining snow crystal size.
Bottom Line: Everything you could ever want in a snow saw.
I don't own this saw, but the question intrigued me so I asked a friend who is into geology and archeology, "Which is harder, ice, bone or wood?" (You figure if bone is softer than either of those, the saw will cut bone, right?) Her answer was "It depends. Ice, which is actually a mineral, probably has a Mohs scale hardness of about 3 or 4, which means it can be scratched by say a copper coin. (I haven't tried this, but I can't imagine that a penny can't scratch ice.) But it does depend on the temperature. At a colder temperature, ice would be harder.
But as for the organic things .... Oak is much harder than pine, for example, and there may actually be types of wood that can't be scratched with a penny, but pine probably can be. And the hardness of a bone also varies, depending on which bone, from what animal, the age of the animal, the diet of the animal, and so on...not really an answer, I know." Maybe there's someone out there who owns this product who has tried to cut bones with it.
It works reasonably well. The straps are the stiff rubber backwards-thumb-buckle type straps that you often find at ski mountaineering shops for strapping your skis together. Usually they strap tight enough around and most things aren't completely smooth (even probes have a bit of a bump at the end) to keep it from sliding off. The curved handle works well to help staying on too. But as with any saw-attachment, it can be sort of bulky (i.e. difficult if not impossible to push through the already-sawed slot) and hard to saw with from a pole-length away.