Black Diamond ATC Guide

As a climber and guide, there are always one of these on my harness...but a word of caution. PLEASE make sure you know how to use it properly for belaying off of the anchor! Too many times I have seen people set these up incorrectly. Take the time and learn how to use this device properly. This goes for lowering off the anchor as well. Take your time and be safe!

I love this device. Makes raps down thin, icy ropes a lot less sketchy . The ability to clip directly into the anchor and belay two ropes with a self-locking system is amazing for alpine and multi-pitch climbing. A little on the heavy side but worth every ounce. I don't really mind this but this device is quite slow while rapping on thick (10mm+) cords.

This is a wonderful belay device. It provides friction when rappelling or belaying on skinny ropes, yet it is not too narrow so that you have to work too hard when using it in guide mode (thus keeping my tendinitis at bay). However, I am waiting for BD to come out with a device just like this for super skinny ropes. For example, today, I was rapelling into a ski line in Chamonix, and would have appreciated a "mini" Guide ATC to use with my 6mm line.

I had the reverso before getting this. After having a bad experience with the reverso while rappelling on a skinny rope I got this one. Has all the same features but work on skinny ropes as well.

I was a hold out using the older ATC for a long time. Then I decided to bite the bullet and step up to the ATC Guide. I have never looked back. It feeds rope great, it belays from above great, it rapps great, I love this and it is now the device i reach for, even when everything else (ATC, Toucan, Gri Gri, figure 8) is availble.

-It feeds the rope well.
-It built stout, a bit heavy for the size but its solid
-it belays a second from a upper anchor very well,
-its a bit grabby while lowering someone but it grabs a fall very well.
-The little hole for releasing a un-climbable second could be better
designed.
-The notched side is a bit much for rappeling it tend to grab the rop, I turn it around to smooth out the decent,
this is one of the most versitle and usefull devices out there I really glad I got one.

I bought this belay simply because of it's versatility compared with the the ATC belays. I've used this belay once and I love it! The stopping power when rappin' down with both halves of the rope going thru is just ridiculous.

This ATC is the bomb of ATCs. It's light, small enough, feels durable and safe. All in one.

I love my ATC and this is basically a souped up ATC. For my typical weekend cragging, I still use my old ATC...it does the trick and is actually considerably lighter. But, I can't wait to fire this baby up on some multi-pitches. If you know you'll never progress past sportclimbing or top-roping, I would recommend going with the lighter, old-fashioned ATC.

After using this a fair amount, I wanted to add that the "v" notches do make a big difference with new, stiff, slippery, or small-diameter ropes. While the ATC Guide may not be for everyone, I would recommend looking the ATC Guide or the ATC-XP as a primary belay device. The extra friction does inspire a little more confidence than the old ATC in certain conditions.

I love this piece. The holding power is great and smooth feeding to top it off. I also love the "guide mode" it works well.

I own and/or have used almost every belay/repel device available. Everything from 8s, stich-plates, Kong Gi Gi, Grigris, Cinches, Jaws, B52s, almost every incarnation of ATCs and Reversos, etc. If I was forced to pick one device to use for the rest of my life, this would be it. It doesn't do EVERYTHING but it does do many things better than any other device I've seen. However, Petzl's new Reverso 3 may change my opinion. It is almost an identical device with a few small changes. Time will tell.

Nice design, works just like the reverso3 but way beefier and the eye that the anchor beiner goes through is 90* to the reverso3. Wich is nice depending how your anchor is set up. If your going light weight than the reverse is nice. the atc guide super smooth with a 10.5 mm rope, belaying, raping, and topping a second. It a well thought out design. I recommend this any time.

Simple, reliable, and versatile -- love this device! Especially good for leading trad...

Definitely my favorite device with which to belay. The ATC-XP is good, but the teeth are simply too much for the skinny people I usually belay (plus switching it around just seems a little strange to me), but the ATC guide has just enough bite to catch and lower nicely. In addition, the ability to guide people with it in a top-belay format adds a lot to this. I love the auto-locking feature with an additional biner. Awesome stuff from BD as usual... and I even bought my g/f one... hence I trust her just a bit more now on big whippers.

So I have to admit, I'm waiting to see how this levels out to the reverso. It might be a tough contest. Should be much better than old school ATC that I had and have abused to the max.

Used it for single belays on The Subway in Zions.
Ideal for ropes below 10.5 mm
Works great in all 3 positions: Reg. friction for repelling, high friction for belay, and hanging auto block belay.

This is all you need for top & bottom belaying

this is a glorious belay device.

I got this one for belaying my partner when they are stuck resting on a difficult route in the gym. This way I don't have to hold the rope as tight with my basic Black Diamond belay / rapelle device.

I recently used this device on a week long climbing trip in North Carolina. I brought along my regular ATC just in case I wasn't happy with how the Guide performed, but I never even used the regular ATC because I liked the Guide just as much. I haven't used it in "guide mode," but in normal mode I did not notice any difference between the regular ATC and the Guide when using a 10.3mm diameter single rope and a pair of 9mm double ropes. I do not agree with the reviews/concerns from other users that the Guide was difficult to use with thicker ropes as I did not see any difference. To me the Guide is an obvious belay device choice since it works just as good as a regular ATC and can be used in the "guide mode," which I am eager to try out on my next climbing trip.

I’ve had a chance to use this device now on a few outings and with a few different diameter ropes. Here's what I've found. The XP-Guide is narrower than the ATC-XP, and therefore will not work as well with a 10.5mm rope or higher. A 10.5mm rope is a bit thick for the device. Belaying is okay with a 10.5, but laborious and can sometimes grab when you don't want it to, especially when trying to pay out a lot of slack quickly to the leader. In auto-locking mode to bring up the second a 10.5 takes a lot of effort to get through the device, and if your second is really climbing fast it's difficult to keep up.
However, because the Guide is a little narrower than the XP, it grabs skinnier ropes better. I think the sweet spot for the Guide exists in between 9.7mm and 10.3mm. With these diameters it works like a dream. Also, the enigmatic little hole for lowering the second does make lowering from the anchor a little easier, but for those who've used a Reverso, you can use the second locker the rope travels around to lower just as well. The additional hole does provide a little more leverage, so it is possible with the redirect to just lower your second by pulling on the sling with your hand if the climber is light, or can take a little weight off the rope by walking down the route or down climbing. (See the BD technical notice for lowering procedure) With a heavier climber, when you are using your body weight to lower, it takes a little getting used to. A little jerky at first and less sensitive than lowering with your hands "belay" style, but no worse than the Reverso. All in all, a good device.

This is a nice device, although I have to agree with caleb that it's really ideal for ropes below 10.5 mm (great for twins or doubles). With beefier or stiffer ropes, it's really hard to dole out lot of rope quickly to a leader as he/she tries to clip gear for instance. For skinny ropes, it's great. For belaying directly off gear in guide mode it works very nicely as well. I tied a short loop of cord through the small hole and that way I can easily clip a 'biner and sling to it to give me the extra leverage to unlock the device to lower the second.

The XTC Guide is a great device. I used it 10 times already. I didn't get to use it in guide mode. But, it was great to rappel with and super quick when I caught my climbing partner falling from about 75ft. The high friction mode truly is! I can't wait to get a skinnier rope to try it with, as my 10.5 is getting ready for retirement.

I like this device better than the XP because it seems to hold my little (10.2mm) rope better than the XP, and so far it feels a bit easier on my rope. Add to that the increased functionality for guiding, etc. and you have one awesome belay device!

just as easy to use as the atc-xp, i got the guide for the ability to use the self-locking set up in the future.

Excellent belay device. Consider this: even if not used for belaying two, one can use the dedicated loop to directly attach the device to a fixed anchor, so in case of a fall, you will not be dragged.... The ATC XP can't do this; however the Petzl Reverso is also capable of such functionality

Very good design and works well on skinnier ropes. Only thing that I would change is the rough finish. They should anodize it like the regular ATC.

Black Diamond ATC Guide Used this at the gym the other night and I really enjoy the breaking system. It is a good straight forward piece of gear. BD does it best. The loop is good for top belays, and multi pitch climbs.

Use this all the time with my 10.5mm rope and friends 9.3mm rope. No problems at all.

This device is awesome it has awesome friction when on belay and rapell and even alows you to put it in guide mode and belay 2 people from above. It is definatly way more versatile than a grigri but still does not have the auto lock capabilities.

There are lots of these types of devices out there and Black Diamond has come out with arguably the best one. It's super smooth, versatile and just works great. I really like it.

This is far and away the best ATC style belay device ever devised. easy to use and functional beyond belief. I could recommend it higher, especially if you're belaying from above.

The ATC Guide is a great belay device for bringing up the second on your multi pitch routes and is awesome when rappelling. However, I did find it difficult to use with a rope bigger than 10mm, especially when using it as a regular belay.

I love this ATC, it works great in all 3 positions: reg. friction for repelling, high friction for belay, and hanging auto block belay. I love the auto block!! It makes rope management SO much easier!! This is a Killer ATC!!

Great for belaying heavy climbers. Worked great, no hassles. Rappels smoothly.

I have been using the Petzl Reverso for a few years, and I can honestly say that I like the ATC Guide better. The Black Diamond device locks more securely and releases easier thanks to it's specific release point. I wish you could get a carabiner through this hole, but I suppose it's smaller to keep people from accidentally setting it up wrong. The ATC Guide is a little heavier then the Reverso, but it's worth the trade off. You'll never see me on a multi-pitch route without this thing.