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Black Diamond ATC-XP
Item #BLD0526 | 13 in Stock
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Black Diamond ATC-XP
The Black Diamond ATC-XP is a true variable-friction belay and rappel device with wicked holding power. With the ATC-XP, a climber can control how much friction they want while belaying or rapping, which in turn means greater control with multiple rope diameters. Ice climbing with an 8.1mm rope? Use the ATC-XP in high friction mode, pulling the rope over its contoured teeth. Rappelling with a fuzzy 11mm down a granite slab? Use the device in regular friction mode. An extended central web keeps 'biners and ropes properly oriented and reduces kinking. This Black Diamond belay device is such a favorite among climbers that it won the Climbing Magazine Editor's Choice Award. *Assorted colors.
Bottom Line: Black Diamond has made an essential piece of climbing gear essentially better.
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what is this thing compared to a grigri? besides the el cheapo price tag. Really love the grigri but have never tried this little dude.
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a grigri automatically locks you out. you need to physically pull back the little swingarm to allow the climber slack. this device allows you to do that with arm placement. no moving parts in it, just the rope through it.
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By: drevil892055793 (6) May 7, 2008
As a novice climber, I love the friction on this rope. I seem to always be belaying someone heavier than me, and this gives me the control I need to feel confident doing so.
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By: Anonymous (1) January 8, 2008
This biner has great friction locks. You can repel someone twice your weight almost without holding the rope down! Allows great control over the rope. Highly recommended!
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By: TVOCAL (12) December 10, 2007
I LOVE THIS BELAY. ITS A LITTLE MORE DURABLE THEN YOUR BASIC BELAY. LIGHTWEIGHT, EASY TO USE
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By: NvHiker (8) December 9, 2007
This is my first belaying device. I read other reviews on this device and it works just as they say. Works excellent for me and if I loose it, I will buy it again. I like the control it gives and I haven't experienced rope problems when using it. If you haven't got one, buy it!
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By: 4labs (3) November 19, 2007
Easy to use, holds well, no problems
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By: Panzer (3) June 17, 2007
Have used this only once (I just received it recently) and it works great. The 'teeth' that are sculpted into the steel work great in two settings - high friction and standard - both hold the weight of the climber without putting too much strain on the belayer.
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By: BPW (4) May 30, 2007
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By: JohnGchrist (325) December 17, 2006
I use an atc xp and would recommend upgrading to a Guide xp It's the same belay device just with more options one day you might want the auto lock feature. The teeth are great for double ropes that are smaller in size.
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By: Mountain Girl111 (82) December 14, 2006
This ATC is still a pretty simple design, but in may ways it's better. It catches the rope better making it a little easier on your hand.
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By: andisandi (180) December 8, 2006
I am a beginner climber and this is a great belay device. It's easy to use and well made. All of my friends have this one too. Gotta have it!
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By: TooMuchTrad (8) November 30, 2006
I have used a few different belay devices, but I enjoy this one the most. It has low friction until you put it in the break position and requires minimal tension to remain in the break position. My partner has taken some hefty whippers and this stops any extra slack being fed to him.
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By: Dave A (2) September 2, 2006
This ATC is like most other ATC's you'll find on the market. The added friction comes in handy for abseiling, and belaying otherwise like all other ATC's, it does what it's suppose to do. If it didn't, I wouldn't be writing this right now.
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By: William Blake (27) August 17, 2006
Every climber should own this piece of gear. You won’t need another belay or rappel device with this on your side.
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By: Phunk (28) May 28, 2006
I use the toothy side for lead belaying climbers heavier than I am, or for rappelling on skinnier ropes.
Got a fatter rope, or a skinnier climber to belay, go for the toothless side. Love it!
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By: morning star (7) April 5, 2006
This is such a great improvement from the original ATC. The teeth and the v-shaped rim really help take pressure from your arms, hands, and minds. It's great for rappelling and belaying, and it is very light and simple, and also inexpensive.
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By: Michaela (2) March 17, 2006
The XP is a great device, the only problem that I have had is there being too much friction through using the teeth. This does not occur all the time but when you first use the extra friction side you will immediately notice a difference versus a normal ATC. Rapelling is very safe and secure. Great device, and I have been happy with it. It belays and rappels well with all rope diameters.
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By: sms (3) February 25, 2006
A great lock-off belay device. Doesn't have the best rope feed of belay devices I've used, but it’s definitely adequate.
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By: 2dtop (1) January 29, 2006
I ordered all the basic climbing gear for my sister. She is a beginner climber and loves her new gear. The harness runs a little small, I had read this in a review and ordered a size larger for her so it fit fine. The staff in customer service was helpful with replying promptly to a question I had with my order. I was very pleased with the whole ordering process.
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By: Miguel (5) August 18, 2005
I have a whole bunch of models of rappelling baskets, and the Black Diamond ATC-XP is the best and most comfortable to use. Don't waste your time and get the best. This is it.
Migs
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By: Jordan P. (6) July 20, 2005
At first I thought the teeth might just a gimmick to charge a little more for a fancy-looking ATC, but I thought I'd try it out. My climbing partners have about 60 lbs on me (I'm 5'3"/120) and I thought something that would increase the friction when I lock-off would be great. This ATC really delivered! Of course other Black Diamond ATCs don't slip when you lock-off correctly, but this one holds just as much without having to try as hard to maintain a steep angle, which can be tiring if you're using it all day. Better to save your energy for the climb. And for the times I belay someone more than my size I just flip it and use the regular friction side.
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By: mcfly (1) May 10, 2005
I am a beginner to repelling so I don't know too much about the sport. I bought the ATC-XP because it was the best price I found. I have used it a couple of times and so far it has worked great.
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By: Chris (1) March 20, 2005
This variable Friction belay device is great. It gives you a little more control and makes belaying easier than the regular ATC in high friction mode. However if you do not want high friction just turn it around and it is like the regular ATC. Great product. Recommend buying it if you do a lot of belaying.
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By: sean (1) March 18, 2005
The ATC has good flow without too much friction. It’s great for belay or repel. I recommend it.
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By: msf (2) March 14, 2005
I have used the older BD ATC device, and a Trango device, and have found that this is the best of the three. When rappelling, the teeth on the device make controlling speed relatively easy.
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By: Eric B. (3) January 12, 2005
I bought one of these and I liked it, but it is a little hard to get the rope in the teeth, unlike the ATC. With the ATC you can put the rope to the side, at any place and it stops the fall. With the ATC-XP you have to get it in those little teeth. Now you can flip it around and use it the other way, but whats the point of getting the ATC-XP. If you are just starting out, this is a good item, it will give you a little edge. If you are not just starting out, and you are exploring new stuff, I prefer the ATC because I like the simplicity much better.
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By: BossHogg (2) November 3, 2004
The ATC-XP locks very quickly and holds strong with several types of rope. Gym ropes that are thick (11mm), sometimes make for a bumpy belay. The belay on smaller diameter ropes offers an astoundingly smooth belay.
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By: jhrex (2) October 3, 2004
Great device, works great with smaller ropes too.
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By: DrJ (6) August 25, 2004
Just as solid as the standard ATC, the ATC XP is great for weaker belayers, for more control, or for lazy belays. Repels and belays just as well as the standard ATC. Bomber.
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By: backcountryreviewer - tony (21) May 19, 2004
We all know the ATC. We probably all have one or have owned one at some point. How can BD possibly improve on such a classic, clean, simple, lightweight and proven design? They add teeth. I was skeptical about the ATC-XP at first, but I am a believer now. It's basically the same trusted feel of the regular ATC but when you want to use them, the teeth are a worthy feature. Skinny double rope rappels won't cause your palms to heat up like a burner plate anymore. And it's still lightweight, compact, and of course bombproof. Pick one up.
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By: dreammachine (2) September 4, 2003
On pictures it may look a little fragile, or weak, but when you have it on your biner, you change your mind. While belaying you don´t worry of your partner, because it holds falls great. While rappelling you can control your descent great. Highly recommended.
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Tech Specs:
Auto Locking:
No
Strength:
22kN
Recommended Use:
Variable tension needing belays/rappels
Weight:
89g
Warranty:
1 year