Black Diamond ATC-XP

I have been using a GriGri for years while belaying sport routes, but am now stoked on the XP for a few reasons. It's light, really easy to thread, and the high friction mode makes controlling during lowers or rappels super easy. Love it!

I use the toothy side for lead belaying climbers heavier than I am, or for rappelling on skinnier ropes.

Got a fatter rope, or a skinnier climber to belay, go for the toothless side. Love it!

I use a 10.3mm rope for rock climbing and the ATC-XP works great with it. The high friction side is great for belay, however not for rappel; it's a little bit too much friction and sometimes you have to feed the rope when you're beginning the descent at the top of the route. But that's why this ATC has a low friction side and it performs really good too. Definitely recommended.

The ATC-XP works great and makes belaying easy with the high friction side, but also allows for a smooth rappel with the low friction side. I have had it for a year and a half now and it is still going great.

I like my XP just fine, it works just like it is suppose to. But after I bought it I read an article that said the longer friction channel and sharper V shape of the BD ATC builds more heat from friction and is harder on your rope's sheath then others like the Reverso 3 which has half the channel length and a more rounded trough.

Used the teeth when i was repealing with a wet 8mm rope and worked awesome

Just as solid as the standard ATC, the ATC XP is great for weaker belayers, for more control, or for lazy belays. Repels and belays just as well as the standard ATC. Bomber.

I'm new at outdoor climbing and my first time out I used a black diamond ATC and my shoulder was sore the next day. With the XP I have no problems and the grooves make belaying a breeze.

very easy and intuitive for the occasional climber

This is my first belaying device. I read other reviews on this device and it works just as they say. Works excellent for me and if I loose it, I will buy it again. I like the control it gives and I haven't experienced rope problems when using it. If you haven't got one, buy it!

This is such a great improvement from the original ATC. The teeth and the v-shaped rim really help take pressure from your arms, hands, and minds. It's great for rappelling and belaying, and it is very light and simple, and also inexpensive.

Long-lasting and efficient. Double mouths and teeth provide control. This is my go-to belay device unless rope-soloing or big-wall. Perfect for sport and multi-pitch trad.

This ATC is very solid, feels very durable and safe. 10+mm ropes go through easily and the teeth are a nice added friction when rappelling or belaying someone down.
On the other hand, it's a bit big compared to the others.

We all know the ATC. We probably all have one or have owned one at some point. How can BD possibly improve on such a classic, clean, simple, lightweight and proven design? They add teeth. I was skeptical about the ATC-XP at first, but I am a believer now. It's basically the same trusted feel of the regular ATC but when you want to use them, the teeth are a worthy feature. Skinny double rope rappels won't cause your palms to heat up like a burner plate anymore. And it's still lightweight, compact, and of course bombproof. Pick one up.

Every climber should own this piece of gear. You won’t need another belay or rappel device with this on your side.

On pictures it may look a little fragile, or weak, but when you have it on your biner, you change your mind. While belaying you don´t worry of your partner, because it holds falls great. While rappelling you can control your descent great. Highly recommended.

A great lock-off belay device. Doesn't have the best rope feed of belay devices I've used, but it’s definitely adequate.

This is a really nice ATC. A regular ATC gets it done but the teeth on this make it stand out.

If it doesn't pass a whistle test, don't use it. Safe'n up Fools..........

I have a whole bunch of models of rappelling baskets, and the Black Diamond ATC-XP is the best and most comfortable to use. Don't waste your time and get the best. This is it.
Migs

Great device, works great with smaller ropes too.

The ATC-XP locks very quickly and holds strong with several types of rope. Gym ropes that are thick (11mm), sometimes make for a bumpy belay. The belay on smaller diameter ropes offers an astoundingly smooth belay.

I have used this device for about a year. It is better than a figure-eight device because it doesn't twist the rope. The high friction mode slows the rappel to make it safer, and when used to belay I fell it stops the fall faster. The price seems okay and it is light and easy to use. Durable. I found the workmanship somewhat wanting: Not polished. But the function is superior.

I have used the older BD ATC device, and a Trango device, and have found that this is the best of the three. When rappelling, the teeth on the device make controlling speed relatively easy.

The ATC has good flow without too much friction. It’s great for belay or repel. I recommend it.

This variable Friction belay device is great. It gives you a little more control and makes belaying easier than the regular ATC in high friction mode. However if you do not want high friction just turn it around and it is like the regular ATC. Great product. Recommend buying it if you do a lot of belaying.

Have used this only once (I just received it recently) and it works great. The 'teeth' that are sculpted into the steel work great in two settings - high friction and standard - both hold the weight of the climber without putting too much strain on the belayer.

I bought one of these and I liked it, but it is a little hard to get the rope in the teeth, unlike the ATC. With the ATC you can put the rope to the side, at any place and it stops the fall. With the ATC-XP you have to get it in those little teeth. Now you can flip it around and use it the other way, but whats the point of getting the ATC-XP. If you are just starting out, this is a good item, it will give you a little edge. If you are not just starting out, and you are exploring new stuff, I prefer the ATC because I like the simplicity much better.

I am a beginner to repelling so I don't know too much about the sport. I bought the ATC-XP because it was the best price I found. I have used it a couple of times and so far it has worked great.

And I couldn't be happier with it. Has a good bite and belays well. Lightweight and low profile.

I am a beginner climber and this is a great belay device. It's easy to use and well made. All of my friends have this one too. Gotta have it!

At first I thought the teeth might just a gimmick to charge a little more for a fancy-looking ATC, but I thought I'd try it out. My climbing partners have about 60 lbs on me (I'm 5'3"/120) and I thought something that would increase the friction when I lock-off would be great. This ATC really delivered! Of course other Black Diamond ATCs don't slip when you lock-off correctly, but this one holds just as much without having to try as hard to maintain a steep angle, which can be tiring if you're using it all day. Better to save your energy for the climb. And for the times I belay someone more than my size I just flip it and use the regular friction side.

I ordered all the basic climbing gear for my sister. She is a beginner climber and loves her new gear. The harness runs a little small, I had read this in a review and ordered a size larger for her so it fit fine. The staff in customer service was helpful with replying promptly to a question I had with my order. I was very pleased with the whole ordering process.

The XP is a great device, the only problem that I have had is there being too much friction through using the teeth. This does not occur all the time but when you first use the extra friction side you will immediately notice a difference versus a normal ATC. Rapelling is very safe and secure. Great device, and I have been happy with it. It belays and rappels well with all rope diameters.

Yes, the high friction mode is nice when repelling or dealing with a load, but these teeth do hangup rope-feed when belaying; Either way I flipped this device I always felt more drag than the classic ATC design.

This ATC is like most other ATC's you'll find on the market. The added friction comes in handy for abseiling, and belaying otherwise like all other ATC's, it does what it's suppose to do. If it didn't, I wouldn't be writing this right now.

I have used a few different belay devices, but I enjoy this one the most. It has low friction until you put it in the break position and requires minimal tension to remain in the break position. My partner has taken some hefty whippers and this stops any extra slack being fed to him.

I use an atc xp and would recommend upgrading to a Guide xp It's the same belay device just with more options one day you might want the auto lock feature. The teeth are great for double ropes that are smaller in size.

This ATC is still a pretty simple design, but in may ways it's better. It catches the rope better making it a little easier on your hand.

As a beginning climber, I feel so much more confident belaying using the Black Diamond ATC-XP. The 'high friction mode' (pulling the rope over its contoured teeth) makes a big difference in control belaying a heavier partner. Plus it is so easy to use.

I LOVE THIS BELAY. ITS A LITTLE MORE DURABLE THEN YOUR BASIC BELAY. LIGHTWEIGHT, EASY TO USE

I still have to convince my wife that ATC is a clever name .... but its good to know that she can have the extra friction as a beginning climber. I have been climbing 15 years and love this device as well. If you are looking at getting just one belay device- this is it!

Takes the shortcomings of many devices on the market and improves on them. Even my novice Nephews find it simple to use. (Supervised of Course) Never used the low friction side before though, never needed to yet. Must admit heat buildup is significant compared to other tube devices but the dissipation is really quick so thats good.

usually climb with people who are heavier than me, and the little teeth on the end are wonderful. they provide more control, and i'm less prone to rope burn.

The Black Diamond ATC-XP is easily my favorite ATC. The high friction mode helps a lot especially when belaying someone who weighs more than you. I also love it for its versatility in rappelling. The high friction mode gives you security on those long rappells but filp it around and have fun soaring down those others with a little more speed. It is the best ATC for the all around climber/canyoneer.

As a novice climber, I love the friction on this rope. I seem to always be belaying someone heavier than me, and this gives me the control I need to feel confident doing so.

simple and easy to use

I'm just under 2 bills and my wife is only 1 and she can belay me with ease with this thing.

Easy to use, holds well, no problems

This is a good belay device. However, I have found that it tends to blacken the rope faster than other belay devices, particularly than the block belay devices, like the classic ATC and others. It's a great device other than that.

The slow descent really does make a great controlled descent that allows you to feel in control. I've caught several big falls on it so far and its working great. Def. would recommend for price and quality.

This biner has great friction locks. You can repel someone twice your weight almost without holding the rope down! Allows great control over the rope. Highly recommended!