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Description

A trad climber's delight.

Scarpa designed its Techno X Climbing Shoe to excel on practically any route you throw it on, from vertical, technical sport climbs to trad routes with cracks and slabs. While the technical flat-lasted construction makes this shoe comfortable for all-day climbing on the big walls, its Bi-Tension active randing system provides maximum power on your toe without cramming them down. And its flat toe profile ensures you can jam your foot in the smallest cracks with the utmost comfort. Perforated suede leather provides comfort and breathability, and microsuede overlays add durability. Its Flexan 1.4 midsole keeps the shoe stiff for quality edging and increased support, and the Vibram XS Edge rubber offers incredible grip and durability so you can smear slabby sections with confidence for many seasons. Scarpa left this shoe unlined for an increased sensitivity, which is something you appreciate when you're climbing on slippery, dime-sized edges.

  • Suede upper with microsuede overlays
  • Asymmetrical lacing system
  • Flat toe profile
  • Flexan 1.4 midsole
  • Vibram XS Edge rubber
  • Unlined
  • Bi-Tension active randing system
  • Technical flat-lasted construction

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Here's what others have to say...

Unanswered Question

I had a pair of the old yellow and gray techno's (http://www.backcountry.com/scarpa-techno-climbing-shoe) and absolutely loved them. Anyone know if the sizing between the old Techno and the new Techno X is the same/similar? Would love to replace my old pair...

5 5

Great all around "comfort"

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
  • Fit: True to size
  • Height: 6' 0"
    Weight: 170 lbs
    Size Purchased: 44.5

The more I climb in these the more I love them! I originally bought this as all day crack/trad shoes, but I'm finding that I wear them pretty much all the time. They break the stigma of a "comfort" shoe. They feel great on my feet but I still get loads of performance out of them. Love the slight downturn and stiff sole, you get great performance without having to jam your feet in there.

As for sizing, my street shoe is a US 12 (45.5). For these guys I could have gone with a 45 and been totally fine, but I like my shoes on the snugger side. I ended up getting a 44.5 and after the (minimal) stretching, these guys are perfect!

My advice for sizing on these would be stay at your street size or a half size down for comfort, or a full size down for a snugger fit. Any more than a full size down and you're defeating the intended purpose of this shoe.

I'd highly recommend these shoes for anyone who is in the market for a multipurpose trad/crack/all-day shoe. I wouldn't necessarily recommend these as a beginner shoe, they aren't sensitive and it make make it difficult to learn proper footwork.

Hit me up with any questions!

Ben
brabinowitz@backcountry.com
801-746-7564

Great all around "comfort"
Responded on

Hi Ben, I wear street shoe US 11.5 and went with the 45. I'm experiencing crushing across the tops of my toes, mostly big toe. My question is what did you consider minimal stretching and how long did it take?

Unanswered Question

Harrison, I also climb with a mythos but it's getting time to look at purchasing a new pair of shoes. I wear a 44.5 in my mythos. I saw that you purchased a 43.5 in the Techno X. Did you wear a 43.5 in the mythos? How did the sizing compare?

Unanswered Question

I wear a 44 evolv does scarpa sizing run about the same?

5 5

Off the shelf shoe with a custom fit!

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
  • Fit: True to size
  • Height: 6' 0"
    Weight: 155 lbs
    Size Purchased: 43.5

This is the first climbing shoe that I can wear all day long multi pitching El Potrero. The Techno X is the comfort of a moccasin and the performance of a stiff toe and a nice thick edge. These are a real upgrade from my Mythos. I have a bit of Morton's toe; the toe next to the big toe being a bit longer than the big toe, and the Techno X are the first full on climbing shoe I can wear. Great for sticking those small nubbins that I find at Smith.
On the down side, they turn my feet blue, no I don't lace them that tight, its the dye. Is this dye bad for you? Don't know, but sure love the shoes.

Responded on

Harrison, I also climb with a mythos but it's getting time to look at purchasing a new pair of shoes. I wear a 44.5 in my mythos. I saw that you purchased a 43.5 in the Techno X. Did you wear a 43.5 in the mythos? How did the sizing compare?
Thanks.

I wear a size 13 street shoe and a size 46 in most La Sportiva shoes, should I get a 46 in these as well or closer to a 47?

Responded on

I've found that Scarpa is a full Euro size bigger than sportive. So yes, go 47 in Scarpa.

5 5

Fantastic Shoe!

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
  • Fit: True to size

I have gone through several shoes over the years and these are just awesome. Comfortable, stick like mad and handle just about anything you throw at them. For an all day do it all shoe this is it. I wear a 9.5 in a street shoe and the 9 fits my foot awesome. These will stretch just a tad, or at least mine have.

5 5

My go-to shoe.

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
  • Fit: True to size

I wear a street shoe of 9.5 and bought these in a 9.0. They stretch just enough to make them fit like a dream. I bought these while at Smith Rock (redpoint cafe) and they are perfect for that type of climbing. Stiff shoe. They've been called a Mythos killer and I think that's accurate. Not only are they stiff and comfortable, but I can edge on them like no other. Think of them like a Mythos + the Pinks and you'll get a sense of why I love these bad boys.

Complaints:

1. When you first wear them the band really digs into your achilles. The back of the shoe is abnormally high and will leave an abrasion mark. After about 15 wears that went away, so still 5 stars.

2. For my foot the toe box was perfect and I felt like I could edge on anything with my big toe. However, it doesn't achieve the same pointedness as, say, the muiras. As a bouldering shoe, it's sub-par, but that's not what the shoe is about. So still 5 stars.

For reference: I also wear a 9.0 in Moccasyms and my foot doesn't work with an Anasazi VCS.

Has anyone else had problems with the technos being slippery? I bought a pair, they fit great, but had so little friction that when I used them at the climbing gym I was unable to do many smeary climbs that I am used to doing with my old scarpa helixes

Responded on

Hey Lucas,

If you are not digging the rubber on the Techno X but still want a flat lasted laceup that performs well, you might check out the Five Ten Stonelands Laceup, Item# FVT1996. They use Stealth C4, which you can't beat for friction and edging.

Responded on

Hey guy,

Not sure if these perform the same as the old Technos but I mine definitely took a few sessions and more to break in/ get used to the rubber. I remember thinking the exact same thing my first few trips to the gym with them, but then it was a non issue after.

I wear Scarpa Vapor V size 44.5. Should I...

I wear Scarpa Vapor V size 44.5. Should I get the same size in these?

Best Answer Responded on

I would go with the same size you wear in the Vapor V. I just sent you an email as well in regards to sizing and order options we have to help accommodate you in getting the perfect size.

5 5

Versatility on the rocks.

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
  • Fit: True to size

I'm a huge fan of switching shoes every time my previous pair blows out, but I think I might stick with the Scarpa Techno X climbing shoe for the rest of my life. I got these versatile shoes two weeks ago and I've already put them through the wringer. The first place I took them to was the West Sawtooths, and they performed better than I expected.

So far, these are the best shoes I've climbed with whether I'm climbing crack, slab, or techy faces. They edge, smear, and jam so comfortably that I can wear them for days, so multipitches aren't a problem.

Expect a half-size stretch.

5 5

Performance, comfort, versatility!

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times
  • Fit: True to size

Scarpa has clearly taken their time with this one and Heinz Mariacher, the shoe designer, has designed one hell of a shoe.

The easiest way to describe this shoe would be to say it's where the La Sportiva TC Pro meets the Scarpa Vapor VS Lace. This shoe has the comfort and all day multi-pitching ability of the TC pro but with a precise and conformed fit like that of the Vapor. The "active randing" technology used in this shoe provides hard precision in the toe, a well fitting heel, without the hard aggressive downturn in the toebox. Imagine a non-to-slightly aggressive Solution but with the same form fitting.

The toe box is narrow in profile and cams wonderfully in cracks. It has a small protective layer of rubber which keeps the shoe lasting longer. The flat last allows for precise and friction filled slab climbing, but with significant edging ability.

Although the shoe material is leather - their is so much rubber that forms the rand and on the toe box that it doesn't seem to stretch out much so fit true to size - maybe half size down for more aggressive fit.

Responded on

Dude. Solid review. For those considering this shoe, I agree with this review. It's like a TC Pro with way more precision and edging ability. I also agree your the comment about it being able to perform like more downturned shoes "without the aggressive downturn."