An essential part of your trad rack.
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Share your thoughts
I purchased this shoe in the same size as I purchase some higher performance Scarpa climbing shoes (Instinct Lace, Vapor V's) as a starting point to find a comfortable all day shoe for long routes in the German/Austrian Alps and Dolomites. Out of the box these things fit like a glove. So far I have been able to use them well in cracks and on small foot placements up long slabby routes, climbing all day comfortably. Not a shoe I would use for steep single pitch routes, but if you're trying to do a 1,000 feet in a day this shoe does it well.
I've used these for some bouldering and top climbing around Hawaii. They are study shoes. I have wide feet, so the laces (rather than velcro) let me adjust the width accordingly. I bought the size that I usually buy in street shoes, and they fit well. The sides are soft enough that after a few wears they sort of mold to your feet and become really comfy.
- Gender: Female
- Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
I am loving my new Scarpa Technos. I climb three times a week in the gym and take at least one trip outdoors per month, so they are getting plenty of use! They do great on pretty much everything, from crack and granite slab in the Wichitas to Reimers and bouldering at Rogers park.
Sharp edges, great adjustable lacing, secure heel cup and good sticky rubber. Not a super technical shoe, but you can tell that just by looking. Great all round all day shoe.
Fit: True to size, good for wide feet, especially if you get the men's shoe (if you are gal with wide feet!)
- Gender: Male
- Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
Had these for about 6 months and have used them for a few alpine climbs, a bit of cragging, and a lot of sport climbs. They're super comfortable and are great on cracks compared to my old sport climbing slippers. I wear a size 10 street shoe, and the size 42 Techno's fit me great (minus a painful period of ~6 hours of climbing stretching them out at first). Durability seems to be fairly good so far.
I wear a 11.5-12 regular street shoe, this being my first pair of climbing shoes I decided to get a 12. The fit is about as perfect as can be. The laces allow for different shaped and witdh'd feet, toes are tight and the heel lock can easily be manipulated. being a flatter sole trad (traditional) shoe, it's reccomended to get close to your street shoe size rather than downsizing. Hope this helps
Lace up is the way to go for us with wide EEE feet can be quite comfortable when the RIGHT size is chosen, Scarps Run Way small,order 1.5 sizes above you street shoe lace up to fit correctly, soak them in mineral oil to soften, stuff an old Tee inside to soak up excess oil, enjoy!
Just curious... are these true to size? Do they fit like the size of a casual shoe or no?
Most people will downsize around half to a whole size from their street shoe size. Go half size down if you want it for longer days or a whole size if you are looking for a more performance fit.
The short answer is no. I am an avid boulder-er and sport climber, I would never purchase a pair of climbing shoes without trying them on. My first shoes was the La Sportiva Nago; In casual shoe I wear a 9-9.5, however in the Nago I was a 7. My next pair of shoes was the La Sportiva Muira XS which I wore a 7.5. Overall I would recommend going to a local retail store and trying some on. Then coming home and making the purchase off of backcountry taking advantage of the discounts. Simply purchasing them off of the internet will most likely lead to a return.
I wear a size 12 street shoe and have the Technos in 45, tight at first they stretch a bit and now can be worn comfortably all day long. That sounds like 'true to size' to me, as I only went down a half size from my approach shoe.
Technical enough for most things that you'll run into while being very comfortable once broken in, these are solid performers that thrive outdoors. They perform pretty well on edges, and very well in cracks. They work fine in the gym as well for those of you who don't like being that climbing partner that holds up your group by fiddling with your shoes every pitch due to comfort issues.
Rubber is not super sticky but still very good, and really transmits the feeling of the contour of the rock to your feet very well, so you know exactly what you're doing with your feet.
Original size is relatively true to a little big. Mine stretched about a quarter to half size, so take that into account and size accordingly.
For all day and multipitch sport and trad sessions, these are my go to shoe.
Wicker Cranium, Squamish BC
These shoes are comfortable and high performance.
Very durable shoes. Sticky rubber. Relatively comfortable. Edge OK. They haven't stretched much in the past year. I had a friend break one of the nylon webs which lock your heel down but mine are still going strong. Great trad shoe for sure.
how much do these shoes stretch? they fit me perfect in the store.
I would say 1/2 size about 8mm
I love these shoes. They're comfy, have great articulation with the fit with the laces and heel strap able to adjust to your foot in almost any orientation, and have great rubber. However, the fit doesn't work for me. They're too narrow in the toes. My foot isn't really wide, but they're too wide for these shoes. Also, the shape of the toe towards the outside means that anything small you want to catch requires you to point your toe straight at the wall. My La Sportiva Venoms allow for a much more relaxed stance when edging. These are great trad shoes (if they don't kill your feet), but not great for sport. You'll have to go down a couple of sizes when buying Scarpa, but don't go down too much because these shoes don't stretch as much as you would hope.
climbing in the Swell
had mine now for about a year. still doing great. great for catching an edge and really hugging the wall. i've climbed with em on quartz, sandstone, limestone, etc and they've held up great. i dig em, but not super aggressive.
on a wall in action.