Scarpa Mont Blanc GTX Boot - Men's

Thank you James!
A lot of useful info there. Yeah, from quick internet research Petzl Lynx seem to be like a very versatile and a winner. Will check out local stores and see if they have them in stock to try with different boots.

Regarding the boots, it's just that I already have the Mont Blancs, but never went above 4,500m so not sure how 7,000m will feel like.
Also, it might be an off-topic question, from Scarpa website both the MONT BLANC GTX and the PHANTOM GUIDE have the same last: AG, so it would be reasonable to assume that if MONT BLANC 42.5 fit me, so should the PHANTOM GUIDE? or should i go a 1/2 size bigger/smaller?

Thank you again!!

Phantom 6000 will be a better bet, although if you're climbing technical stuff, the Guide would serve you a little better. Don't skimp when it comes to your feet. If you consistently get cold feet, something like the Spantik might be the best choice of all.

As for crampons, I've heard of some problems with the points deforming under body weight on a couple pairs of the Sabertooths, so beware of those. Grivel G12 crampons are a favorite for a lot of climbers, and the Petzl Lynx seems like the new classic. Thing is, you need to get crampons that fit your boots really well, or else you could be in trouble, so don't buy them online. Buy your boots first, then go into a store and fit as many as you can. The best crampons will basically stay on your boot with just the toe bail attatched, and not the heel. If there's no store nearby, buy a couple pairs online, fit them, and return the ones that don't fit perfectly.

Agree on the fit factor. I bought the Scarpa because I have a fairly wide foot. I've been very happy with them in very similar conditions.

Hi Mat, I leave a few miles away from Aconcagua, right in the middle of the Andes. You don't need a Scarpa Inverno to go to Aconcagua, unless you do the South face, the Polish glacier, or do it in the winter time... You can go with a double plastic boot, but they are kind of heavy...

Try them on and see what fits, the Nepal and the Mont Blanc are made on different last so they will fit different feet. Other than that they are extremely similar boots. Fit is the most important factor in selecting mountaineering boots.

Were are you going?

So yeah, where/how do want to use these? Mont Blanc vs. Inverno is an discussion based primarily on where & when you are heading and what you are doing while there...

for example Scarpa Inverno..? Koflach Degrees? I mean, this technology can be used as an alternative of plastic boots? Or they are suposed for different uses?

LoL you should ask a better question. Plus show us another picture to match what you are talking about so we my better serve you.

My wife went through the same problem with a snowshoe trip last year, so many ups and downs, that she blackened her big toenails on both feet, they have since fallen off, which yours probably will too. What happened is that with the downwards step, you are putting too much pressure on the toe, which is quite normal, the trick here is to keep your toes from grinding up inside the toe box and causing these issues. Try tightening the ankle area more to keep your heel down in the boot, and try to wear only one pair of socks.

@Gould, re: "I am signing up for Rainier next year in Sept but will will be using the previous model being the Scarpa Summits. Anyone know if this is sufficient or better to use a double boot on Rainier?"

The Summit should work fine on Rainier in September. I wore Summits while slopping around Rainier in August and had no troubles at all from the boots.

A similar use boot overall to the Mont Blanc, albeit the older design of the Summit has a "fatter" collar above the ankle. I like the fit of the Mont Blanc GTX better as I find it is easier to snug up and keep a good fit/tension. Temperature wise, they are just about equal. I'm normally on the warm side and have had the Summits easily remain comfortable, for me, down into the 15F range. Love the Vibram soles on the Summit, had no trouble with them clogging up with slush or snow when the crampons were off.

Definitely take some time to put some miles on the Summits if you haven't already to make sure you know if/where you get hotspots. I cracked off ~75 miles in mine before they felt really good and got past hotspots on my heels.

I also recommend getting better insoles (Scarpa's insoles are pretty "meh") and less stretchy laces to aid in keeping the Summits properly tensioned to prevent slip in the heel.

Overall Scarpa Summits are a great boot, especially if you scored a pair at a reasonable price on closeout. Hard to beat for overall comfort, usability, and toughness.

Double boot setup is usually overkill on Rainier IMO (especially in the warmer months), but definitely a safe option for those without much experience in that environment.

Hope this helps...

I am signing up for Rainier next year in Sept but will will be using the previous model being the Scarpa Summits. Anyone know if this is sufficient or better to use a double boot on Rainier?

Sorry I can't compare directly, but these are pretty darn warm. I wore these all last year winter mountaineering and ice climbing. I'll be using these on Rainier this summer. The sizing chart is pretty spot on. I wear a 11.5 in most shoes and bought the 11.5 - 12 size equivalent and it fits great with thick wool socks.

I wear an 11.5 usually, sometimes 11, occasionally 12. I wear a 45.5 in the Scarpa Charmoz (which is a different last than the Mont Blanc.) Scarpa says 45.5 is = 11 2/3 U.S. sizing. I have tried the Mont Blanc in 45 and 45.5. I think if you usually want more toe room (length) get the 45.5, otherwise the 45.

I wear between 46 and 47 in Scarpas, probably 47s in these, and I take 13s in Salomons. So yeah, try a 45.

I would go size 45

I would say the 44 or 44.5 to avoid toe bang. Try both on with a pair of custom insoles and go kick practice kicking in the store. You'll know which one is better for you based on how many toe kicks it takes before you feel the front of the boot.

You'll probably want to try on the 43.5 and 44. Also in my experience the Mont Blanc has the best heel hold of any boot I've tried so you may not need the neoprene booty.

They won't go down to -25C. I would say -18C is the min temp rating for these without overboots. If you need -25C, look to the Scarpa 6000 Guides, or a plastic boot like the Omegas.

I would say the would be comparable in stiffness to the Nepal. They both have fully rigid insoles to accept fully rigid crampons. These do have goretex duratherm insulation in them so hey will keep your feet toasty. As far as -25c i cannot comment since all sorts of variables play into this.. I do know that i have been pretty cozy in some cold weather in Colorado . They will fit a touch wider than the Lasportiva

I've had this boot for a couple of weeks now and have mostly been using them for vertical ice. I LOVE them. I have climbed in a couple different La Sportivas and these are my favorites so far. I have a fairly girly foot and they still fit great.

Hi Lorenzo. You'll want to try on a 44 and/or a 44.5 depending on your sock choice. Also the Mont Blanc does a good job of fitting people with wider feet, but we've also seen plenty of happy customers with average feet in this boot. The boot was designed with a brand new last and a great lacing system to fit a wide range of feet.

The Mont Blanc is equivilant to the LS Nepals in both warmth and performance. The Phantom Guide is built on the same lower platform which offers plenty of rigidity for front pointing. The boot I'd recommend for you is the the Jorasses Pro which is just as stiff under foot but is lighter and more nimble for difficult mixed moves.

In general most fully step in crampons will fit this boot, but it is always good to try as there tends to be a lot of variance in toebail and heel bail dimensions among all the crampons. I personally am using the Petzl Dart Leverlock (not the sidelock) and the Black Diamond Sabertooth Clip

I'd think a 44.5 would likely be your size. I fit mine at the same size as my Brannock size but because of your specail feet a half size up would probably fit better. According to my chart a US mens 10.5D translates to a Euro 44 so I think your on the right track with a 44.5

Sweet!

Well, using a Bannock shoe size gauge I'm an exact 9EE. I consider myself a 9.5 (42.5), and I usually wear a 9.5/10 in boots (with boot socks)

so a question would you consider your self to be a US 10.5 ? if so I would tend to steer you to a 43.5 . Shout back with your US size and we can hone it in for you

Since you're going to the Himalayas, I wouldn't be above getting the Millet Everest because you're going to some serious elevation not to mention a serious primitive part of the world. Also, Millet sizes up to a US 15.

Remember the saying: It's easier to keep warm than to try and rewarm.

If your feet get cold up there, it's going to be hard trying to rewarm them.

Downside: $799!

13.5 US, and thank you for the recommendation! although $600! ugh, that's a pretty big chunk of change. funny how being in %5 makes the price of my shoes jump up %75.....

Is that UK 13.5 or US 13.5?

If it's UK 13.5 then it's really is US 14.5.

If you're US 13.5 then I would probably start with La Sportiva Baruntse because they run in Euro size 48, 49, and 50. The reason why I suggest this boot is because it's a serious non-plastic double-boot that's in your size and I'm WAG'ing you're either a size 49 or a 50.

The down side: They're $600!!

My foot measures 12 inches by 5 inches and I wear a Euro 48.

You and I are in the 5 percentile of the shoe/boot world.

I think I've finally got my Mont Blanc dialed in regarding my heel seating properly:

I double sock, except on the outer sock I cut the tow box out just behind the first metatarsal head (Big toe knuckle). This set up really locks my heel in well.

The heel pressure I was feeling in my Summits have all but gone away. I achieved the best fit by tinkering around with socks, insoles and lacing. In the end, I'm using wool liners and light to medium weight wool sock, orange superfeet and lacing that I would describe this way: From the Toe to the nylon loop, I laced the boots really loosely. I'm lacing the "top half" of the boot tight. This combination of socks, insoles and lacing has given me the best comfort on long, up-hill slogs.

I get some discomfort in my Summits as well. I don't know if my heel is seated too much, or not enough. If I lace them up tight and push (or pull) the heel down into the heel cup, then I get the worst discomfort. If you think about the flexing action; with you heel pushed way down deep in the heel cup, and the boot flexing while stepping into an incline, the boots' tendency is to push or bury the heel hard into the heel cup. I have tried this with pretty good results: lace a bit more loosely than normal, use liner and hiking/trekking sock. I feel heel slip with this method, but at least my heel isn't being jammed into the hard cup. On descents, lace tighter so foot will not slip forward. My boot is still relatively new and seems to be getting better .. break in!

It sounds like your heel is not seated enough in the boot. The heel is lifting up.

1) Try an after market footbed.

2) Tighten your laces a little more.

3) Double up on the socks.

I have the same problem as you do in regards to heel lifting. Experiment with different combo's of the above-mentioned.

Had a similar problem in the La Sportiva Nepals this winter. I kept going thinking it would break in but wound up getting a bad case of tendonitis starting in early Jan. I took Rx anti-inflammatory drugs, wore flip flops al winter and iced every day for 8 weeks. I still can't wear boots or most shoes. May want to look at another boot

I'm slowing "dialing in" the fit of my Summit. I'm using the Orange Superfeet, with a liner and medium thick hiking sock, then playing with different lacing techniques. Also, the boot is breaking in more, so I'm starting to feel really comfortable with the boot. I like it!!

Thanks for the reply, Jefe!

Hopefully these boots will fit better than my Summit GTX.

Yes, more volume to accomodate more foot shapes. Also, the larger volume would handle more (or thicker) socks and/or after-market footbed. Having said that, I would definitely try them on if possible with the socks and footbed that you would normally use.

Jefe,
Bigger volume boot; Meaning for dudes with larger feet or for someone who wants to bulk up on sock-layers/combos?

Or both?

I ordered mine in size 48 because I have wide feet (12 6E). And my Summits are 47 but anything beyond a med. thick sock is too tight.

Yes, the Mont Blanc is insulated with GoreTex Duratherm, just like the Summits. The Mont Blanc is replacing the Summit, so same type of construction 3-plus mm leather with Pro Fiber mid sole for small amount of flex. Good for mixed climbing and general mountaineering. I have worn my Summits in temps around 0, so expect the Mont Blancs to have similar warmth. Mont Blanc is a bigger volume boot.

Thanks Ian for the link!

I should have defined what I meant by 'insulation'.

And according to the link it looks like it is insulated similar to the Summit.

Actually Dakka they are insulated. According to the link you posted they use a "Gore-Tex Insulated Comfort Footwear" liner. Here is the link to Gore's site that explains the insulation levels and options:
http://www.gore-tex.com/remote/Satellite/men/footwear/insulated-comfort

http://www.scarpa.co.uk/Products/Product.asp?ProductId=127

Not insulated, uses Gore membrane and an integrated snow gaiter to stay dry.

Thanks again, Terrence!

Ordered mine in Euro 48. Can't wait to get them!

Just measured mine, size 47. From bottom of sole to top is 10in., Just shy of 8 1/2in. from base of footbed.

Roger that, Terrence.

Judging by the extra set of lace hooks at the top (Attached to the snow gaiters), it looks to be possibly 9.5" to 10" tall. Wow!

these are taller than a scarpa summit or manta. more like a nepal evo or lhotse.