Slipper-like on the approach and talon-like on the ascent.
- Scarpa Ergo Fit allows for increased forward ankle mobility while climbing and controls lateral range to protect your ankle in rocky, rugged terrain
- A lightweight TPU midsole is thicker directly underfoot and thinner at the toe and heel to support comfortable approaches
- The Total Traction sole and the Pro Fibre insole have enough flexibility for long approaches but maintain enough stiffness to support Crampomatic crampons
- This stiff but slightly forgiving Pro Fibre insole matches the midsole flexibility and allows a small degree of longitudinal flex for comfort
- Upper cuffs use integrated gaiters to lock out the snow and trail debris
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Share your thoughts
While it felt good at first, I found that the heel slipped and the toes jammed in size 46. At 45.5, the heel was okay, but the toes jammed still. Maybe your foot will fit.
leaving the cave
I went from a pair of 10 year old Koflach boots that didn't fit me to these. Needless to say I was amazed. The climb very well and they are warm enough (knock on wood).
Are these being cleared out of inventory or are more sizes on there way? I would be a US 11.5-12.
Everywhere you go people talk about the La Sportiva Nepal EVO GTX. Too bad they are for narrow feet. I tried the scarpas because they have a wider toe box. With aftermarket footbeds these things are so comfortable. My past hiking boots have destroyed my feet and caused nerve damage between my toes. thank god for a company that gives a wider option and great quality to go along with it. I am very happy with these boots.
How do these compare to the La Sportiva Nepal Evos in terms of warmth and comfort? Which one is more recommended for winter hiking and mountaineering? Also, how is the fit on these, I wear a size 13 US Mens, would a size 47 fit me ok?
I can speak in terms of fit, the Scarpa Mont Blanc GTX are much wider in the heel and toebox. The La Sportiva Nepal Evos run much narrower.
Most of those I know that use this tend to get a 1/3 or 2/3 size bigger than their typical shoe size (EU sizes convert to thirds in US sizes).
Like the poster before me said, these fit a bit wider than the la sportivas, so that may translate to better comfort depending on the size/shape of your foot. Both are excellent mountaineering boots, each have both heel and toe welts for fully automatic (step in) crampons and full shanks, so they are extremely stiff. For winter mountaineering, these may be a little on the chilly side since they are single boots. In terms of warmth, the Evos and the Mont Blancs will be about the same, but I personally think they are better for something like summer mountaineering in the cascades. Winter might require double boots or over boots/super gaiters.
I bought these as an alternative to the La sportiva Nepals. I used them a couple of times, but later sold them to purchase the Nepals due to the fact that the heel locks much better on the Nepals. But that is just my particular foot so who knows how they will fit other peoples individual feet.
For those of you that may have (or be thinking of purchasing) the la sportiva trangos and so forth-this is a much taller boot. The trangos are more flexible in the ankle but provide less support-so its a trade off for what your needs are for the particular style of climbing you want to do. If I had to do a long approach in a full shank boot, I would rather have the trangos, but on colder climbs, where I will face deeper snow or crossing rivers etc-i would rather have these than the trangos etc.
And lastly, these do fit wider than the Nepals, but I have a pretty fat foot and the nepals still fit fine.
Otherwise, they are a great boot that is a less expensive version of the nepal.
I'm trying to decide between the Mont Blancs and the Triolet Pros. My main goal is to climb in the Cascades and the Winds this summer and fall on routes involving glacier travel and moderate rock. My understanding is that the Triolet Pros would be best for this.
The catch: I'd also like to do some easy ice and alpine climbing this winter -- it sounds like the Mont Blancs would excel for those purposes.
My questions: will I hate the Mont Blancs on 10 mile approach hikes in 70 degree weather? Or are the Mont Blancs really just a nicer boot with a touch more insulation that won't kill my feet in fair weather?
Note: I've tried on a handful of boots now and Scarpas are by far the best fit for me.
Thanks in advance for any insight.
Yes, you'll be hating life after a mile or two in 70 degree weather. I'd definitely opt for a lightweight approach shoe in that scenario.
IMHO the Mont Blancs are best used in ice/snow. They are way too heavy, inflexible, moonboot-ish to use on any non-winter terrain for any sustained amount of time. That said, they are the only mountaineering boots I've found that fit my wide clown feet. My ankles are relatively narrow and heel lift is a problem despite various lacing configurations. Getting a perfect fit continues to be a work in process, and I'm determined to get it right.
If I had to dump another chunk of change on some boots, I'd go with the Scarpa Charmoz; they seem a like a compromise between a three season boot and the Mont Blanc.
Planning to climb 7,134m
I'm planning to climb 7,134 metres (23,406 ft) peak, Lenin Peak in Pamir mountains in July/August and was wondering if these Scarpa Mont Blanc GTX are gonna be warm enough?
Or I should go for PHANTOM 6000 or PHANTOM GUIDE or SPANTIK or BARUNTSE?
But if I wore the Mont Blancs with Neoprene Wading Socks, how cold/warm will it be??
And what crampons would you recommend, I'm currently looking at BD Sabertooth.
Thank you all.
Phantom 6000 will be a better bet, although if you're climbing technical stuff, the Guide would serve you a little better. Don't skimp when it comes to your feet. If you consistently get cold feet, something like the Spantik might be the best choice of all.
As for crampons, I've heard of some problems with the points deforming under body weight on a couple pairs of the Sabertooths, so beware of those. Grivel G12 crampons are a favorite for a lot of climbers, and the Petzl Lynx seems like the new classic. Thing is, you need to get crampons that fit your boots really well, or else you could be in trouble, so don't buy them online. Buy your boots first, then go into a store and fit as many as you can. The best crampons will basically stay on your boot with just the toe bail attatched, and not the heel. If there's no store nearby, buy a couple pairs online, fit them, and return the ones that don't fit perfectly.
Thank you James!
A lot of useful info there. Yeah, from quick internet research Petzl Lynx seem to be like a very versatile and a winner. Will check out local stores and see if they have them in stock to try with different boots.
Regarding the boots, it's just that I already have the Mont Blancs, but never went above 4,500m so not sure how 7,000m will feel like.
Also, it might be an off-topic question, from Scarpa website both the MONT BLANC GTX and the PHANTOM GUIDE have the same last: AG, so it would be reasonable to assume that if MONT BLANC 42.5 fit me, so should the PHANTOM GUIDE? or should i go a 1/2 size bigger/smaller?
Thank you again!!
I've had these boots for about 2 years now and have done many many trips of all sorts in them. Not saying it will happen to you, but here is my experience with them.
-Didn't really seem to have a break-in period, they were always comfortable. have NEVER gotten a blister in them
-Very waterproof, no issues and I've crossed streams in them with my feet fully submersed
-Accommodate a wide foot well
-climb ice decently
-Not super warm. I have been worried about getting frostbite while guiding on Mt. Shasta in windchill around -20F (but I do tend to have colder feet) I've had them in a windchill of about -35F but wouldn't do that again!!
-the leather seemed to dry out pretty quickly, but doesn't effect the quality or performance
-Doesn't seem to have a super-snug heelcup. (I wish it did so that you could front-point a little better with crampons)
Overall its a good boot. As far as full on winter mountaineering i would not go with it. For general summer use for things like the cascade volcanoes and such, it works pretty well. Still you sometimes get those freak days in june/july where it can be super cold and these work in that, but do not excel. For an ice/mixed climbing boot, again, they work, but aren't the best in the market.
I've beat the crap out of them, and they're still truckin'. I wear about a size 9 and got these in a 42 which is a bit too small (my toes go numb midway through the summer guiding in these)
bottom line: Good boot, not great, probably some better ones out there for the pricetag
I've now climbed about 12,000 ft and 24 mi in these boots. Finally getting them dialed in. Laces needed to stretch, material needed to stretch, etc... They are extremely durable and waterproof. I've been comfortable down to a windchill of -20 F with a liner sock and heavy wool/silk combo hiking sock. Soft snow check, trail hiking check, kick steps check, microspikes check, mixed rock/snow check. I've sized my crampons on them but haven't had a chance to wear them together yet. The stock insole seems pretty solid. However I may add some gels to hold my heel in a bit better. I'm a standard US 10.5 in all shoes. I bought the 44.5 so I would have room for liners and/or two pairs of socks. I also have fairly wide feet. This size was perfect.
Question from aspiring mountaineer...
I'm looking to start doing some winter camping and mountaineering. In all likelihood, I'll do very little ice climbing. I plan to mostly climb California 14er's, Colorado 14er's, Rainier, Mexican Volcanoes, and Cotapoxi. If I can handle the altitude and cold well, I would love to someday climb Aconcagua and Denali. I know that I'll need a double plastic boot like the Scarpa Inverno on Aconcagua and Denali, but which boot would be a better as an all around mountaineering boot on the mountains mentioned above and all of the training in between? La Sportiva Nepal EVO GTX or the Scarpa Mont Blanc GTX? Something else? Assuming the fit works, I'm leaning towards Nepals since I see them recommended by numerous reputable guide companies. Thoughts?
Try them on and see what fits, the Nepal and the Mont Blanc are made on different last so they will fit different feet. Other than that they are extremely similar boots. Fit is the most important factor in selecting mountaineering boots.
Hi Mat, I leave a few miles away from Aconcagua, right in the middle of the Andes. You don't need a Scarpa Inverno to go to Aconcagua, unless you do the South face, the Polish glacier, or do it in the winter time... You can go with a double plastic boot, but they are kind of heavy...
Agree on the fit factor. I bought the Scarpa because I have a fairly wide foot. I've been very happy with them in very similar conditions.
Fit is most important. Your feet will be more comfortable and warmer in something that fits well. Fit changes by brand so try them all on, and dont forget to try them on with the socks you plan on using. Don't try to guess what the fit will be like with mountaineering socks on, take the socks with you. Wear them around the store for a long time, walk every isle. Definately spend alot of time finding the right boot. Never look at the price tag until you've found the boot that fits.
How should I decide between these kind of boots or plastic ones? Thanks!
LoL you should ask a better question. Plus show us another picture to match what you are talking about so we my better serve you.
for example Scarpa Inverno..? Koflach Degrees? I mean, this technology can be used as an alternative of plastic boots? Or they are suposed for different uses?
So yeah, where/how do want to use these? Mont Blanc vs. Inverno is an discussion based primarily on where & when you are heading and what you are doing while there...
So I've had these boots for a little while now, and loved them until yesterday. I used them to climb Mt. Hood twice, Mt. Adams once, and then took them up Mt. Rainier this weekend. Going up they were great and we made great time, but coming down my toes began to hurt. By the time we got to Muir they were hurting pretty bad, and by the time we got to Paradise they were killing. I had blisters galore over several toes and some discoloration below my big toenails. I've never had any issue with them until yesterday and don't know what to do next. I am normally a sz 10, went with the 10.5's. I have noticed a little bit of heel lift when going up, but not much at all and it doesn't rub enough to cuase blisters. Any idea what I can try to make these work for me? I don't want to have to go through that again, and I don't want to be stuck with an expensive pair of boots that kill me on the way down. Thanks all.
My wife went through the same problem with a snowshoe trip last year, so many ups and downs, that she blackened her big toenails on both feet, they have since fallen off, which yours probably will too. What happened is that with the downwards step, you are putting too much pressure on the toe, which is quite normal, the trick here is to keep your toes from grinding up inside the toe box and causing these issues. Try tightening the ankle area more to keep your heel down in the boot, and try to wear only one pair of socks.
Getting ready for some ice climbing in Provo Canyon
can anybody compare these to the kayland m11+. warmth, volume and sizing comparison.
Sorry I can't compare directly, but these are pretty darn warm. I wore these all last year winter mountaineering and ice climbing. I'll be using these on Rainier this summer. The sizing chart is pretty spot on. I wear a 11.5 in most shoes and bought the 11.5 - 12 size equivalent and it fits great with thick wool socks.
I am signing up for Rainier next year in Sept but will will be using the previous model being the Scarpa Summits. Anyone know if this is sufficient or better to use a double boot on Rainier?
@Gould, re: "I am signing up for Rainier next year in Sept but will will be using the previous model being the Scarpa Summits. Anyone know if this is sufficient or better to use a double boot on Rainier?"
The Summit should work fine on Rainier in September. I wore Summits while slopping around Rainier in August and had no troubles at all from the boots.
A similar use boot overall to the Mont Blanc, albeit the older design of the Summit has a "fatter" collar above the ankle. I like the fit of the Mont Blanc GTX better as I find it is easier to snug up and keep a good fit/tension. Temperature wise, they are just about equal. I'm normally on the warm side and have had the Summits easily remain comfortable, for me, down into the 15F range. Love the Vibram soles on the Summit, had no trouble with them clogging up with slush or snow when the crampons were off.
Definitely take some time to put some miles on the Summits if you haven't already to make sure you know if/where you get hotspots. I cracked off ~75 miles in mine before they felt really good and got past hotspots on my heels.
I also recommend getting better insoles (Scarpa's insoles are pretty "meh") and less stretchy laces to aid in keeping the Summits properly tensioned to prevent slip in the heel.
Overall Scarpa Summits are a great boot, especially if you scored a pair at a reasonable price on closeout. Hard to beat for overall comfort, usability, and toughness.
Double boot setup is usually overkill on Rainier IMO (especially in the warmer months), but definitely a safe option for those without much experience in that environment.
Hope this helps...
Hey guys. Live in Australia so can't try on. I wear a US 11.5 in Asics running shoes and Salomon trail running shoes. Just wondering what size you would recommend? Thanks for your help.
I would go size 45
I wear between 46 and 47 in Scarpas, probably 47s in these, and I take 13s in Salomons. So yeah, try a 45.
I wear an 11.5 usually, sometimes 11, occasionally 12. I wear a 45.5 in the Scarpa Charmoz (which is a different last than the Mont Blanc.) Scarpa says 45.5 is = 11 2/3 U.S. sizing. I have tried the Mont Blanc in 45 and 45.5. I think if you usually want more toe room (length) get the 45.5, otherwise the 45.