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Lace up and send.
- Down-turned toe and asymmetrical shape ensure edging performance
- Full-length laces allow a precise fit
- Vibram XS Grip2 soles give you all the friction you need
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Scarpa Mago Climbing Shoe
the best shoes I've ever owned
- Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
- Fit: True to size
I have had these shoes almost a year and have climbed in them endlessly, no other shoe has ever fit my foot like these. I wear a 10.5 in Nike running shoes and I bought these in a 42.5, and although the break-in was one of the worst ever, once they broke in they became hands down the best shoe I have ever climbed in. I have used them in the gym, on granite slabs(a little painful) and on some really pocketed volcanic rock, and they worked great everywhere. They excel at steep overhangs and small edges, but work well on the vertical stuff as well, I wouldn't recommend them on slabs because of the severe down turn, and the fact that I fit them really small. I have owned several five.ten shoes, a couple of sportiva's and some other shoe I can't remember the name of, and these have the best fit and functionality by far. I have not had any issues with durability, and I am known to be hard on my climbing shoes. If sportiva's seem to fit a bit weird, and five.ten's heel never works, give scarpa a try, and buy the mago if you are looking for a high performance tech shoe. I'm getting ready to buy a second pair in the same size and maybe even another pair a half size bigger for longer climbs, and I will get my current pair resoled as well. Currently I climb in these at the gym and for short stuff outside, the rest of the time I bite the bullet and deal with the horrible heel on my five.ten blancos for longer climbs(even though they are literally a bigger shoe, and about half as comfortable). I just can't say enough about how great these shoes are, the scarpa mago is the best climbing shoe I have ever owned.
Toe Drags like this cause the rubber to peel on top of the toe.
Good Shoe but i question the durability
- Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
- Fit: Runs small
This shoe is awesome and climbs really well. It edges like a champ and is my best smearing shoe surprisingly. The edges seem to be lasting long as well. I am mainly a boulderer and i drag my toe alot to keep body tension. This causes the rubber on top of the toe to peel. The way the rubber is designed on top of the toe is definetely flawed. It started to peel maybe after 2 weeks also one of my laces broke after a week or so as well. The leather on the toes is wearing out as well. Mine might be too small so it is causing some of this but i dont know for sure. It is a great shoe though and very high performance. It has definitely opened my eyes to scarpa.
Too painful for my toes!
- Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions
I bought these for sending some of my harder projects, even tried them on at a store before buying, but I just couldn't get over the pain from the down-turned toe. I sold them to a friend of mine who absolutely loves them though (even though he complains all the time about how much they hurt.) I guess there is a price to pay for sending the big numbers.
Scarpa Mago Climbing Shoe - Vibram XS
Love this shoe
I cannot say enough good things about this shoe. They are light a monkeys foot on steep overhangs, edge well, smear fantastically, and the heel cup heel hooks like a dream. They have become my every climb shoe, and I rarely regret it ;p
I have these in a 43 which is about half a size US down from my regular shoe size. The toe box on my left foot is a bit tighter than perfect, and as it doesn't really stretch out, it will always be so.
If you find the Solutions to be a bit uncomfortable, than I would highly recommend looking into either these or the Testarossa.
I bought them off eBay and they were a real bargain.
They are great on small footholds and yes they are really precise and pretty versatile. But after all i have to say they do nothing better than the vapor LU. The only difference to me is the magos are killer to break in while the vapor is comfy out of the box.
Those are not as good on overhangs as their brother and sister (booster/rockette) since they are really stiff in the toe because of that TPS thing.
Don�t get me wrong i really love that TPS and i do like stiff shoes a lot for route climbing. But if i�m looking for a stiff shoe for killer edging the Vapor Lace Up does the trick better because they are pretty much the same stiffness and do have the same power on the big toe. The major differnce is i can wear the vapor way longer without pain.
Also for real technical stuff, where a lot of changig on small footholds is required, the Mago is to asymetric an that makes footswaps hard.
They are a lot "pointier" in the big toe compared to the booster which makes them a lot better for pockets. But the TPS makes them loose a lot of sensitivity compared to the booster.
I would love the magos if they would come with XS Edgs instead of the XS Grip2. I don�t see the sence of such a stiff shoe made with soft rubber. The biggest limitation on small holds is the rubber wrapping around and not beeing firm enough "to stand on nothing".
How to do these compare to Scarpa's Vapor...
How to do these compare to Scarpa's Vapor V style shoes fit wise?
Answered my own question. Go a half size up from a vapor v or La Sportiva Miura VS. They will be painful as hell but get them very wet wear them off an on for an hour for two days then go climb and they will break in rather nice and fast.
Bouldering, Steeps, Lead Climbing!
The first 15 Hours of Having them the Heel Cup will feel to Large Your heel will most likely not touch the bottom of the shoe. Don't Be alarmed! In just 3 sessions of 5 Hours the shoe will break in and gain Not only comfort but Function as well. These run very small due to the curve in the shoe, I wear a 10.5-11 in street shoes and the 11.5 fits me perfectly I don't feel as much pain as the climbers who cram and these shoes still get the job done! Not a Beginner shoe.
Great for the Steeps!
The Magos have quickly become my go-to steep climbing shoe, thanks to their superb sensitivity combined with wicked heel-hooking precision. I have struggled for many years to find a shoe that fits my heel perfectly -- the Magos have provided a solution. They turn my feet into steep climbing paws. An awesome shoe.
I just pulled these guys out of the box. It was like getting Christmas early only to find out my present was jacked up. The heel cup on the shoes I got is deep, real deep. The image above is not what I received. The cup left about 1/4 inch of open space between my heel and the sole. No way of ever pulling off a heel hook in these. It looks like scarpa beefed up the rand that wraps the achilles tendon and by doing so jacked up the shape and depth of the heel. The pair I got measures 4 inches, yes 4 from the base of the heel to top of the leather above the rand that wraps the achilles tendon. The displacement of the protruding aspect of the heel cup to the opening of the shoe is a full two inches. So unless you have a massive heel, no achilles tendon, or are a skeleton watch out when you order these. This causes a loose heel, pushes your foot too far forward and contorts your toes too much.
Somebody is going to suggest the rubber rand will stretch and they will be perfect then. I would first have to be able to put weight on my toes in order to stretch them out. Second, I said they beefed up the rand that wraps the achilles and I'm not joking.
I rated 5 cause I'm sure they rock when put together properly. Somebody get quality control in here!!!
So I just got in the right fit for these shoes, and I am amazed. These are perfect. The only thing that I'm going to have to get used to is how precise the toes are. I've been used to a round toe so my footwork was a little sloppy.
Yo! how does the sizing run on these shoes?...
Yo! how does the sizing run on these shoes? I've had a pair of "evolv pontas lace ups" for a while now and they're a size 39. Would it be safe to go same size or 1 size larger/smaller?
Can't compare to the Evolv, but I sized mine down 1.5 sizes from my street shoe size.
Very tricky question. I read everywhere to size down about 1 size or so from your street shoe, so I did. Bad decision... I had to return the shoes because it was far too painful to keep them on for more than a few minutes. I am normally about a size 10 street shoe, so I went with a 42. I returned the shoe to get a 43 and hopefully they work. For the short time that I tried them, they were amazing. By the way, they don't stretch much either (maybe 1/2 size over quite a while.)
The best climbing shoe i ever had! It's wear my foot like vaccum package, with no waste space inside.
i have tried many of the aggressive scarpa...
i have tried many of the aggressive scarpa shoes on. however, i have had little success with the heel and the rands. is this shoe similar in the last and heel to the booster or does it have a different style?
Heel and Rand, are very similar to Boosters and both Slip lasted.
These however are not as aggressively downturned as boosters.
They do have a tps insert under the toe area which can feel awkward to some (it did for me), designed to enhance performance.