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Description

The steeper the better.

When the angle kicks back and the moves get hard, trust the Scarpa Instinct VS Climbing Shoe to see you through to the chains. The aggressive downturn and sensitive midsole allow you to toe-in on edges and solution pockets while the innovative Bi-Tension system provides maximum power in the big toe without excess pain. Plus, the single hook-and-loop strap makes on and off a breeze.

  • Durable Lorica uppers provide a snug fit that will not stretch out over time
  • Single floating hook-and-loop strap ensures a secure fit with easy on and off
  • The Instinct’s super-soft midsole enhances sensitivity and precision
  • Scarpa’s Bi-Tension system utilizes a reverse slingshot rand anchored under the toe-box for maximum power in the big toe without crushing your little piggies so you have the power to toe-down hard without the pain
  • Vibram XS Edge rubber resists distortion and performs consistently on the hardest edge moves in hot and cold weather
  • The rubber toe-patch improves toe-scums, hooks, and bicycles

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Review Summary
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Scarpa Instinct VS Climbing Shoe - Vibram XS Edge

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Here's what others have to say...

5 5

Long Form Review

Check our writeup on the Scarpa Instict VS here:

http://blistergearreview.com/gear-reviews/scarpa-instinct-vs

5 5

Rock Star Shoe!

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
  • Fit: True to size

This is my go to shoe for steep sport routes, bouldering and even moderate trad routes. I have used this shoe extensively for the past year and it's durability, quality and fit are unrivaled. I size up a half size and can wear it all day comfortably. The fit is not compromised and the super sticky Vibram XS Edge rubber is confidence inspiring.

5 5

Always in my Pack!

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
  • Fit: True to size

The Instinct VS performs amazingly on steep terrain but is also great for all angles of sport climbing or bouldering that I've tested it on. If I only had to put one pair of climbing shoes in my pack, I would choose the VS for its top-notch, reliable performance on any type of terrain as well as for its fit, versatility and durability. I downsize the same amountwith these as I do for most other Scarpa climbing shoes, so they seem true to size for Scarpa.

when are you getting in size 45?

Posted on

when are you getting in size 45?

Responded on

Hey Rob,

Looks like we should hopefully be getting these restocked around the first or second week of May so long as they get shipped on time.

5 5

Initial impressions

  • Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions
  • Fit: Runs small

I've used these a bit, just trying to get them broken in. I've noticed that they're quite tight - but in a good way. My toes don't get cramped side to side, the toe box is pretty wide compared to Evolv and LaSportiva shoes that I've worn in the past. The heal is pretty good, but there's a tiny bit of dead space on the sides making it feel only the slightest bit unstable when heal hooking on the side compared to the back. I wear a size 8-8.5 US and went with a 40 Euro (7.5 US according to size charts), and would probably have gone down one half size if I wanted them to be really tight but they seem good how they are (could wear them out of the box for about 2 or 3 boulder problems, max ~ 10 minutes). On a scale of 1 to 10 for downturnedness, they're probably a 8--I don't know why it says Moderate because they're more downturned than my Evolv Predators which are supposedly very downturned. I would also note that out of the box the midsole is not very soft--they're more of a stiff edging shoe now, but we'll see if they soften up and become more sensitive. One thing I noticed about the reverse slingshot rand was the fact that it drives power to your toes. I could feel my calves initiating the push a bit more than other shoes without this construction, and it really felt like I had a stronger push from my toes. Overall impressions is that they're a great shoe, can't wait to get them broken in!

5 5

Nailed it on the heel design!

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
  • Fit: Runs small

I spent the last month rocking these shoes in climbing areas all across Spain. From the steep limestone in Rodellar to the squeezy heel-hooking sandstone of Albarracin and even on the granite eggs of La Pedriza these shoes performed incredibly well right out of the box. I have a really skinny foot and heel and really appreciate the single velcro strap on these slipperesque shoes. Also, the solid rubber on the heel (as opposed to the usual small patch of fabric that most agressive shoes have on the sides of the heels) makes for precision heel-hooking. I sized them down 1.5 euro sizes smaller than my street shoes and they're super-snug. I can wear them between bouldering burns, but have to take them off after a long route.

4 5

Good Shoe, not the stickiest rubber

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

I bought these intending to use them as all-around shoes, which in retrospect was probably a mistake. For edging, these are as good as anything I've used, and the rubber over the toes seems pretty nice for hand-size cracks. The main problem I have with these shoes is that, compared to my other shoes (Anasazi Mocs) the rubber is noticeably less sticky; my feet slide off of smears that would be totally solid with stealth c4 rubber. I suppose these shoes may be really great for hard, overhanging bouldering and sport routes, and maybe the slippery rubber trades off for better edge life, but I don't recommend this shoe for any climb that demands secure smearing. I've talked to other people who have the same experience.

I have a wide forefoot and the fit in these shoes seems pretty perfect. My street shoe is size 10, the 42s fit me with a snug toe curl.

Responded on

I hear your point. For some reason the Vibram XS Edge on my La Sportiva Katana Lace's is really smooth, slides off everything - especially overhangs, and is constantly full of chalk which sticks to it. 5.10 rubber is definitely stickier by comparison. However, I have found the XS Edge rubber on my Scarpa Instinct VS shoes to be very sticky. It may have something to do with the thickness of the rubber. I was pretty discouraged with the rubber on the Katana, but if Alex Honnald uses XS edge (i.e. La Sportiva Miura and TC pro) to free solo several thousand foot walls, it's got to be trustworthy.

Responded on

Vibram's XS Edge is a stiffer, more durable rubber than their Grip, or FiveTen's Stealth rubbers. More aggressive shoes like Scarpa's Mago & Stix, and La Sportiva's Testarossa & Solution utilize Vibram Grip2. More technical, edging shoes such as Scarpa's Boostic & Instincts, and La Sportiva's Miuras & Katanas use XS Edge. This is because it is stiffer and holds up better on smaller holds.

I have noticed though, with time and use that Edge will almost become harder or slick, losing its stickiness. This results on the shoe slipping off sloppy holds. Where as Grip2 becomes really soft and I wear a hole though it, or it starts cheesegrating off the sole. So either rubber has it's purpose, and both have draw backs.

5 5

Instinct VS a high performer

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
  • Fit: Runs small

The Instinct VS is a very snug fitting slipper with a huge amount of sensitivity. Over time it molds to the shape of your foot and to your toes. The Velcro strap solves the problem of your heal lifting on hard heel hooks and keeps the shoe feeling tight while having worn them for a long period of time. This shoe is a great all around shoe for sport climbing and bouldering.

I wear the Scarpa Vapor V in size 40 and...

Posted on

I wear the Scarpa Vapor V in size 40 and it fits perfectly, do these fit similarly or do they run big/small?

Best Answer Responded on

I wear both the Vapor V and the Instinct VS in a 40 and I'd recommend you get the same size. The Instinct is a touch wider in my opinion but this actually works better for my foot.

5 5

Great low volume shoe

I am generally a fan of scarpa, the fit on the pairs I have had give a nice snug fit without having to crunch and curl my toes too severely to keep the heel snug. The design of the shoe is comparable to sportiva's solutions and performs just as well, with a shallower heel pocket which fits my foot shape much better (had similar problems with anasazi w/baggy heel). I was able to go a half size up from my normal fit and they are extremely comfy and snug now that they are broken in. Solid stickiness, great toe hooking, the strap cinches down that tiny bit of space for difficult climbs but the fit is so perfect I can easily climb through v4 boulder problems without bothering. I also prefer this shoe to the Boostic which i have also tried. Highly recommend, especially for people who like solutions but have issues w/the depth of the heel pocket.

Responded on

I have a booster 39.5
i have a mago 39.5
should buy some instinct vs size ????
I usually street shoes 41 eu,

you are how much size reduction?

Responded on

My boostics were a half size smaller than my instinct vs. Im not sure how comparable the booster is with the boostic which is the reboot of the booster, as I have never had a pair of the boosters but I would recommend a 40 in the instinct for you. My sizing is also a full size down from street, and if you found a size and a half drop tolerable than that would probably do the trick. Good Luck! Post some reviews of the shoe if you get it, I really recommend it and would like to see some more feedback so people are comfortable ordering it.