Quick-on, quick-off, quick-up.
- Unlined uppers will stretch about a full size
- Down-turned toe for better performance on overhanging routes
- Slip on design ideal for bouldering
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Share your thoughts
- Gender: Male
- Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
I love Italian climbing shoes!
Out of the box these things were awful... I wear a street size 10.5-11 US mens and got these in a 9.5. I had owned a pair of "Boostics," also from Scarpa, and I thought the similar sizing to be a mistake at first...
However, after a few sessions they stretched and are perfect now!
I have been developing a lot of boulder problems in the Western Sierra and they are holding up on the VERY sharp granite. I had the pleasure of jamming my feet into a crack yesterday and they performed well. They stick to micro-edges, smear comfortably, and have been great holding up to the abuse that developing causes.
In situations where moss wasn't cleaned before climbing newer routes, they still stuck to holds and safely got me to the top. THIS IS CURRENTLY MY GO TO SHOE ON THE MARKET.
Also, they are SUPER comfortable now... Took a little while, but they're grrrrreat!
I will resole and order again from Scarpa as they remain one of my favorites. I say this shoe stands at the tip-top with the Sportiva Testerossa etc!
How is the sizing compared to the Mago? Should I get these in the exact same size or up/down?
I don't know if this helps but I ordered one size lower than my street shoe size and they are wonderful-not too tight, not too loose and sloppy.
- Gender: Male
- Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
I have had these shoes for a little over a year now. I prefer to really put a product through the loops before offering my opinion. And this is just that, my opinion. I will start at the front and work my way back. (good news first)
The front section of these shoes are amazing. The rubber was always top notch, from frigid January boulder days to the warmer months and ample time spent at the gym. Everything from edging to toe hooks was phenomenal. The only down side to the shoes was the rubber section on the toes. After a day or two of projecting some overhanging problems and really digging with the toe hooks the rubber started to separate. Weird enough it didn't ever seem to hinder the usefulness of the shoe. After a year the front section could use a re-sole. But I would give it 3-4 stars for durability minus the upper toe section. I tend to drag my feet a bit when flagging out and my big toe is poking out on both shoes. (this is after a year of hard climging indoor and outdoors)
The in and out action was easy to get used to and they wore in excellent. After a couple weeks or less the leather really formed to my feet. The elastic section still holds firm after a lot of wear.
The only downside to these shoes is a loose heel section. I have spoken with several others that use these shoes and the consensus is the same. Amazing front, poor execution in the heel. They are not the best for aggressive heel hooks and if you really crank on them they tend to slip. Keep in mind I wear my shoes VERY aggressive and even sizing down a half size more than I normally do (in other scarpa's.) I do love these shoes though overall. If and when scarpa makes a shoe with a smaller heel section they will be on my list.
- Gender: Male
- Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
I had the pleasure of living in Yosemite over the summer and found myself using these as my main bouldering shoe. My first impression of these shoes was not great, however. I decided on a 42.5 since I size my muiras the same way, and holy sh*t these things were tight out of the box. I couldnt stand to wear them for more than five or ten minutes at a time. That being said, the uppers are unlined leather, and after a while they stretched quite a bit and now provide an aggressive, yet comfortable fit. (though sizing aggressively means losing out on comfort no matter what shoe you wear)
As far as performance goes, the instincts dose not disappoint. Theyre very, very sensitive and edge almost too well. Ive also found that the added bit of rubber on the toe makes these shoes decent for short bouts of crack climbing, even with your toes curled up in a down turned toe box. I will say that these shoes arent entirely stiff enough for me, which is why I prefer Muiras, but I do think that the soles on these out perform the soles on my Muiras (XS grip2 vs. XS edge). I can stand on the smallest of edges comfortably, smear slabs all day, and even get after the cracks in these, but where they REALLY excel is overhanging sport routes. They just get the job done. The only downside, other than being incredibly tight out of the box, is that the heel does not work for hooking AT ALL. Granted, an experienced climber will make due without, but the heel does little to ease your mind when you find yourself in that mandatory heel-hook situation.
Bottom line: Great aggressive slipper. Works well for bouldering and sport, excels at overhangs, stymied by heek-hooks.