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Lightweight InsulationLightweight Insulation

Description

Trust your Instincts on this one.

If you are the type of climber who requires your feet to act more like another set of hands, evolve into a pair of Scarpa Instinct Climbing Shoes, and let the transformation begin. The Instinct’s aggressive shape and sensitive midsole sucks to your foot like a vacuum so you can push, pull, squeeze, hook, and grab your way to the top of the most perplexing problems. Sure it’s also a favorite of testers at Rock&Ice and Climbing, but you don’t have to take their word for it. Slip in and let the crushing commence.

  • Suede upper and full-lace closure conform to the shape of your foot
  • The Instinct’s super-soft midsole enhances sensitivity and precision
  • Scarpa’s Bi-Tension system utilizes a reverse slingshot rand anchored under the toe-box for maximum power in the big toe without crushing your little piggies so you have the power to toe-down hard without the pain
  • Vibram XS Edge rubber resists distortion and performs consistently on the hardest edge moves in hot and cold weather
  • The rubber toe-patch improves toe-scums, hooks, and bicycles

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Scarpa Instinct Climbing Shoe -XS Edge

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Here's what others have to say...

5 5

Great Lace-Up Performer

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
  • Fit: True to size

I use these mainly on technical, aggressive face climbs from vertical to slightly overhanging that require precision footwork on small holds, along with shoe sensitivity. They are comfortable, as other reviewers note, but not sloppy. Often it's a toss-up between these and the Boostics on the same terrain, so I'll just alternate which shoe I wear from climb to climb. For a project, I'll test the route in both shoes and then decide which shoes feel best for the route in question. To me, the Instinct Lace seems a touch more sensitive than the Boostic, while the Boostic seems slightly stiffer. Both aspects have advantages.

5 5

Powerful, precise shoe

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
  • Fit: True to size

I graduated to the Instincts after using the lace up Vapors for about a year. The shoe shines in a variety of settings. It is stiff enough for hard redpoints on overhangs, but still offers enough sensitivity that you can "feel" around with your feet. These are my go-to shoe for redpoints, onsights, and flash attempts.

The fit is surprisingly comfortable for an aggressive shoe. I wear 42 to 42.5 in street shoes and the Instincts feel great at 41. There is a knuckle box (same idea as Evolv's Love Bump) in the toe that provides leverage without pain. I have wider feet and expected to suffer in these shoes, but they have been surprisingly comfortable.

Overall a great shoe for anyone looking to up their game.

5 5

Highly Recommended

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
  • Fit: Runs large

Fit: I'd go a half or full size down from your street shoe size. I went a half size and there is still a bit of bagginess in the heel but if I go any smaller my toes will likely fall off. The toe box is relatively wide, not recommended for people with narrow feet. The leather will stretch a bit to fit your feet nicely and also dies them bright red.
Performance: Great for overhung and excellent at edging. Makes for an excellent bouldering shoe. The rubber is not as sticky as the discontinued Vibram XS Grip2 version that is still available in some sizes (as of October 2013) but it is still superior than most rubber I have ever seen except may be Five Ten rubber.

5 5

Best Shoe I Have Ever Owned

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

The Instinct Lace Up is my go to shoe. It fits a wider foot and is incredibly sensitive while being stiff enough for the toughest edging I have had to do. I use these shoes for anything that is at my limit including extremely long days. One of the best features of these shoes is that they perform really well without having to fit them too tight. They are amazing don't think twice about them! If they seem wide for your foot, try out the Vapor Laceups. They are similar but made for those with less wide feet.

5 5

All-TIme Great Shoe

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
  • Fit: Runs large

I've been climbing for over 20 years. Bouldering, sport climbing, "trad climbing," crack climbing, big walls, alpine. These shoes are slightly aggressive, but not so aggressive that you feel like your just climbing on the tips of your toes. They do everything well, and are quite comfortable for me, but still I would not reach for these if I were just going crack climbing for the weekend.

I wear a size 8.5 to 9 US in most street shoes (8.5 in Five Ten approach shoes), and I wear a 40.5 in the Instinct. I could easily go a 1/2 size smaller, which would probably make the heel fit a little better, but I prefer to be comfortable. The heel still works great for me, but there is a tiny empty spot that does get a little bigger over time.

I've had three pairs in a row of these, and I'll be getting more. Hopefully the slipper version as well, if they ever go on sale.

4 5

SWEET!

  • Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions
  • Fit: True to size

So far so good, had them for about a week now. First impression is that they are a Miura VS with a Toe Cap :) which is awesome! Super tight, still not even close to being broken in but they edge like champions.
There is an audible "squish" as you get them on....love the fit, no dead space.

I wear a 37.5 in the miura VS and a 38 in these. My street shoe is a 7.5

Adding to the review... been climbing in them for almost a year now? My toes still aren't totally happy with the toe box, they definitely make my toes bleed after super long sessions. All in all, my next pair will be another pair of Miura VS.

4 5

Great steep sport/crack shoe

  • Gender: Male
  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I have had these shoes for a few months and they have yet to disappoint me. They grip sandstone and granite well and the tongue has just enough padding to make crack climbing pleasant.

I did need to return my first pair of these shoes when the rubber toecap delaminated in the first week while jamming my toe in a roof crack. The next pair dominated the same route without any issue. Also be aware that for the first few days climbing these the dye will run and your feet will be fire engine red.