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Description

Break free from gravity.

The hardest routes call for a whole different level of aggression, which is why Scarpa created the Instinct Climbing Shoe. Thanks to a down-turned toe, full-length lacing, and seriously sticky Vibram XS Grip2 rubber, this shoe can easily handle the footwork as long as you can bear down on half-pad crimpers.
  • Ultra-aggressive down-turned toe for performance on the steepest routes
  • Discontinued Vibram XS Grip2 rubber for excellent friction on all types of rock
  • Full-length laces for a precision fit
  • Unlined uppers will stretch about a half size

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Review Summary
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Scarpa Instinct Climbing Shoe - Discontinued Vibram XS Grip2

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Here's what others have to say...

5 5

Great shoe

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
  • Fit: True to size

I have been climbing in this shoe for months. I am an instructor at a climbing gym and put at least 5 hours of climbing on this shoe per week. The vibram rubber is excellent, in the past 5 months I have had this shoe, I am still climbing in the original rubber.

In addition,this shoe compares well to the Evolv Shaman or La Sportiva Muira. It is very aggressive and solid on overhanging routes, dime edges and bouldering.

My main complaint is the heel cup. It is a bit loose for the type of shoe so I do not have 100% confidence when heel hooking.

Still, out of all the shoes I have worn throughout the year, these are hands down my favorite.

Sizing: I wear a 9.5 street shoe and wear a size 40 in the instinct (7.5). The leather upper stretches enough to make it work; however, I could probably get away with an 8. That have a bit of a break in period so just be prepared that they are not going to feel good for a few sessions.

5 5

Favorite Shoe

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Having tried shoes from 5.10, MadRock, La Sportiva and and Scarpa these shoes have proven to be my favorite. Having a narrow foot, it has been hard to find a shoe which heel hooks well without buying them a full size smaller than is necessary. These edge well, and have good padding on the sides making foot jams not terribly painful. Bouldering and sport climbing, these are the best I have tried.

Favorite Shoe
5 5

Climbs like the 5.10 Dragon shoe :)

This shoe has surpassed many of my shoes over the years. I love the suction of the heal, very conformed fit to the heal and tendon. The shoe is narrow when breaking in and I am a wide footed person... though it does not hurt to wear. The edging is superb also with a aggressive tip on par with the La Sportiva Solution shoe. Great shoe for both steep and slab sport climbs as well steep boulder problems. The toe hooking rubber is also an aggressive design, grabbing the rock like a claw :)

Responded on

I wear a 39 in Sportiva Cobras, but they are slightly too tight. If I were to get these Scarpas, would 40.5 be realistic? I wear size 9.5 street shoe.

When will you guys be getting more sizes?!...

Posted on

When will you guys be getting more sizes?! I wear a 37.5 in the miura VS and that was tightest I could get on my foot, anyone have experience sizing the instinct relative to a miura vs?

Responded on

can you comment at all on the heal of the shoe relative to the miura VS? No body in town carries much... and what they do carry, they have limited sizes.

Responded on

In general most downsize 0.5 to 1.5 from their street shoe. My guess is for the Instinct you'll be in a bigger size than 37.5

5 5

Super high end shoe

  • Gender: Male
  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

This shoe got an Editor's Choice pick of the year by Climbing Magazine a year or two ago. For a high performance shoe they are very good. I've been climbing since the 1970s. I currently own four pair of climbing shoes. I give the Scarpa Instinct Five stars.

Unanswered Question

Anybody know how much these things stretch?...

Posted on

Anybody know how much these things stretch? Scarpa's fit my feet perfectly and I am rocking a 43 in the Vapor Vs, comfortably.

How do these compare in size to the La...

Posted on

How do these compare in size to the La Sportiva Miura? I am a mens 40 (US7.5) in most Sportiva shoes.

Responded on

You'll want to get these about 1-2 sizes down from your Street shoe size. Not sure how that compares to Sportiva sizing. In general the Instinct will be more sensitive/softer than the Miura, and it's a great all around shoe that favors more overhanging climbing

Responded on

to me they are 1 size to a half size smaller than sportiva miuras and solutions.

I bought my Scarpa Instinct's a bit to...

Posted on

I bought my Scarpa Instinct's a bit to tight. Any way to strech them out some besides wearing them in pain.
Thank you

Responded on

No, but you could return them if you haven't worn them out climbing.

Best Answer Responded on

As long as they are these Instincts, and not the Instinct slippers, take a really hot shower with them on and then leave them on until they dry. Take a shower, then put a movie in and kick your feet up. Only works with leather/suede shoes. Will not work with synthetic!!!

Responded on

what about the scarpa booster shoe

Responded on

If you haven't figured out how to stretch your leather you might want to try this. Works really well and you can find in on Ebay for about $2.
http://www.shoestation.com/ralyn-shoe-stretch-17380/paaaaapfchppchag/product