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Strap into the Scarpa Feroce Climbing Shoe when you need a high-performance boot that can handle steep overhangs, thin cracks, dime edges, and desperate smears with equal fervor. The downturned, moderately asymmetrical last features a thin Vibram XS Grip sole for high sensitivity, and a stiff midsole for jamming and edging performance. A rubber rail on the back of the heel helps grab lips and edges, while the rubber-covered forefoot grabs toe hooks on technical boulder problems.
Bottom Line: Get Feroce-ious on your big project in this shoe.
btw, rockette (womens) corresponds with the booster shoe (mens). they are both more aggressive and downturned than the feroce, which are supposed to be closer to all-day shoes, depending on how you've fitted them for your feet.
The Rockettes have a wider toe box and are more downturned and asymmetrical than the Feroce. The heel is also narrower, since the Rockettes are designed specifically for women. There is a small bump inside the Feroces that your toes sit on that takes a bit of getting used to. I think that bump makes the toe area feel smaller.
I wear a 37 in Rockettes and had to size down to a 36.5 in Feroces in order to get the heel to fit. I have wide feet and I think the Rockettes fit better. I wear street size 6.5 or 7 and wear 35 in Sportiva Miuras, if that helps.
I demoed a ton of shoes from lots of different vendors at a climbing festival, and this was by far the best. It really hugs your foot and arch without digging into your achilles tendon (like I find the scarpa booster does). There is a little stiffening plate in the toe that helps with edging but it doesn't sacrifice feel for the rock. The heel hook rail doesn't do much as far as I can tell but it doesn't detract either. I'm a big fan.
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I use these primarily for sport and bouldering. Everything you have read about the performance is probably true. The bubble under your toe allows for wonderful articulation of your toes and all around this shoe is built extremely well. My contribution is this: When i first bought these around 3-5 months ago, i quite literally had to use coco butter the first time i put them on because they were so stiff. Like any shoe they were painful for quite awhile before wearing in. Now, I am here in China and these shoes have stretched significantly to the point where they still fit... but a bit to nicely. I do not have the precise to power i need in these shoes and can pretty much wear them all day even when cranked down. fortunately i have another pair (or 2 :P ) back home and will be careful to use those sparingly OR not to keep the pair i have used heavily for easier routes and use my new pair for hard routes to keep them tight.
so i was looking for a next shoe, having come from a more comfortable all-day evolv demorto shoe. being primarily a boulder-er, i was looking for a slightly more aggressive shoe, but not ready for a slip-on or a really really down-turned shoe. from the reviews here, it turned out the feroce was an excellent choice. however, there was nowhere to try it on since none of the places in the SF bay area carried this shoe. why is that??? REI had the veloce and technos. no offense, but REI fremont has nothing. BUT after i read some of the reviews here and tried to do an educated guess (totally a shot in the dark, actually) for what size would fit me in these shoes, i ordered a 41.5 (even though the techno 42's were perfect for my feet - slightly cramped for brand new shoes of course). just like the techno's, however, the 41.5 feroce's would not allow my heel to get into the shoe, no matter how much i tried. i measured them side-by-side (at REI) and they were near identical. of course the shapes varied a bit and shape too, but the sizing is pretty much the same.
i dont know if i should say "dont listen to the reviews on sizing". but if you need an estimate, please try on the other scarpa shoes. they arent going to be far off.
on to the actual shoe. it's awesome because it's not a flat board your toes/ball step on. the toes curl under the box and gives you more of a feel of the edges of the shoe. it actually locks it in place. i know for my previous shoes, they would eventually shift over to the outside over time, which is annoying. the three velcro straps keep everything in very well and snuggly. these are just awesome shoes!
oh i should probably add that these are not very aggressive as the pictures online show. when i got them, i thought to myself, these look flat. but they're not, side-by-side with my day-long shoes. but not enough to wear them out after 30 mins of bouldering.
i'll write more once i get a really good feel for them!
i should write a quick follow-up. the sizing was perfect - it's snug and not too small. i still have to take them off once in a while, but i can basically keep them on for about an hour and then i'd have to take them off between climbs. all in all, the solid sole shape, toe box, velcro system, and slightly curled shape make this a shoe a winning combo.
Anyone have ideas on sizing for these? I'm a 10 street, and a 41 in Muira VS, but they super tight.. The rep said to size them flat footed but I don't quite get it. Thanks!
What the rep meant by that was that the Miura VS is the kind of shoe that your toes curl up in the end of and the Feroce isn't. You'd probably wear a longer shoe in the Feroce because your toes will be out straight. The most important thing is to try them on, so I'd do one of two things: one option is to order two or three pairs if you can front the money, then send the ones that don't fit back. I'd order a 41, 42, and maybe a 41.5. The other option is to find a store that carries them and try them on there, then order them here.
If you're buying them online and have owned other Scarpas before, make sure you get them at least a half size smaller than you did w the boosters or magos (the only other two I've had). Maybe even a full size. I was a 42.5 with those two shoes but I'm a 41.5 in these. Great shoe though =)
I have the morton toes and the Feroce. It is a great shoe, but the pain is almost unbareable at first. I just take them off between routs which inables me to climb in them all day. After a few months the seemed to either streach out a little or my toes have conformed to the shape of the shoe. The shoes make you climb better so it may be worth the pain.
No one makes a morton type shoe. The majority are going to just jam all together anyway. All of the aggressive ones will not aid your mortons, a relaxed neutral shoe will be you better bet.
This is a great shoe for overhanging rock. If you can't or don't want to wear a severely downturned shoe due to discomfort or whatever, this is the ticket. The overall last is flat to slightly downturned, but there the sole has a noticeable downturn just at the big toe. This makes the shoe perform incredibly well when toed-in on tiny edges and pockets on overhanging terrain.The downsides? These are extremely painful to wear on slabs. Vertical rock is bearable. Keep these on steep stuff where they belong. Also, the curvature and stiffness of the sole makes it difficult to smear on sloping footholds, overhanging or not.The shoe does not stretch in length at all thanks to the generous rand coverage over the toes. Heel and toe hooking performance is excellent.The Vibram XS rubber is, IMO, better than either 5.10's Stealth of Evolv's Trax. It's stickier, but may be less durable.Perfect bouldering shoe, or sport climbing shoe for places like the Red River Gorge or Rumney (where the footholds tend to be positive).
Bought these shoes yesterday at a local shop and headed to the gym for some light climbing to break them in. Less than three hours later the rubber rand on the posterior portion of the toe cap has started peeling. Possibly a warrenty issue and will see about getting a new pair today.
Worked wonders on tiny holds, comfortable in the cracks, still a little unsure on the heel for hooking. The three velcro closure puts a tight and snug fit around your foot. A lace up feel with velcro ease. I can't wait to finish breaking them in and really get a feel for them.
4.5 stars, 5 if my toe cap is a warrenty issue that gets fixed. Deffinatly recommended.
How much will these stretch in length? I am torn between a 41 and 41.5. Both fit tight but the 41 is extremely tight. This is my first pair of sport shoes and I am not sure how tight to go. I wear a 42.5 in the techno sized for comfort.
How does the Feroce compare to the Booster? I have a wide foot so which would fit better? I climb alot of granit so which shoe preforms the best? if you had your choice which would you get
The Booster is a fair bit more aggressive than the Feroce, but the Feroce will be more accommodating of a wide foot. If you're doing a lot of really technical steep stuff, get the Booster, otherwise get the Feroce. The rock you're on doesn't really matter.
Is there somebody who can compare the Sportiva Katana or Sportiva Testarossa to these shoes?, how do they fit?, is there a difference in sizing?, thanks!
Between those two shoes there is not really a comparison. However, if you combined the two of those you might get the Feroce. The Testerossa is too downturned and has a tighter toe-box and the Katana is the opposite, not as downturned and a bigger toe-box. The Miura might be more of a comparison. As far as fit goes i would shoot for a 1/2 size bigger if you wear climbing shoes tight. I wear a 43 Katana and Miura and a 44 in Feroce.
These shoes are awesome for both. I demoed them at a climbing festival recently and loved them. They're aggressive enough to crank hard, but comfy enough to use for the whole day. I'd say go for it. For comparison if you want it, some equivalent shoes in other brands would be the Five Ten Jet 7 (also a fantastic shoe and the one I currently climb in), the La Sportiva Miura VS, or the Evolv Pontas. I recommend them in that order, with the Feroce (this one) coming in after the Miura.
I demoed a ton of shoes from lots of different vendors at a climbing festival, and this was by far the best. It really hugs your foot and arch without more...
I use these primarily for sport and bouldering. Everything you have read about the performance is probably true. The bubble under your toe allows for more...
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