The Endurance gets you through the coldest mountain storms.
Laugh in the face of savage sub-zero temperatures and scoff at vicious white-outs thanks to the supreme warmth of the Rab Men’s Neutrino Endurance Down Jacket. An outer shell of Pertex Endurance fabric wards off the weather while 800-fill hydrophobic goose down holds in vital warmth without packing out thanks to a stitch-through baffle construction. Despite it's massive warmth and medium-length cut, this packable jacket stuffs down small inside the included stuff sack so your already-bursting expedition pack won't blow a seam.
- Shape the wired peak of the down-filled hood to keep the sun, whipping wind, and snow out of your face
- An internal down-filled baffle behind the main zipper blocks cold at the chest
- Adjustable hook-and-loop cuffs cinch securely around your leather gloves, and a hem drawcord locks out deep snow
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Share your thoughts
My impressions of this jacket Size Large
- Familiarity: I've used it several times
- Fit: True to size
I haven't had the jacket that long although I have used it in a variety of conditions so far. I live in WA pacific NW and have seen weather with this jacket ranging from the mid 40's and raining to around 10 degrees.
The jacket has worked as I would expect it to keeping me very warm even when the temps dipped to almost single digits. I bought this jacket after reading some fairly good reviews and am very happy with my purchase so far.
Sizing is consistant and fit is on the athletic side which works for me as I am 5'10" 195lbs Chest is 45" waist is 33" so I don't wear more than a base layer underneith and have to cynch the bottom quite a bit, might have been better off with an XL, but the waist ends up being wayyy to big...
All and all the jacket is light and very warm extremely nice jacket!!
Finally-the perfect down jacket.
- Familiarity: I've used it several times
- Fit: True to size
I've been looking for the perfect down jacket for a while. I live in the PNW and its usually wet around here so having the Pertex Endurance fabric is a nice bonus. Also, I'm very thin and tend to run cold and on top of that I continue to climb even in the winter months. This jacket has finally fit the bill. I first tried the Marmot Ama Dablam. It had a great fit, but there wasn't enough down to keep me warm. I then tried the Marmot Greenland. That jacket was too warm. I then tried the First Ascent downlight jacket which I tried to love, but it wasn't very weather resistant and and didn't fit right over my mountaineering layers. This jacket finally felt right. Perfect amount of insulation to keep me warm (more down in the body than in the arms) but not enough to make me start sweating like crazy. Additionally, the hood is great and the collar covers high to seal out the wind and cold. For reference, I am 6', 135 lbs. and bought a medium. This fits fits easily over my winter mountaineering layers (base layer, 100-200 weight fleece, light synthetic jacket [atom lt], and a hard/softshell). If you're looking for a warm, weather resistant down jacket, this a great buy!
Just frikkin awesome.
- Gender: Male
- Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
- Fit: True to size
My only complaint is the lack of inside pockets. There only one inside pocket which will stash small items and gloves but I've grown to expect a jacket of this warmth to hold a water bottle. Otherwise, just an amazing amazing jacket for the price that will keep you warm to around 0F. Fits true to size. I'm 5'8, 160 pounds with a 40 inch chest and medium fits just right. The Pertex Endurance will shed light precipitation. It is not as breathable as high quality shells, but this is not a jacket designed for high aerobic activity. I'd prefer if the fabric were Pertex Shield + (far more breathable and waterproof), but this would probably add a lot of cost to the price. Rab's helmet-compatible hoods are right up there with Montane and First Ascent hoods. They are just designed for mountaineers.
I am 5'5" and about 140lbs. My...
I am 5'5" and about 140lbs. My chest is about 37" and I have a 29" waist. I'm looking to use this jacket as an outer layer over a baselayer, midlayer and softshell for added warmth when I stop climbing. Do you think I should go for a Small or Medium?
Thanks in advance.
Well, you would probably fit best in a size Small but with all those layers underneath you might be better off with a size Medium. Since it sound like you know about what layers you are going to be putting on under this jacket, maybe get a measurement while wearing all the pieces and see how close you are to the 40" chest measurement for a Medium.
with the small and all those layers, i would agree with wayne. i think you stand a good chance of have restricted movement wearing those layers with the jacket zipped up. good news is that whichever size you buy from BC, you can try it on and easily exchange if it doess't fit correctly.
I am wondering if some of you can...
I am wondering if some of you can give some size advice. I am smallish male, 5'5" and 120 pounds. I intend to use this jacket over a couple of layer. My chest is about 34 inches, waist 28 inches. Should I opt for S or XS?
I am light-built; I often buy XS women's for a nice fit, like my Arcteryx Alpha light is XS Women and it gives a snug fit. I am looking to wear the Neutrino over my existing layers (including the hardshell) when it gets very cold, or while belaying on waterfall ice, such use, so I am wondering whether XS Male would be fine or S is better. My primary use will be alpine/waterfall ice, so freedom of movement of arms is critical.
I think you're right on the borderline between a small and an extra small. I have both a medium and a large, and have also tried on a small (which I couldn't comfortably zip). Do you have broader shoulders, and what is your arm length? I would probably try a small first. You might not get a good city look, but it will work well for the other reasons: wearing your extra layers could up-size you, and you need unrestricted movement of your arms, which means you want perhaps slightly longer arms. It may be a little big, but that's how belay jackets should fit. If it's too big, take advantage of Backcountry's awesome return policy. :)
Starting in the Fall 2013 line of Rab...
Starting in the Fall 2013 line of Rab Neutrino Endurance jackets, Rab has started to use 'Hydrophobic Down' which is fluorocarbon-free. Does anyone know what this technology is? Is it like a Nikwax downproof that wears off over time or is it a permanent nanopolymer coating like Down-Tek which should last the life of the garment?
I've asked retailers and Rab itself about this new treatment and they're very tight-lipped about it. My conclusion, based mostly off conjecture and the internets, is that Rab is basically washing the already-available Nikwax Down Proof into their down in large quantities, probably under the supervision of Nikwax to make sure it's applied perfectly.
My reasoning for this is:
1) Rab hasn't marketed their hydrophobic down technology very much, unlike Patagonia with Encapsil, Sierra Designs with DriDown, Brooks Range with DownTek, etc. This tells me it isn't revolutionary, and certainly Nikwax Down Proof wash-in solution isn't really revolutionary or new at all.
2) On Rab's website, they now recommend cleaning jackets with the 1-2 punch of Nikwax Down Wash and then, "to maintain DWR", use Nikwax Down Proof solution.
3) On Rab's website for their new down, they say that their process is "far more effective and durable" than DIY wash-in products. Other down proofing technologies emphasize the permanence of their treatment, not the durability, implying that this treatment will eventually wear off. Especially since in #2 above, Rab recommends using Down Proof when cleaning the jacket.
4) The marketing speak for the new technologies mirrors Nikwax's Down Proof to a T, especially the emphasis on "fluorocarbon free".
TLDR; My conclusion with all of this is that they're using Nikwax Down Proof in an industrial wash-in process, likely meaning higher quality results than DIY wash-in, but ultimately it's little more than a DWR that will wear off over time.
Great down jacket
- Familiarity: I've used it several times
- Fit: True to size
I picked one of these up slightly used from a friend and I've almost replaced my Marmot Ama Dablam that I've had for three years with it. Feels nice, super insulated and warm. Packs down small into its stuff sack. I particularly like the longer torso cut for this one in comparison the the Ama Dablam. Also the Pertex feels a little more durable than the polyester shell on the Ama Dablam. However, I really appreciate the ability to stuff the Ama Dublam inside its own pocket which this one is not capable of.
Awesome jacket, big size
- Familiarity: I've used it several times
- Fit: Runs large
super warm, light jacket good for anything anyone would want to do unsupported/ in a nice lower trace alpine style. Had it two seasons belaying, summiting lower 48 peaks, and taking rest breaks while skiing. A medium was too big for 5'10 140, so ended up selling and getting a slightly less warm sweater and an 8000m parka which work well for my work but the Neutrino is missed. Hood, water-resistant fabric and super light warmth make it a no brainer, just watch the fit.
Will this jacket be good enough for 7000-7500...
Will this jacket be good enough for 7000-7500 metre peaks in the Himalayas?
I'd probably say no, I have the Neutrino Plus jacket which is the step up from this one with more down and box wall baffles to eliminate cold spots. I've personally taken my Neutrino Plus to -20 degree temps without strong winds and have been comfortable, however that was in Vermont, not Nepal. The Neutrino Endurance jacket has sewn through baffles, which in strong enough winds you will definately feel cold, which is a condition you'll probably encounter a lot of. I'd probably want to go to at least their Summit or even Batura jacket for the performace you're asking for, no sense in putting yourself at risk. Stay safe and I hope this helps.
Here is the aforementioned jackets from the Rab website:
While you're on Rab's website, you should probably also seriously consider the Expedition jacket. It's designed for where you're going. The Batura jacket is the next step down. There are days when even the Neutrino would be too much and you would need to layer down, but there is also the higher likelihood that there will be more times than not when not enough insulation in the right jacket will cost you your life. Always better to have too much than not enough. If you're using a guide service and they haven't given you a comprehensive gear list, ask them what they recommend for when and where you're going. Rab makes excellent gear, but the Neutrino jacket is certainly not your best choice in this case.
not quite warm enough. Had one before a trip to the Pamirs (7-7.5k m) but ended up replacing with a marmot 8000m before. If you were going fast and light it could be, but if you've got to ask you probably aren't doing anything where ounces trounce warmth and survival
Item # RAB0040
Rab Neutrino Endurance
Winter + Cold + Ice Climbing = Rab Neutrino Endurance Down Jacket
Really warm jacket.
Double zipper its really helpful with belaying
The coldest weather I've worn this jacket is -10 degrees and it performed perfectly well. Very warm, very comfy and packs down very small.
- Gender: Male
This jacket is awesome. I'm 5'10" 160 with long arms and was having a hard time deciding on sizing. I ended up ordering a medium and a large with intent on keeping best fit. The medium was perfect with enough room for extra layers and the sleeves were plenty long enough for my long reach. The large was drooping over my shoulders and the arms were way too long, way too sloppy of a fit.
Great Midweight Puffy that's Lightweight
I love this jacket. It's very warm and very light. It compresses down small and lofts up huge. The down is firm in each baffle; it feels like it's stuffed full, almost squishy. With a base layer in this jacket, you will be warm sitting around camp well into the teens or lower.
Its biggest competitor, the Feathered Friends Hooded Helios, has the same amount of down but weighs 4-5 oz. less. However, for those extra few ounces in this jacket, you get more durable fabric, water resistant zippers, velcro adjustments in the hood and wrists, zippered hand warmer pockets instead of elastic, full waist adjustments with drawcord instead of elastic, drop tail that covers your butt to make you warmer, a fully adjustable hood with wire brim and velcro stays instead of just one adjustment, plus a hood that covers more of your face and provides more insulation. Depending on your application, this makes the Rab Neutrino a more well rounded and fully-featured jacket. And also the reasons why I chose it over the Hooded Helios.
For fit, I'm 5'10" and 200lbs with an athletic frame (33" waist, 44" chest, 35" arms, wide shoulders), and the large fits me perfectly. I have just enough room to put a couple more layers without compressing the down. The jacket also completely covers my butt, which is really nice when you're at a cold belay.
For weight, it's advertised at 22oz, but my size large weighs exactly 21 ounces. The stuff sack it comes with weighs .75 oz., in case you care.
Hard not to recommend this jacket. Great for pretty much anything outside of the greater ranges.
Quailty Piece of Gear
This jacket is top notch. The overall construction and design is excellent. I have yet to test this jacket to its fullest so I will speak mainly to fit.
My specs are as follows: 6'1", 185 with long arms and broad shoulders and 45" chest. Neary all of my gear is XL, as I always have trouble with the shoulders and arm length of my upper body garments if I go with the L.
So with that in mind I originally ordered the Rab in XL, thinking that I would have plenty of room with the jacket to layer underneath. Once I got my gear, it was apparent that the XL was simply too small. The fit in the shoulders even with a light base layer shirt was pretty tight and the arms would ride up. I tried the XL with an Atom LT XL hoody underneath and I felt like a human sardine, unable to move my arms freely. The fit in the waist and stomach area was really good, but I sent it back and got the XXL.
The XXL fit perfectly, a little big with just a light layer on, but with my Atom LT it was nearly perfect. The arms were right where they should be and I had plenty of freedom of movement in the shoulders and upper back. The waist was a bit big and a little boxy looking, but that is a problem I have with nearly all my jackets given my V shape upper body. All in, the fit was exactly what I wanted in the XXL since I plan on using this primarily to layer over the Atom and a few other lighter layers when it is really cold out.
I then put the Atom LT on with the Endurance Neuitrino and topped it off with my Alpha SV shell and it was like a custom fitted winter layering system. I was able to even add the Atom SV to the mix and while the fit was a bit snug, it worked pretty well, not that I will need that many mid layers normally.
My overall take away is that the Rab jackets run 1/2 to a full size small relative to US sizing depending on your overall body type, so make sure you size up if you are at the limit of the stated sizing measurements and/or have broad shoulders/long arms.
Any size recommendations for 5'6" 38ish...
Any size recommendations for 5'6" 38ish chest, ~140 pounds? I'm thinking small, but I wish they gave size range for the chest, rather than just a single number.
your going to want to go with the medium on this jacket. The size chart indicates an exact measurement. Sleeve length is an inch difference between small and medium and the length should only be an inch difference as well. I will double check the exact torso lengths and update this post.
I'm most concerned with the chest measurement. You think that being a 38 bumps me up to a medium, which I might be swimming in otherwise? Like I said, I wear a small for about 90% of my gear. And this seems like a generously cut garment, not slim fit.
if you have a 38 inch chest, the small will be tight on you in the chest area. You might look at something from mountain hardware like MHW2270 or Millet like mil0244 which are both cut for a 38 in chest in the small.
So, one clarification on size chart, Geoff. The sizing chart is the person's measurements or the jackets? I'm almost certain it is the person and not the jacket, right?
you are correct, it is the body measurement. The easiest way to think about it is like this, Size Small is cut for a person with a 36-37 in chest, Medium=38-40 in chest, large=41-43 in chest and XL=44-46 in chest.
For anyone wondering, I was able to try a small and a medium. The small is a bit too snug in the chest, even with not much on underneath. I would say RAB runs a bit smaller than Patagonia and the ranges that Geoff gave above are fairly accurate. I'm definitely in between sizes here, but for this kind of jacket would size up for this brand if you are in a similar situation.
I would add to what emailsfh wrote. On paper I was an dead on XL, but when I tried that size on, I felt pretty constricted in the chest and also the shoulders and across the upper back with just a few layers on underneath. Now I am definitely bigger in the shoulders than average so that played a part, but I agree that you need to think size up first with this jacket.
Nice piece of kit...
- Gender: Male
- Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
I've had this for 2 years and carry it for hikes in New England winters in the Whites. It usually stays in the pack until its really cold and then it does the job - really warm down to 0F with layers and I like the wire in the hood that keeps the bill stiff. It's light and it packs down very well but lofts back up quickly. I try not to beat up the fabric but it has survived enough scrapes w rock ledges that I'm convinced its pretty tough.