I need the exercise...
BD doesn't make anything themselves. Wait until you need to order a replacement part for something of theirs... can you say "Foo loo mei Black Diamond sing". BD sucks..
Small enough to carry to the top on those shorter climbs where you might want to carry some extras like lunch, 1 inch webbing and anchor building supplies. Mostly, just a comfortable top loader that does everything it was designed for well. No daisy chain webbing down the back... no problem. Just string some cord between the tie ins and you can hang whatever you want. Two loops off the bottom... I use one for my hammer whose tether is girth hitched on my harness. Basic bolt kit and drill holder are inside the pack every climb... just in case! Still room for lunch, windbreaker, webbing, and a couple of beers to sit back and enjoy the view at the top. Great pack!
According to the size chart, you could get three Alien Offsets (used of course), that cover the six cams in the Metolius chart. If that's the case wouldn't it mean that the Aliens have a bigger head and as such would be harder! to place? Confusing as you look at the popularity of the old Aliens. Or, was that range what made them popular? If so, why doesn't someone else duplicate them. I see that Fixe is doing the standard size's but no offsets... I wouldn't pay what their asking anyway, but I did call and they don't build the offsets...go figure!
My favorite harness with the exception of the double back buckle. I still use it all the time over my two different Black Diamonds. The new BD with the speed adjust is quick to put on, just not as comfortable. My old BD is just as comfortable (its an old big wall version with 2 inch webbing) but also has a double back buckle. The Metolius is an awesome harness and would have gotten 5 stars other than the buckle.
I really like this ascender. It has different teeth than a Tiblock which don't seem as though their as aggressive on the rope. They are so small that you can carry a set in your pocket or attached to a couple of carabiner for emergency use. These and a couple of good sewn runners are perfect for moving around on your rope if you get stuck. Just their small size makes them a go everywhere item which means that you won't be pulling them from your rack because their to big...
I just bought the model down from this one as I couldn't see any difference. Both have the same load ratings as well as the crappy double back buckle. Why 5 star? It is just plain comfortable. That with the 10 KN loops and 12 KN haul loop and I think its perfect with the exception of the fastening system... again, then why 5 star instead of 4... it really is comfortable. I'm 5' 10" and weigh about 210. It feels as comfortable as my old BD big wall harness. That big wall rig is twice as wide. Yea.. it was a hard decision but with comfort like this I can put up with the old, antiquated buckle... but it was almost a 4 star non the less.
And it's awesome comfortable... but please Metolius, add some newer style buckles. I love the harness... I even use it over my new BD which is a quick adjust... but I don't like the double it back over buckle when there's way better technology out there. I gave it a five star as it is just plain comfortable and has high load loops. If I grab my BD just once due to the fastening system I'm revising this to 4 stars... but that comfort.... I'm sure its become my main go to harness..
I've since dropped the ascender out and kept the kleimheist knot in. The grigri has proven reliable. Notice I've taped the grigri so that it can't shift on the carabiner and cross load. I test my self belay set ups by jumping off the back of my truck which I back up to the rock. I also use an ATC for self belay (pic's there too) but I like the ease of lowering off with the grigri more. I have more confidence in the ATC at the moment as it doesn't need to be taped or held into any specific position to catch you... I really like them both.
I love this thing. It has endless capabilities and is a solid and secure platform for belay (either self,top rope, or seconds from anchor) and finds a lot of use on my rack.
I use this setup for self belay. A prusik in case of a failure, and it works great. Just hard to lower with my 250 lbs on it. I have since hooked a nice lanyard for that issue.
This is set for a two rope rappel...
A lot! If I had the dough, all my nuts would be DMM.
He wouldn't need equipment if he was free soloing.. but hey John.. take my advice. And that is to do what Jacob said and climb with some good climbers first. Then climb with some climbers that have soloed next. Then go out and do it yourself. I'm a pretty new climber myself. I do solo, but not until I had climbed with a 40 plus year climber first. And. Make sure you get taught some solo stuff and do it with someone before going it alone. Not to hard, just a lot of subtle rope, protection, and mental stuff you will need to get a hold of before doing it alone. Just being jammed up mid rope from an overhang can be a life challenge... climb with someone first. And PS> This is my favorite biner. I love the straight gate and have ten of them. I would like another ten... but! Girlfriend needs a new pair of glass's. I've put them off so she can't get a read on my climbing envoice's.. I know she's going to kiss my ass goodbye when she can see again....
I just started aid climbing and I love these things. I have a set of old tech friends as well as a set of C4's. I'm covered for most any crack size but I will be buying another set of these for the really little cracks. The area I climb most is small cracks and a second set of these will round out my rack just right. I've actually hung off the grey one.... these are bomber. I am going to try the small Metolius before my next purchase though.. not because I don't like the C3's, I just have heard that Metolius builds their stuff here in the US and that has been gaining some importance with me and the way I feel about Global Corporations and how bad they have F'd up our economy and enviornment. But I do have a feeling that these are going to be hard to beat..
I keep most my equipment on this sling when I'm not wearing it. You aren't limited to clipping just on the formed loops. You can clip on the sling behind them, or in between them, or at either end of them. I have a hell of a lot of weight on mine when I'm not climbing. I pick the whole thing up and kind of layer it into my pack for storage in between climbs. I have been getting more cams and am about to start bagging them separately to avoid messing them up and banging them into all the other gear. I just have to say that this gear sling is awesome. I do a lot of short practice aid climbs and the loops really help out my organization of pro. I also like the single shoulder model so that I can switch it over to my other shoulder if I wish to lighten up the side it's on. Just a great sling.
Hi Ryan. You should never at any time be off anchor while anywhere on the face or edge of a climb. If your on the rope, your on anchor. But, at times, you will be building an anchor for your climb, getting to an anchor that your partner has set above to belay you up, and many other reasons that you might have to un-clip from your climbing rope. This is where this device comes in. It does the same thing a set size nylon harness or a piece of 7mm rope tied into a loop (sling or runner)could be used. The advantage of a chained unit like this is the speed in which you can clip it off to the length best suited to what you need. A secondary use could be for tying in protection at your anchor point if you don't have enough slings, etc. Hope this helps..PS> I'm a noobe too. This will be run through your harness just like your rope in most cases. I leave mine on and run the rope through right next to it. On a sport climb, if I'm soloing, Ill just pull the free end of my daisy and clip to some pro to rest. Get rested, un-clip and climb some more. Another PS.. don't solo until you can really climb. You have to have a lot of rope experience as well. You stand the chance of falling, swinging into injury's, or just plain getting stuck mid rope with no way up or down. You could hurt yourself or die quite easily.... just be careful and climb with a pro for awhile. Good luck and above all, have fun!
Just got this chain. Got two climbs (two anchor setups on the edge for a top rope) where I've used it to work off the edge setting the anchors. It is bomber handy.. also have used it on the same anchors when I transfer over to a rappel after each climb. The easy length change lets me move stuff around while I'm hanging off the edge and at 22KN I feel pretty secure. Granted, I usually have the top rope in too, but there are moments that I'll just clip this in and do my thing. I like to take slack up on my rope, let this out to full extension, and then lean out for my rappel. Once I'm secure that my rappel is solid and my right hand has control I'll reach up and disconnect the daisy... I know, you got all this down.. no big deal. I am a noobe and have just been climbing a little better that a month and a half. Can't find to many to climb with and end up solo a lot... so, I have to be a little more meticulous and slower. This daisy is a great aid and its strength helps me gain confidence at height.
I had a chance to return this but decided to keep it instead. It's a great personal tie in when on the edge working out your anchor and the price is great. My partner keeps preaching redundancy.. and if I'm not on rope, this is clipped off.
Thanks Ryan. I did some more reading and research and I agree. I think this is going to be a great redundant tie off and helpful when just approaching a new anchor to work around. It's all back to the ABC thing and you can't beat your main rope in a fall. I guess that if I run out of slings and accessory cord I might be able to integrate this into an anchor point but It's main use will still be as an extra tie in at the anchor... I'll come back and write my views of it after it gets here. I've been using an extra sling as a tie in and this will add some quick adjustability with out making up a purcell.
Great rope.... really strong outer covering and the bag it comes in is a big bonus. Stretch is great and overall its the bomb. The only questionable characteristic is that brand new it is a little stiff. Your knots will take a little work to tighten up until about you 3rd to 5th time out... new rope, whats new? Any new rope will exhibit similar traits.. Just a great rope and I found it on sale here so I liked it even more at 1/2 off. The main reason I tried it... Thanks Beal and Backcountry... I'll even buy another at full price I like it so much....
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