Good point on the 850 vs. 800 fill power.
A rough, first-order, conversion between the two is possible, assuming full loft, etc., by simply multiplying the weight of 850 fill-power down by 1.0625 to arrive at an 'equivalent' weight of 800 fill-power. (850/800=1.0625).
Thus, the 13.6 oz of 850 down in the EB is 'equivalent' to about 14.5 oz of 800 fill-power down.
Also, I got some info on the new Mountain Hardwear Nilas Jacket (850 fill-power):
weight fill weight
22.25oz 7.6 oz (~8.1oz 800 fill-power equivalent)
So, I've been trying to decide between a few options for a down parka/jacket and discovered it's rather difficult to track down the down fill weights.
After finally getting them, I thought I'd post them for easier comparison by others.
product (sz. L) weight (oz.) fill weight (oz.)
MHW A0 45 20.9
Marmot 8000m 40 19.17
EB peak XV 34.6 13.6
Marmot greenland 31 10.5
From EB customer service on fill weights for the peak XV jacket
S M L XL XXL
FILL WEIGHT (OZ) 12.08 12.76 13.6 14.5 15.31
MHW A0 (source: other commenters)
Marmot 8000m (source: other commenters)
EB peak XV (source: EB rep)
marmot grnlnd (source: backcountry rep)
A close up the sizing difference
I've got a pair of these (Sole Softec Response) and a pair of Sole's Ed Viesturs Signature Edition.
Both are great (comfortable, well-fitting, etc.), but I noticed a large discrepancy in the sizing between the two styles
The men's size 11 (W13) in the softec was a full size larger than the M11/W13 in the Viesturs (see attached photo).
I was able to trim them to fit, but it's something to keep in mind.
The Viesturs insoles fit perfectly out of the box; so trimming the Softecs allowed them to fit, but if I'd needed to trim the Viesturs then the softecs might have simply been too big, despite being the same 'size'.
It looks like the Softec Ultras are almost identical to the Viestrus insoles (non-perforated base vs. perforated).
Sterling's website (http://www.sterlingrope.com/product/299074/A060Power/_/6mm_PowerCORD) lists the following for 6mm powercord strength:
MBS lbs (kN) 4,789 (21.3)
There is no mention of "7.2 kN" anywhere on the product page; so, it seems reasonable to assume the "7.2 kN" listed here at backcountry is a typo. I would go with the manufacturer's stated minimum breaking strength (MBS) of 21.3 kN.
Also, in Sterling's technical manual (available at the link listed above) they refer to the Technora® core fibers as "High Tenacity Aramid Fibers" akin to Twaron® and Kevlar®. I don't no if they're still technically "nylon" or its chemical equivalent, but it's clear they're not simply 'standard' nylon.
I hope that helps.
I chatted with a tech and they guessed the images were mislabeled. I went ahead and ordered one and they were right.
If you want the the 3-step release gate that DMM calls 'locksafe' the order the 'locksafe' from the pull-down menu. Ignore the labels on the images (they're wrong as of 12 June 2009)
The images for the 'quicklock' and 'locksafe' locking options are incorrect. DMMs website (http://www.dmmclimbing.com/products.asp?pid=3) states the 'locksafe' gates are colored green and have a 3-step release. The 'quicklocks' are colored red and have a 2-step release.
If you look at the pictures themselves you can see (on one side) that the green colored gates have and three stage release and are the actual DMM locksafe gate. However, in the images they are labeled as the quicksafe.
So, my question is, if I want the the 3-step release gate (the actual 'locksafe' according to DMM) which one do I order; the one that is labeled locksafe or the one that has a picture of the locksafe.
Another way to ask this is, did backcountry mix up the images or did they mix up the names?
Thanks for your help.