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sherbert

sherbert

The Red, the New, T-Wall... you know, those forgot

sherbert's Passions

Hiking & Camping
Running
Biking
Yoga
Climbing

sherbert's Bio

2 years in the Front Range, then moving to the midwest for love.

sherbert

sherbertwrote a review of on August 10, 2015

5 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times

These hexes are fun to use, and useful. However, I have not used any other brand or type of hexes. I debated between slung and wired hexes. Wired hexes are good for placing in deep cracks and would extend my reach (being under 5' I need every inch I can get) but I went with slung hexes to increase their positioning and camming ability. The curvature on these is almost enigmatic because no two sides are the same, and the hex is not symmetrical (BD and DMM seem symmetrical) which adds to their allure for me. They are curved to increase camming and/or rock security, and I love the different placement options. I figure that nuts are wired and can serve those purposes of wire advantages. Part of the reason I find climbing fun is the puzzle aspect. I have only led easy trad I have found these are bomber and there are so many places hexes can go, on the route, and making anchors. They are lightweight, attractive in colors, but noisy. Don't know why more people don't use hexes.

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sherbert

sherbertwrote a review of on March 31, 2015

4 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I got this "beefy" (by today's standards) 10.2mm diameter rope to sustain many falls, yet not be too heavy, so I got it in the 60m length, which seems to be the standard (and 70m are bonus). Very stretchy... this rope stretches a lot which is good for soft catches, but if you fall even on toprope you will sink down quite a bit, or take a longer fall. But overall the soft catch aspect is preferable to a jolting shock. I have used this rope... I'd say, 20x. It still feels slightly stiff, but is softening up. Doesn't really kink so feeds through my ATC and Gri-Gri quite well. Due to the stiffness, it is easy to untie, however, sometimes my backup knot loosens (aka holds a knot, but not superholds a knot). The sheath is hard-ish so not prone to fuzzing. Some spots may be starting to ever-so-slightly flatten, but no one has noticed but me. Has taken 2 or so whippers on it. The middle mark had become very faint after 20 uses, and almost blends in with dirt (although still noticible with close observation) so I got the Beal Rope marker and now the middle mark stands out swimmingly. Easy to remark once it starts fading... a cheaper alternative to bi-colored rope. Got the dry treatment but never get it wet.

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sherbertwrote a review of on February 27, 2015

4 5

Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

Felt stable at high speeds, turns and controlled easily... although it is directional, easily to ride switch stance.

10 years ago I tried snowboarding but failed due to (1) super short board they gave me, and (2) pure camber profile - these new rocker profiles are soooo much easier, edges don't catch as easily.

I took this out one day and it got a "hangnail" looking chip on the side, don't remember hitting it on anything (another snowboard was in the car during transport), so it may not be the most durable. Also, although it is beautiful, please note it is not a clear topsheet letting the wood show through, the wood is a graphic. In some ways this is bad, but in other ways this is good. They were able to make some cool color variations and striations in the wood natural wood would not have.

Video says it is for intermediate girls, but I am a beginner and did fine. Baretta is aimed at women with big feet but I have small feet - size 4.5 women's / 3 men's and was able to control it easily. Also took a size smaller than the recommended mfg weight specs (142cm instead of 145cm), although longer than "general" snowboard calculators which place me for boards at 138cm based on height for height and this board size 142cm based on weight. Did this so I could get a purple bottom but turns out board bottoms are random as pink or purple, and not based on size. Smaller board may be why it was good for my stance/feet size.

I believe a responsive board is the way to go, even for beginners, so it actually does what you want. Satisfied with this board.

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sherbert

sherbertwrote a review of on December 28, 2012

5 5

I love these. I don't use it to belay, but I use it as part of my anchor system as the violet haze is distinctive. It is super light, feels strong, and matches my quick draws in size and looks lovely against my nylon slings. I also have the yellow vaporlock biner, that I also enjoy. My question is, if these purple ones are 1g lighter, how come they are rated at a higher strength? The answer is their smaller size, not as much length to break, and not as much mass. Regardless I hope never to be close to the breaking point. I get protective of these, yet I love sharing them. No problems with screwing and locking. Locks smooth, doesn't get stuck, a beautiful shape of the spine and all the dimensions.

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sherbertwrote a review of on December 28, 2012

4 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times

Unlike the reviewer under me, no one except for me compliments my rain shell. Got it in Light Jade/Dark Jade. I like the colors and the contrast zip color. Good traction on the zip pull (silicone carpet?), not two way zip. The shell is nice & fitted, I can put it over an ordinary sweatshirty type hoody. Not sure if it will fit over a giant puffy, but I havent tried. Will fit over the smaller down insulation. I like the slim cut, it is flattering and sleek. It is also a good length for me, but I am like 5 feet so I don't know about the taller girls. I did get an XS. The material doesn't stretch. There are armpit zips which open to holes (not a mesh), and a chest pocket, but no hand pockets. As the outer-most garment (always, who would wear their rain shield under anything else?) I want somewhere to put my hands. Sure, the pockets might fill with water, but I don't know what to do with my many hands otherwise. Has a wrist velcro thing to keep it tight against water. I wore this on a drizzly day, and it kept me dry. No complaints there. I like the hood, otherwise rain would go into the neck area defeatingthe purpose of the shell. Hood section has a visor like area so water doesn't get on your face. Sleeves are a bit long (I have short arms) so I rolled it up and exposed the white inside, which got dirty. I put it in the washing machine but the dirt did not wash away from the inside material.
I wouldn't want to wear this shell by itself, against my skin. Feels like plastic impregnated fabric. But over clothes, it feels fine. Overall, I am happy with this shell esp b/c I got it on sale and will not be buying other shells.

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sherbert

sherbertwrote a review of on December 28, 2012

5 5

Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

Has all the features I wanted in a down jacket for climbing/belaying in cold weather: Down filled (600+), Hood (adjustable or elastic doesn't matter), Relatively durable shell (that 10D stuff seems so fragile), Relatively light but doesn't have to be super light, just not a traditional fashion jacket, Packs into own pocket (would settle for a separate bag, but prefer zipping into its own pocket), the more (large) pockets the better, Inside pockets (this one doesn't have a water bottle) but has a large zip pocket, Fits me more or less (not huge in the shoulders), cinchable bottom, double zip (hard to find, not even Rab has this on their current down jackets... Outdoor Research does), waist length, ... decent color on me. This has all the features. The other one that does is Outdoor Research Virtuoso, but that one is too big for me (I kept one anyway, and it has a giant inside pocket for water bottles).

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sherbert

sherbertwrote a review of on December 28, 2012

4 5

Familiarity: I returned this product before using it

The good:
Super compressible, compresses to its own pocket- no separate bag to keep track of. Pockets.. 3 pockets- 2 hand, 1 chest. Super light, high quality down that is sooo soft and warm. Yet it was super-light for weight savings and had a drawstring bottom. It was a flattering shape and has a cool hood that made me look like an awesome teletubby (it's kind of a cool look). Best of all it has a double zip for belaying or wearing a harness, and the zip was a smooth thick plastic (not the small teeth cheap traditional zips -Virtuoso has a difficult zip), and the Zin color zip was bright pink, like the gorgeous inside color.

Why I returned it:
Wish I got the black (it was cheaper here on BC as black, but I wanted Zin...) - the Zin was not flattering on me. Looked like exposed muscle. I wish they reversed the inside and outside color. There are no inside pockets. I like pockets! Yes the 10D shell is light for obsessive weight savers, but I'm not obsessive... and prefer a strong shell. I doubt 10D would be strong for climbing, never tried, but I would be afraid to rock climb in it. Heck rocks scrape up my shin skin I doubt this 10D can avoid getting scrapes, and then the down would come out. If I was using it for playing in snow around town, no problem, but the thought of snagging this on rock would be bad. I guess if you were to just belay in the jacket it is not bad, or if you put a shell over it.

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sherbert

sherbertwrote a review of on December 28, 2012

5 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times

Very comfy. Lots of pockets. Cool trampoline back (more air than the bigger Jades) to keep to prevent sweat... rigid X-stays which makes it easy to carry. 2 mesh zip hip pockets. Hipbelt feels great hugging hips and putting the weight onto my legs and off my back. Adjustable shoulder straps, load lifter, and chest strap. Front vertical pocket, a drawstring top covered by a top cap with zip on top and underneath (bigger Jades only have one on top) Has a fully separated bottom compartment, unlike bigger Jades... too small for a sleeping bag but maybe a sleep sack or other quick access things. Vertical zip quick access pocket, a horseshoe zip for accessing the main pack quickly without undoing the drawstring and top lid clips, to get something small out. Mesh pockets on the side good for water bottles and the compression keeps the water bottles secure so it doesn't fall out or rip pockets. Unlike bigger Jades, it comes with a rainfly in its own compartment. Standard hydration pocket, two loops for axes, walking pole loops. Top is not detachable like bigger Jades, and there aren't any sleeping pad hookups for the outside (like bigger jades). Comes in S and M, no XS, I use the XS in other Gregory, but this one in S feels fine. Not an adjustable back length like Osprey. Narrow profile so it's a bit lengthy, so if you have a helmet on it might be hard to look up, but not horribly restrictive. Use this for climbing, not backpacking. Haven?t had to carry all the gear plus a rope, but I think it can. Roomier than my bookbag and doesn?t feel like the zipper will burst. If I were to backpack with a tent, sleeping bag, and climbing gear I'd go w/ a bigger pack.

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sherbert

sherbertwrote a review of on December 28, 2012

5 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times

I like the look and feel of these quickdraws. For me the biners are the perfect size and shape, and weight. Not too rounded, not too giant or small. My one climbing partner has lighter draws, but I don't trust draws that feel like thin hollow aluminum or plastic. Yeah I'll carry the extra few grams to save my life or give me the confidence to climb harder (just hold off on drinking that extra sip of water). I prefer bent-gate to wire gate because it's easier to push the rope into having more surface area. I know wire has its advantages - less gate flutter, lighter, cheaper... but with less surface area to push it requires an small additional force. And the corresponding BD pack for wire is a prettier blue, so I was torn (ended up getting both, can always use more quickdraws). But my climbing partner works for UPS so he likes this color, and I have grown to like it too. It is a nice soft glowing neutral which isn't jarring against the rock, and isn't so obvious with scratches- all biners will get scratched up. The gate action is smooth, it feels strong to catch falls. It is so great and such a good value (who would buy a single quickdraw not in a pack?) my other climbing partner unbeknowest to me got this same pack. But we noticed mine was from the 2011 batch and hers was the 2012 batch, the year of manufacture is marked on the tag (for safety so you know you aren't getting brittle old stock! important for the dogbone) so we separated them at the end. Also the tag has a small white spot for the BD logo you can mark with a color to separate your gear faster. I'm gonna stick to BD for its size and shape! Like to have everything a simiar size. But for variety, get the other colors and variations such as the posiwire, hoodwire, free wire, but I think these are my favorites so will get more of these too.

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sherbert

sherbertwrote a review of on December 1, 2012

5 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times

I use 2 of these to clean... I feel safe on them, they are a nice thick & slick nylon. I like how they gave me one blue and one purple one, for variety yet it matches my purple BD nitron biner, it is like an awesome holster set i use to clip into the anchors. I use these for all sorts of things, even non climbing purposes, and I know it will hold.

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sherbert

sherbertwrote a review of on December 1, 2012

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Updated! It is July 2013. I purchased in March 2012. For the 2nd 6 months I didn't use it much because my gym doesn't allow gloves, and I got callouses so my hands aren't too sensitive.

Has a velcro closure, open fingers... I have small hands and the XS fits good, now that my fingers are swollen from climbing. Has loops for attaching to a carabiner... and it is somewhat stretchy. After a while it conforms to your hand.

It is really helpful when I have a heavy partner, thin ropes, when using a gri-gri (one hand brake) lowering, to prevent rope burn. It helps me lower faster. With an ATC I can lower w/o burns because I can use both hands, but with a gri-gri one hand has to use the release. Also great for long multi-pitch rappels.

I also use this when I coil ropes, all that rope running motion sometimes abrades my hands. So I use it to butterfly coil ropes faster.

Good stretch with leather at proper parts, to let the moisture to escape, and conform to your hand. Open fingers for dexterity.

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