I got my new shiny red petzl sama harness about 2 months ago, and put it through maybe 30 pitches outdoors, plus a little indoor climbing here and there.
what the hell was i doing wearing anything else?
I actually plunked down $120 and got a black diamond chaos but I just didn't like it; maybe it was the sizing but it either felt too big (M) or too small (S). in the process of returning it (thanks backcountry!) anyways, back to this harness.
super comfortable, feel like I'm not wearing anything. hanging belays are comfy. Love the gear loops; having those perky plastic gear loops might be nicer in some applications, but wearing a big backpack with these on also makes these seem more versatile. the rear gear loops do seem a little far back since they have those slots for the tool holders; I haven't racked up for a trad pitch yet to see how much that'll bother me. i love the front gear loops which is really all i use for sport climbing.
In terms of adjustable leg loops vs. nonadjustable, I think these nonadjustable loops are better in 95% of the climbing I do (sport, trad climbing). I haven't worn tons of leg layers for alpine or ice climbing, but for most rock climbing I can't imagine needing adjustable leg loops unless i'm wearing some penguin suit. i've worn thermals and soft shell paints in these comfortably.
Basically, this harness is relatively reasonably priced, super duper comfy, lightweight, good lookin', seems durable, great gear loops, and compresses very well.
If I had to bring one pair of shoes on a climbing trip, it would probably be these. Here's why:
These shoes are super comfy, durable, versatile on all kinds of rock, steepness. i've even worn these bouldering. the relatively flat sole has stayed stiff through many wears, and hasn't lost its camber. the rubber seems durable and stiff, which i tend to prefer in most applications. - if you like stiff shoes, you will probably like this.
these are definitely my go-to for trad climbing, i'm not a crack master but have done a few in these with good impressions.
one of the reviewers said they didn't seem to last long, which hasn't been my experience at all. some of the rand has come undone from the cowdura, but as far as i can tell that doesn't affect performance at all.
some minor drawbacks:
- price. $160, really? i got lucky and got these for $75 on sale, but i don't think i'd be able to plunk down $160.
- SO. STINKY. i have never owned such a stinky pair of shoes. i need to find a way around this if i want to keep my climbing partners.
- lacing system is somewhat tedious. These definitely take a long time to take off, I usually have to pull the laces through completely. I bought these in a "comfy" fit, i.e., they were not uncomfrotable when I first bought them and they have only stretched a little. That said, I find them comfortable enough and technical enough that I never really feel like I have to tear them off as soon as I finish a pitch, but part of that is probably also because they take so long to take on and off.
- with a flat sole, these probably won't be as good as some of the ridiculously downturned shoes that are popular these days, so if you're primarily a boulderer or love overhangs, you might want to consider something else. of course, these still are great on overhangs, they just won't be the talons that will grab onto anything as you wildly swing around.
I love this shoe. especially for limestone, as my footwork has improved, I have realized i can confidently step on almost anything, with a nice toe for pockets, a great heel for hooks. feels sensitive but relatively stiff.
love the lacing system; super fast like velcro, but with that glove-like fit of slipper. the first time i put these shoes on, i thought, "what the hell was i wearing up to now?" these shoes are comfortable enough to do multi-pitch, to send hard sport routes, and edge on nothing. there seems to be a little stretch with the shoe, but nothing bad or unexpected.
a few dislikes, though, mainly revolving around this shoe's durability:
i "save" this shoe for onsights and projects because i've noticed the sole wears fairly quickly and it quickly lost its slight down-camber. stitching in the front of the shoe has also come undone, something i've noticed on a few of my climbing partners who have the same shoe (and also love it). la sportiva seems to make excellent shoes but seem to be less than durable, compared to the five ten and scarpas i've worn.
i still haven't gotten these resoled and these are my first pair (lord knows la sportiva has me hooked on these), but if i wore these every time i went climbing, i'd go through far more shoes than my thin wallet can handle. i wouldnt trash these in the gym unless you have lotsa money to blow.
i wear this everywhere all the time. anytime i see the forecast dip a little here in south china, i've stopped packing long sleeve shirts, i just stuff this into my pack. i've taken it as a midlayer skiing and mountaineering in the sierras. i wear it out to parties. i've essentially stopped wearing a rain jacket because this is just more convenient (although it isn't actually waterproof). it packs away nicely, it's super light, it washes easily, and looks super sharp.
it's pricey, but it's really worth every penny. i've gone through enough jackets and fleeces and midlayers, i think this one is here to stay. (plus, i hear patagonia has a pretty good product guarantee)
before you buy it right now, i'd wait for this to go on sale (or buy last season's) rather than buy it full price.
does anyone know if La Sportiva is phasing these shoes out or replacing them? I can't seem to find a size 38 anywhere!!
I wear the La Sportiva Miura VS and Miuras in 38, and they both fit well (tight!), but I wore out those Miura VS way too quickly to justify dropping another $170 for shoes I use 85% in the gym.
long story short, I am considering these shoes, but am wondering whether 38 tarantula = 38 miura? does anybody else have experience sizing tarantulas/miuras?
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