I took this monster to Aconcagua and Denali - both trips this year - and it performed amazingly well. I wear a large, and am 6'2" and 195 (in reasonable shape). On Denali summit day I wore 2 base layers, a soft shell, and an Atom SV under this and was toasty warm despite very cold temps and high winds. In other words, plenty of room to layer. I suggest a compression stuff sack for this garment - it is puffy. BTW, I tried an XL and it was too big all around.I am frankly surprised that there are not more reviews of this parka here.
I think you need a double boot for those kind of altitudes. I used the Scarpa Phantom 6000 on Aconcagua and Denali (with overboot on Denali summit day,for insurance) and they performed well. As other poster said, Spantiks are good, as are Baruntse. It is all about fit.
Used the Phantom 6000, which is the same design as the Guide, on Aconcagua and Denali this year - and it's hard to tell I even used the boots more than for a hike or two. Remarkably durable, IMO. Then again, Aconcagua is mostly a trail (except for summit day) and Denali is mostly snow, but still...
Standard daily upper body kit on recent Denali trip was one base layer (sometimes two, like summit day) and a soft shell, with Atom SV over that when cold or for rest stops. Tried to avoid the "big puffy" routine for rests, and the Atom SV fit the bill most of the time, especially lower on the mountain. Very comfortable, great length, hood fit nicely over helmet. Actually wore under big puffy on summit day and was toasty warm. Love this jacket. BTW, I am 6'2", 195 trim build.
Just used these on Denali West Buttress. Fixed ropes lead up to the Buttress itself, and we also had a section of fixed line to get up around Washburn's Thumb. Starting when we did several dry runs I noticed that with heavy gloves or mitts on, it was not that easy to disengage the rope from the ascender - the release trigger did not protrude enough to get as good a grip with my thumb as I wanted. With light gloves on it was less of a problem. But since I needed these for cold temps (and plan on more trips where heaver hand wear will be required), I'll be looking for a replacement for this device. Otherwise, it worked fine.
Bought these for several trips. Worked great on Aconcagua (downright toasty on summit day, crampons all day). Taking to Denali next. Much better than my old Koflachs: lighter, more comfortable, and much less problem with liner absorbing sweat. Will take overboots to Denali but may not need. Huge fan of these boots.
I bought these pants for a trip to the Mexico volcanoes: wanted something light and breathable but that could also go the distance up high. Now they are my go-to pant, although I also use the Gamma AR for colder conditions and when real flexibility is not as critical. I wear the LT for morning walks, weekend hikes, climbing - and have even biked in them. They seem indestructible, as I have been sliding on my butt over rough surfaces in rock scrambles and have banged my knees a couple of times so hard that I broke the skin and bled - but not a thread was out of place. Almost weird, but wonderful. I'd buy another pair, but don't need them. I wear XL - a 36 pant (6'2", and 195 lb, with big legs) - about the only pants that really fit me.
I ordered these when all that was left was XL - but happily they fight fine except in the waist, which I had taken in (I am 6"2, and more or less athletic 200 lb.). But I love the pants: durable, good feel, and very functional. I bought them for a trip to climb the volcanoes in Mexico, and we leave Saturday, but I have worn them enough in preparation that I know they will be great.
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