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Mike Horan

Mike Horan

San Francisco, Tahoe, SLC and NYC.

Mike Horan's Passions

Hiking & Camping
Running
Biking
Skiing
Climbing
Surfing

Mike Horan

Mike Horanwrote a review of on December 23, 2014

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
Fit: True to size

I wear a street shoe of 9.5 and bought these in a 9.0. They stretch just enough to make them fit like a dream. I bought these while at Smith Rock (redpoint cafe) and they are perfect for that type of climbing. Stiff shoe. They've been called a Mythos killer and I think that's accurate. Not only are they stiff and comfortable, but I can edge on them like no other. Think of them like a Mythos + the Pinks and you'll get a sense of why I love these bad boys.

Complaints:

1. When you first wear them the band really digs into your achilles. The back of the shoe is abnormally high and will leave an abrasion mark. After about 15 wears that went away, so still 5 stars.

2. For my foot the toe box was perfect and I felt like I could edge on anything with my big toe. However, it doesn't achieve the same pointedness as, say, the muiras. As a bouldering shoe, it's sub-par, but that's not what the shoe is about. So still 5 stars.

For reference: I also wear a 9.0 in Moccasyms and my foot doesn't work with an Anasazi VCS.

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Mike Horan

Mike Horanwrote a review of on October 30, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times

If you're looking for a rope bag to put inside your backpack, your search is over. No other rope bag fits inside a backpacker better.

Pair this with a Miura 45 backpack and you're golden. It also fits into a Miura 35, but it won't leave you with very much extra space.

Even if you don't want to put your rope bag inside your backpack, you should still strongly consider the Haku. As people have mentioned below, the bucket style + roll top design is pretty fantastic.

If you're looking for the largest possible tarp, the Metolius Speedster and Rope Ranger both have slightly bigger tarps. But keep in mind a larger tarp means these other rope bags don't pack down as small as the Haku and I find the Haku tarp plenty big.

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Mike Horan

Mike Horanwrote a review of on October 14, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

First used these on a trip to Thailand last year. I was very impressed with how well they stood up to the elements (sand, ocean, etc). I also prefer the feel of these to other runners. They just feel great in your hands.

I girth hitch a 60 cm runner to my harness and use it as a PAS. I tried using the custom PAS products that offer multiple loop lengths, but they were too bulky. Nylon is superior to Dyneema for PAS purposes, especially when you start putting knots in it.

I use the 120 cm ones for anchors or extending anchors. If they made these in 240 cm, I'd probably buy those too.

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Mike Horan

Mike Horanwrote a review of on October 14, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
Fit: True to size

I wear this jacket almost everyday in San Francisco in temps ranging from 47-65 degrees with a fair bit of wind. I also wouldn't hesitate to use this as an apres-ski jacket in Tahoe.

That being said, I generally prefer down for more serious activities. I find my down jackets are more breathable and can handle lower temperatures.

I'm 5' 11" in socks, 155 lbs and fairly skinny for my height. The small fits perfectly. Last year's model didn't fit as well. It was too tight in the shoulders which forced me up to a medium, but the medium was too baggy in the midsection.

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Mike Horan

Mike Horanwrote a review of on October 14, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
Fit: True to size

Great (relatively) inexpensive resort pant. Kept me warm, dry and looking good in Tahoe, Mammoth and the Wasatch last year.

I'm 5'11" in socks, 155 lbs and wear a 31" in most pants. The small fit me perfectly. I don't like my pants to be super baggy. I can still fit a base layer underneath.

I also tried the Dose pant and Harbor Pant, but these fit better. Not too baggy, not super tight.

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Mike Horan

Mike Horanwrote a review of on October 14, 2013

2 5

Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

This looked good on paper but once it arrived I knew I'd never use it. The stiching takes up most of the sling making it stiff and hard to manipulate. Get the Metolius Rabbit Runner or Equalizer instead.

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Mike Horan

Mike Horanwrote a review of on October 14, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times

The Rocklock and Gridlock are my favorite belay carabiners for the BD Guide ATC. The magnetron gate on the rocklock works perfectly and feels more bomber than any other screw gate or autolocking mechanism I've used.

I still use a screwgate for my gridlock or any other carabiner (PAS, etc) where I don't want it to autolock on me whenever it's closed.

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Mike Horan

Mike Horanwrote a review of on October 14, 2013

3 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times

I love the magnetron gate and I love the gridlock, but I don't love them together. If you want a magnetron gate I'd get it on the RockLock. If you want a GridLock to avoid crossloading I'd get the screwgate version.

The screwgate gridlock isn't hard to take on and off. The trick is you clip it to your belay loop, then you give it a little tug to pull the belay loop pass the crossload-prevention piece and into place. This briefly opens the gate as the belay loop pushes past the lil nib piece, therefore you can only do this when the gate is unlocked. Hence the problem with the magnetron gate: it's locked whenever the gate is shut and you can't just tug on it to get the belay loop into place. It's possible to hold the gate open during the whole belay setup, but it's not easy and I'd be really afraid of dropping my device in the process.

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Mike Horan

Mike Horanwrote a review of on February 8, 2013

3 5

Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

Feels pretty cheap. I don't like how the ear flaps fall out. I get that you want to be able to take them out in the spring, but they should secure better when you want them in. I opted for the Holt instead which felt a little more solid.

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