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Matthew's Bio


mat3193289 wrote an answer about on May 8, 2012

The wire loop can be used as a clip in point while aid climbing to gain an extra few inches, which was not an option with the previous style camalot. That said, it should not be used as a clip in point while free climbing. The BD camalots now have a special, wider nylon sling that utilizes a frost-knot like double up across the wire loop to better distribute the load onto the wire loop. See the article titled "QC Lab - Re-slinging camalots and C3's" on the Black Diamond website for a very scientific breakdown of how this works in real world climbing scenarios.