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maip70492

maip70492 wrote a review of on July 11, 2014

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
Fit: Runs small

I've gone through three (resoled) pairs of these.

These have been my "quiver of one" shoe for the gym and the outdoors. They stick like no other. They're soft enough to be sensitive; they have enough of a power toe to give performance; and yet they can still edge some. They're comfortable enough (for me at least) to wear for a couple pitches, but don't sacrifice performance. Cracks were no problem either. They're pretty good at everything.

Major cons were (1) durability: the rubber on these shoes seems to just evaporate right off, and is prone to separating at the edge where the sole meets the toe; and (2) specificity: for any given type of climbing (steep, small edges, etc.) you can probably find a better shoe...but you'd be hard-pressed to find one as versatile.

I took close to my street size (roughly 9-9.5, took 9.5) in these and it was a hair snug, but the correct size for me.

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maip70492

maip70492 wrote a review of on October 6, 2012

4 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

...but I feel like I've outgrown it fast. They seem decent outdoors, and the XS rubber feels really sticky to me on granite--I love smearing with these outdoors. However, they really have been hampering me from hitting tiny edges in the gym, and I find myself slipping off footholds far too often with these.

They've been very durable and comfortable beginner shoes, but after a few months of climbing (basically once I hit 5.10b indoors) I feel like I've outgrown them.

I wish I had gotten half a size smaller, they definitely stretched over the months I've been wearing them, which is another issue with performance.

Overall I'd definitely buy them again as a first shoe and I'll still use them outdoors, but I'm looking for something a little stickier (like Stealth C4 rubber) for the gym.

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