Matthew L.

Matthew L.

Matthew L.

Matthew L.wrote a review of on August 11, 2016

5 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times

Used this on about 10 pitches of aid so far and really like it. Adjusts easily and tethers don't 'slip' at all while weighted. Construction is excellent as we would expect from Petzl with great care to detail and all that.

Regarding the performance of this product on aid I found it to be a much better adjustable daisy than the Yates & Metolious that I have used. I prefer this because the Evolve releases/lengthens in a smooth and predictable motion without binding at all. It's also comforting to know that you're hanging off something that is rated beyond body weight. It takes a little getting used to, but once you are this is a fast and reliable system.

One thing that you need to pay attention to is that if there's a cluster&%?$ around the orange aluminum bit you need to pay attention that another weighted biner/pro doesn't keep the tether cammed open. That being said you really should be paying attention to what you're doing while aid climbing so I don't consider this a failing of the device.

For the last climb I did, used a small locker to connect the Evolve to my aiders and used a different (big) carabiner to clip pieces with. Using the same biner for both aider and the Evolve caused the aider webbing to interfere with the rope sliding smoothly and the aluminum unit camming open smoothly when you want to lengthen the tether.

Play with it, but if you're having trouble with the aider interfering with this daisy try using separate biners and problem solved.

Highly recommended!

(0)

 

0 Comments

Matthew L.

Matthew L.wrote a review of on August 20, 2015

5 5

Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions
Fit: Runs small

These fell excellent with impeccable craftmanship as you would expect. I bought these as an all around rain/wind/snow/mountaineering pant thinking they would be just as good for rock climbing as they would for ice climbing, but when I received them found a larger flair at the lower cuff than I expected which made them feel 'baggy' at the feet if you're wearing rock shoes.

In fairness these are NOT marketed as ideal for rock climbing, and if as a (poor) college student I could afford to have one pair for lightweight rock/alpine climbing and another for mountaineering I would choose these pants for ice and winter ascents in the mountains.

5 stars for craftmanship and fitting the bill for what they are stated to be designed for, returning these for the Zeta AR to continue the Arcteryx love affair. For fit previously had the Beta SL in a medium which fit fine, but the Beta AR medium felt just a touch too snug

(0)

 

0 Comments

Matthew L.

Matthew L.wrote a review of on February 15, 2013

1 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I used this bag for 8 months in Patagonia and it SUCKS. It was comfortable down to about 20 degrees. Below that and it is miserable. This bag has its place, and if you're aware of its limitations go for it.

Loses loft quickly. Yes it will be warmer than a wet down bag but it will be colder than other synthetic bags.

It is very, very heavy and is not very warm when wet and takes longer than any other bag I've used to dry. Does not pack down small and the zippers get stuck constantly. If you can't afford a better bag this is a great value but if you have the option to spring for a better bag you won't regret it. The only upside is that a friend was giving away a L zip and I had a R zip so it's possible to zip them together for a well you know...

(0)

 

0 Comments

Matthew L.

Matthew L.wrote a review of on August 5, 2012

Exceeds expectations in harsh environments.
5 5

Over a month of nonstop rain? a 10 day blizzard with 80mph winds on a glacier? High winds and cold temps in an alpine environment? You want this jacket.

Lived in this thing for 7 months of climbing in Patagonia and never got wet. Not even once. Worth every penny. Felt like a fortress when I put it on, cinched down the hood and went to shovel or whatever.

(0)

 

0 Comments

0 Comments

Matthew L.

Matthew L.wrote a review of on August 5, 2012

DO NOT BUY THESE
1 5

Do not buy these.

Was mountaineering in Patagonia when the outer fabric delaminated from the goretex, and the zippers came unglued from the rest of the pant. So I found myself in a raging storm with negligible protection because my equipment failed. What happened was the outer fabric delaminated and I literally glued the 2 fabrics together when the same thing happened to the zippers down the leg. Thought I might have torn them myself but... happened on both sides the exact same way, in the same fashion as the delamination occurred. The tears were resultant of the gaping holes caused by this failure.

These are not suitable for alpine environments, ice climbing, mountaineering, backpacking, rock climbing... I would trust them to walk around a golf course in. Maybe.

If you are buying these to actually use them go elsewhere. Mountain Hardwear, Patagonia, OR, pretty much anything other than Arcteryx since they moved to China without adjusting their prices and letting their quality slip. Really guys???

(0)

 

Matthew L.

Matthew L.wrote a review of on February 2, 2010

5 5

Alright, so I was new to the concept of a softshell, but after talking with backcountry's (surprisingly with the quality of standard customer service online) EXTREMELY knowledgeable and helpful staff I picked up the Gamma.The night it arrived on my doorstep it was 6F and I was going out on a trailrun. I ripped the softshell out of the packaging, threw it on over my fleece and started out. First impression was fantastic. This thing breathes extraordinarily well, and handles wind fantastically.I have never been more pleased with any piece of gear that I have ever owned, nor has it performed BEYOND my expectations for it. This thing is great in the cold, looks sharp around town, and cuts the wind like no other while being way more comfortable than a hardshell. This is my go to piece since my first run with it and will eternally be in my stash when heading out to the back country.

(0)

 

0 Comments