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Dan's Bio

dinner roll

dinner roll wrote a review of on February 27, 2014

5 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times

I'm writing this because I disagree with a number of comments that other people are making. The small (.1-.3) sizes really aren't single-axle cams. The axle-centers for opposing lobes are offset in the same way as for double-axle cams (just not completely separated), which allows for a greater expansion range for a given cam angle. The difference is noticeable- the yellow .2 actually retracts to be as narrow as (officially a bit narrower than) the purple mastercam.
As far as I can tell, the only significant and objective differences between these and the mastercams are the greater expansion range and stem flexibility (especialy for horizontal placements) of the X4s. The head width for the X4s is marginally greater. The cable guards seem like a good idea. I don't know about the steel wire vs kevlar cord; it probably doesn't matter much.

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dinner roll

dinner roll wrote a review of on November 29, 2013

4 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

This helmet is as light, ventilated, and comfortable as everybody says. That being said, mine isn't holding up as well as I had hoped. I don't really care about the thin shell and consequent dents, but the foam in the back is very thin and without reinforceent, and I'm starting to see cracks throughout it; I can even feel that the back of the helmet has softened to flex in some of the more cracked up areas. I haven't treated my helmet that roughly, and it defintitely hasn't taken any hard knocks; I think the back is breaking up just from the stress of being stuffed inside my pack. I suppose that the primary protection offered by the helmet is supposed to be from the thicker foam on the top, so I'm not ready to ditch mine just yet, but for $140 I think a helmet should hold up to everyday climbing abuse.

I'm still giving this thing 4 stars because the light weight is really amazing, but be aware that it might not last through a lot of rough use.

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dinner roll

dinner roll wrote a review of on November 17, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I definitely disagree with the "itchy" comment, at least for the hoodie I got- it's as soft as silk. This hoodie is pretty much what you would expect from a high-end wool shirt. I will warn people that the material is really thin, maybe even thin by t-shirt standards. The fit is a little on the slim side, but not form-fitting. For me. it's a pretty ideal layer for temps that are just a little below my comfort zone.

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dinner roll

dinner roll wrote a review of on November 6, 2013

4 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times

I bought these intending to use them as all-around shoes, which in retrospect was probably a mistake. For edging, these are as good as anything I've used, and the rubber over the toes seems pretty nice for hand-size cracks. The main problem I have with these shoes is that, compared to my other shoes (Anasazi Mocs) the rubber is noticeably less sticky; my feet slide off of smears that would be totally solid with stealth c4 rubber. I suppose these shoes may be really great for hard, overhanging bouldering and sport routes, and maybe the slippery rubber trades off for better edge life, but I don't recommend this shoe for any climb that demands secure smearing. I've talked to other people who have the same experience.

I have a wide forefoot and the fit in these shoes seems pretty perfect. My street shoe is size 10, the 42s fit me with a snug toe curl.

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Review flagged as based on theory not experience . Click here to view.

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dinner roll

dinner roll wrote an answer about on August 7, 2012

Several: Chacos run large for there size,...

Several: Chacos run large for there size, so consider going down another half size. If you exchange them for the z/1, you can wear socks underneath while your feet break in. It's possible that your feet just don't fit chacos well; maybe the wides will work better for you; maybe you need to try other brands. Chacos don't really break in like soft-soled sandals, and 9 miles is a pretty good ways to walk in sandals that your feet aren't familiar with.

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dinner roll

dinner roll wrote a review of on August 6, 2012

5 5

I'm pretty impressed by the new MH membrain. When I ski with this jacket + goretex (standard version) pants, my body stays dry waaayyyy longer than my legs; this wasn't the case with jackets that I've owned in the past.
I'm 5'8'' 155 lbs; the medium leaves room to layer under, but still has an athletic shape. For me, the sizing seemed pretty normal.

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dinner roll

dinner roll wrote a review of on August 6, 2012

5 5

I've used Werner's fiberglass paddles with and without the bent shaft. The shogun is tougher and floats better than the fiberglass-bladed paddles. I never got used to the feel of a bent-shaft, but most people like them so considering trying both before buying.
I'm kind of shocked that BC has these on sale right now; werner products are normally pretty hard to get a discount on.

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dinner roll

dinner roll wrote a review of on August 6, 2012

4 5

I've had these for a few months and have had them out a dozen or so times. I like to use them in my creek boat because the thick cover makes a solid contact with the boat's foot braces. On the other hand, they are way to bulky for most people in playboats.
The durability is ok. Some of the rubber sole is starting to peel away on one of my booties; I might have to return it in the long run.

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dinner roll

dinner roll wrote a review of on August 6, 2012

4 5

I've owned two pairs of these and have used them a lot over the years. They are definitely warmer than bare hands, but they also weaken your grip on the paddle. If you coat your paddle shaft with sex wax, it helps a lot. Personally, I now go straight for pogies if the water is too cold for bare hands; they're warmer and they allow for a more secure grip on my paddle.

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dinner roll

dinner roll wrote a review of on July 14, 2012

5 5

I'm 5' 9'', 160 lbs and the small fits me well; just a little relaxed all around. The fit is just a bit looser than most other size smalls, but has a much longer torso. It should be great for tall and skinny people or anybody who likes a somewhat fitted shirt that doesn't show off your belly when you raise your arms.
Material is pretty standard for a polyester shirt. It doesn't fight odor quite like wool, but it doesn't attract stink either.

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dinner roll

dinner roll wrote a review of on July 8, 2012

4 5

These lasted me for about three months of aggressive use. I liked the way they looked, but had to return them when the frame broke. I've been happier with the durability of some oakleys that I've owned, but then again Oakley customer service sucks. With the Smith warranty, and BC's awesome return policy, these are probably a good choice.

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