jp27

jp27

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Justin's Passions

Camping
Sport Climbing

Justin's Bio

jp27

jp27 wrote an answer about on January 16, 2010

All beacons work on the same frequency, but over time transceivers can begin to have their frequency change. Basically there is a crystal that is inside that dictates the frequency. All transceivers have to be within a certain frequency range to be able to be sold. (I think 10-15 kHz) Pieps makes one that can check to make sure that the frequency range is adequate, no matter who makes the transceiver. That is, if I have a Pieps I can check all the people I am skiing with to be sure their transceivers, no matter who makes it. This is especially useful if you are with someone who has an older transceiver.

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jp27

jp27 wrote an answer about on August 29, 2009

They are absolutely fine for glacial hiking, but they are heavier. If you are doing short sections of near vertical ice (around 15-20 feet or so, around 50-80 degree) something like the Contact would suit your needs much better. If you are sticking mostly to big mountain with less technical terrain, I would go with the contact. I used them almost exclusively on Mt Baker and in other areas of the North Cascades.

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jp27

jp27 wrote a review of on May 11, 2009

5 5

I love these boots for warmer weather alpine climbing. I used them in the Cascades last summer, and they don't have too much wear. They were comfortable for the hike, and I trusted them enough to climb up to 5.5 sections. They don't have a ton of insulation, so I wouldn't use them on early season climbing, especially with very firm snow. They do work well with strap crampons, but they won't kick steps as well as a plastic boot. They are a great lightweight boot, and I have had to climb short sections of 75-80 degree ice with them. I wouldn't use them for more sustained steep sections though. The edging is great. I have an average to slightly wide forefoot, and a narrower heel, and they fit very well.

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jp27

jp27 wrote a review of on May 11, 2009

4 5

I use the three smallest sizes (00, 0, 1) instead of C3's. I love the light weight, and I think the trigger is a lot easier to use on such a small cam. I have big fingers, and it can be tough to place or clean small cams. The design allows cleaning by pulling on the trigger with a nut tool if needed. The cams hold well, though as with any very small cam there isn't a lot of surface area.

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jp27

jp27 wrote a review of on May 11, 2009

5 5

I have used this in the Cascades while snowcamping, and it works great. I am a 6' guy, but actually use the women's full length pad. It is slightly shorter, but weighs a little less, and is a lot warmer than the mens. I don't usually stretch out fully when sleeping, so I fit on the pad completely, and I also put the climbing rope at my feet to add warmth in case I do stretch out. It's a great pad for those who want more warmth than a foam pad can provide.

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jp27

jp27 wrote a review of on February 7, 2008

5 5

As usual BD comes out with a great product. Great solid platform for vertical ice, and maneuverable enough for glacier travel. The points perform well on all ice I have encountered, and the adjustability makes it easy to swap out on different boots. The antiballing plates perform well. I never have a problem while I watch my friends collect snow underfoot.

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