Joel U.

Joel U.

Joel U.

Joel U.wrote a review of on September 8, 2016

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
Fit: True to size
Height: 6' 2"
Weight: 175 lbs
Size Purchased: 10.5

I've been sport climbing and crack climbing for 8 years and have tried most of the shoes on the market. I have never been happy with a slipper before. Slippers have in general, felt sloppy, poor fitting and too soft for edging.
The Remora is completely different. It has a more precise, slightly narrower fit than most slippers and delivers a ton of power to the toe. The friction on the rubber is the best I've tried.

I have worn two sizes, one a full size down from my street shoe for bouldering and sport climbing, and the other a half size up from street shoe for crack climbing. When sized appropriately, these shoes are incredible for crack climbing as well. The toe profile is slim enough for thin cracks, and the high-friction rubber grabs rock hard. The extra rubber on the toe adds a bit of toe profile thickness, but the added friction makes up for that.

The Remora is quite comfortable and easy to get on with the pull-tabs.

Overall, this has become my go-to shoe for boulders, sport climbs, and cracks. I use it for everything other than very steep projects with small feet requiring a lot of toe in.
The Remora will not perform as well on really steep rock with tiny feet where a super aggressive shoe can help toe in. For this, I use a more aggressive shoe like the Redline

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Joel U.

Joel U.wrote a review of on April 11, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

First off, I have the lace-up version of these shoes, the Concept 2.0, but they are the same except for closure system.
When I got these shoes, I had been climbing in LaSportiva Miuras and loved them. While I still like those shoes, the MadRocks were a game changer, as illustrated by my project at the time. I had sent my project, a gently overhung, technical and sustained 13c with delicate footwork and foot-dependant moves and rests. When I climbed it in the Mad Rocks, it honestly felt a letter grade or two easier! I was able to put more weight on my feet and climb more efficiently in these shoes than I had in any others.
The shape and construction of the shoe focuses power into the big toe, and the downturned shape is retained through wear and resoles!
The toe rubber is also awesome for durability and toe-hooking.
Overall an excellent shoe for hard sport climbing.
Sizing Notes: I wear 11.5 or 12 street shoes, La Sportiva Miuras in 42.5 and these Mad Rocks in size 44.5

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