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jksp7674

jksp7674

jksp7674

jksp7674 wrote a review of on May 7, 2013

4 5

Yes the Houdini is great for trail running, cycling, and other activities where an ultra lightweight breathable wind jacket is desirable. However as a climbing jacket, the material isn't very abrasion/puncture resistant. You really have to be conscious of moves where the jacket may come into contact with the rock because it WILL tear. Patagonia sponsored climbers like Steve House probably take the Houdini along because they are not worried about trashing it; Patagonia will send them a free replacement. However for everyday climbers like me $100 is steep and its wiser to take use a slightly heavier but more robust piece as a workhorse jacket and save the Houdini as backup/ emergency for long routes on warmer days, belay duty, and other activities.

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jksp7674

jksp7674 wrote a review of on April 26, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I have been using these as my primary set of stoppers at Jtree for several seasons so far and could not be happier. They really come into their own on flared crack placements. Curved stoppers like BD's and Wallnuts are also good for an all purpose set of nuts, its really a matter of preference.

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jksp7674

jksp7674 wrote a review of on April 26, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

These things are so light I almost always carry a set. Since they are aluminum they are more durable than brassies but have less bite. I have climbed primarily in Jtree with them and they are perfect when the going gets thin. I've taken falls on these guys and trust my life with them.

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jksp7674

jksp7674 wrote a review of on April 26, 2013

4 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

The size, strength, and durability of these biners make them perfect for toprope master points. The rope runs smoothly through them and they inspire almost as much confidence as steel biners which are substantially heavier. They are an ok belay biner. The DMM Boa is a better choice if you want a large belay biner as its shape resists crossloading much better. I never carry these on trad routes, there are much better lighter weight options like the Attache unless you are climbing in a big group or otherwise anticipate a clusterf*&% at the belays.

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