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jer3162648

jer3162648

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Jeremy's Passions

Climbing

Jeremy's Bio

jer3162648

jer3162648 wrote a review of on May 4, 2010

5 5

Very stiff shoe, fabric doesn't flex at all making a very powerful shoe.

It excels at hard vertical to slightly over hung routes that require precise edging.

If you size a little larger they would work well for long slab work, or long routes that you need to stand on an edge for a while.

I prefer a more sensitive shoe if there is much smearing involved.

They have hard rubber and don't work the best for hard overhung bouldering.

I would say the lack of sensitivity and the hardness of the rubber that make them excel with precise edging on hard routes...make them junk for bouldering period.

Make sure you get the right tool for the job.

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jer3162648

jer3162648 wrote a review of on May 4, 2010

5 5

This is a great quality shoe, it is comfortable when sized right, but has it limitations. Contrary to that video review below, it doesn't really do everything. But, what it is and what it is for is quite exceptional.This shoe is soft through the middle and has a very lax heel. This takes pressure off the toes and make for a comfortable shoe. Durable rubber that breaks in after a few sessions.I do not agree with the "size down for power" rule. If you size down you still have a really soft shoe that gives more then you would expect.I really prefer the Pontas for those applications, no one really explains the difference between these two shoe...so here goes. They look very similar, but they are not. The pontas has more material in the middle and bottom of the foot , so the structure of the shoe is stiffer allowing to stand on edges longer. The rubber around the heel (with logo on it) is tighter putting more power to your toes. More toe rand rubber for toe hooking. Lastly the fabric of the pontas doesn't flex at all while the defy has some give, this makes them much more powerful and consistent when sizing down.That might make me sound like I don't like the defy, but I do I just want to make the point they may look the same but they are different and have different purposes.Personally my feet can't take being bound for 3 hours, I need the tight action for when I am climbing at my limit, but for the rest of the time, the Defy are great, they are comfortable for the whole day, they are soft so they help to strengthen your feet and toes. They are insanely sensitive and smear with the best of them.

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jer3162648

jer3162648 wrote an answer about on October 23, 2009

same size, assuming you got the correct size in the other one. The toe on the pontas has more rubber, so the defy will feel a little bigger simply because there is a little more relief. there. Otherwise they are the same last and only have a different liner, the pontas coton liner will not stretch at all, the defy with give a little...more a comfort thing. I personally like the pontas alot more...I don't know why you would want your shoes to stretch.

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jer3162648

jer3162648 wrote a review of on October 23, 2009

5 5

Love these shoes, on my third pair.

They are a great all around shoe, they edge, smear and toe really well. The rubber is just right, a good balance of smear-ability, sticky-ability and edge-ability. I don't care what other companies say, the stickest rubber doesn't win, sticky stuff is generally too soft and doesn't edge well.

The extra rubber on the toe, for me, puts more power down to the big toe, doesn't really add much for toe hooking.

Heel could be a little tighter, but nice and high performs well enough. I feel some space, but like I said it has never failed me.

Takes about 3-4 session to settle and get more sensitive, but after then it doesn't stretch at all. I wouldn't it stretches in the first 3-4 sessions...more a setting to your foot size.

Mine feet sweat like crazy in them...then the stink comes. I wash in sink with warm water and detergent every month, works fine.

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jer3162648

jer3162648 wrote a review of on October 23, 2009

2 5

It really suck when a company changes a shoe that really fit well.

The "new mugen" had junky rubber, so I was excited when they came out with the updated mugen tech. I loved everything about the "new", but the "tech" is so different.

Seems the Jester is the closest to my beloved mugen, but they added a stretch synthetic material. Come on, why would you do that.

So, back to the tech. They are mostly lined leather, expect on the toe where there is a rubber cap. The rubber cap doesn't stretch, and has made the toe box much tighter on the little piggies side. Toe is correct, they edge pretty well, but are not comfortable at all for me, going up a size and the toe was too loose.

Prefer evolv pontas for harder route climbing...more versatile with flat bottom and much more sensitive.

If Madrock could take the old "New Mugen" upper, and put their newest rubber, with a flat 4.5mm sole that could smear, they would have a winner.

OK ONE LAST NOTE, I CALL SHANAGANS ON 90% OF THE REVIEWS BELOW. I DON"T BELIEVE FOR 1 SECOND THEY ARE LEGITIMATE REVIEWS.

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jer3162648

jer3162648 wrote a review of on October 23, 2009

3 5

It doesn't look in the picuture, but they are a powerful down turned shoe. There is a lot of concave in the toe area similar to how sportiva solutions are.

Most of the shoe is leather, but don't be fooled, they are not going to stretch much, there fore foot is all rubber and the toe area is fully lined. They will stretch some side to side, but with 3 straps that shouldn't be in issue.

I don't like the heel as much as other mad rocks, it doesn't seem to be very deep, the back of the heel doesn't come very high up, which makes for a shallow pocket.

Now, they edge, toe like a freaking mad man. The rubber is pretty sticky too.

I wouldn't expect a downturn show to smear well, these are no exception, especially with the dual thickness bottom.

I have liked the fit of other mad rocks in the past, but the more rubber on the toe of their shoes have made the little toes mighty cramped. Which is a weird feeling, plenty of room for big toe, not for the other piggies. Would like to have sized down one, but just couldn't, traded comfort for a more powerful big toe.

Using mainly for playing around bouldering at gym.

Prefer evolv pontas for harder route climbing...more versatile with flat bottom and much more sensitive.

If Madrock could take the old "New Mugen" upper, and put their newest rubber, with a flat 4.5mm sole that could smear, they would have a winner.

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jer3162648

jer3162648 wrote a review of on July 15, 2009

5 5

Sizing from Camp-USA Site:

Sizes
XS: Waist - 58-68 cm, 23-27 in | Leg - 48-58 cm, 19-23 in
S: Waist - 65-75 cm, 25.5-29.5 in | Leg - 52-62 cm, 20.5-24.5 in
M: Waist - 72-82 cm, 28.5-32 in | Leg - 56-66 cm, 22-26 in
L: Waist - 79-89 cm, 31-35 in | Leg - 60-70 cm, 23.5-27.5 in
XL: Waist - 89-96 cm, 35-38 in | Leg - 64-74 cm, 25-29 in

I have a 30in waist, with the M (28.5-32) I have it cranked all the way down to the point the right gear loop and belay loop are awkwardly next to each other.

I got this because the ArcTyex s240 had really tight leg loops for me, so I needed adjustable leg loops. This harness other then the sizing is going to fit the bill just fine. Probably better then the s240. This has 4 gear loops and a tab for the chalk bag. S240 is bare, bare, bare. Doesn't pack as small as the S240, but the Air CR is still gets pretty small and is almost the same weight.

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