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Jason's Passions

Sport Climbing

Jason's Bio

jcl2519272

jcl2519272 wrote a review of on December 16, 2012

1 5

Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

I have the 490s. Thought a ultralight pair of 12 points could be cool. Loaded them up with the rest of the gear the night before. Pulled them out to when I hit ice. The front plastic toe harness was broken. Splinted them w/ duck tape, but never felt solid on that foot. Turned a moderate approach into a sketchy situation. I'll be returning them and I do not recommend them. Never broke a pair of Black Diamond crampons.

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jcl2519272

jcl2519272 wrote a review of on December 5, 2012

2 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I had really high hopes for these boots. I like the design, features, etc, but like other have said, the non-gusseted tongue ruins these boots. I split my year between Moab and Jackson, Wy and have used these boots in the desert and in the Tetons. Either place, dirt, sand, and other debris get all inside the shoes. I don't wear them anymore. Way too much money for an obvious oversight on Sportiva's part.

Also, I know these aren't goretex lined, but if there's any snow involved w/ your approach (i.e. Tetons) then your soaked.

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jcl2519272

jcl2519272 wrote a question about on July 3, 2011

Anyone know how these compare to the bd neve straps? I have sabretooths & I'm looking for a pair of light weight aluminum crampons for alpine rock approaches (over approach shoes), early season travel, & non technical snow/glacier climbs. These seem like they could be a little lighter & cheaper. Plus they have an extra two spikes, just in case. Also, is the listed weight w/ or w/o abs (l've seen the same number for both)? Thanks!

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jcl2519272

jcl2519272 wrote a question about on June 26, 2011

Why are there different points in the pics of the crampomatic, new classic, and new matic? Are the latter two 12 pt crampons, or not? Also, do all versions come with abs plates?

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jcl2519272

jcl2519272 wrote a review of on February 17, 2009

5 5

Like the title says, this is the best climbing rope I have ever owned. I've gone through lots of brands and sizes and this one is hands down the best. I've had it for a few months now, used it on sport, trad, a wall, and lots of laps at the Creek, and it still handles great and is showing little signs of wear. The price is a little high, but I don't regret it at all. So far, this rope seems to be wearing a lot better than previous ropes. So, the extra money spent feels like money saved on having to replace a cheaper rope.

Sometimes the details like impact force, dynamic elongation, test falls, etc get a little overwhelming when you're trying to figure it all out. This rope seems to have the best combination of numbers due to some serious technology.

If you're shopping for your first rope, then maybe a cheaper, thicker rope would be the way to go. But if you are experienced and are familiar with the nuances of climbing ropes, then I would highly suggest giving this one a try. I'm willing to bet that you will be more than satisfied. There's a reason this rope is sold out right now.

If you don't want to spend the big buck then I would suggest looking for a sale on a rope from the Sterling Marathon Series or the Beal Edlinger II. Both are nice ropes at a fair price.

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jcl2519272

jcl2519272 wrote a question about on October 31, 2008

I'm looking to get a down jacket for my gf for xmas. I've had problems with hooded jackets that fit uncomfortably if you have them zipped up all the way but do not have the hood over your head. Can anyone comment on whether this jacket has this problem or not? Also, if the hood is removed, does the jacket look just the the hoodless sub zero? Thanks.

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