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geargoddess

geargoddess

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Climbing

geargoddess

geargoddesswrote a review of on August 11, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
Fit: Runs small

I am used to the pain of breaking in shoes. I've been climbing since 2009 and have since tried many other shoes. The rockettes were a gift hence I played no hand in sizing them. I am a 7.5-8 street shoes, wear 6.5 Anasazi Lvs (but also own a 7 comfort/warm up shoes), 35.5 La Sportiva Cobras, 36 W Miura VS, and wear the rockettes at a 37 eu/ 6 US. They were amazingly tight and had to be broken in for a while but after enduring the pain of breaking them in (many corns and callouses later!) they worked amazingly well. I won 3 comps using these and send 5.12 (gym) projects with these babies easy. They are also my designated bouldering shoes. They are amazing for overhangs and the secure heel cup design is unlike any other shoe I've tried. The heel of the rockettes are amazing. They suck the ball of my heel and adhere to it like a glove giving me the most secure heel fit ever. These shoes are amazingly well designed and I am sad that Scarpa is no longer making them. The rockettes were designed by the same guy that designed the La Sportiva Testarrosas, Heinz Merriacher and you can see his hallmarks with the rockettes as with the testarrosas. Great heel fit, amazing toe box design and edging power. The rubber also lasts long. I've had mine for almost 3 years now and use them regularly (2-3 times a week) bouldering and almost as regularly for projects and hard climbs (2-3 times on a regular session) about 4 times a week and it still looks pretty new. I will probably have years of use out of it. Great design, amazing precision and the best heel fit of any climbing shoes out there. I absolutely love them!

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geargoddess

geargoddesswrote a review of on August 11, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
Fit: True to size

I've been climbing since 2009 and I've owned and tried many other shoes since then but I keep coming back to the Anasazi lvs. There is nothing out there that are quite as sticky that fit perfectly with my low volume women's feet. I climb (indoors) 4 to 5 times a week and outdoors about 3-4 times a month (in the summer). I have many shoes in my arsenal, Scarpa Rockettes (size 37) for bouldering and overhanging projects, Scarpa Vapor Vs (size 37.5) for longer outdoor/indoor lead routes, la sportiva Miura VS (size 36) for bouldering and outdoor projects, la sportiva cobra's for easy climbs, and my Sazi Lvs (size 6.5 and 7) as my all-around shoes. If I need something reliable, comfortable and super sticky I pull these babies out. They are my favorite shoes by far for most of my climbing. The Stealth rubber is the stickiest rubber I've used that I dare say, it beats vibram's edge and xs grip. You'll notice the difference when you're sticking those toes to the smallest chips. When you require shoes that are reliable, comfortable and super sticky--- the Anasazi LVs fit that bill perfectly. They don't last quite as long as vibrams but they are sticky as hell and truly worth the price. I've tried other shoes and I still go back to the sazis every time. They are just well designed and well built, worth every penny you pay for them.

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geargoddess

geargoddesswrote a review of on May 27, 2013

5 5

First off, I'm an avid climber. I climb outdoors in the summer and plastic during winter months about 3 to 5 times a week. I go through climbing shoes pretty quickly and I've tried quite a few. I wouldn't say that I'm a big Scarpa girl, but I've owned the Rockettes prior to getting the Vapor Vs. Those were my favorite shoes by far for bouldering and project climbs and they worked amazing. While both are made by the same company, the Vapor Vs is a total departure in design and performace from the Rockettes. The Rockettes were designed by Heinz Merriacher, the same guy that designed the La Sportiva Testarossas which is the most expensive (and arguably the best performing) shoe in the La Sportiva line. This meant for an all business no fun (less comfort) shoe, while the Vapor Vs are all about the comfort. These shoes are designed to be a comfortable all-arounder that performs well on plastic as well as real rock. The lorica and suede upper on these shoes are amazingly comfortable, by far the most comfortable on any shoe I've ever owned. The slight down turn is awesome for tiny foot holds and the xs grip 2 is super sticky that even a novice climber would not have an excuse but send her project.

Overall, I am very happy with these shoes. If I were to point out complaints about them, there would only be 2 things that I think could use improving. 1st is the rubbing on the back heel which may be caused by too much material on the back of the shoe; and 2) would be the sizing. I found that the sizing on the Vapor Vs were about a full size smaller than most shoes, hence I had to go for my actual shoe size and get these at a 7 U.S./38 EU. I wear a street shoe size 38- 38.5 and usually order climbing shoes tight. I wear a 5.10 anasazi LV at size 6.5, La Sportiva Miura women's vs at 36 EU, Cobras at 35.5, and the Rockettes at a size 37. The Vapor Vs fit differently from the Rockettes that I had to size up a full size from what I normally wear in Scarpa--38.

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geargoddess

geargoddesswrote a review of on November 30, 2011

5 5

I've owned a pair of LVs for over 2 years now. I climb indoors about 3 to 5 times a week and climb outdoors about twice a month and they've held up pretty well considering the abuse. The glue that holds the rubber from the rand is slightly showing some wear but other than that everything still works well. The rubber does not ware out too quickly on this pair compared to other shoes of the same category. I've used the Evolv Hera but performancewise it does not compare. I wear a size 7.5-8 U.S./ 37.5-38 eu and bought these at half size small at 7U.S. My break-in period was comfortable all in all-- and the shoes got loose by a bout 1/4 a size after about 3 weeks use. I just ordered a new pair of these in the new Lapis Teal color and got 1 full size smaller at 6.5. It'll be tighter but performance on these babies will be better for sure.

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