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Emmett's Passions

Sport Climbing

Emmett's Bio

ejl101651479

ejl101651479 wrote a review of on January 17, 2012

5 5

I've been using my Gamma LT for alpine and ice climbing over the last month in the northeast, and I'm very happy with the way it's performed. This weekend it received a nice range of conditions - hiking and snow scrambling in 5F temps on Saturday, multi pitch gully climbing and ice cragging at -10F on Sunday, and fast-paced top roping at 25F on Monday. This softshell managed my temps, sweat, wind, snow, and even running water beautifully. And it layers comfortably over my R1 hoody for a really ideal system (with 1-2 t shirts and a belay jacket).

The athletic cut is just right for layering underneath without too much excess material. Sleeve length is just right, staying just at my wrists where it belongs. The wrists have a tiny bit of stretch, but for all practical purposes are a fixed size - thankfully neither too big nor too small. The hem sits about 1" below my harness in the front and slightly lower in the back, so it doesn't interfere with anything. Collar is just tall enough to keep the wind off of my neck without restricting my head movement, even while belaying with a helmet. Pockets are completely accessible with a harness on, and will take a frozen 16cm screw just fine (be sure to cap them!). Articulation is fantastic - I haven't felt the least bit restricted even during the highest reaches. Wouldn't trade it for any other soft or hard shell, including my Alpha SV which is now collecting dust.

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ejl101651479

ejl101651479 wrote a review of on October 19, 2011

4 5

This is a really innovative biner by Petzl. It gives us a really lightweight Munter-compatible locker with a nice smooth surface for the rope to run on a standard sport/toprope belay.

But it isn't perfect. It tends to turn around very easily, meaning you'll either crossroad it or run the rope through the skinny end, with lots of unwanted friction. This is easy to recognize and address as it happens. What's harder to address is the tendency for the biner to lay "sideways" against an alpine belay device while belaying up a second, creating a ton of friction, a lot of stress on your anchor, and a general PITA. Add in some rope drag from a wandering route, and you've got yourself a recipe for some very sore hands.

But overall this biner is a huge improvement. Lightweight is the only way to go.

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ejl101651479

ejl101651479 wrote an answer about on July 5, 2011

On your right side they're exactly where you'd want them - one slightly ahead of your hip and one slightly behind. The left side is missing the front slot (due to the buckle location), which is slightly annoying if you like to clip your tools up front for raps and belays. But the rear slot is where you'd want it, symmetric with the right side.

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ejl101651479

ejl101651479 wrote an answer about on May 22, 2009

The biggest advantage is the swivel hipbelt. I own the Naos 55, and I can say that the swivel lets the pack move with you, no matter how contorted you become while scrambling over obstacles. It really feels like a part of you. The Acrux uses a conventional fixed hipbelt, so you won't get the same sense of being one with your gear. Nevertheless, I'm sure it's a fine pack.

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